Khazid[TK] Posted May 4, 2015 Report Posted May 4, 2015 Dang, those ears look nice. Good job sir! Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Posted May 4, 2015 looks great, is that gloss gray? its so shiny It is Testors 1138 gray. This is one of the two gray paints recommended on the very helpful Helmet & Ab paint detail reference guide linked below. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8117-helmet-ab-paint-detail-reference-guide/?p=103308 Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Posted May 4, 2015 Yes! great job Kyle Dang, those ears look nice. Good job sir! Thanks for the feedback! Quote
Comfy Turtle Posted May 5, 2015 Report Posted May 5, 2015 It is Testors 1138 gray. This is one of the two gray paints recommended on the very helpful Helmet & Ab paint detail reference guide linked below. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8117-helmet-ab-paint-detail-reference-guide/?p=103308 of course i couldnt find that when i was at the paint store, i used testors 1163 flat maybe i can just polish it later Quote
R4ZORBL4DE Posted May 5, 2015 Report Posted May 5, 2015 of course i couldnt find that when i was at the paint store, i used testors 1163 flat maybe i can just polish it later Yea.. Flat is No Bueno ... ( since its Cinco De Mayo ) 1 Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 5, 2015 Author Report Posted May 5, 2015 of course i couldnt find that when i was at the paint store, i used testors 1163 flat maybe i can just polish it later Yeah...the s a really handy post. I'm not sure why they haven't pinned it yet. Quote
charlesnarles Posted May 6, 2015 Report Posted May 6, 2015 Looks great so far. I need to redo my ears, they look like your before pic lol. I bet that belt sander rules! I only recently got a Dremel, I was filing by hand before. Keep going! Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 6, 2015 Author Report Posted May 6, 2015 Looks great so far. I need to redo my ears, they look like your before pic lol. I bet that belt sander rules! I only recently got a Dremel, I was filing by hand before. Keep going! Thanks! That belt sander makes a huge difference! Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Posted May 8, 2015 I actually had some time to get more work done today. Before I begin with my progress I thought I'd show off the cool print I got for my work area. Today I started working on the lower leg sections. Here is the before photo The first thing to do was to measure the sides and trim the excess plastic. By this point in the build I'm starting to get the hang of it so it doesn't take as long any more. Once I got everything trimmed it was time to sand down and smooth out the return edges. Notice the Darth Vader band aid on the finger? This is what happens when your finger gets too close to a belt sander. I recommend you don't do that. Next up is to cut and glue the back strips into place. They are now drying overnight. 1 Quote
Tusken RTT Posted May 8, 2015 Report Posted May 8, 2015 Looking good; must be nice to have a workroom! I had to spread everything out on my dining room table for a couple of months! Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Posted May 8, 2015 Looking good; must be nice to have a workroom! I had to spread everything out on my dining room table for a couple of months! It's a small space but at least it's something Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Posted May 8, 2015 Okay guys and gals, I have another question for you... The abdomen piece on my ATA kit is warped pretty badly. Is this normal and how do I fix it? Below are a few photos that hopefully show what I'm talking about. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 9, 2015 Report Posted May 9, 2015 That's how it's made I wouldn't try to fix that. 1 Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Posted May 9, 2015 That's how it's made I wouldn't try to fix that. Thank you sir! I'll leave it alone. 1 Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 9, 2015 Author Report Posted May 9, 2015 Yup, .. Mine is the same way Excellent...thanks 1 Quote
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 11, 2015 Report Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) I'm learning the warpy-ness is what makes armor "special"! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited May 11, 2015 by russellr2d2 2 Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Posted May 11, 2015 I've made some more progress. I've finished the calves (minus the velcro) and I'm now working on the knee plate. This build seems to be going on forever. I knew i'd be slow gut didn't realize it would take me this long. 2 Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Posted May 12, 2015 I have a few more questions: 1. Is there a guide to the dimensions and placement of the thermal detonator? Am I supposed you use a grey PVC pipe or a white pipe that is painted? Whet length is it? 2. What type of snaps do I use to attache the bottom of the chest piece to the butt plate? Where do I find them? Thanks Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) I have a few more questions: 1. Is there a guide to the dimensions and placement of the thermal detonator? Am I supposed you use a grey PVC pipe or a white pipe that is painted? Whet length is it? 2. What type of snaps do I use to attache the bottom of the chest piece to the butt plate? Where do I find them? Thanks Well I'm assuming your TD came with your kit, the tube should dimensions should be correct as it. It should be painted the same color grey as the helmet traps, ab buttons or close. From the CRL: Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.The cylinder is between 2†(50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. For level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. As for the snaps - Tandy or Fasnap Tandy - https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/home/snaps.aspx?pg=all Fasnap (my choice) - http://fasteners.fasnap.com/category/snap-fasteners---screw-studs Edited May 12, 2015 by ukswrath Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Posted May 12, 2015 Well I'm assuming your TD came with your kit, the tube should dimensions should be correct as it. It should be painted the same color grey as the helmet traps, ab buttons or close. From the CRL: Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.The cylinder is between 2†(50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. For level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. As for the snaps - Tandy or Fasnap Tandy - https://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/home/snaps.aspx?pg=all Fasnap (my choice) - http://fasteners.fasnap.com/category/snap-fasteners---screw-studs Thanks Tony...Like an idiot I looked everywhere but the official CRL. Do you know what size snaps are used for the bottom of the chest plate and butt plate? Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 12, 2015 Report Posted May 12, 2015 Thanks Tony...Like an idiot I looked everywhere but the official CRL. Do you know what size snaps are used for the bottom of the chest plate and butt plate? Line 24 nickel is the most common Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Posted May 12, 2015 Line 24 nickel is the most common Thank you! Quote
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