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Posted (edited)

Make sure your armor is wiped down with a baby wipe or anti bacterial wipe, then completely dry before storing in plastic bag. Plastic bags make great incubator's for the bacteria that comes off in sweat. Bacteria + ABS/PVC + Incubator = Mold/Mildew :blink:

 

Will do!    Waxed, and cleaned the entire armor. Let it stay dry overnight and this evening I packed everything into a new duffel bag I finally got off ebay.  

 

Its huge!!   48" x 20" almost too big to carry around but OK.  A big plastic bin will not go into my tiny Ford Fiesta.

 

My entire armor kit fits, even my helmet in a helmet bag and my boots in their original box.  My blaster gets wrapped up in a thick towel.

I added the rubber badge.  kinda of crappy shoulder and carry straps though, but only $30 !  Free shipping-ebay.

 

I think a sheet of foam core or thin wood to keep the middle from sagging while I carry it may be in order. To give it a firm floor inside.

 

IMG_5391_zpsd2pj3xcn.jpg

Edited by russellr2d2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

HEAT BENDING AGAIN...

 

 

I have never liked how the fronts of the butt plate splay out away from the hips.  One of those things that bugs me looking at my armor.

 

Here is a big enlargement of the offending flap.  It just looks ill-fitting to me.

 

1609487e-6379-4041-9fea-098e7630e155_zps

 

 

So out comes my 8qrt pot.  NOT BOILING WATER!    Just very hot about to start steaming is enough.  It makes the plastic too hot to handle but the water is not boiling hot.

Others have melted their armor with this hot water bending idea.  Beeeee careful!

 

IMG_5435_zpstjcjv11z.jpg

 

 

 

To prepare the butt plate I tapped the two ends together way tighter than I wanted.  The plastic will only take part of the bend and bounce back.

I want the two flap ends to push against my hips while wearing it and not be splayed out as in the photo above.

 

IMG_5431_zpsolbpongs.jpg

 

 

 

Into the very hot water!   I leave it in for about 5 seconds is all.  Then run over to the sink and run cold water over it while bending in each side at the very ends of the flaps.

I want it to really curve in at the ends and hug my hips.

 

IMG_5440_zpsjyy8otrb.jpg

 

 

Here is the "after" shot.  A slight kink in the return edge shows where I really bent it over.

 

IMG_5443_zpsj1b0q4hr.jpg

 

 

 

 

Now the measurement is just about 13.5""    When new it was much more.

 

IMG_5442_zpswohxx5ok.jpg

 

 

I tried to open up the bottom of my right thigh too but, I was not very successful.  It is too thick down here.

I may have gotten just a little more of an opening.  I wanted to do this because it is so hard to get the boot into the bottom of the shin.

The shin is way too tight.

 

IMG_5436_zps81uzak7t.jpg

 

 

 

 

I didn't make a before measurement but I think it's maybe 1/4" wider now.

I heated just the bottom flaps for about 10sec at a time and pulled the flaps apart to try to bend the very ends

to make a wider ankle opening.  This should make it easier to stuff my boot up inside the bottom of the shin.

The left shin is very wide compared to this one and not trouble.

 

 

 IMG_5434_zps8kylq2vx.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So once you get approved you just resubmit the same pics for Centurion :)

 

Plus add detailed pics of the ab to kidney rivets, 22mm notch in kidney, sniper knee, thigh ammo belt and forearm no return edge, if not included already.

Posted (edited)

I gots one of deez !

 

 

SHINY !

 

UUUU ! and my name over there on the left of this page has an Expert Infantry thingy on it too....

You get all kinds of goodies in this club!

 

20017-eib_zpssrnsng8i.png

Edited by russellr2d2
  • Like 2
Posted

Better print that sucker out and have it framed! You deserve it! And I still think this thread deserves a sticky. 

 

Agreed. Excellent ATA build thread 

Posted (edited)

Thank you sirs! post-20327-143744407908_thumb.jpg

 

Certificate printed and framed.

 

Got the badge and rocker for my shirt today. Beautiful embroidery.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by russellr2d2
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Not finished yet ! I am digging back into it to improve some things.

 

After a couple troops I have some issue with my webbing hinge on the left side. Ordering new split rivets and getting ready to replace it with a flexible rubber sheet. I'll post another photo thread on this. It should work out well to hold the AB and kidney plates together . The webbing used now is pulling away from around the rivets and allows misalignment.

Edited by russellr2d2
Posted

I don't think MEPD has nifty looking patches or give out certifications so now I'm jealous for sure! I told my wife the other day that after TFA comes out I'd like to do the new Tie pilot and she gave me a look  :angry:. I'm interested to see your modification. I put elastic for my left side between the split rivets

Posted

I don't think MEPD has nifty looking patches or give out certifications so now I'm jealous for sure! I told my wife the other day that after TFA comes out I'd like to do the new Tie pilot and she gave me a look  :angry:. I'm interested to see your modification. I put elastic for my left side between the split rivets

 

The MEPD does have patches "Deployed and SWAT", and it does give out cert but only the "Deployed" level  

Posted

Question:

 

Why do people attach the bell snaps way up high as seen in this photo by "Barcode" for his centurion application (hope you do not mind me referencing your photo, thank you).

 

I have seen many photos like this where the bell snap is wayyyyyyy up into the bell.    Why not down near the bottom edge?   

 

211_zpsvgznwh3f.jpg

 

 

I just finally saw this... hahahaha. That was a rookie mistake that I never corrected...   :dance:

Posted

Thanks Barcode!

 

I have seen it on many threads...thats why I was curious about the position.

I thought there was some physics reason or something.

Posted (edited)

A BIG FIX!

 

I was noticing how my left side hinge was opening up at the bottom and generally becoming wider and wider. I wanted to make a better connection here to clean things up.

 

IMG_5608_zps6uptsxeu.jpg

 

 

 

Opening up split rivets is hard! You need to get under the tang and lift it up.

 

IMG_5645_zpseiq2d7vq.jpg

 

 

 

Then you can start squeezing with pliers and working away at em'. One had to be cut off because it

would not bend the way I wanted.

 

IMG_5646_zpsd6fc8uu8.jpg

 

 

 

Here is the webbing hinge. The holes have become elongated allowing the parts to open up and be crooked.

 

IMG_5651_zpsgcuclzpw.jpg

 

 

 

 

This is what I want to replace the fabric hinge with. This is a sheet of rubber I stole from the bottom drawer of my tool chest.

 

I think the ribbed design will be perfect for bending in only one direction.

 

IMG_5653_zpsdm2jvdpa.jpg

 

 

 

Flexible in the right direction and the holes will stay round.

 

IMG_5654_zps6zrz4aob.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

The other side .

 

IMG_5655_zpsmkq5xmkw.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

I like to add plastic plates to cover the rubber. They are glued to the rubber. E6000 is perfect.

 

IMG_5656_zps3nmk9sso.jpg

 

 

 

 

The finished hinge. Tight and straight in line. New rivets put in and painted white.

Order your rivets before starting this.

 

I will troop with this for a while and report back on how it is working.

 

IMG_5657_zpsjq9dxwvd.jpg

Edited by russellr2d2
Posted

A BIG FIX!

 

I was noticing how my left side hinge was opening up at the bottom and generally becoming wider and wider. I wanted to make a better connection here to clean things up.

 

Opening up split rivets is hard! You need to get under the tang and lift it up.

 

Then you can start squeezing with pliers and working away at em'. One had to be cut off because it

would not bend the way I wanted.

 

Here is the webbing hinge. The holes have become elongated allowing the parts to open up and be crooked.

 

This is what I want to replace the fabric hinge with. This is a sheet of rubber I stole from the bottom drawer of my tool chest.

 

I think the ribbed design will be perfect for bending in only one direction.

 

Flexible in the right direction and the holes will stay round.

 

The other side .

 

I like to add plastic plates to cover the rubber. They are glued to the rubber. E6000 is perfect.

 

The finished hinge. Tight and straight in line. New rivets put in and painted white.

Order your rivets before starting this.

 

I will troop with this for a while and report back on how it is working.

 

 

Suggestion? Repair the area, submit for Cent, get approved, forget about the area. It doesn't matter what material you use, in time it will relax and stretch creating a gap only you will notice.  ;)

 

Get approved, enjoy life.  :jc_doublethumbup:

  • Like 1
Posted

Russell, maybe you should consider doing a sandy next and go SWAT. I would be extremely interested to see your OCD when it comes to weathering lol. 

 

ah hahahahahahahahahahaha, that's funny hahahahahahaha. You said OCD and weathering in the same sentence. :laugh1:

 

He'd be bald in a week.  :blink:

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