Chopped up Sterling project = E-11 Blaster

[kev011]

Looking good, Keven!

Fond memories of my build.  I almost didn't want to paint it since the raw steel looked so good...

I bought two more Sterling parts sets for possible future "for sale" builds - I just need to figure out a really good way to deactivate them.

Thinking about milling out the firing pin end of the bolt, then welding in a cross pin at the rear so the bolt can't be removed/changed.

I hate to prevent full disassembly with the cross pin, but it ENSURES the weapon can NEVER be fired and won't be visible from the outside.

 One thing you could do is completely drill through the firing pin area, like a 3/8" hole. I guess that's the same as you're saying too. That wouldn't effect the look but would certainly stop you from ever firing again. That would be a lot of work though… A plug in the barrel would be another option but then you loose the option to put a light down the barrel.

 

Just had another thought: You could not cut out the mag well. This would keep anything from entering the chamber. The magazine would need to be moded as well so it still stops and stays in place. That would be good in conjunction with milling out the bolt.

 

 

 I'll keep thinking about it. 

Edited December 22, 2014 by kev011

[kev011]

I want to send you my finished metal for that paint job you did! I keep looking back at your thread. I also need to start finding parts for the power cylinders. Anyone got a good builder thread on that one? I've seen the super nice ones for sale but I think I'd rather keep this project as 'home grown' as I can

[usaeatt2]

I want to send you my finished metal for that paint job you did! I keep looking back at your thread. I also need to start finding parts for the power cylinders. Anyone got a good builder thread on that one? I've seen the super nice ones for sale but I think I'd rather keep this project as 'home grown' as I can

 

Power cylinder build:

Skip the first several posts...I found a better way to do it later in the thread.

Then I found glass maxi fuses - the metal end caps are EXACTLY what you need.

By the end, I've got brass replicas that are extremely close to Andy's.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26634-e11-power-cylinder-build/?p=336615

 

Andy Resin (left), Aaron Brass (center), Andy Metal (right)

[kev011]

Power cylinder build:

Skip the first several posts...I found a better way to do it later in the thread.

Then I found glass maxi fuses - the metal end caps are EXACTLY what you need.

By the end, I've got brass replicas that are extremely close to Andy's.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26634-e11-power-cylinder-build/?p=336615

 

Andy Resin (left), Aaron Brass (center), Andy Metal (right)

Wow! The detail is making my head hurt! You'd mentioned that the auto parts store had the right stuff, but I didn't see what it was? Maybe I missed that in the thread. Was it brake line or something?

 

Small pieces are always the hardest. Andy's price tag isn't looking nearly as bad. Yours is spot on and beautiful too!

Edited December 23, 2014 by kev011

[usaeatt2]

Thanks for your compliments! 

 

I've shared many emails with Andy and I can assure you, for the amount of precision work, his price is a BARGIN.

If I were to make and sell these at normal shop rates, I would have to charge almost double Andy's price just to break even.

I own Andy's metal set #50 and I jumped on his "special edition" cylinders.  I can make them, but it's cheaper for me to buy them.

PLUS, Andy's cylinders come with REAL 'Metalmite' capacitors in the center.  There's a LIMITED number of those left in the world...I've searched.

As you make more, you discover little shortcuts and operation efficiency improves, but there's still no getting around the accuracy involved.

I drew up the base plates in Autocad and got a quote for water jetting, but I'd have to order more than 100 to make the price even close to reasonable.

That means these will likely always be a hand-made, one-at-a-time item.

 

EDIT:  One more thing to consider that I just noticed this morning - Andy is running out of vintage, REAL capacitors.

As posted in his "Screen Accurate Power Cylinders" thread:

    Anyone who is following this thread & hopes to buy a set one day but is putting it off please note:

    As of 9th December 2014 I only have enough vintage capacitors to make 9 more sets of Power Cylinders.

    I search for them literally every day but they're very rare and hard to find.

    When I run out of them I'll still make Power Cylinders with my hand-made capacitors (which are extremely accurate) but nothing beats knowing that your

    Power Cylinders contain authentic vintage capacitors!

 

Original posting:  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24179-screen-accurate-e11-power-cylinders/?p=374839

 

Main power cylinder tubes are 3/8" diameter.  I tried aluminum, steel, brass and stainless.

Steel is heavy, aluminum doesn't solder well and stainless is hard on tools.  The brass was a pleasure to work after all the others.

 

The capacitor tubes are 5mm diameter (if I remember correctly).

I picked up that tubing directly from K&S Metals (lucky they're in Chicago) since none of the local dealers carry metric.

I could have ordered it and had it shipped, but I wanted it that day...

 

Silver solder was left over from the Sterling assembly.

 

The caps from the following fuses are exactly 3/8" diameter...just a little too tall, but they can be carefully filed or sanded down.

Then you have to remove the embossed lettering - I checked all the packages in the store; some of the embossing is deep, some is shallow.

I buy the ones with the lightest possible embossing to make removing it easier.  I still buy a set of these every time I'm at the auto parts store.

BTW, Radio Shack carries these fuses too.  They come in many different ratings 30A, 40A, 50A & 60A.  They all have the same size caps.

I disassembled them with a propane torch, but the flame is WAY too big.  Later, I bought a butane pencil torch and that works MUCH better.

Edited December 23, 2014 by usaeatt2

[kev011]

 

I got my pieces all back together with a big thanks to my buddy.

 

 

 

 

There's going to be a lot of touch up areas I can already tell, but it is what it is. Biggest ordeal will be smoothing back down the receiver butt cap sleeve as it "expanded" some from the heat and the silver solder. it also has some solder in the threads of those hook shapes that is going to take a lot of time and effort to remove.  I can't really complain as I pulled in a favor for this so the price was right and honestly my best effort may not have even come close to this, but I'd hoped for less work than what I'm in for. 

 

 

Thanks for your compliments! 

 

I've shared many emails with Andy and I can assure you, for the amount of precision work, his price is a BARGIN.

If I were to make and sell these at normal shop rates, I would have to charge almost double Andy's price just to break even.

I own Andy's metal set #50 and I jumped on his "special edition" cylinders.  I can make them, but it's cheaper for me to buy them.

PLUS, Andy's cylinders come with REAL 'Metalmite' capacitors in the center.  There's a LIMITED number of those left in the world...I've searched.

As you make more, you discover little shortcuts and operation efficiency improves, but there's still no getting around the accuracy involved.

I drew up the base plates in Autocad and got a quote for water jetting, but I'd have to order more than 100 to make the price even close to reasonable.

That means these will likely always be a hand-made, one-at-a-time item.

 

EDIT:  One more thing to consider that I just noticed this morning - Andy is running out of vintage, REAL capacitors.

As posted in his "Screen Accurate Power Cylinders" thread:

    Anyone who is following this thread & hopes to buy a set one day but is putting it off please note:

    As of 9th December 2014 I only have enough vintage capacitors to make 9 more sets of Power Cylinders.

    I search for them literally every day but they're very rare and hard to find.

    When I run out of them I'll still make Power Cylinders with my hand-made capacitors (which are extremely accurate) but nothing beats knowing that your

    Power Cylinders contain authentic vintage capacitors!

 

Original posting:  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24179-screen-accurate-e11-power-cylinders/?p=374839

 

Main power cylinder tubes are 3/8" diameter.  I tried aluminum, steel, brass and stainless.

Steel is heavy, aluminum doesn't solder well and stainless is hard on tools.  The brass was a pleasure to work after all the others.

 

The capacitor tubes are 5mm diameter (if I remember correctly).

I picked up that tubing directly from K&S Metals (lucky they're in Chicago) since none of the local dealers carry metric.

I could have ordered it and had it shipped, but I wanted it that day...

 

Silver solder was left over from the Sterling assembly.

 

The caps from the following fuses are exactly 3/8" diameter...just a little too tall, but they can be carefully filed or sanded down.

Then you have to remove the embossed lettering - I checked all the packages in the store; some of the embossing is deep, some is shallow.

I buy the ones with the lightest possible embossing to make removing it easier.  I still buy a set of these every time I'm at the auto parts store.

BTW, Radio Shack carries these fuses too.  They come in many different ratings 30A, 40A, 50A & 60A.  They all have the same size caps.

I disassembled them with a propane torch, but the flame is WAY too big.  Later, I bought a butane pencil torch and that works MUCH better.

 

 

Thanks again, Aaron on all the tips on this! I'll see how kind Santa will be to me this year and try and trade my coal lumps for power cylinders!

Edited December 23, 2014 by kev011

[kev011]

Happy Holidays all! In some quiet hours I've found a few minutes here and there to head out to Santa's workshop to clean up the blaster.

 

When I got the fresh soldered parts back I found that all the work I'd put into making the new receiver cap flange now didn't fit.

 

 

 

The magazine also didn't want to go in, but after a lot of filing and careful prep, both fit on very nicely now!

 

 

The stock folds out and latches nicely too. I was a little worried about this part.

 

 

I put it all back together with the Sterling parts first to make sure it all fit. I'm still debating on my aluminum bolt and what I want to do with that. It will certainly make it lighter!

 

 

I'm also looking into some easier paint options. I'm leaning towards the two part rattle can (in a can) tech of Duracoat. It's already designed for firearms and apparently holds up well. 

 

In the meanwhile I'm waiting on my t-strips and probably start looking at some reference for the scope rail. It's getting exciting now!

 

[gazmosis[501st]]

Looks gorgeous!!!! Can't wait to see her all painted up!

[kev011]

EDIT: I don't get why some of these photos are showing up, upside down! They look correct in my photo editor and when I post them to Flickr… sorry.

 

90% of the time, I think and plan ahead. For that 10% left of things I don't think of or plot for, it eats 50% of the total build time.

 

Case in point: Scope Rail:

Because there are so many threads on how to build these guys, I'm not going to go over again and again how to make it. In one part you just need to build it to the specs of your blaster as they all are going to vary from one to the next. I started off with exact dimensions of another post and found out I was short, so this was #2.

 

Mounting the scope can be a little tricky as everyones scope, either real or resin is going to vary a certain degree. Above is my trick to this. I placed my scope on my scanner and just zapped it so I got as accurate dimensions as possible. Notice that the forward hole has been retapped so it's larger. What I did is traced the outlines of the scope and made a mirror image so I could place it on the scope rail to line up all the holes.

 

I had to print three times to get everything right. After I was happy with the alignment of things, I used some of my son's paste to stick it down roughly in the middle of the scope rail which seems to look correct on everything I've seen.

 

I also put a piece of clear tape over the rail as well to help it stick down.

 

Drilling holes is pretty straight forward so no need to over explain that process. I did need to retap the one hole as it was stripped. So in the end I stepped them both up to 1/4" - 20.  my scope also had a set screw that stuck out and hit the scope rail so I ended up running the screw through the rail as well.

 

So what I mentioned way back when about saving myself time and not drilling out all the holes on the receiver tube, well, I missed one… I guess I got confused with different folks builds on where the scope attached at the front and where the T-track also came into play. Some folks put them both through the same hole while others use two different holes. The way I designed mine in my head they'd be in the same hole… but in reality, I needed one more hole.

 

So I completely dissembled the blaster (again) and had to drill one more hole ahead of the scope rail hole. What a waste of time! 

 

For the rear, I tapped the site hole with a 10-32. It seems to work well, I guess you could also do a 10-24 but I didn't have that on hand. So with that treaded up and an old fillster screw from a carburetor I had sitting around, I put it together. (Note: this isn't tightened down, it's just sitting in the hole.)

 

I still need one more screw from the hardware store for the scope itself, but it looks good from where I'm at.

 

 

Edited December 27, 2014 by kev011

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Looking fantastic Kev. What thickness is your scope rail? It is Aluminium?

[kev011]

Looking fantastic Kev. What thickness is your scope rail? It is Aluminium?

That's 16 gauge so roughly 1/16" thick by 3/4" wide and yes, aluminum, though I may remake it from steel as I know those two don't play well together over time. I guess I'll also have that issue with the brass and steel too though.

[usaeatt2]

As long as you're not running electricity through your E-11, you won't have electrolysis issues between dissimilar metals.  Aluminum/steel against brass is fine for a display prop. 

I made rails from both 1/16" aluminum and steel, but used the steel rail because it was stiffer than the aluminum rail.

[kev011]

It's been a little while but I didn't have too much to do until the t-track showed up. I got my package from Roy which luckily all the tracks made it since the package was opened and simply stapled shut on one end… scary I almost lost it!

 

 

The first step was to drill a 1/2" hole in my scrap wood to be able to make the first sided bend. The scrap wood was about 3/4" thick and knowing I would have some to trim I felt it was okay to use this depth for the first bend. I bent all 6

 

 

Bend 1

 

 

Like others have mentioned, this stuff heats up FAST!!! the thing I didn't think about was stretching and as you can see I ended up with different lengths. All the ends needed to be trimmed so it wasn't a big deal, but just thought I'd mention it since it happened to me.

 

 

I didn't drill my holes up to 1/2". I think I topped out at 3/8" so would have a tighter hole. (that's what she… nevermind)

So I had a bit more shaping to do.

 

 

I started with the holes above the bayonet lug as they are a longer set to go between, and perhaps the least visible.

 

 

Then I jumped to the opposite side to do the other lower. The tape on these register with the sets of holes I wrote on the receiver tube so I didn't make the same one twice.

 

 

One by one I just  heated up the opposite end after cutting it down close to length I needed and making the same shape in the track so it would fit my receiver holes. This went really quick!

 

 

I worked side to side and ended up on top as I was hoping to have my technique down for the most visible fin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now I just need to find a good way to mount my counter. Mine being an all plastic version, I'm a little nervous about just driving screws into it and it will hold. I know the originals were glued and that's why they rarely show up on screen. With a 5 year old who can't wait to play with this gently, I need a solid way that won't just break it. Suggestions?

[usaeatt2]

Spectacular job with the Roy track.  Great stuff at a fair price!

 

Have you considered making a one-piece counter/scope rail?  Those look cleaner to me.

Otherwise, I would just make an "L" shaped bracket like others have done to mount the scope.

It's been awhile since I read your whole thread - do you have a real counter or a resin counter?

If it's real, make your bracket so you can run bolts and nuts through the metal frame.

If it's resin, I would use screws with big threads - like the smallest lag screw you can find.

Maybe smear some E-6000 between the counter and the bracket as insurance.

 

Your 5 year old will have some muscles playing with this...mine is well over 10 pounds, closer to 15.

[kev011]

Spectacular job with the Roy track.  Great stuff at a fair price!

 

Have you considered making a one-piece counter/scope rail?  Those look cleaner to me.

Otherwise, I would just make an "L" shaped bracket like others have done to mount the scope.

It's been awhile since I read your whole thread - do you have a real counter or a resin counter?

If it's real, make your bracket so you can run bolts and nuts through the metal frame.

If it's resin, I would use screws with big threads - like the smallest lag screw you can find.

Maybe smear some E-6000 between the counter and the bracket as insurance.

 

Your 5 year old will have some muscles playing with this...mine is well over 10 pounds, closer to 15.

 

This is it, or rather both of them. They are "real" but not the metal frame kind. I believe they are a 404 with the more modern H logo. All the internal parts are plastic. 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

I've made an elongated bracket for mine so I can mount 4 screws in it (as I didn't want to use glue) which should give a bit more security. Will try to put up some pics in my thread later tonight.

[kev011]

I'd love to see some pictures

[I'm Batman[501st]]

My thread is updated now, but here is one pic. 2 big holes are obviously where it bolts through to the scope. 4 little holes to the counter.

 

[kev011]

Thanks Ian for the inspiration. I checked out your current build and it looks like we are pretty close as far as where we are at (though you are a little further along)

 

 

[

 

Since I had the identical leftover brackets from Ikea, I figured I'd just chop mine up for fun to see how this idea worked.

 

 

It actually worked out pretty nicely!

 

 

And saved me a trip to the hardware store!

 

 

Mine will sit down. I noticed some people have theirs face upward to attach the counter to the bracket. With this ikea treasure, it actually sits just flush with the receiver tube which is nice.

 

 

I haven't attached it yet as I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to do it.

 

 

This is what mine looks like without the outer casing on it. it's a dark acrylic piece with not much to dig a screw into for a meaty bond. This is why I'm a little hesitant to just screw it on. I was thinking about perhaps drilling a hole in the see-through area and maybe trying to fill it with resin or caulk or something that will give me something solid to hold a screw in. It's been so cold here the last few days I've been nervous to go out to the workshop and attempt to drill as I feel it may crack or shatter,

 

Anyone else using on of these they can lend advice on attaching?

 

The other thought is I may (and this is a big maybe) have a lead on a local place here that could possibly have some of these sitting around. I'm hoping to find an older one with the proper logo, but I'll take what I can get even if it has a metal piece to screw into, it would be better than this one I have (I think)

 

What are the Eagle logo Hengstlers going for? What's a fair price on them? This place I'm planning on hitting is has a lot of large scale older machines that they try and sell all together but there are some of a pick and pull drawers/bins/tubs of an industrial equipment and has a lot of older stuff so there's a chance they may have one *fingers crossed*

[kev011]

Well, I had a strike out on finding a hengstler counter locally. In fact, it's a real bummer as the shop that I'd mentioned in the last post completely sold all of their stock at auction; we're talking three warehouses the size of a Home Depot each of floor to ceiling industrial salvage! It's a true bummer as this was a honey hole of industrial equipment with machines dating back to the turn of the century. So with a total bust, I'm going to have to make the counter work that I have.

 

 

 

Since i knew there was a blank space in my counter thanks to the see-through area, it was just a challenge of figuring out what to fill it with. I removed a cover plate a little less gracefully than I'd hope for, but found that the inside area is 3/4"x 3/4" and I dug through my scrap steel and found a piece of square tube of those dimensions. It slides right in place and this will be easy enough to drill and tap and give me a really nice surface to mate with. It will just sandwich the all the plastic parts together in between which I'll likely use some epoxy to hold tight as well. I'm happy because I just want to get everything mocked up as i'll likely make an entirely new. all-in-one scope rail and counter holder out of steel down the road, so I wanted this removable.

 

I know it probably doesn't look like much to most folks here, but this had me puzzled for a while now. I'm pleased.

[Dday[501st]]

Nice catch on the metal housing to go inside. This will ensure there is never any breakage through the plastic of the counter.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Nice work Keven. Not sure why I went up versus down for my bracket, but either way.... Yours looks great. Good work on the Hengstler solution!

[kev011]

Thanks guys! Okay, now that I had the plan, I just needed to make it happen.

 

I bought myself a new tool set to do knurled threaded inserts after discovering them recently. Such a cool item to be able to rivet and have a threaded hole ready to go, all in one!

Though these really didn't need to be added to the square tube, I was a little antsy to try it out so this was a perfect opportunity

The tool allows you to mash/mushroom down, like a rivet and what you are left with is a pre tapped hole ready to go. This did give me a little more bite than what I would have had if I just tapped the 16 gauge tubing. 

 

Because there is nothing in that lower area, this just worked out great. If I decide I still wanted everything to work, it still could and nothing is interfered with as far as the mechanics of the counter.

 

 

Here's the end cap going back on. Basically you just need to line up your holes to the new threaded areas. You're now digging through the inner casing and the outer casing and the counter bracket.

 

 

With a little help of a dremel, all the holes lined up.

 

The screws sandwich all the plastic components of the counter and go through the bracket and hold very securely.

 

With the scope  mounted, the screws fall in a great place that are difficult to detect. I'm going out of my way to shove my phone camera lens down in the nooks to take these pics.

 

The screws are almost invisible from the rear end as it hugs nicely to the receiver tube.

 

 

If I'm not mistaken, the counter is sitting in the agreed upon correct spot? right?!!?

[Dday[501st]]

Looks like you forgot to add in the reset button after reassembling the counter. Either that or you left it out so it wouldn't change your number. Maybe cut it off inside or glue it down so there isn't a blank hole, and it won't reset your number.

 

I think the counter is a little bit too forward, but it's probably not.

 

I will generally assemble the front of the counter equal to the first of the 2 holes/screws in the scope. So I would move it back about 1cm.... BUT that is me and was from one screen used blaster photo. I can 100% guarantee they are not all in the same place and your placement is height aligned which is the most important.

[kev011]

Looks like you forgot to add in the reset button after reassembling the counter. Either that or you left it out so it wouldn't change your number. Maybe cut it off inside or glue it down so there isn't a blank hole, and it won't reset your number.

 

I think the counter is a little bit too forward, but it's probably not.

 

I will generally assemble the front of the counter equal to the first of the 2 holes/screws in the scope. So I would move it back about 1cm.... BUT that is me and was from one screen used blaster photo. I can 100% guarantee they are not all in the same place and your placement is height aligned which is the most important.

 

 I have two counters. One has a reset and the other is more of a lifetime counter with no reset. These were attached to each other. On whatever machine these were on together I think that one allowed for a daily,weekly, monthly total and the other was purely a lifetime. I wanted to experiment with the no reset button version so I didn't mess up.

 

 

I suppose the whole scope could be mounted too far forward. I was attempting to align based first on the where the mag receiver was and then to the scope. I tried to align the face of the scope to the edge of the mag receiver and then the plastic tip (not the metal leads) to the edge of the outer ring of that scope. I've seen a few examples of the end of the counter hanging well over the mag release button, but that just makes it a pain in the butt to use. 

 

For the rear of the counter, I wanted to align the edge with the rear scope mounting point. This also makes it sit pretty nicely front-to-back with the scope. Maybe I'm way off, but I *feels* right to me.

 

For top to bottom, I tried to match the height to the apex of the front of the scope to the apex of the receiver tube.

 

Like I said, I feel like it's pretty balanced, but that's me.