SeanTX Posted January 31, 2015 Report Posted January 31, 2015 So its about time I finally posted a thread. I started work on my suit and my brothers back in Novemeber. But other projects (Airplane, christmas presents, 40k) pop up and keep me at a slow pace. So we worked for 2 days and got the apendages done. Save the sniper plate, ammo boxes, strapings. ] The shins are glued just not pictured. This week I made the thermal detonators. I found some slotted pan head screws that seemed the right size when I scaled the reference photo on my phone. At ACE hardware if anyone wanted to find some. I couldn't find the 1" aluminum strips from homedepot everyone was talking about. But I did find a 4" x 10" x 1/16" sheet at the hobby store. And was able to cut two sets of strips on the band saw from two plates. I did goof and got the hole measurements from an old video and not from the reference photo. If I could do it again I would move the first hole a lot closer to the end but. from my readings this meets evey published standard. Today I though I would cut out the chest detals but I was encountering some diffeneces from listed dimensions to kit dimensions. The BillHAg diagram (which are awesome by the way and I wish I could find where they are all organized together) shows the button plates to be 65mm x 94mm and 75mm x 20 mm. That was to big for my kit so I cut them down to 60 x 89mm and 70 x 20mm, Do the look like I cut off to much material? That was the only standard I could find. Quote
starsaber25[Admin] Posted January 31, 2015 Report Posted January 31, 2015 Hey Sean things are looking good I can grant you one wish..check this link out http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28150-is-there-a-billhag-referencechart-compilation-somewhere/?hl=%2Bbillhag 1 Quote
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted January 31, 2015 Report Posted January 31, 2015 Looks like you're off to a great start, Sean! Keep at it... Quote
SeanTX Posted February 1, 2015 Author Report Posted February 1, 2015 Sweet lemonade, Thanks starsaber! Quote
SeanTX Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Posted February 19, 2015 I got my thigh ammo belt bent. And i understand the curve on the bottom. But which rivet holds it in place? And is it cool to trim a lot more off one side? And I found these gloves at walmart. I don't seem to recall the grippy pad being on the finger nail too in reference photos. Quote
fuumantroop[TK] Posted February 19, 2015 Report Posted February 19, 2015 Careful with those gloves. Ive gone through a pair already, the cuff is pretty fragile when pulling them on. Quote
fuumantroop[TK] Posted February 19, 2015 Report Posted February 19, 2015 Get the rubbermaid chemical resistant gloves near that paint isle. Also at walmart Quote
Bone[501st] Posted February 22, 2015 Report Posted February 22, 2015 That grippy pad and the fingernails are accurate. The gloves are NOT smooth. 1 Quote
Sly11[Admin] Posted February 22, 2015 Report Posted February 22, 2015 Cap rivets are use on the thigh. Yes you will want to trim the knee pack evenly . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
SeanTX Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Posted February 23, 2015 Evenly on both sides like two inches. Or even with the corner of the shin? Quote
SeanTX Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Posted March 10, 2015 I found better gloves at Home Depot. And got my BCG undersuit from Academy. I got my torso and kidney pieces sized but not trimmed. But is there a prefered place the seam should be on your body? I assumed from pictures you want it right about the center and as vertical as you can make it. And is there a prefered length that the cup needs to extend under ones crotch? Quote
SeanTX Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Posted March 19, 2015 So I started work on the bucket. Quote
SeanTX Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Posted March 19, 2015 And assembly was easy enough. I read so many posts that the dimples didn't line up that I was scared to drill but. I just said screw it and screwed it and it fit just fine. Quote
SeanTX Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Posted March 19, 2015 But now for the ears.I'm familiar enough with the slow shaving and using the profile tool. But I wasn't expecting the notch on top not to line up. What are our tolerances for removing material here? Quote
Clonecollector[TK] Posted March 19, 2015 Report Posted March 19, 2015 But now for the ears.I'm familiar enough with the slow shaving and using the profile tool. But I wasn't expecting the notch on top not to line up. What are our tolerances for removing material here? I had to remove a little more of the notches too. I think you'll be OK if you try just a little at a time. Quote
fuumantroop[TK] Posted March 19, 2015 Report Posted March 19, 2015 Yup, cut away at the notches. They are only there to help position the ear, and don't effect the overall quality of your helmet. My AP helmet did not have notches on it at all, unlike my AM helmet. BUT I fully recommend keeping the notches, but trim them some if you need to 1 Quote
SeanTX Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Posted July 1, 2015 So I'm working on my abbs. And I've got the spacing measured I just don't know what to trim. I can take even amounts from the front and back and my seem will be on the pencil line. Or should I remove more from the back so the seem goes right down the middle of my side? Quote
SeanTX Posted July 4, 2015 Author Report Posted July 4, 2015 So my AM 2.0 ears came pre trimmed. Too much I think but I'll wait on input. LEFT front LEFT rear RIGHT front RIGHT rear Quote
SeanTX Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Posted July 5, 2015 So the LEFT (looking at the face my bad) fits fine. But the RIGHT side the bottom screw hole is to short or I believe there isn't enough material at the bottom for the holes to line up. If I pull it tight the curves seat ok but the holes will never line up. Should I just drill a new hole in both the helmet halves? I though maybe my ear was just trimmed wrong at the "factory". But i checked my brother's kit and it is the same size. So I imagine all the other 2.0 Builders are running into this problem. The holes on the helmet halves fit fine but might this also be causing the lean? Quote
GeorgePBurdell[501st] Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 I had the same problem, so I heated the ear and reformed it to fit the helmet. It looks a little off but was good enough for basic approval Sent from protocol Android Quote
SeanTX Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Posted July 6, 2015 I had the same problem, so I heated the ear and reformed it to fit the helmet. It looks a little off but was good enough for basic approval Sent from protocol Android That was my next idea. Where on the ear did you decide to heat? I've had spotty success with my heat gun. I think I set it to hot and the sharp edges curl. Is it taboo to heat the cheek and push it out to close the gap between the ear and cheek? Why do you think its not good enough for other approval? Quote
GeorgePBurdell[501st] Posted July 7, 2015 Report Posted July 7, 2015 I actually stuck the whole ear in the oven and heated it with the screws in place, then stretched it until the holes were aligned, and pushed it into place on the cheek to close the gap a bit. I don't think it would be approved for other approvals because it caused a little discoloration (which I covered with some paint), it softens the corners so they look rounded instead of crisp, and the circular portion of the ear became misshapen (ellipse instead of circle). I'm not sure about reforming the cheek, but I know we're not the only people to have this issue with the AM kit so maybe someone else has done it and posted their results. Good luck! Quote
SeanTX Posted August 4, 2015 Author Report Posted August 4, 2015 So I'm up to assembling the belt. I have the snaps for the belt measured and installed. 15mm up on both sides 28 mm to the viewers left and 59mm to the viewers right. But I'm worried how the belt will lay. Per references the cloth portion of the belt should be 1/4" below the ab button box. However if I draw a line around the waist parallel the ground the top of where the cloth belt should be gets within a cm of the top. If the snaps were to be in the center of the belt there should be ~ 1.5" from the line to the snap. Belt in its proper place with approximate location of snaps. Looks good but snaps would be way to high. Here is how the belt has to align for approximately proper snap placement. But now the belt is to high. Quote
Skypig Posted August 4, 2015 Report Posted August 4, 2015 I don't think it's written in stone where the snaps on your belt are placed. Nobody is going to see the snaps on the inside of your belt. 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 5, 2015 Report Posted August 5, 2015 (edited) I don't think it's written in stone where the snaps on your belt are placed. Nobody is going to see the snaps on the inside of your belt. Exactly. So I'm up to assembling the belt. I have the snaps for the belt measured and installed. 15mm up on both sides 28 mm to the viewers left and 59mm to the viewers right. But I'm worried how the belt will lay. Per references the cloth portion of the belt should be 1/4" below the ab button box. However if I draw a line around the waist parallel the ground the top of where the cloth belt should be gets within a cm of the top. If the snaps were to be in the center of the belt there should be ~ 1.5" from the line to the snap. Belt in its proper place with approximate location of snaps. Looks good but snaps would be way to high. Here is how the belt has to align for approximately proper snap placement. But now the belt is to high. EDIT: Unfortunate the placement of the ab snaps according to illustrations and RS reference pics are 1/4-1/2" different between the RS ab and AM ab. It doesn't help the AM belt is quite a bit wider than most also, all contributing to the belt riding high. As Michael mention there's no rule as to where the snaps have to be placed. The key is as long as the ammo belt is below the lowest ab button you should be golden. Edited August 5, 2015 by ukswrath 1 Quote
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