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Posted

Russell is great on detail. I think he could pull of a fantastic captain. He'd probably be zooming in 10x on blu-ray screenshots to get the weathering patter just perfect! "But the direction of the sand is painted in a 48 degree angle." LOL

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Posted (edited)

Russell is great on detail. I think he could pull of a fantastic captain. He'd probably be zooming in 10x on blu-ray screenshots to get the weathering patter just perfect! "But the direction of the sand is painted in a 48 degree angle." LOL

 

Oh I have no doubt my friend Russell here could pull off a Cantina Captain, or any sandy for that matter. I'm more concerned about him continuing to be apart of the human race do to the research, focus and accuracy it takes to be SWAT approved these days. I would love to see this more than anyone.

Edited by ukswrath
Posted (edited)

Oh you guys! . It would be the death of me !

 

 

I'll tell you what's next.... REBEL FLEET TROOPER ! I like those big helmets.

And I need a pal for my R2d2.

 

emoji38]

 

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Edited by russellr2d2
Posted

Heck if you like big helmets you should build a Spaceballs Dark Helmet  :laugh1:

Posted (edited)

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32445-tk-20017-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-ata/

 

 

Just applied for Centurion!

 

 

Whew!

 

My EIB review:

I chickened out on making the tears on my bucket larger as suggested. I think the "I will mess them up if I go at them again" far outweighs any advantage in a larger size. So I respectfully decline the friendly suggestion.

 

 

Hope to sport my new centurion badge this coming weekend at a troop i am going to.

 

 

Thanks all!

Edited by russellr2d2
Posted

Building update: installation of new rubber hinge left side ab/kidney.

 

post-20327-143915343696_thumb.jpg

 

After one troop the hing looks like this. Holding tight so far.

 

 

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Posted

I still need to change my elastic hinges. I wonder if I put CA glue around the holes on the nylon, if it would strengthen it enough to not allow it to deform like yours did. 

 

For starters I generally make the nylon webbing rivet holes a drill size smaller than the rivet itself. I then take a cigarette lighter and slightly cauterize both sides of the hole. I get very little expansion using this technique. I've trooped over a dozen times and maybe gained 1/8" in gap.

 

Another key is to make the rivet holes in the ab and kidney a bit smaller than the rivet itself also. This will help prevent the rivets from leaning.

Posted

Building update: installation of new rubber hinge left side ab/kidney.

 

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1439153434.207598.jpg

 

After one troop the hing looks like this. Holding tight so far.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Dang Russell looks awesome.  :jc_doublethumbup:

Posted

I've been using a drill bit and using my butane lighter to heat it up to make holes for snaps in nylon for snaps. Just want to avoid fixing this for a second time.  

 

Using a drill to punch a hole through fabric is not the best tool for the job to begin with. A leather punch is much cleaner. This is a excellent kit to have if you're interested.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQKB72?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Posted

I got some for when I do my canvas belt. I figured it was no less different than using a soldering iron like I've seen people using. 

 

Getting back on topic... Russell did you get the Centurion approval yet?

Posted (edited)

I got some for when I do my canvas belt. I figured it was no less different than using a soldering iron like I've seen people using. 

 

Getting back on topic... Russell did you get the Centurion approval yet?

 

Soldering iron is also a good idea, again as long as the hole you're creating is exactly the same size or smaller than the rivet.

 

I think he's waiting for Gaz to get back from vaca.

Edited by ukswrath
Posted (edited)

Centurion!

 

See the little red do-hickey down on the left?

I wonder what the thing says?

Edited by russellr2d2
Posted

The Aurabesh in the Centurion ribbon says "FISD"  Congrats!  (:

Posted (edited)

Hung up my certificates tonight. They are out in the man cave. Framed and under glass.

 

post-20327-143944135959_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Edited by russellr2d2
  • Like 3
Posted

And check out my shirt!! Woooooo....

post-20327-14394415773_thumb.jpg

 

 

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  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hi, i'm on the waiting list for ATA armor but I have discovered Andy's shed of glittering delights and he offers a TE derived armor faster (3-4 weeks) and assembled and abit cheaper due to living in the UK. Does anyone know much about his armor? Thanks, at present i have a ATA helmet and FX armor (rookie armor lol) 

 

Great work on your armor by the way! Impressive, most impressive

Edited by Finchydavinci
Posted (edited)

Just starting to trim parts of my armor and i'm outright embarrassed how bad i am compared to you! i'm terrible at all this measuring let my impatience rush me. i'll try to keep using this thread as a reference but please give me advice anytime! 

 

Also remind me to copy your GOOP bond, love the idea and i'm sure i'll need it.

Edited by Comfy Turtle
  • Like 1
Posted

Wow, I read this update from beginning to end today as I have been scouring forums to read anything about ATA kits (I am currently on the wait list) but started work on my ATA helmet today. This was a great read. I felt like I was hanging in a garage listening to two best friends building armor, having a few drinks and eating some pizza. So awesome. Do you have a thread on your helmet and the electronics/fan system in place?<br><br>

Thanks again!

Posted (edited)

Wow! I haven't been watching this thread for a while. I have been trooping my armor almost two-three times a month since i finished it. Thank you all for the kind words. My best advice is to work slow. Read everything here on white armor. Don't use scissors to cut. Use an exacto knife to score and then snap. Work just outside your final line and sand down to your final line.

 

Good luck!

 

 

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Edited by russellr2d2
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