AP Armour with ANH Centurion as Goal - Build Thread

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

Just to keep adding to my actual build progress (I won't bore people with all the ordering and searching I've done regarding pieces, tools and materials until they come in or are in use).  Today I replaced my gloves.  So for anyone reading this as a guide, I thought I would give some details.  When I ordered my AP armour there was an option to get the gloves I needed for $7.  While this is not expensive, these are Dollarama gloves (literally), and cost $2 CAD at any Dollarama.  The ones I received were size L.  I do not have tiny hands, but I'm 5'8" and large are just a little too big.  Also, to avoid "swamp hand" you are going to want cotton gloves for inside your rubber gloves.  Also available at Dollarama.  Even with the cotton gloves inside, I needed medium, not large.  The cotton gloves are one size fits all, and they fit me perfectly.  So just for reference, here is a picture of the large gloves fitting too large, and a picture of the medium gloves on, with the cotton gloves inside.  You can see the exact product you'll be looking for at Dollarama, in the background.

The "Large" ones that were too large . . . 

 

 

The "Medium" ones with cotton gloves inside that fit perfect . . . 

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

So yesterday I put together my bucket.  This was a fairly easy process because I ordered my kit pre-trimmed.  Now it was easy, but at first I had no idea what to do, and it was still very intimidating.  At first I didn't realize it came with screws, and I had watched several videos that all involved rivets.  In my case, all 4 holes per side were pre-drilled, and a set of 8 screws with nuts were provided.  Couldn't be easier.  So for anyone reading this who ordered the AP kit trimmed, there is absolutely no measuring that needs to be done.  Also, if your AP kit is not trimmed, there are screw "bumps" there for where to drill, so there really is no need to measure in that case either.  Your brow will line up where mine does, if you follow those drill guides.

First slide the brow trim over the front edge of the back piece.  You do not need to, in fact you should NOT, glue it at this point, as you will need to slide it back out to paint.  The only reason you want it on now is to make sure it fits in once the helmet is together.  Then, you simply make sure the back piece overlaps the front piece, screw the two small (Robertson head) screws into the front-most screw holes in the group of three.  In all cases, the nuts go on the inside.  Make it tight, but don't over-do it, as the ABS could split.  Then you place the ears on, and use the longer screws (flat head) to go through all three pieces of ABS  and screw the nuts on the inside.  Again, tight enough that the screw heads get flat, but don't over-do it.  Don't worry if the there are small gaps between the ears andthe helmet, that's okay, and were present in the originals (check out the photo reference guide, if you're concerned).  So this is what it looks like done.  I learned a couple more things along the way, because I am moving slow as molasses, and I don't regret it one bit!

 

What I learned at this stage:

• Ears can have a gap between them and the helmet.
• Some people use rivets to assemble part of their helmet, but the AP kit comes with screws for this purpose.
• Do not glue in brow trim at this stage, and in fact, some people never glue it in and always keep it held by pressure alone.  I was told something in between, just a few tack points of glue, is also a viable option, and is almost definitely what I will be doing (also on the base trim).
• On the subject of trim - The base trim that goes along the bottom of the helmet that comes with the AP kit is also a U trim, but for Centurion status you will need to acquire an S trim (double U shaped).  When adhering this trim, I was told to make it about an inch longer than you would think, and allow the pressure to hold it in.  Also, I was told to have the ends meet in the front, by the Vocoder, because that area is painted black and better hides the seam.
• Last, if you think the opening at the bottom of your helmet is too small, you may be wrong.  You put it on sideways and then rotate it!!!

[Squeaky[TK]]

for screen accuracy the S trim seam is at the back. 

not a requirement but if you want to be accurate.

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

Thanks Squeaky. Good to know. I learn so much every day, which is why I've started to literally list what I've learned at each step. I hope this proves valuable for future AP builders (and others, of course).

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Not always :

 

But i agree, most of the time the S trim seam is at the back.

 

 

And BTW Dan, very nice job you did on that helmet! You nailed the teeth trimming. Very often, they're not done square or there's still some leftover around, but not on yours.

Edited March 31, 2015 by The5thHorseman

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

I wish I could take the credit. I ordered pre-trimmed (and now that I know how much more is involved, I'm glad I did, but not next time). AP did it for me. From what I've seen so far (the pieces I've examined closely), their trim job is amazing. Highly recommend it for a first timer with so much new stuff on their plate.

[Squeaky[TK]]

good eye Germain.

i have 6 original helmet pics with the seam at the back. i wonder if this was typical for sandtrooper helmets?

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

Vocoder painted with Humbrol #85 Coal Black.  Critiques always welcome!

What I learned at this stage:

• The Humbrol paints you need are:
  85 - Coal Black Semi-Gloss Satin Enamel (All the black)
  5 - Dark Admiral Gray Gloss Enamel (ab buttons, tears and traps)
  14 - French Blue Gloss Enamel (ab buttons)
  48 - Mediterranean Blue Gloss Enamel (tube stripes)
  22 - White Semi-Gloss Enamel (rivets and other areas)
  
  Paint guide, current as of today (there is a very commonly referenced thread on here from several years ago that does not have the correct colours):
  

[usaeatt2]

This is the second time in the last week that I've seen "Mediterranean Blue" listed as the tube stripe color.

Is this a new finding? I always thought tube stripes were supposed to be Humbrol French Blue...

Edited April 3, 2015 by usaeatt2

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

This is the second time I've seen "Mediterranean Blue" listed as the tube stripe color in the last week. Is this a new finding? I always thought tube stripes were supposed to be Humbrol French Blue...

 

It's been around for quite some time now. The "French Blue" has never been certified as The color, but as a very good match. The best way to make yourself an opinion is to look at some original pictures and then make your own mix:

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

usaeatt2, all I can tell you is that the image I posted looks like it was created by the same person who created the original image (PDF) you were referring to in your original comment.  The original PDF on the thread you mentioned (and I was referring to), is 6 years old.  In that very same thread there are many comments regarding the need for an update.  Senior members of my soon-to-be (fingers crossed!) garrison told me that the colours in the image I posted, are the current ones.  The image itself even states that the tube colours are revised FROM French Blue, which it previously was.  Even more telling is that the (older) reference guide makes reference to "Midnight Blue", and calls it "Traditionally conceived of", and implies that it's acceptable, but now they know better (I guess from cleaned up images of the originals?).

 

Long story short, my go-to advisers tell me it's this, so this is what I am using, and there are a lot of factors indicating this is revised, and actually revised by the same person who made the original.

I hope that helps. 

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

So I started doing some more painting (tube stripes, teeth, ears, traps and tears), but I'll upload pics on that when I'm done.  In the meantime I decided to get some work done on my lenses.

 

I have the film that came with the kit, but I also have a welder's shield from Acklands-Grainger (I think it was this one).  I hear the material is much better so I figured I would do a quick trace of the eyes with a marker on paper, make it about half an inch bigger all round and just give 'er.  I figured tin snips would work, like the ones below, and they did, perfectly.  I also decided (at least for now) to finish the edges with hockey tape.  I might take it off later, depending on how I adhere it to the helmet.  More on that when I do it.  For now, here are my new lenses . . . 

 

 

What I learned at this stage:

• Tin snips work great for cutting welder's shield

 

[usaeatt2]

Nice work with the lenses. I did exactly the same thing to make bubble lenses; all your steps plus boil in water and form the bubbles. I came up with a really clean and secure way to mount the lenses... I'll post pictures in my build in the next day or two. No glue or tape...

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

Send me a link, I'd love to see. I can't do bubbles because I'm stunt, but I really like them like that. Its the one thing I'm jealous of hero for, haha

[usaeatt2]

Hey Dan, I'm kidding myself thinking I'll have pictures up on my build thread in the next day or two...

 

Here's what I did:  Snag several of the little nuts and screws from the ends of almost any computer cable.

Mix up some Milliput or similar epoxy putty and form "standoffs" around the perimeter of the eye.

Thread a screw into the nut, then push it into the putty.

The screw prevents the putty from filling the threads in the nut.

Use your fingers to form the putty into a nice shape around the nut and eye socket.

Let it harden a day or two, then paint to match the interior of your helmet (if necessary).

Position the lenses and mark your nuts with a Sharpie (cracks me up the things we get to say here...)

Drill the lenses.  If the holes are SLIGHTLY larger than the screws, you'll be able to fine tune the fits.

Mount the lenses.  I also painted the screw heads black and flocked the perimeter of the lenses with black Suede-Tex.

Looks super slick, but I don't have any assembled pictures since I've got a little more fiddling to do inside the helmet...

 

Edited April 5, 2015 by usaeatt2

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

That's a great idea! I'm gonna have a look tomorrow and see if I can do this. I'm an IT guy, so I have a tonne of the hardware you mentioned. Hey, did you plastidip the inside or is that paint? Send me a link to your build and I'll favourite it. I'd like to follow. No rush on what/when you post!

Edited April 5, 2015 by MechaPumpkin

[usaeatt2]

Dan, here's a link to my armor build:  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27936-first-timer-ap-armor-build-thread/

 

Unfortunately, it's only helmet stuff right now, but I've got tons of pictures for the rest.

 

I worked as a control systems engineer (kinda half  IT guy/half instrument tech) for several years and collected all kinds of goodies along the way! 

 

I keep meaning to add links to my signature, but I've never gotten around to doing it...

 

E-11 build threads:

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29140-carbon-fiber-e-11-build/

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26634-e11-power-cylinder-build/

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

So today I am going to post what I did/what happened with my tube stripes.  I am doing other painting at the same time, but I'd like some feedback on the current state of my tube stripes, so I thought I'd post.

 

To make a long story short, I followed some good advice from two different people, one of theme being Squeaky from this forum, and the other, I'm not sure is on here (Arnold, if you're here, say hi!).
 

If you purchase a tube stripes template (there is a good one available from Trooper Bay), or if you make your own (as I did), the advice from Squeaky was this . . . once you put your template in place, lightly brush it with one coat of white first to seal in the template so the colour you're using next won't bleed.  While I followed this advice, I really did NOT stick my template down very well, and I got major bleed anyway.  This is fine, because with the use of toothpicks (and later discovered nail sticks used for painting nails) and a bit of paint thinner (NOT ACETONE!!), you can really clean up a paint job, even if as horrendous as mine.  The second piece of advice was to make the template myself.  We know the stripes should start about 1 pencil's width from the ridge above the tube, so you just put down a strip of masking tape there, bordering off the top boundary.  Then you cut a bunch of curved pieces of masking tape, the right width, and lay them in a row (you'll see in the pics).  Then you place the second border of masking tape and voilà.  So without further delay, here are pics of my template, my paint jobs, my disastrous results and my clean up job . . . 

The home made template:

 

My white paint to seal the template (I used too much, and that was part of why I had so much bleed):

 

 

The first coat of blue:

 

 

Don't panic!  Yours likely won't even look this bad, so trust me when i say it can be fixed:

 

 

After cleaning up with toothpicks and nail sticks dipped in thinner and picked at/rubbed at.  Not bad eh?  Still needs some clean up, but that'll be easy:

 

 

This is what a nail stick looks like for those of you who rarely paint your nails.  The flat end was great because it rubbed really smoothly, and absorbed a good amount of paint thinner:

 

 

What I learned at this stage:

• You can make your own template and save yourself $20
• Do a first coat of white paint (very light) to seal the template to avoid bleeding.  Wait for it to dry before applying coloured coat.
• Remove template after colour coat is applied, but do not wait until dry as that will pull the paint off with the tape.  Wait about an hour or two. After that, let it dry for at least 24 hours before cleaning it up.
• Bleed WILL happen
• Use a toothpick and/or nail stick with paint thinner (NOT ACETONE!!!) to clean up your paint job.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

 

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

Lots to say and show today.  
 

First, my TK Boots arrived!  These are from TKBoots.com.  I have heard nothing but the BEST reviews of them.  They have had problems with their suppliers for the last many months (almost a year, since I have been on their waiting list since July 2014).  They finally had some "substandard" boots available, and they said they would probably be up to most people's standards, but they're perfectionists, so they insisted they be discounted.  i figured why not.  Heck, just over a year ago it was part of the Centurion CRLs to have "scuffed" boots anyway (no longer the case), so I ordered.  they look and feel great!

TK Boots . . . 

 

Next, my bodysuits arrived.  I ordered these from Pleasuresports.com here . . . http://www.pleasuresports.com/neosport-unisex-sport-skin.html A great deal at $37 USD.  The quality feels outstanding.  I'm 5' 8" and about 180 lbs and this fits just tight enough that there's no chance it'll sag anywhere.  Almost too tight, which is perfect.

 

Now the logo on the chest is going to be a problem.  I got all kinds of advice on what to do with it.  Some people suggested sharpie or fabric paints, but both of those need to be re-applied every few troops.  Others suggested a piece of fabric be attached over it.  I figured there had to be a way to remove it, so I got Googling.  It turns out the two recommended methods were acetone and goo gone (or similar).  Because I had Goo Gone and it seemed the less harsh choice (it is essentially citrus powered and has no corrosion warning on the bottle), I went with that.  I dipped that area with the decal on it in Goo Gone and just rubbed at it with my nail and thumbs and it all just came off.  It didn't come right off right away.  There was a lot of rubbing . . . but it's gone!

Next thing I did this week was finish up all my painting.  So I manually painted all my traps, tears, and ears.  I did the grey first and then just carefully did the blacks with a thin brush (including rank stripes).  As for the lines on the rear traps and tears (necessary for ANH Stunt), I made a template.  I scanned in the decals that came with my AP kit and created a PDF.  I printed and compared and it printed 1:1 perfectly.  Just in case someone else needs it, I put it up on Dropbox to download.  Here is the link https://www.dropbox.com/s/ihf6qwvxkqojbl2/APDecals.pdf?dl=0 Ieven included a ruler so you can make sure it prints out the right size for you.  Next, I cut out the traps and tears (only one of each since I could flip them over) and exacto bladed out the lines.  I used a pencil and did a rough line, then hand painted.  I also painted the ear screws white.

Template . . .



Pencil lines . . . 

 

Finished product . . .

 

Now you may have noticed that my tube stripes are even cleaner than before.  That's because I was at Sayal Electronics and I found these things that work like the toothpicks do, only extra absorbent and extra awesome.  I'm not sure if I could use them alone to clean it up, but man did they ever clean up that last bit great.  Just dipped in paint thinner (NOT ACETONE!!) and rubbed and picked at it.

 

That's my update for now.  Please leave any comments, as I am always looking for pointers.  Thanks!

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Nice job Dan.

 

Blemished or not, you can't go wrong with Totally Killer Boots. 

[Mutter]

Your helmet looks great! Looking forward to the rest of the build!

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

Really minor update.  S  trim installed.  Just posting for posterity.  Two important piece of advice I was given.  One, the Strim naturally curves one way, and you should put it on in the opposite way.  Reason being it will give it that extra bit of push TOWARDS the helmet edge once in place, rather than wanting to curl in, it is trying to curl out.  Not sure how important that is, but it makes good sense.  Second, put your S trim in place, then cut it an inch longer (picture one).  That way, when you shove that extra inch in, the S trim will theoretically stay in place without the use of adhesive.  So far it really feels like that works.  

Cut an inch longer . . . 

 

 

Forced into place . . . 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Coming along quite nicely 

[MechaPumpkin[TK]]

Next tiny update.  My Hovi mic tips arrived from Sskunky today.  They look great! Just a reminder, these are the mic tips necessary to meet Centurion guidelines.  So just so anyone following this sees the difference, I have added pictures of the AP stock mic tips (left) and Sskunky Hovi mic tips (right), so you can see the difference.  

 

Installed . . .