M38 Scope build from DD resin

[=Sv3=[TK]]

I would expect the inside of a scope to be flat black, like a camera lens. The idea would be to minimise internal reflections which would cause glare and loss of contrast.

Yeah, that makes more sense!

 

That's why I asked I guess... Prevents me from doing something stupid

Edited June 11, 2015 by =Sv3=

[StormTroopa]

Fabulous post thank you so much. Ordered monocular...have scope on order. Can't wait looks fun.

[=Sv3=[TK]]

Hi there!

 

I've received my DD kit, lenses and a brand-spanking-new tube of E6000

 

I'm kind of anxious at the idea of cutting appart the scope so I have a few questions :

 

1- What tools did you use to cut it?

 

2- In what way did it help with the hollowing process? Is it mandatory in your opinion?

 

3- Does it make a difference whether it's completely hollowed or just enough so to be able to fit the lenses?

 

Thanks for the fantastic build thread!

[Squimspickle[TK]]

Amazing work. What did you use to cut the scope in three pieces. I'm wanting to copy your outstanding build. I just ordered the monocular on Amazon.

Sorry I haven't responded sooner! My blaster build has been on hold as of late. I used a thin coping saw and worked my way through. The cuts were not perfect but I was able to glue them back together and then fill the edges with plastic epoxy and sanded it down so you could no longer see the joints. I hope it's going well!  Thanks for the nice comments!

Edited July 16, 2015 by Squimspickle

[Squimspickle[TK]]

I'm trowing that out there, just a thought I had. Do you think painting the interior with chrome paint would do a cool effect?

 

What I'm thinking is that it might make it look like it was actually working, what do you think?

Chrome or brass could have been cool.  I debated on what I was going to do. When I test fit everything together the large amber lens magnified everything in the inside and made any imperfections stand out big time! So I decided to go with a flat black so that it wouldn't be noticeable. It also cut down on random reflections. If you were to hollow out the inside super smooth I'm thinking chrome or brass could look really cool!

Edited July 16, 2015 by Squimspickle

[Squimspickle[TK]]

Hi there!

 

I've received my DD kit, lenses and a brand-spanking-new tube of E6000

 

I'm kind of anxious at the idea of cutting appart the scope so I have a few questions :

 

1- What tools did you use to cut it?

 

2- In what way did it help with the hollowing process? Is it mandatory in your opinion?

 

3- Does it make a difference whether it's completely hollowed or just enough so to be able to fit the lenses?

 

Thanks for the fantastic build thread!

1- A thin coping saw

2- Cutting the ends off helped me do a more thorough job of hollowing it out.  The small lens side and the large lens side don't line up on the scope so it would be very difficult to hollow out and angle down with out the front and back pieces removed. 

3- You wouldn't have to hollow all the way through. I did it so that you could get a glimpse of light all the way through for added realism. More then likely nobody would notice unless they are inspecting it.  You could still use the lenses with it being hollowed out only an inch or so in.  Some people cut out a circle from a cd and use that on the inside to create a reflective area behind the lens.

 

Hope that helps! Thanks for the kind words!

Edited July 16, 2015 by Squimspickle

[Squimspickle[TK]]

I'm pretty sure also that the scope doesn't actually work as I guess the focal lengths etc are not correct however I am curious to know what effect looking at the scope gives.

 

I have seen other methods where circular sections of CDs are placed within the scope.

 

Both methods are very interesting.

 

In any event it is great work.

I was also excited to see how it would work but it's just blurry and you mostly see a glimpse of light and an upside down blurry image.  The lenses on the scope don't line up so the smaller lens is actually lower so you only see the top of it. I assume that the real scope has a series of mirrors in it to redirect the image so it's right side up and clear.  Thank's for the kind words!

[=Sv3=[TK]]

Thanks for your response

 

In retrospect, would you say that hollowing the scope completely is worth it? From the sound of it, it looks like it doesn't do much, so maybe I'd go with only hollowing a small portion of it to fit the lenses...

[Squimspickle[TK]]

On 7/16/2015 at 10:25 PM, =Sv3= said:

Thanks for your response

 

In retrospect, would you say that hollowing the scope completely is worth it? From the sound of it, it looks like it doesn't do much, so maybe I'd go with only hollowing a small portion of it to fit the lenses...

No you wouldn't have to do it.  

 

Pros

- scope weighs less

- light passes through for added realism

- It gave me a sense of accomplishment.  I decided to give it a shot and it worked

 

Cons

- none

 

I did a Hasbro mod where I used the CD method to reflect light back out so you can't actually see through and that looks pretty cool too.  So I have gone both routes and am pleased with both results.  If you feel the urge to try then go for it!  If not then there is plenty of other ways to do it.  I hope I inspire people to do cool and fun things with their builds which will in turn inspire me to do fun things with mine.  Below is a pic of my Hasbro mods scope with the CD method.  I added a reticule to that one.  Have fun with whatever route you take.

 

[Squimspickle[TK]]

I finally got back to my build after this past summer.  Here are some pics of my finished ANH Blaster! I just need to fill/paint the screws in the folding stock. Oh yeah, and add some modded resin power cylinders.

[Thrawn's guard]

Aaron - Very nice work.

 

Due to your hard work you now have a fantastic and individual E11 blaster.

 

I look forward to seeing what you do with your power cylinders.

Edited October 22, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

[Squimspickle[TK]]

Finally added some Power Cylinders!  I ordered some 3D printed ones from here:

Shapeways 3D printed Power Cylinders

You can't beat the $15 price. I know they aren't completely accurate because the 3 transistors don't go through the back of the bracket. However, measurement and detail wise they are very accurate. I added some parachute cord, little plastic pieces and wire to the back of the cylinder bracket like T-Jay did here: 

T-Jay's more accurate Power Cylinders How To

I painted, weathered it and added a little rust looking effect. I'm really happy with how it turned out.

 

Ok so now I can apply for EIB!

[charlesnarles]

Looks great <br>

I got those power cylinders too and FYI they're a perfect use for the 3 mock fuses (aluminum rods) from T-Jay's kits. I haven't finished my mod, but it's an easy and cheap combo that has great potential imho. Keep up the good work!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Aaron, your power cylinders are on that same high level as your scope modification was. Absolutely outstanding!

 

I really like the way you painted and weathered in those last two pictures. Makes everything looking so real. Would you mind to let us know, what paint and technique you used?

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Looks great Aaron. Cylinders came up a treat. Only constructive criticism I could offer, is that the clearing strips on your bolt don't line up (between the fixed doopy section and your custom rear section) and stood out to me a bit.

 

Love the weathering though. Fantastic work.

[Squimspickle[TK]]

Looks great Aaron. Cylinders came up a treat. Only constructive criticism I could offer, is that the clearing strips on your bolt don't line up (between the fixed doopy section and your custom rear section) and stood out to me a bit.

 

Love the weathering though. Fantastic work.

 

Thanks for the feedback Ian. I'll see if I can do anything about that. Much appreciated.

Edited January 12, 2016 by Squimspickle

[Squimspickle[TK]]

On 1/12/2016 at 5:08 PM, T-Jay said:

Aaron, your power cylinders are on that same high level as your scope modification was. Absolutely outstanding!

 

I really like the way you painted and weathered in those last two pictures. Makes everything looking so real. Would you mind to let us know, what paint and technique you used?

Thanks Tino, I referenced your build a lot. I spray paint with a satin finish black.  Then I use a combination of Tamiya's Weathering Master Kit C and Sharpie Metallic Silver pen. After that I spray (lightly) the whole thing with a Clear Satin Urethane finish.  Sometimes after I seal it with the Urethane, you will lose a little detail from the Weathering kit. So after it dries a will go back in and do another round of weathering and then another light Urethane spray. 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Hey Aaron. Could you clarify that technique just one more time? LOL

[Squimspickle[TK]]

Hey Aaron. Could you clarify that technique just one more time? LOL

I know right!?  I hit the "post" button a few times because everything was lagging and then it posted every hit! lol!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Thanks for your words, Aaron and for sharing your way to weather the build. I expected something like this and had just recently saw a video on how to use these Tamiya kits. Awesome stuff.

 

As I understood it, this "powder" does not last long unless being covered with a clear protective coat, that blows away some of the powder when sprayed on, correct?

 

If so, did you ever try to add the powder right into the black color, while this is still drying?

[Squimspickle[TK]]

Thanks for your words, Aaron and for sharing your way to weather the build. I expected something like this and had just recently saw a video on how to use these Tamiya kits. Awesome stuff.

 

As I understood it, this "powder" does not last long unless being covered with a clear protective coat, that blows away some of the powder when sprayed on, correct?

 

If so, did you ever try to add the powder right into the black color, while this is still drying?

Yes, some of the powder can wipe off. I noticed if I over did it on my first coat of sealant that some of the powder also disappears or fades.  So if/when that happened I would go back in and do it in layers again.  I have added the rust to the sealant when it is still a little tacky and it has adhered itself nicely.  It also looks more realistic because the rust wouldn't have a satin finish. The rust powder settles into cracks and grooves the areas that you will never end up touching or wiping away. On other parts of my blaster I did some drybrusing with Testors silver.  These were larger areas where I didn't want to work with the powders.  I used truck bed liner on the main body of the blaster so I could get a little texture. I was pleased with the results of that.

[T-Jay[TK]]

Sounds good, I am convinced. Just ordered something "slightly different" to use in my own build in a few weeks...

[Lichtbringer]

Sounds good, I am convinced. Just ordered something "slightly different" to use in my own build in a few weeks...

 

Künstlerkreide?

 

Nutze ich seit vielen Jahren zum altern von Props, aber vor allem im Modellbau.

[Pyrates[TK]]

That's mint - great job and awesome thread!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Künstlerkreide?

 

Nutze ich seit vielen Jahren zum altern von Props, aber vor allem im Modellbau.

 

No artist chalk, nope. Something different. Will test it in my build when getting there an then post it (in case that works...)