ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 Keep the return edge on the elbow end and remove the return at the wrist. I found the forearms are just long enough so I wouldn't shorten them until you have fitted them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Breath Scott breath lol Like Russell has stated, upper return edge, lower no return edge however, I have very little return edge on the upper portion either, less chafing, but that's just me. There's quite a few ATA (or other) builders that will be chiming in on your build. Don't hesitate to ask us anything. Follow the leaders, Russell has an incredible build thread for instance, I would encourage you to check it out if you haven't already. Quote
charlesnarles Posted May 29, 2015 Author Report Posted May 29, 2015 Alrighty that's good to know I can trim it more later in case I get really buff 😂lol yeah right. It fits my arm much better than I feared, length-wise. The left fits my forearm width with 5/8" strips. Right is of course bigger, but I'll add foam or something. Yeah, my laptop has all the ATAs I could find in a favs folder (not to mention the rest of the ANH builds)...Invaluable! Thanks to all who come before. Standing on the shoulders of geniuses, right? Finishing it feels so possible now😳 I wish I were confident enough to use zapagap/kicker instead of slow stinky e6000 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 Alrighty that's good to know I can trim it more later in case I get really buff lol yeah right. It fits my arm much better than I feared, length-wise. The left fits my forearm width with 5/8" strips. Right is of course bigger, but I'll add foam or something. Yeah, my laptop has all the ATAs I could find in a favs folder (not to mention the rest of the ANH builds)...Invaluable! Thanks to all who come before. Standing on the shoulders of geniuses, right? Finishing it feels so possible now I wish I were confident enough to use zapagap/kicker instead of slow stinky e6000 Well zap a gap is nice for some things but you don't want it to be your first choice, trust me. With the right ambient temp you can continue working within 24hrs with E6000. I know zap a gap is instant gratification however, one mistake with that stuff and frustration takes on a whole new meaning. You're doing great. 1 Quote
Barcode Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 I used E6000 on my kit. I just worked on other parts during the lengthy glue drying process. I did stick to the "don't touch it for 24 hours" rule. Worked out great for me. Quote
russellr2d2[TK] Posted June 4, 2015 Report Posted June 4, 2015 Is E6000 stinky? I love the smell of E6000 in the morning! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted June 4, 2015 Report Posted June 4, 2015 Trooperbay was offering this on his facebook page lol 5 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted June 4, 2015 Report Posted June 4, 2015 Trooperbay was offering this on his facebook page lol Ah HAHAHAHA love it! Quote
Barcode Posted June 9, 2015 Report Posted June 9, 2015 Trooperbay was offering this on his facebook page lol HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAAHA!!!!!!!! 1 Quote
Tolo[TK] Posted June 9, 2015 Report Posted June 9, 2015 Trooperbay was offering this on his facebook page lol ah man!!! Amazing lolll Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk Quote
Nacho[TK] Posted June 9, 2015 Report Posted June 9, 2015 I'm little bit behind you. I just laid out my kit and did an inventory. Picking up the essentials for construction through the week (yes...some Geek Cologne of course). I'll be following this threat closely. Great job so far! 1 Quote
charlesnarles Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) lol I'm still here! Going thru an extended interview process at a dream job, so that's been my top priority. Then there's my Disney and my doopy builds and my voice changer wip etc. not to mention school and other "real" happenings.. 💩 I was scoring and snapping cover strips, so I can glue my arms once I sand them with some washable foam sanding blocks (not sure if I like them better than paper). How does one tell which way is up on the kidney plate? Or is it symmetrical/up to us like the shoulder bells? Edited July 24, 2015 by charlesnarles Quote
russellr2d2[TK] Posted July 24, 2015 Report Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) The edge with the big rolled look to it is down. I just got word today from the maker himself. The plate is upside down in this photo. You can see the big rolled looking edge that gets trimmed off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited July 24, 2015 by russellr2d2 Quote
charlesnarles Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) Thanks Rus, it didn't look like you ever got a clear answer in your thread 😅 Good to know straight from the horse's mouth. Got the kidney and butt plate trimmed to about 1/8" from the lines except for the kidney top edge. The crl shows a substantial return edge on the butt, but I thought I read to just round off the edge that is present in ATA so I need to check: slowly gaining momentum... 😎 Edited July 24, 2015 by charlesnarles Quote
charlesnarles Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) I haven't taken too much off, have I? I guess I'm wondering if the ATA butt piece has flashing that should be removed or if I should iron a true return edge that bends "in" as shown in the crl?<br> Whatever. Next piece. Edited August 27, 2015 by charlesnarles Quote
charlesnarles Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Posted September 16, 2015 Miniscule update, I sanded my 5/8" cover strips and forearms. Still adjusting the fit so they'll rest flush against each other: Quote
charlesnarles Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Posted November 15, 2015 (edited) Much trimming with scissors = ouchies on the thumb!: But I got most of the cutting out of the way (that's my kitten being scared of trick-or-treaters lol): Edited November 15, 2015 by charlesnarles Quote
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