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Posted (edited)

Wow, there's a lot of great discussion here! I wonder if it would be good to stay on the topic of trooping issues since this is spreading to every aspect of the armor. I and others have started build threads in that area and I'd assume we'll have topics on gaskets, boots, greeblies, etc as people discuss alternatives. From seeing what happened in the TFA forum, this will quickly become a very long and hard to use thread if it goes everywhere. ;) Just my input. Like I said, great discussions!

 

To answer the original post, I can concur with the following.

 

1) The rubber gaskets are very tough to get in and out of and yes, mine were fraying where the abs rubbed them on the thighs and in the armpits. I suspect a fabric version would be much more flexible and less tight.

 

2) Not being able to remove your own helmet is not great. I'm hoping the gasket change fixes this.

 

3) The knees are a problem, but for me (at 5' 10"), that's probably just attaching them more securely than velcro. I know one trooper who just glued the velcro to itself and that's what I'd likely do if I stay with the rubber gaskets.

 

4) The helmet only stunk for a short bit, but I velcro'd two squirrel fans to the face and it worked great. I also added a microphone. By the way, you can easily make one of these yourself for very cheap so you don't need to wait for someone to sell them. I made two kits for $16 through Amazon.

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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  • Like 2
Posted

What was the biggest challenge Paul?

 

For the build? I think the consensus was the thermal detonator and the gaskets.

 

For mobility, mine was perfectly fine but then again I had the fabric gaskets made by long time member TK4205.

  • Like 2
Posted

We're working on making cloth gaskets.

 

The rubber ones were the only main issue we had.

 

We solved the bucket fitting issue once we removed the circular crown pad that's at the very top of the bucket.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Hello Mark!

 

The shoulder gaskets were the biggest issue as far as flexability was concerned. Mark helped me suit up the first day on Thursday and let me tell you putting it all on the first time took a long time! I wore my suit for about 6 hours each day for 4 days. With each day I modifed the strapping and the gaskets to make it much more comfortable to wear. I am 5'8" and 173 pounds and the armor fit me pretty good.

 

post-16248-0-34320500-1430256504_thumb.jpgpost-16248-0-50071300-1430256529_thumb.jpgpost-16248-0-41262600-1430256577_thumb.jpgpost-16248-0-97502000-1430256615_thumb.jpgpost-16248-0-81065100-1430256655_thumb.jpgpost-16248-0-29136800-1430256698_thumb.jpg

Edited by TK265
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

The first three are at CELEBRATION ANAHEIM the second three are from C2E2 in Chicago last weekend.

For height comparison:

Ted is 5'11" and I am 5'8".

Edited by TK265
Posted

It was great helping you out that day Javier!!

Posted (edited)

Just to let you know, boots are done (pics were taked just out of the lasts, need to clean, paint and more)

 

-----------------

 

Gio

Edited by gmrhodes13
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  • Like 4
Posted

Trooping this event daily in the TFA was an amazing and painful experience. It required a LOT of hotel room breaks to modify. 

 

 

In that respect, the rubber was the biggest limitation both in length and mobility. Clint, I had used Zap to put the Velcro on the gaskets and it worked amazing; prevented the knee caps from rotating around and popping out at the joints.

 

 

I finally ended up making a garter system to hold the knee gaskets from slipping down with the weight of the entire extremities only attached to the belt. I did leave the extremity parts all assemble together as you did and slipped everything on in sections, i.e. arms and legs. 

 

 

I suffered most at the wrists. The plastic dug in around the inside with the gasket weight and restriction. I fixed this at home when I had more foam. At the SWA I had to use rolled socks. LOL.

 

I was plagued by gasket dandruff everywhere! It came out from the armpits, elbows and knees.

 

 

Lastly, and another limitation of the back plate shoulder gasket combo, was the cracking that occurred at the shoulder bell area. One literally has to bend the back plate around the arms/chest/shoulder to get it into place and that places a lot of stress on the glue and bondo.

 

 

Likewise one of my boxes also cracked at seam from the clamshell design and stress of getting in and out.

 

 

Posted

 

Clint, I had used Zap to put the Velcro on the gaskets and it worked amazing.

 

 

 

George, I'm not sure if this is exactly what you mean, but today I actually Zap-a-gapped the gasket velcro to the thigh velcro so that it can't come off. Walking was much better today! ;)

Posted

George, I'm not sure if this is exactly what you mean, but today I actually Zap-a-gapped the gasket velcro to the thigh velcro so that it can't come off. Walking was much better today! ;)

OH! I found that using the Clear 3M Dual Lock Velcro combined with industrial made a really secure connection.

 

Is that going to come off with the new alt. gaskets you were thinking of getting?

Posted (edited)
On 4/29/2015 at 5:24 AM, TK265 said:

Hello Mark!

 

The shoulder gaskets were the biggest issue as far as flexability was concerned. Mark helped me suit up the first day on Thursday and let me tell you putting it all on the first time took a long time! I wore my suit for about 6 hours each day for 4 days. With each day I modifed the strapping and the gaskets to make it much more comfortable to wear. I am 5'8" and 173 pounds and the armor fit me pretty good.

 

----------------

 

Sexy!

Edited by gmrhodes13
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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 5/1/2015 at 11:58 AM, crow62 said:

Just to let you know, boots are done (pics were taked just out of the lasts, need to clean, paint and more)

 

---------------

 

Gio

Do the movie boots have zippers?  I don't want to have to buy another set for eventual approval.

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Posted (edited)

This boots  pic close up is from the Armors used in the movie

 

TK

 

--------------

 

Flametrooper and Finn uses the same boot (Finn added a leather portion in the instep)

 

Gio

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Posted

Are you going to make this question in all my posts? I answered in my sales thread that  I don´t not use injected soles for this model, I use rubber sole and eva for cushion, the accurate term is relative, by example in the TCW boot, I made 100% accurate in the beginning, this is 9 strips horizontally in the sole, in ergonomy mostly of the weight in the human body is in the talon, so the back 2 strips tear easily in the trooping work, so I decided to redesign and make a heel instead the strips in the talon section, about my artisan sole instead the used by the movie makers or anovos is just criteria, if all the boots for level 2 or 3 have the shape, the dimensions the materials may be leather or like leather, in this case may be injected soles or rubber/eva soles, I dont see the problem, sorry if I am disturbing the anovos monopoly but this is my reading about this, is good people have options to decide, I dont want to be the only, just an option more.

Posted (edited)

Are you going to make this question in all my posts? I answered in my sales thread that  I don´t not use injected soles for this model, I use rubber sole and eva for cushion, the accurate term is relative, by example in the TCW boot, I made 100% accurate in the beginning, this is 9 strips horizontally in the sole, in ergonomy mostly of the weight in the human body is in the talon, so the back 2 strips tear easily in the trooping work, so I decided to redesign and make a heel instead the strips in the talon section, about my artisan sole instead the used by the movie makers or anovos is just criteria, if all the boots for level 2 or 3 have the shape, the dimensions the materials may be leather or like leather, in this case may be injected soles or rubber/eva soles, I dont see the problem, sorry if I am disturbing the anovos monopoly but this is my reading about this, is good people have options to decide, I dont want to be the only, just an option more.

 

I asked the question until you answered it. And I want everyone who is purchasing these from you that they are NOT screen accurate. You should disclose that in your sale thread as there is significant evidence that the sole are in fact ribbed. I care not about any monopoly. They have a license to produce star wars product that costs hundreds of thousands of dollars. They are not just trying to be the first one to offer something (inaccurate) and bank on sales.

 

AND...

 

I want to buy an "accurate" set of boots!

Edited by TK6682
  • Like 3
Posted

I asked the question until you answered it. And I want everyone who is purchasing these from you that they are NOT screen accurate. You should disclose that in your sale thread as there is significant evidence that the sole are in fact ribbed. I care not about any monopoly. They have a license to produce star wars product that costs hundreds of thousands of dollars. They are not just trying to be the first one to offer something (inaccurate) and bank on sales.

 

AND...

 

I want to buy an "accurate" set of boots!

OK, I respect your criterion but is not the only, this is a group and the CRL will be made by a group not by a single person. If you think my boots dont fill your expectatives, with all respect I am sorry

Posted

This is a valid point and this is the proper spot to debate it. 

 

Both sides have merit, this is the first of likely many options to be offered.

 

The other, buyers should know of the exact accuracy of the product.

  • Like 1
Posted

Looking at those pics of the kidney and ab plates....are folk like me who have a bit of a belly going to run into issues? If I were to try and get them to sit as nicely as they look in that pic...my chest plate would need to be about 4 inches in front of my body to maintain the look.

Yes. If your gut exceeds your chest, if your hips exceed your guy, you will need a massive rear shim or a very large corset attachment. The chest plate itself is also sculpted to fit a certain way.
Posted

Looking at those pics of the kidney and ab plates....are folk like me who have a bit of a belly going to run into issues? If I were to try and get them to sit as nicely as they look in that pic...my chest plate would need to be about 4 inches in front of my body to maintain the look.

Yes. If your gut exceeds your chest, if your hips exceed your guy, you will need a massive rear shim or a very large corset attachment. The chest plate itself is also sculpted to fit a certain way.
  • Like 1
Posted

Yes. If your gut exceeds your chest, if your hips exceed your guy, you will need a massive rear shim or a very large corset attachment. The chest plate itself is also sculpted to fit a certain way.

AND a personal trainer. ;-)

  • Like 1
Posted

On the gut question, it was said that you can't have a waist bigger than 38 inches or you would need to mod.. however, I was at 41 inch waist when I checked and needed only about an inch of a shim (I was actually able to fit it without the shim, but it would be while holding my breath, and it wouldn't be comfortable). However, there's a line in the middle of the back that you can cut in half and that could act as a corset (mine is held together with velcro straps, but there's others who actually have a strapping system with laces for example), the detonator part goes over the entire length of that line, so you wouldn't see it, unless your belly is significant larger than this and the gap would exceed the width of the detonator. 
 

The only problem is, indeed, the chest plate. I have a good feeling that most people who have a little bit of a gap between the chest plate and the back plate (which is supposed to sit flush) is created by having a belly slightly too big. I hope to find a solution for this still (besides losing weight! lol), because I hate the look of it. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Re Abplate: Interesting.

To me another facet of costume engineering for the TFA TK are the chest-shoulder-back proportions. For some broad-shouldered folk the seamless back/curved shoulders need to be wide enough to allow movement and stay in proportion. The same is true as well for the smaller framed folk where the chest-back-shoulders could exceed the actual shoulders of the wearer. Since the back plate has a detailed proportional feature, it doesn't seem as simple as shimming/trimming the back to fit the wearer. Ultimately, those on the extremes of broad/narrow shoulders might require a proportional sculpt to fit correctly.

hmmmm.....  -krista :atat:

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