ATA Armor Build_My First TK

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

To reduce the forearm size, your best option is to cut the excess from the back joint. The originals didn't have any raised ridge at the back to allow such "tailoring".

 

However if you decide to go that way, be aware that they'll become a lot more harder to close and glue together. Be sure to have strong magnets and some boiling water for shape adjustments.

[Brru[TK]]

Also, keep in mind the old addage that its easier to remove material than put it on...

 

I'm thinking I might just pad the inside of mine, so they stay large and see if anyone tells me to take them in.

[russellr2d2[TK]]

I have a Star Wars Costumes book of the original trilogy. It shows nice photos of all the stormtroopers armor and screen shots. In the photos you can see how large diameter the forearms are. But it is also evident that the gloves, under suit and hand guards hide much of the view up the arms as some have stated above. I had taken the raised section of the arm down to just 14-15mm. The bottom cover strip will be 13-14mm a little cheat. The right arm is fairly large now but not so open as it was before.

 

Thanks troopers for the advice!

 

 

 

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[russellr2d2[TK]]

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Edited March 26, 2015 by russellr2d2

[russellr2d2[TK]]

I have done a cpl things. I trimmed down the cover strip areas to a min 14-15mm (even a little bit of a cheat to 13) . Then I will put in some foam to keep the arm centered.

 

 

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[russellr2d2[TK]]

Here are some photos of the right forearm progress. 

 

First was lucky and decided to use E6000 glue and I could pull apart the arms (no more CA glue!)  I next continued to sand down the arm edges as much as permitted.  I left a min of 13-14mm. The cover strips will be the standard 15mm.

 

Spread out a sheet of sandpaper and it helps make a nice straight line.  Easy to control by applying more or less pressure at the ends while sanding back and forth.  Do draw a line to stop at. It's hard to estimate the correct line with just eyeballing it.

 

 

Gluing a new inside strip to the arm using E6000.  Love clamps!

 

 

Below is the new diameter of the right forearm. It is still large but as I have big black gloves and the hand guard I think this will be acceptable.  Foam will also center it on my wrist making it look even smaller looking....DONE!

 

[russellr2d2[TK]]

Gluing up the forearms using E6000 and magnets/clamps. Apply glue and fit the pieces together with tape, pull the tape hard for strength. Then apply the clamps and magnets.  I have been using a metal ruler as an extra piece to spread out the pressure of the magnets and press the joint down flat.

 

 

I matched the front end of the arms because they are probably the most visible.  The back end gets mismatched.  Easy to iron down and fold over the extra bit and then sand and polish.

 

 

 

SCORE!   FREE scissors at Harbor Freight Tools with a coupon!   Stainless steel edges too!

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good, you could add some foam if your forearms rotate

[russellr2d2[TK]]

Finishing up forearms:

 

 

This is the last cover strip on the forearms.  I left the thing to sit for three days to allow the E6000 to get as rubbery

as possible.  This forearm had to be squeezed together to get the two edges to stay together and it is under stress

now that the clamps are removed so i want the E6000 to be as tough as it can be.  There is also a small inner strip.

 

 

After removing the clamps I see some of the glue has squeezed out over the three day dry period.

I put a lot of glue on the strip and I expected some of this.  I want this connection to be really strong

because the two arm parts did not want to go together and I had to force them into position.

 

How to clean this up???

 

 

 

 

I first used a #11 blade (NEW) and cut into the glue.  E6000 is rubbery and a little hard when it cures.

After the cut I can then scrape away the glue with my finger nail.  Its really hard to do this without cutting the glue first.  Use a brand new blade.

    

 

 

I then use Bestine Rubber Cement Thinner to clean up any left over glue film and oils.  Bestine is a great cleaner for anything.  It leaves no film and does not damage plastic.

It makes a great small spot remover for suits too.  Look how white and clean the cover strip area is now.

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You can also use polish on a rag, works well and doesn't leave scratches. Coming along nicely

[russellr2d2[TK]]

Fixing up the edges with an iron:

 

This turns out to be really easy. Set your hobby iron on high. Make sure you have the sock on it.

Press the flat of the iron onto the edge of the plastic and let it heat up.  move the iron back and forth

and tilt the iron over the edge as in the photos below.

 

   

 

 

I used a movement that pushes the hot soft plastic over with the flat of the iron.

 

 

 

You take the iron away quickly and use your fingers to bend the plastic where you want it.  It will be a bit wrinkly but you can sand that out.

It takes a little messing with it over and over to get it where you want.   Below is after I did a little sanding.  The big open triangle between

the halves will be filled with "GOOP"....I love "GOOP"  Below is the "GOOP" recipe.

 

       

[Brru[TK]]

I also found using the top of my finger nail works really well for buffing out the E6000. I cut them with a knife and then rub my nail along the endges to create friction. The E6000 just rolls up and falls off.

[russellr2d2[TK]]

I also found using the top of my finger nail works really well for buffing out the E6000. I cut them with a knife and then rub my nail along the endges to create friction. The E6000 just rolls up and falls off.

 

 

Yup!  You can see that happening in one of the above photos.

 

On to the SHINS!   More photos later.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

I know this may be hindsight, but for future builders, since the lower forearm has a no return edge requirement it is much easier to align and trim the lower edge after you have aligned the upper return edge, unless for some reason your armor didn't come with enough plastic at the lower edge to do this. 

 

BTW, Great job on your build Russell   

Edited January 15, 2015 by ukswrath

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I know this may be hindsight, but for future builders, since the lower forearm has a no return edge requirement it is much easier to align and trim the lower edge

Align the top edge and trim the lower

 

Nice work with the heating iron

Edited January 15, 2015 by gmrhodes13

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Align the top edge and trim the lower

 

Nice work with the heating iron

 

Simply put, thanks Q 

[russellr2d2[TK]]

Thanks guys for the comments!!!

 

HEY!!  I almost forgot to do my shoulder bell pieces.  Well....away we go!

 

Here I am using the score and bend method to trim out the excess plastic. Make your first x-acto score real slow and light and you can do it freehand. Then score heaver a few times.

I like this flat nosed pliers I have because it grabs a wide area of the plastic.  That makes it easy to bend over a larger width of the plastic.  bend it over and over a few times before trying to snap it off.  I have not used any other trimming method yet this works so easy and, it is accurate. I trim off just outside of my final line and then sand down to my final return edge.  i do a lot of sanding in my build.  it is slower but also it lets you make boo-boos and stiff fix em.

 

   

 

 

After sanding the broken edge you get a nice line. Just where you want it because you slowly worked back with sanding to get to the line you want.

I also use fine sandpaper to round off the edge of the plastic so it is very smooth to the touch.

 

     

 

 

 

Remember that iron job I did above?  it left that big wide gap at the edge.  Here is the gap filled with "GOOP"   Just sand and it is gone.

     

[Polar]

I have a few of those to take  care of myself. 

[russellr2d2[TK]]

FIT REALITY CHECK !

 

How do the experts and centurions think of this arm fit.  All these pieces are just laid onto my arm, no straps or foam padding inside.  Overall what I am concerned with is the diameter being too large but maybe this is OK.  Seems with the gloves the front end of the arm is covered/filled and it turned out pretty good.   I defer to your good judgement sirs!

 

Do you take care of this with foam to center the arm inside the tube?

 

 

 

Here is the entire arm. All the pieces just placed on no straps or any padding yet.  What do you think?

 

To me wearing it for the first time it just seems so bulky and strange.  But I "think" wearing armor is something you get used to.

How tight should the arm armor look?   Here I put on my under suite and glove to make it more real.

 

Edited January 17, 2015 by russellr2d2

[gazmosis[501st]]

Nice work!!!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Looks great Russell. Every arm fits differently. If yours are loose don't fret, nothing a little foam can't take care of however, I don't suggest doing that until after approvals. I highly suggest looking at Centurion approval posts and follow their lead. 

Edited January 16, 2015 by ukswrath

[DroidHunter]

Looking good. You can't escape that larger right forearm on the ATA kit. All of us ATA troops have it. You just have to pad it out a bit to keep it from rattling around.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Looking good. You can't escape that larger right forearm on the ATA kit. All of us ATA troops have it. You just have to pad it out a bit to keep it from rattling around.

 

Yup!

[russellr2d2[TK]]

OK!  Thank you all for your comments and advice.  Thats why I post here!

 

Going back out to the garage to work now...      

[Snaps[TK]]

Looking good so far!