Tusken RTT Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 I know many of us got our new kits in, how is it going so far for everyone? It has been a fun experience for sure, lots still to do before I holster this baby! Brown box photo- (the stories this box could tell if it could talk) Parts laid out (pics), then filed on, sanded and washed in dish washing soap (no pics). So far I am using only E6000; not fearing the mess right now, I am still going to do A LOT of cleaning up on the dried glue prior to painting. I want to also put a thin line of some ultra-thick super glue gel as a weld along all of the seams of the parts where they attach to the aluminum to give them some extra hold. I have the upgraded counter I got in advance glued and attached to the scope. I drilled out both ends of the scope in advance of putting my len's in place. Added wires to my power cylinders, debating on using the cloth wire. The guage I have is pretty thick, while the area to place it on is pretty small. Thoughts? Like said, LOTS of cleaning up to do, painting, shining, weathering, still a few parts to add and glue, but it looks like a blaster finally. Kind of dreading the T Track bending, but that will be for next week! 3 Quote
Tolo[TK] Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Looking good. As for the T-tracks just bend them using hot water. It's actually easier than it looks. Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Tusken RTT Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks Tolo- you were right! Dipping the tips in boiling water for a few seconds worked really well. I started with the long ones first and a good thing, I messed a couple up. I got better as I went along. It really helps to get a true 90 bend in them for sure. With a little bit of grinding, I can get them to fit a bit more flush, but I feel good for knocking this out when I was just sitting here having some coffee! 1 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Glad you got the kit! With a box like that I"m surprised it was actually all still in there! For some reason a lot of the boxes are arriving in conditions like this, and it's very frustrating for everyone involved! I have done a few things to my packing that hopefully will make these a lot more robust and protect the box better. The contents seem to generally get there ok, just the box is wrecked! 1 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks Tolo- you were right! Dipping the tips in boiling water for a few seconds worked really well. I started with the long ones first and a good thing, I messed a couple up. I got better as I went along. It really helps to get a true 90 bend in them for sure. With a little bit of grinding, I can get them to fit a bit more flush, but I feel good for knocking this out when I was just sitting here having some coffee! Also don't forget, don't glue the top track down until you screw in the stock into the barrel on the bottom. Otherwise you can't reach the screw! 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Hey Scott, looking good so far! Please check some reference pictures regarding the position of the counter and the magazine housing. Seems like these two are a bit close to each other. On your nice power cylinders I would not use that cloth wire, as it seems to be far to big. Just my two cents... Quote
Tusken RTT Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks Derrick- good call on the glueing of the top t track! I also noticed i have to file down the scope bracket now in order to get that T track in. No worries about the box, all was well inside. We know that's out of your control! I agree Tino on the wire, I will have to look for other options. Do you think I need to simply move the entire scope and counter back a cm or 2, or just the counter (they are connected on the bracket)? I was kind of wondering if I could get away with that or if I needed to do it right! Appreciate the advise guys! Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 (...) Do you think I need to simply move the entire scope and counter back a cm or 2, or just the counter (they are connected on the bracket)? I was kind of wondering if I could get away with that or if I needed to do it right! (...) Scott, the position of the counter to the scope looks very good, so I would suggest to move both of them a bit towards the rear sight. In my case the counter window ends where the folding stock hinge ends. Hope this helps... 1 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks Derrick- good call on the glueing of the top t track! I also noticed i have to file down the scope bracket now in order to get that T track in. No worries about the box, all was well inside. We know that's out of your control! I agree Tino on the wire, I will have to look for other options. Do you think I need to simply move the entire scope and counter back a cm or 2, or just the counter (they are connected on the bracket)? I was kind of wondering if I could get away with that or if I needed to do it right! Appreciate the advise guys! I notice you have the bracket for the counter on top of the rail, swap them as the rail should be on top. I personally would move the counter back about 1/4 or 1/2 an inch, but thats me. It's because the scope looks to be just right. The front foot of the scope should be just behind the charging handle, which yours looks to be. I generally planned the counter bracket attachment point flipped to the front of the counter, but since you cut the resin and replaced it with the upgrade, it's better to drill into the resin like you did. Maybe just relocate the counter as far back as you can based on the bracket, it looks like it doesn't move back much further. 1 Quote
Tusken RTT Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks; my goof on the bracket! I even saw that on your build (which has been a HUGE help) and just forgot. Totally why I am going all E6000 for now, and going more permanent when I have everything checked out by the experts! I had about 4 mm available to move the counter bracket back (which moved the scope and counter back), and I also moved the counter only back as you mentioned on the bracket about a 3/4 cm (and drilled a new hole in the resin). Hopefully the two small shifts combined will get me where I need to be. I took them apart though to let the glue do it's thing, so will grab some pics in the morning. Really appreciate the tips! Quote
Dday[501st] Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks; my goof on the bracket! I even saw that on your build (which has been a HUGE help) and just forgot. Totally why I am going all E6000 for now, and going more permanent when I have everything checked out by the experts! I had about 4 mm available to move the counter bracket back (which moved the scope and counter back), and I also moved the counter only back as you mentioned on the bracket about a 3/4 cm (and drilled a new hole in the resin). Hopefully the two small shifts combined will get me where I need to be. I took them apart though to let the glue do it's thing, so will grab some pics in the morning. Really appreciate the tips! Glad my build thread is helpful. I know one of these days I need to do up a new one, a little more focused on a how-to instead of the full journey as well as adding the new parts I have added into the kits. When I do the next run of tubes I will need to modify the WIP for sure since I will be modifying the front sight considerably. 1 Quote
Tusken RTT Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Posted March 7, 2015 OK; got the counter bracket moved down under the rail and shifted the counter back a bit. Cut off the tip of the rail so the T track on top could go in and screwed n glued the stock. Put on the power cylinders and found a smaller wire I will use on the back; will put that on after the glue dries tonight; some progress pics, still in the rough dirty stage of course. Tip for those in the build- do NOT glue your end of the barrel front piece in until near the end! Getting the screws and washers in for the stock can be next to impossible if you do; trust me! Quote
mablax12 Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 First post ever... Just got my kit from Derrek and can't wait to start! These build threads are amazing yet soooo tantalizing at the same time! Fortunately, the box was in pristine condition. For those purchasing in the future, I might recommend paying the extra $5 for Derrek to sheath the tube for shipping, especially when spending such an amount on a kit. Quote
Tusken RTT Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Posted March 12, 2015 (edited) OK got my coat of black on and dabbed on some silver on some areas, but still need to get some brass color for the scope weathering and do the silver dry brush for the blaster weathering, plus a little clean up and detail work. I started with the old fashion weathering, just kind of scratching some areas, but I think I want to go for the brushed look for this one. I have not glued in the len's yet, still waiting on a larger one for the big lens and going to try some o rings to mount them in. The link to the len's I used is here- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30373-cheap-perfect-lens-for-e11-scopes/ Anything glaring (besides it being dirty) right now that stands out? Edited March 12, 2015 by Tusken RTT Quote
fuumantroop[TK] Posted March 12, 2015 Report Posted March 12, 2015 Looks great Scott! GREAT SCOTT!!!! Lol, couldn't help myself. Can't wait to see this in person! Btw, I have some brass paint handy, when your ready, come over and lets weather that bad boy! 1 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted March 12, 2015 Report Posted March 12, 2015 OK got my coat of black on and dabbed on some silver on some areas, but still need to get some brass color for the scope weathering and do the silver dry brush for the blaster weathering, plus a little clean up and detail work. I started with the old fashion weathering, just kind of scratching some areas, but I think I want to go for the brushed look for this one. I have not glued in the len's yet, still waiting on a larger one for the big lens and going to try some o rings to mount them in. The link to the len's I used is here- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30373-cheap-perfect-lens-for-e11-scopes/ Anything glaring (besides it being dirty) right now that stands out? The only thing I see right off is your bolt. It looks to be a consistent color of silver. On the normal ones that raised section is a brighter silver since it is actually sliding against the inner barrel and polishing itself where the main body of the bolt or a much darker gunmetal grey color. Also, you should continue the coloration of the bolt on the section you can see through the charging slide. Quote
Tusken RTT Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Posted March 12, 2015 I gotcha, thanks. I missed that one. I am on it! Quote
Tusken RTT Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Posted March 17, 2015 Blue snaggletooth from here had some, he did a small run. I love it! 40 euro I believe. Quote
Barcode Posted March 18, 2015 Report Posted March 18, 2015 Im extremely unhappy with my kit. I think I might sell mine....... Quote
Tolo[TK] Posted March 18, 2015 Report Posted March 18, 2015 Im extremely unhappy with my kit. I think I might sell mine....... How come? Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk Quote
Dday[501st] Posted March 19, 2015 Report Posted March 19, 2015 Im extremely unhappy with my kit. I think I might sell mine....... I think he is being sarcastic. I've heard nothing from him about anything negative. Quite the opposite, all the feedback I've had so far has been positive and him and I have talked quite a bit over the last weeks. In the case Ben is serious, please message me. 1 Quote
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