usaeatt2 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 Anybody ever used one of these for painting the black lines (around the ears and traps) on their helmet? As long as the line isn't too thick, this seems like a no brainer way to get consistent line thickness... Quote
Pencap510 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 Haven't tried it.. But my fear would be if your hand shook and you messed up- there's no going back (that I know of). At least with paints theres mineral spirits to clean up any boo boos Quote
Tolo[TK] Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 I remember seeing someone doing it. Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk Quote
russellr2d2[TK] Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 I think it will rub off and I read that polish takes it off. Paint is forever. I have used sharpies on things and have it wash out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
usaeatt2 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Posted February 25, 2015 Haven't tried it.. But my fear would be if your hand shook and you messed up- there's no going back (that I know of). At least with paints theres mineral spirits to clean up any boo boos I think I would have the same problem with a brush... I think it will rub off and I read that polish takes it off. Paint is forever. I have used sharpies on things and have it wash out. It's oil based paint, NOT a regular Sharpie marker... Quote
bearings[TK] Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 I've screwed up plenty with enamel paints and have always been able to go back and clean up with thinner/toothpicks to clean it up. If you're worried about not being able to clean up the marker, I'd probably test it on a spare piece of ABS first to see how that goes. 1 Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 That tip in no wY looks like it would give the pinstripe you would need. I couldn't even imagine trying to get that tip into the tear edges Quote
usaeatt2 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) Alright guys, good advice. Edited February 25, 2015 by usaeatt2 Quote
usaeatt2 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Posted February 25, 2015 I should have tried a test piece before my first post because I've got interesting results... Somebody at Sharpie must have mixed some of their permanant black India ink with the oil based paint. I made a test piece with several different size lines, watched an hour of TV with the wife, then tried to remove the lines. The paint was completely dry - not like my Humbrol that takes two days to dry. It took 10 minutes of rubbing vigorously with a rag SOAKED in mineral spirits...and that just removed the paint. Under the paint, the white plastic was stained a darkish brown color. Removing the stains took another 10 minutes of rubbing. Because of this, I wouldn't use this unless I was DAMN sure I could get it right in one error-free pass. I also tried cutting the tip down to a finer point. That was easy with a sharp exacto blade, but the tip doesn't hold it's shape when you have to push it into the marker to reload the paint. AND, now I've got black stains on my fingertips that acetone won't remove. Should be fun at work tomorrow. Thinking I'll stick with the tried and true Humbrol and a brush... Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) I've seen them used on straight printed decals to make them look hand painted Edited February 25, 2015 by gmrhodes13 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 I should have tried a test piece before my first post because I've got interesting results... Somebody at Sharpie must have mixed some of their permanant black India ink with the oil based paint. I made a test piece with several different size lines, watched an hour of TV with the wife, then tried to remove the lines. The paint was completely dry - not like my Humbrol that takes two days to dry. It took 10 minutes of rubbing vigorously with a rag SOAKED in mineral spirits...and that just removed the paint. Under the paint, the white plastic was stained a darkish brown color. Removing the stains took another 10 minutes of rubbing. Because of this, I wouldn't use this unless I was DAMN sure I could get it right in one error-free pass. I also tried cutting the tip down to a finer point. That was easy with a sharp exacto blade, but the tip doesn't hold it's shape when you have to push it into the marker to reload the paint. AND, now I've got black stains on my fingertips that acetone won't remove. Should be fun at work tomorrow. Thinking I'll stick with the tried and true Humbrol and a brush... They make paint markers with a 0.8mm tip that I think would work good. I haven't used them on the border lines as I have had pretty good results with a nice file tip brush. I will lay out a complete black layer over the entire spot, then a gray layer on top of this. All you see after this is a nice fine black line and you only need 1 layer of gray since the back acts as a primer layer. What I have used the sharpee or paint pens for is the straight lines on the tears and rear traps. I get a nice straight line running this against a ruler. Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 (...) Because of this, I wouldn't use this unless I was DAMN sure I could get it right in one error-free pass. (...) Aaron, I had the same problem just yesterday when finishing a Tamiya model kit (scale 1/24). I used a permanent marker to add a semi gloss black frame to all windows and lights. Can tell you, it was no fun to do this. For this 911 GT2 kit I saw no other chance than this, but for the ears on a helmet kit I would do it like Derrek stated. Good luck man Quote
Chip Posted February 25, 2015 Report Posted February 25, 2015 Never tried this on ABS but an old trick for removing errant permanent marker from a whiteboard is to go over it with a drywipe marker always seems to work without taking the shine off the whiteboard which spirits would remove. Quote
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