MechaPumpkin[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Hi Everyone, So I was going to wait until I performed a few build steps, before starting my build thread, but then I thought, where the heck do I even start? That was when I realized, my build thread might be the place for that. I ordered my AP armour in August, and received my Big Brown Box in October. Defying all laws of anticipation and self-control, I stared at that box for 6 months. I was extremely busy with work, and I decided to wait until I was truly ready to commit. I have now opened the box and, in what I can only assume is typical fashion, I have laid out all the pieces on a table, and immediately suffered from an anxiety attack. That's a lot of white shiny plastic, and I am in no way qualified to start gluing it together and punching it full of holes. That's when I realized, where better to turn than this kind, wonderful, intelligent, atypically good looking community of individuals (did I mention how virile you all appear to be?)? So here we go. So far I have the following items . . . - AP fully trimmed armour kit - Aker voice amp - Static burst module - AP gloves and holster - Resin cast blaster (pics attached) So after posting my Introduction thread, I got an overwhelming number of encouraging welcome messages and was repeatedly told, ask ask ask! So I figured, let's start my build thread. So far, after some brief back and forth with members on that thread, I have decided I am going to take this nice and slow, and my goal is a Centurion build. Why not do it right the first time, right? So, my first questions . . . 0001. (No, seriously, I think leading with 3 zeros is realistic) I have looked at the CRLs on the 501st web site, and I really don't know what the physical differences are between Hero and Stunt. I know in what context they were used (in the movies) and for what purpose they were originally created, but I don't know what physical characteristics are different when it comes to a costume build. I feel really stupid. Can someone please help me with this? 0002. What should I do first? I mean absolute first. I don't want to do anything that can't be undone, or waste a bunch of time trying to get ahead of myself. Should I wait for the first available armour party in my region (Ontario, Canada), or should I roll up my sleeves and start somewhere? That's it for now. Hope I wasn't an idiot for starting this so early. Thanks! Dan 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGDEAL[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Good luck Mate. I'll be watching religiously and picking your brain along the way! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tolo[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Diffrence between hero and stunt are the teeth on the helmet, the lense and 4 rivets to attached your holster to your canvas belt. With the AP, you get a Stunt helmet. So, I guess you will be building a stunt version armor. (Unless you want to modify your helmet) Start with what you are comfortable buy doing. I usually start with the legs and arms. While they are glueing, I start preparing my snaps. If you are using E-6000, which I suggest you use, you have a 24h window for everything to cure and dry. Be sure to use clamps and/or magnets while everything drys. Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaps[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 (edited) Go for the coolest thing of the armor, the helmet of course! I have AP and loved putting it together.... Some differences between stunt and hero are the eyes....stunt has flat lenses while hero have bubble eyes. Also, the number of teeth. Yours has the number for stunt. another difference is number of rivets holding the holster to the belt. Hero has four, stunt has two. I'd recommend starting of with the helmet but start where you feel most comfortable. I did the helmet and the worked from the shins on up. Just take your time, test fit everything. I would suggest E6000 glue. Strong but allows you to easily take pieces apart for adjustments.....since you are planning on going for advanced tactics, you will need to replace the mic tips with more accurate hovi mic tips. You can find some in the on going sales section. Also replace he lenses you got with darker lenses. Also paint the gray traps on the helmet or you can get decals, I think they are called DaveM decals from trooperbay.com Good luck....we're all here to help.... Edited March 23, 2015 by Snaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansDC[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 (edited) Dan! Congratulations on taking your fist step!Before you start, do you have all the other materials you need like E6000/CA, elastics, snaps etc? If not, you might wanna do a little more research on what else you need apart form the armour kit. If you do - then its time to get cracking! To answer your questions...0001 - Hero & Stunt - Plain and simple - HERO = Luke Skywalker or Han Solo in trooper outfits. STUNT = every other stormtrooper you see in the movie. If you put the two together they will look almost identical. But on closer inspection there are many small detailed differences mostly on the helmet. One main one are the lenses. HEROs use a bubble lens where STUNTs use just a flat one. The best way to compare s to open both CRL's on different windows on your screen and compare the bits one by one. Majority go for a stunt because its the most basic and easier of the two to build as far as sourcing correct parts. Your AP is made to be built as a stunt (although with a few mods and different parts you could easily go HERO. 0002 - My CO told me before O took the plunge to build my helmet last. His reasoning was that the helmet is the first thing everyone sees and notices, so you want it to look the best out of your whole costume. By building it last, it gives you the opportunity to practice and obtain the skills you need with working with ABS/glue etc. Normally the arms (forearms/biceps/shoulders) get built first. Make sure you go through all the tutorials available on this forum. If you are not too sure, don't glue anything down yet. Masking tape is your best friend for now and measure it all a few times before cutting it. Again if you are not sure - just ask. You've waited 6 months to even open the box, another 24 hours to get some sound advice on here is gonna reward you later on. Edited March 23, 2015 by HansDC 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechaPumpkin[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Wow, and just like that I have some great advice! Okay so some further info . . . I decided one smart thing would be to go through the tutorials on here and see what materials I might need. I also got some advice from my introduction thread on a couple cool items I should get (some carpet to work on, bins for organizing tools and hardware, and a binder to keep track of stuff). Just thought I would drop my list here in case anyone is interested. Here are the materials I believe I will need (so far) . . . - Binder - to keep and reference notes as I build - Bins for small parts - Lexan scissors, both curved and straight - E6000 Adhesive - Clamps - Spring, pump, etc. - Rivets - Snaps - No-Roll elastic - Exacto blades - Metal rulers - Non-abrasive section of carpet to work on (2' x 2' was suggested) - keeps the dust and debris in an easily cleanable space - Masking tape - if all my other costuming taught me anything, I'll need a lot, and in varying sizes - Sandpaper - Rare earth magnets for clamping - Popsicle sticks (wide and narrow) to go between clamps and material - Heat gun - Paint store stir sticks - One tutorial used them as spacers when heating and bending the belt - Nylon strapping - Adjustable measuring square - Snap setter kit - Hammer - to beat myself with at 2AM when I just realize I just glued something completely backwards - Heat shears for cutting and sealing nylon strapping - Soldering iron - for burning holes through strapping for snaps/rivets - Peg board - to lay material on to more easily burn holes with soldering iron through nylon straps I didn't see this anywhere, but I would also like to add Velcro with industrial strength adhesive to this list. In my years of costuming, nothing solved more problems more quickly than this Velcro. I found a roll in white several months ago and bought it. I have no idea if/when I can use it, but I gotta think it will come in handy.0003. Anyone have any suggestions to add to this list? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansDC[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 I think you're ready to go! Get to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 0001 - Hero & Stunt - Plain and simple - HERO = Luke Skywalker or Han Solo in trooper outfits. STUNT = every other stormtrooper you see in the movie. Pretty much wrong. The difference between Hero and Stunt isn't related to whom is wearing the armor but by the Helmet. Here are two "Hero" and they're not Luke and Han: Dan, here are two pictures to help you visualizing the differences between Stunt and Hero. On a side note, originally Hero helmets were pulled directly from white ABS while the Stunts were pulled in a khaki material and then painted white. Good luck with your build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly11[Admin] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Yes to industrial Velcro Looks like you have got everything covered. I used Velcro on my snap plates as an insurance measure, incase a snap ever broke or popped out in the field. Save the cash on the heat shears and just use a cigaret lighter on the ends of elastic and webbing material, it works just as well. Good luck with your build, and please post plenty of photos, as not only do we LOvE photos of armor, but an image will always bring more accurate feedback. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechaPumpkin[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 I'm glad my kit came with a stunt helmet, because I prefer the look of the frown. Since this isn't 1977, I can make my stunt as good quality as the Heroes, that I understood were designed for closer proximity shots and were therefore made "nicer" (I could be wrong). It's funny, and you guys may have lost perspective now after seeing so many examples, but over and over I kept thinking the main difference was the brow line and that the Stunt brow line had a white gap below the black line and the Hero did not. Now I've seen examples of the opposite and know it's not a defining feature. The amount I learn each day on this forum is incredible. Thanks again guys! Yep, I think I better get to it. First step, get whatever materials I am missing from my list. Second step, clear a really big work space. Third step, choose a piece of armour to be my first victim (gulp). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansDC[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Pretty much wrong. The difference between Hero and Stunt isn't related to whom is wearing the armor but by the Helmet. Here are two "Hero" and they're not Luke and Han: Dan, here are two pictures to help you visualizing the differences between Stunt and Hero. On a side note, originally Hero helmets were pulled directly from white ABS while the Stunts were pulled in a khaki material and then painted white. Good luck with your build! Ok post edited. Thanks for the clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaps[TK] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 will be watching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeaky[TK] Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 unless you have cut and glued ABS before i would recommend doing the parts that aren't critical for fitting first. better to get familiar and make mistake on easier parts first. i would start with the thermal detonator, belt, and drop boxes first. these are straight cuts and easy to replace if you screw up. i then did the torso because the arms and legs fit up to the torso. arms, legs, then helmet last. tape everything up first before gluing and always wear your undersuit when fitting. most importantly follow the great AP builds on this site. learn what works and from other mistakes. just my suggestions. i will see you at an armour party soon. (i hosted that last one a few months ago) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Craig Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 So watching. Can't wait until my brown box with lots of shiny white AP armour shows up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khazid[TK] Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 I also have found it helpful to look at both the EIB and Centurion applications. The photos are consistent drilling of the details, and the feedback is invaluable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearings[TK] Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Good luck! Definitely go with E6000 for your first build in case you glue something on backwards I found it helpful to look at screen references while I built as well as other EIB/Centurion builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutter Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Dan, As you have noticed, there are many, many incredibly helpful Troopers here. They all have their own opinions on the best way to approach it, what to do first and so forth. So of course, I'll add my own advice. 1 - Use E6000 as your glue. You can still take apart what you've glued a month later if need be. 2 - Research. Read other peoples build threads, read the tutorials. There's a tremendous amount of info here (perhaps too much). 3 - You're going to be overwhelmed, we all were. As you can tell, you have a lot of Troopers here who want to see you succeed. 4 - Go slow, take your time. Patience is key. 5 - Most importantly, HAVE FUN! I'm looking forward to watching your armor come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) a trimmed AP kit can be fun to work with. I am amazed and quite happy that there are SO many fine people here ready to help. I'm pretty aware of the AP kit. I've made almost 50 of em? PM me for personal advice. I also am available by phone. I have 3 AP kits on my workbench right now. I've done 14 at a time before... imagine that! Edited March 24, 2015 by TK Bondservnt 2392 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechaPumpkin[TK] Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) Next questions! 0004. I hear that ABS "glue" actually causes a chemical bond, and is not really an adhesive. So if you use too much, it will start to warp the material and cause it to warp and look bad from the other side. Is E6000 an adhesive or does it cause a chemical bond? I know too much glue is a bad idea anyhow, I was just wondering how careful I have to be with E6000. Does it eat/weaken/warp ABS in this way? 0005. Has anyone used this method for attaching straps and snaps to their armour for assembly? http://www.tonybarnett.plus.com/snaps.html Any general advice on this aspect of the build? I feel it's going to rear its head pretty early in the process, and so far I find this article makes perfect sense, but I was wondering if anyone had thoughts. 0006. My armour came with a bunch of extra ABS that I assume I can use for shims and snap plates (please correct my terminology whenever appropriate!), etc. Should I have another source for extra ABS material, or should the amount that came with my AP kit suffice? Should I use it sparingly?Thanks again! When I'm done my build, I may put together a master list of these questions and answers, so other noobs can maybe reference them at a glance. I am sure when I'm done it will be hard to remember the low level (primitive, if you will) thoughts and questions I had at this early stage. These early questions are tough to push past when you're frozen and hesitating to take the first steps. Edited March 24, 2015 by MechaPumpkin 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sylverbard[TK] Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 The extra material will be the strips on the front and back seams of your thighs forearms biceps and calves. You might need some for side shims depending on your girth. E6000 is glue. It attaches to each thing you are gluing together and sits in the middle. Abs cement is like a weld. It melts each piece and then solidifies and you've basically got one solid piece. E6000 is forgiving. Abs cement isn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechaPumpkin[TK] Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Thanks sylverbard, that definitely answers my questions re: adhering the pieces. As suspected, E6000 it is!In people's experience, given that I am not overly large, do I have to be particularly worried about conserving the ABS strips I received with my AP kit? I doubt I'll need any for side shims. I just have no clue how much material I'll need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tusken RTT Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Cut your outer cover strips only first, saving the rest for shim material. You can always use scrap pieces pieced together for the inner strips. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechaPumpkin[TK] Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Today's update. I have been to Home depot to pick up some materials. I got many tubes of E6000, peg board, lots of blue masking tape, clamps and rulers that I needed, but I also got my storage bin, as they have apparently discontinued them and they're on sale. I got a second one, in case someone else in Toronto needs one. I also know it is "THE" bin to get, so if no one needs it, I suspect I will one day . . . I also ordered these snaps from Amazon.ca . . . http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00R44J218 And I ordered an "S" trim from Trooperbay, which I understand is necessary for Centurion status . . . http://trooperbay.com/stormtrooper-helmet-neck-trim/ and also some 3/4 x 1/8" N52 rare earth magnets from Trooperbay . . . http://trooperbay.com/34-inch-x-18-inch-thick-n52-rare-earth-magnets/ That's my update for today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechaPumpkin[TK] Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 So I understand that the mic tips that come with the AP armour kit are not acceptable for Centurion status. The CRLs state, "Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips" are required, starting at Expert Infantry level. I did some research and have now ordered a set of Hovi Mic Tips from Sskunky here on the FISD forum. So anyone following this, who plans for Centurion, there you have it. Sskunky was very fast to respond to my message and extremely pleasant to deal with. Onward and upward! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutter Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Dan, 0005 - I've used snaps made with ABS and with webbing. I preferred webbing as I never had issues with them popping off. ABS have come off before. Redforce on this forum sells a packet of webbing. 0006 - Tusken RTT gives some great advice on the extra ABS material. Great score on the storage bin! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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