Altair's Resin Doopydoos E11 Build

[Altair]

I've put my DIY lug to the side for the moment as I got a response from Doopys - they are shipping me a lug!

So on with the build...

I've added another detail to the inner bolt. Also in reference pics there is a serial number that runs along the top.. I might do this mod, maybe?



For the front sight I decided to leave this in once piece for durability, this will be a trooping blaster after all! Using the dremel I cleaned up the sides and thinned the base around the pin mount. I then used some green stuff to thicken up the pin mount so I could drill a small hole in the right side to put a grub screw. I also cut a slot in the base on each side.



The pin was made out of a spare piece of aluminum and a hole drilled in the top of the pin mount to slot it in.



Bit more green stuff to clean this piece up a bit.. was pretty fiddly

[Altair]

I have the power!!!... power cylinders that is

Using T-Jay's awesome tutorial here the fiirst thing I did with the Doopys resin power cylinders is grab the dremel to grind out the capacitors in between the cylinders and also make a hole in the back plate for the new capacitors to poke through



To make the new capacitors I used 3 x pieces of aluminum rod, 6 x pieces of wire and some green stuff.



First step was rounding the edges of the aluminum. Then roll up some green stuff into little balls and press them onto the ends. Finally push the wires into the center of the green stuff and leave it to set hard.



A quick test fit...



Rather than replacing the little bridge piece between the cylinders, I decided to leave it be and drill 3 x small holes to thread the wires through.

I also thinned the large base down and reduced the end caps slightly.



Now onto trimming the back plate. Thanks to Andy (PlayfulWolfCub) there are 5 x different documented back plates (A to E). I chose shape A.



Using some more green stuff (gotta love it!), I rolled some thin rod shapes, let them cure, then sanded the ends to simulate the resistors on the end



The "resistors" were then glued underneath the rear end caps.

Also in the middle of each end cap I also added a small bolt and nut.



The heads of the bolts were then cut off.

Also using some spare abs plastic, I cut 2 x small squares to make the wing stubs that go on the outer sides. These were glued in place.



Getting there...

Edited May 7, 2015 by Altair

[Dday[501st]]

A little more modification to the Hengstler.. What good is a counter with no numbers? Time to fix that!

 

You mentioned it not being accurate when it's flat, this isn't so!

 

There are Hengstler 400's with a domed cover as well as a flat cover. The ones with the flat cover are nearly even with the level of the plastic housing so it doesn't stand up like the domed ones do. So flat is also accurate, but it will just need to not be as thick.

[Altair]

Thanks for letting me know mate, I'll keep it flat

[T-Jay[TK]]

John, it looks like you really studied that power cylinders tutorial .

 

Thanks for the kudos and I am looking forward seeing your completed power cylinders with all the wires and some paint...  Nice work so far.

[gazmosis[501st]]

This is getting better and better!

[charlesnarles]

Yeah, great attn to detail for a trooping blaster as you say😄I'm inspired to get a doopy lug (genius) and read a lot more about the 5 styles of power cylinders. Keep it up

[Sly11[Admin]]

Thanks for letting me know mate, I'll keep it flat

Hey John

If you want a curved one , I am more than happy to knock one up for you, got plenty of perspective to play with, so can make it at standard dimensions 10x34.

 

Let me know

 

 

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[Altair]

Cheers mate! That would be great. I owe you a beer

 

 

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[Altair]

Some finishing touches to the power cylinders... first put on a coat of primer, then the first coat of flat black



Installed my capacitors, threading the wires through the holes then bending the ends back up around the front edge



Added some wires to the back ends of the capacitors to connect them to the resistors. You can't really tell from the image but I did in fact solder these on



OK well I think this might be the last mod... next stop Paint Town!

[Sly11[Admin]]

Detail is outstanding mate, will make your display piece this weekend.

 

 

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[T-Jay[TK]]

Very nice John - especially the soldering on the red wire

 

And I like the fact you made those resistors from the green stuff, too.

 

Good luck for the paint work...

Edited May 14, 2015 by T-Jay

[Altair]

Small update... I've put a coat of flat black over the power cylinder capacitors and wires at the back... only thing left now is glue and weathering





Another small update, thanks to Sly11 I now have a curved piece of plexiglass for the counter display - thanks again mate!



Looks much better IMHO

[T-Jay[TK]]

Very cool progress. Power cylinders are looking like coming fresh from the factory . I like the fact you left a little of the red wire visible.

 

The curved counter display is much more realistic and also creates some kind of zooming-effect to the numbers. Really nice.

[Crusader_6[TK]]

I agree with T-Jay! I, for one, can't wait to see the end result of your Blaster. Very nice detailing!

 

 

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

Details are awesome. Great wotk on the cylinders and the counter display glass is a perfect.

[Altair]

Time for some paint! But first I gave all the parts a wash with warm soapy water



An old clothes drying rack came in handy to hang parts



I had some Dy-Mark plastic primer but it was clear making it hard to tell if you have an even coat... so everything got a coat of Rust-Oleum 2X Flat Grey Primer instead





I gave some of the smaller pieces a quick coat of primer so I didn't have to spray heavy on those areas once attached to the blaster



Small pieces glued on with Selleys 5-min Araldite, left to cure, then a coat of primer for the lot

[Sly11[Admin]]

Getting there, just make sure you clear the areas of paint that you are going to bond together. ie. trigger guard contact points,  pistol grip etc, otherwise you may not get a good strong bond.

Edited May 17, 2015 by Sly11

[Khazid[TK]]

Best way to clear the glue areas is small strips of masking tape. The tape should be around 1/8" less in diameter of the area the glue will adhere too. That way paint is a little under the joint to make a seam, but allowa for good joint ashesion.

[Altair]

Thanks guys, I sanded back the areas requiring glue and taped them up

 

I started to paint some parts black but I didn't like the finish of the Dy-Mark Flat Black paint I started to use.. it seemed quite glossy for a flat! So I switched to Rust-Oleum Flat Black instead







I taped off and painted the handle whilst it wasn't connected to the barrel. I used Dy-Mark Gloss Black for the handle but I forgot to take a picture (you'll see it later anyway )



Now that everything has been painted flat black, my plan is to use a hammered black on the barrel and folding stock to give it some texture. I gave the folding stock a light coat of Dy-Mark Hammered Black as a test and I think it looks OK.





The hammered finish does seem to have lighten the black, so I'm thinking about putting another light coat of flat (or satin?) black over the top? Light enough not to reduce the hammered effect.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Very nice texture! I personally think your black looks really nice like that, no need for that extra layer of flat black.

[Sly11[Admin]]

It's going to look beautiful when it's finished.

 

 

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[Altair]

Small update

Taped up everything that I didn't want a hammered finish on



Applied a light coat of hammered black



I decided that I would also add a light coat of Rust-Oleum Satin Black over areas with hammered paint..

[Sly11[Admin]]

I've said it before and I will say it again, Beautiful.

 

 

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

Stunning! Beautiful paint job. Going bak over the hammer finish really looks amazing, just enough texture but not over the top.