Disco Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Posted June 2, 2015 I reckon I will - just to get coverage Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Disco Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Posted June 2, 2015 Need to round out the corner of the frown a little - I'll also even up the three centre parts of the vocoder. 1 Quote
Sly11[Admin] Posted June 2, 2015 Report Posted June 2, 2015 Hi Stu Here a tip to tidy up the few little runs or bleeds you have. Use Turps as it the most gentle of the thinners. Dip a toothpick in and gradually scrape the excess paint off. Remember to scrape towards the painted area, but I do suggest you wait a couple of days to make sure the paint is fully cured before you do this. It's really coming together now, keep up the good work 1 Quote
sskunky Posted June 2, 2015 Report Posted June 2, 2015 @Stuart, Get yourself a flat round tipped paint brush from an art store. It will make life easier getting the roundness to the ends on the frown and vocoder. 2 Quote
Disco Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Posted June 3, 2015 Great tip thanks mate - I got a couple of flat ones, but that makes a whole lotta sense. Quote
Disco Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Posted June 5, 2015 - looks weird without lenses though. That will be next! 2 Quote
Disco Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Posted June 5, 2015 Is there a trick to fitting the end caps on the detonator or am I being soft? Do I need to heat ten a little? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
sskunky Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 (edited) Is there a trick to fitting the end caps on the detonator or am I being soft? Do I need to heat ten a little? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk If you sand the ends of the grey tube to taper them a bit like sharpening a pencil. Then you can slip the caps on and push them in. They will be tight. I will be making a new mould for these as I have found a metal pipe 1-2mm larger. This will make the caps slip on easier. But not until I'm in my new workshop. I have plenty of mould improvements to make on a lot of the moulds. Just don't have the time or space at the mo to do it. Edited June 5, 2015 by sskunky 2 Quote
Sonnenschein Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 Looking good! How did you attach the chin straps? IIRC, they were rivited to the helmet on the originals Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 Yes, they were riveted on the originals. Quote
sskunky Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 (edited) I believe they were riveted in. Edited June 5, 2015 by sskunky Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 I believe they were just flies in.Flies? Quote
sskunky Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 (edited) Good pics Locitus! Edited June 5, 2015 by sskunky 1 Quote
Sonnenschein Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 Thanks, these were the pics I was looking for! But the were only riveted to the faceplate, so you can't seem them with the ears removed. Quote
Sonnenschein Posted June 5, 2015 Report Posted June 5, 2015 (edited) Pop rivet head on the inside, with washer. Makes sense when you rivet elastic. So there must be a washer on the other side Pop rivet head on the outside Edited June 5, 2015 by Sonnenschein Quote
Disco Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Posted June 5, 2015 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Disco Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Posted June 5, 2015 Looks familiar: helmetfront.jpg looks better with the lenses in! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Disco Posted June 15, 2015 Author Report Posted June 15, 2015 So back to it - small break due to a back injury - fun. I trimmed out the forearms - I have my reference shots but just want to see if anyone can advise - do I need to remove return edges on forearms to flush? I've left some there to sand back/trim off but just checking. 1 Quote
K@nne[TK] Posted June 15, 2015 Report Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) So back to it - small break due to a back injury - fun. I trimmed out the forearms - I have my reference shots but just want to see if anyone can advise - do I need to remove return edges on forearms to flush? I've left some there to sand back/trim off but just checking. For Centurion "no return edges on the forearms" allowed Edited June 15, 2015 by K@nne 1 Quote
sskunky Posted June 15, 2015 Report Posted June 15, 2015 Yes, remove the return edges and glue with the inner half overlapping the outer detail half. I know it looks wrong but it's actually how the original Rotj arms and thighs were glued. A recent discovery. 2 Quote
K@nne[TK] Posted June 15, 2015 Report Posted June 15, 2015 Yes, remove the return edges and glue with the inner half overlapping the outer detail half. I know it looks wrong but it's actually how the original Rotj arms and thighs were glued. A recent discovery.The same way for the shins? Glue Ing the inner ober the outer will help me with my tights Quote
sskunky Posted June 15, 2015 Report Posted June 15, 2015 Debatable on the shins. But this pic clearly shows thighs and arms glued that way. 1 Quote
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