justjoseph63[Staff] Posted March 9, 2015 Report Posted March 9, 2015 Getting down to the nitty gritty now... I need some guidance on the best way(s) to install my hard plastic lenses if I may... I have checked a LOT of the tutorials, and they seem to use the long "film" type, and I am kind of stuck. I have dry fit, but not attached the faceplate yet, as I wanted to Plasti-dip it, (done), install the mesh for the teeth, (done), and I figured this would be easier to do this where I could see it better before putting everything together. I am leery of using super-glue, as I don't want it running onto the ABS or the lenses themselves. If anyone knows of a tutorial, or has any advice, I would really appreciate it. Many thanks... 2 Quote
hon143 Posted March 9, 2015 Report Posted March 9, 2015 I kept the lenses as one strip covering both eyes. But, I did trim it so there wasn't excess lens material inside the bucket. I then used a wooden rod I bought at Michaels' and cut it into little half inch pieces to use to attach screws inside the bucket. I just glued the wooden cylindrical blocks inside the bucket around the eye holes (3 per eye hole) with E6000. Once it dried, I just screwed the lens directly into those wooden blocks. I also used a heat gun to bend the lens strip to conform with the bucket shape beforehand too. Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted March 9, 2015 Report Posted March 9, 2015 That's a good one, John. People have used those or glued together a small stack of scrap ABS pieces. Either one will work, but you want to drill those screw holes BEFORE you glue them into the helmet. One little slip and the drill bit will come through the faceplate.....NOT GOOD 2 Quote
hon143 Posted March 9, 2015 Report Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) That's a good one, John. People have used those or glued together a small stack of scrap ABS pieces. Either one will work, but you want to drill those screw holes BEFORE you glue them into the helmet. One little slip and the drill bit will come through the faceplate.....NOT GOOD LOL.....that's the nice thing about using wooden "stakes". I just drilled a tiny "guide hole" into the wood....just like 2 millimeters deep. Then, I just screwed in a small wood screw into it. The wood screw guided itself into the wood. Joseph, I think Gazmosis has a helmet build tutorial using the stacked ABS method. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28633-howto-ata-helmet-build-hand-painted-details-pic-heavy/ Edited March 10, 2015 by hon143 Quote
fuumantroop[TK] Posted March 9, 2015 Report Posted March 9, 2015 I second Steves method! It worked like a charm, and i can easily remove the lenses if needed. Quote
fuumantroop[TK] Posted March 9, 2015 Report Posted March 9, 2015 The wooden dowel works too, i just opted for the abs stack. Just a personal preference Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Posted March 9, 2015 PERFECT information! I just checked out Steve's build, and since I have some leftover ABS, I am going to go that direction, but thank you ALL for the advice! 1 Quote
Zaphod[TK] Posted March 9, 2015 Report Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) I used JB Plastic Weld. It is a 2 part putty that you knead until it becomes a uniform color, them I pressed and molded it around the eye sockets to create a lip. After it hardened I drilled and tapped a few holes to mount the lenses. ---------- Edited January 1, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link not working removed 1 Quote
fuumantroop[TK] Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 Like Steve said, make sure you drill the holes prior to gluing them. And when you mark your lenses to cut, don't be afraid to leave a bunch of excess at first until you get them shaped to your eye and have your holes drilled. Then, and only then should you trim more off the lenses. I learned the hard way on one set lol Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 why don't we use the screen used method? 1 Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 Getting down to the nitty gritty now... I need some guidance on the best way(s) to install my hard plastic lenses if I may... I have checked a LOT of the tutorials, and they seem to use the long "film" type, and I am kind of stuck. I have dry fit, but not attached the faceplate yet, as I wanted to Plasti-dip it, (done), install the mesh for the teeth, (done), and I figured this would be easier to do this where I could see it better before putting everything together. I am leery of using super-glue, as I don't want it running onto the ABS or the lenses themselves. If anyone knows of a tutorial, or has any advice, I would really appreciate it. Many thanks... video above Quote
hon143 Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 why don't we use the screen used method? When I was building my bucket and was thinking about how I would attach the lenses, I noticed that I could just keep that lens as one long strip and use the ear screws too....just like in that video. But, I wasn't aware of that video at the time. However, I didn't want to go that route because I wanted to minimize where I could inside the bucket. I have a big noggin' and I definitely need all the space I can get in there! Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 The size has almost no impact on your head. we are talking about less than 1/8" Quote
hon143 Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 The size has almost no impact on your head. we are talking about less than 1/8" For me, it would be roughly from the outer edge of each eyeball to about the ear where the ear screw would go in. For better peripheral vision inside the bucket, my eyes/face is pretty much right up against the front of the bucket. So, that little bit of extra space would matter to me. Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) there is no extra space? Perhaps you should consider your helmet padding to be changed vison has nothing to do with it. you don't gain any extra vision by using some weird screw and ABS or wood thing. stunt lenses can be velco'd in. hero lenses usually need abs stacks. to be sure. but for a stunt lens you do not lose or gain room inside the helmet. we're talking about 1/8" Edited March 10, 2015 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote
Tusken RTT Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 The velcro idea actually does sound super easy now that you mention it; Why did I not hear of it before!! You would just have to size the lens pieces down a bit prior. I did the long strip with holes for the ear screws. Vern is the right though, the head padding makes all the difference in the world as far as room in the bucket. Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 why don't we use the screen used method? First, this is not the screen used method. That was acetate sheets with an adhesive strip on both sides. Second, the interior of the helmets can be done using any method a trooper wants. As long as the achieved look from the outside is accomplished, the interior has no restrictions. 2 Quote
hon143 Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 there is no extra space? Perhaps you should consider your helmet padding to be changed vison has nothing to do with it. you don't gain any extra vision by using some weird screw and ABS or wood thing. stunt lenses can be velco'd in. hero lenses usually need abs stacks. to be sure. but for a stunt lens you do not lose or gain room inside the helmet. we're talking about 1/8" As Gazmosis stated, ppl can do their interior any way they like. I have an ATA bucket (which is fairly small from what I hear) and a pretty big head. So for me (and I stress only for ME), I thought the one full lens strip attached to the ear screws created less room for me. Certainly, I'm NOT saying it was a bad idea. It's a good idea too....just not for me. Because, the extra strip of lens material across the temple would have made it more snug for me inside the bucket and on the side of my head. Ppl with an MTK, AP, or AM (or any other vendor) have more room inside the bucket because their buckets are bigger. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Posted March 10, 2015 Wow.. Didn't mean to open a can of worms here, but enjoying the lively discussion! First, please don't take this the wrong way, because I thoroughly appreciate all your advice, but I ended up doing something completely different. I went to Lowe's to buy the small screws to attach the lenses, and stumbled upon something called SUGRU. It is a glue that has the consistency of Play-Doh. Since the inside returns on my eye holes were not symmetrical, I decided to give it a try. I was able to mold it around the outside of the lenses and inside return edge, (SUPER easy), but, like E6000, it takes 24 hours to dry. It is holding like a champ. Again, thank you for all the input!!!!!! BTW, I am going to post this "discovery" in hopes that it may give another option to a fellow newb. 1 Quote
Tusken RTT Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 No- you must do it our way! Sounds like you made a cool find! Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 It's a good idea to leave some gap around the eyes and the lens. Not so much that you can see it from the outside of course. This is to let hot air escape out from the gaps as that helps to prevent fogging of the lenses. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk 4 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) It's funny you should say that Mathias, because the exact same thing ran through my mind, so I did end up leaving a small gap around the upper eye for ventilation. Hardly (I hope Steve isn't reading this ) noticeable. I will edit the post I made on this.. GOOD CALL! Edited March 10, 2015 by justjoseph63 Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 You may want some ventilation below as well. Heat rises upwards you know. Quote
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