Carbon Fiber E-11 Build

[usaeatt2]

Your work is really too clean for a human being... And about the lip around the holes, you will have to sand a part of the pipe for the bayonet lug area so i guess you can wait until then to take the decision to sand the whole thing or not.

 

I wonder though, how will you handle the rear lock on the pipe for the end cap as the OD isn't the same there?

 

Thanks for your compliments, Germain!  Good point about the bayonet lug area.  For the rear lock, I was thinking of adding a ring of PVC or styrene sheet cut and rolled to the correct shape.

 

It's not just build up of melted CF that would just break off by hand or cutting off with a blade to preserve the weave underneath. I'm actually surprised to see it flake and shred so much. I've worked with carbon fibre a bit (with RC cars) and haven't come across it doing that before? Different type of CF obviously.

 

 

My guess is a DVH kit is in his possession  . Rear end cap and inner bolt works perfectly for 40mm pipe with about 3mm wall.

 

The ridge definitely won't break off by hand.  And shaving it off with a blade would probably work, but I'm not very enthusiastic about doing that on 75 holes...  Since I had all my pilot holes drilled, I just powered through each row of holes with the step bit (pretty quickly).  It's probably my mistake for not letting the bit cool between drilling holes.

 

I do not have a DVH kit yet, but I will likely order one if/when the need arises - it has always been part of the plan.  If for no other reason, then just so I could own one and be familiar with all the DVH parts.  I like the black resin.  For me, the problem with the DVH end cap and inner bolt is the size...it works great for a PVC pipe, but this isn't PVC.  The pipe I'm using is the same size as a real Sterling (38mm OD with a 1.5mm wall).  It's exactly the same size as my steel pipe build.  I would just use a real bolt and cap if I wasn't trying to save weight.  To build up the area for the locking notches, I'm going to have to get creative.  They make telescoping carbon fiber tubes, so it's possible I could find a tube with a 1.5" (38mm) INNER diameter.  I'll have to look around or use PVC/styrene.  In any case, I'll still have to carve out the notches...

Edited November 9, 2014 by usaeatt2

[Daetrin[Admin]]

SHOULD being the operative word here.  I don't know if I can pull it off, but I'll try my best.

Even if not 100%, you'll have gone further than 99% of all troopers, and you'll have something you can call your own. No one gets its perfect the first go, why put pressure on yourself? Create the best first one, learn, and iterate. Part of the fun of building props is learning and creating.

 

Consider: Hyperfirms are not 100% "accurate" because you can't get a folding stock, or that the barrel doesn't have drilled out holes. Yet they are superbly popular because you can drop them all day long and they don't break, and they are otherwise very highly detailed. And, they are the lightest ones around.

[Dday[501st]]

Thanks for your compliments, Germain!  Good point about the bayonet lug area.  For the rear lock, I was thinking of adding a ring of PVC or styrene sheet cut and rolled to the correct shape.

 

 

The ridge definitely won't break off by hand.  And shaving it off with a blade would probably work, but I'm not very enthusiastic about doing that on 75 holes...  Since I had all my pilot holes drilled, I just powered through each row of holes with the step bit (pretty quickly).  It's probably my mistake for not letting the bit cool between drilling holes.

 

I do not have a DVH kit yet, but I will likely order one if/when the need arises - it has always been part of the plan.  If for no other reason, then just so I could own one and be familiar with all the DVH parts.  I like the black resin.  For me, the problem with the DVH end cap and inner bolt is the size...it works great for a PVC pipe, but this isn't PVC.  The pipe I'm using is the same size as a real Sterling (38mm OD with a 1.5mm wall).  It's exactly the same size as my steel pipe build.  I would just use a real bolt and cap if I wasn't trying to save weight.  To build up the area for the locking notches, I'm going to have to get creative.  They make telescoping carbon fiber tubes, so it's possible I could find a tube with a 1.5" (38mm) INNER diameter.  I'll have to look around or use PVC/styrene.  In any case, I'll still have to carve out the notches...

 

Aaron, I can cast you individual parts as needed as well, you don't need to get the full kit.

[usaeatt2]

Even if not 100%, you'll have gone further than 99% of all troopers, and you'll have something you can call your own. No one gets its perfect the first go, why put pressure on yourself? Create the best first one, learn, and iterate. Part of the fun of building props is learning and creating.

Absolutely agreed. Thanks for the inspiration!

 

Aaron, I can cast you individual parts as needed as well, you don't need to get the full kit.

Awesome! I'll be in touch. Thanks for the option!

[usaeatt2]

Thoughts moving forward...

There are tiny little ridges around the edges of most of the holes.  I'm assuming these were caused by the step bit getting hot against the resin while drilling the holes.  I could EASILY knock the ridges down by sanding the outside of the tube.  Something like 400 grit should do the trick.  BUT, if I do that, I'll lose the glossy "carbon fiber" look and likely obscure most of the fiber pattern.  I can't decide whether to do it or not.  I'm going to have to cross this bridge sooner or later, but I was hoping it would be much later...like right before paint.  I think flat black parts would POP against a glossy carbon fiber tube...just wanted to see it.  I guess the holes will be covered by t-tracks, but I'll have to attempt to ignore my OCD until I install the t-tracks...it's gonna bug me.

What do you guys think?

 

Quoting myself...   that's a first...

I was reading more about carbon fiber and found an answer to my own question:

Carbon Fiber Tube Shop says:  "After sanding, tubes may be clear coated to return the shine".

Makes sense.  Now, I wonder with what kind of clarity?  I see a "test tube" (HAHA) in my future...

Edited November 10, 2014 by usaeatt2

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Thanks fold own one and be familiar with all the DVH parts.  I like the black resin.  For me, the problem with the DVH end cap and inner bolt is the size...it works great for a PVC pipe, but this isn't PVC.  The pipe I'm using is the same size as a real Sterling (38mm OD with a 1.5mm wall). 

Sorry bout that. I didn't bother doing the metric conversion from your first post. I'll pay more attention next time

[usaeatt2]

Small update:

 

I finished all the straight cuts in the carbon fiber using a diamond cutoff wheel.

Since I repositioned the tube many times to get the most comfortable cutting angles, I did not use a shop vac.

For these cuts, I wore a half face respirator and safety glasses.

 

I left portions of the template attached for now (just in case I get busy and can't work on this for weeks).

There are also very faint cut lines on the tube from the razor blade, so that should help when positioning and pinning resin parts.

 

Then lots of "fiddly" prep work with resin parts...

 

 

 

 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Bit hard to tell from those pics Aaron, did you tackle the little ridges around the holes yet?

[usaeatt2]

Not yet.  Ridges are still there.  They're REALLY small, but they diminish the sleek, high-tech look I've got in my mind for the finished product.  I'll probably sand the whole tube with 400 grit, then 600 grit once I work up the courage to knock down the gloss on the tube...  and waiting to see how my Roy tracks look over the holes.

 

Can you see them now?

 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Ah yep. Like you said in a previous post, just gotta get past the stage before you put the tracks on. And test your sanding on an offcut obviously.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Stunning craftsmanship on the receiver tube! Looks like it just came off the assembly line. 

[usaeatt2]

Ah yep. Like you said in a previous post, just gotta get past the stage before you put the tracks on. And test your sanding on an offcut obviously.

 

Thanks for likely sparing me some grief, Ian...

I didn't even think to try an offcut, even though I cut a 1/2" wide ring as a "test" cut...I was just going to dive right in with the 400 grit.

 

Sanding tests commencing now...

Edited November 15, 2014 by usaeatt2

[sskunky]

test bits are always the most obvious things that are overlooked........makes sense really....... good luck...:thumbsup

[usaeatt2]

test bits are always the most obvious things that are overlooked........makes sense really....... good luck...:thumbsup

 

Thanks sskunky.  Seems obvious to me in hindsight...

[usaeatt2]

Well, I think my test proved about as good a result as I could have hoped for...

 

Direct from the Carbon Fiber Tube Shop FAQ:

"What are the funny little lines on the tubes?

Those are cello lines that leave a very small imprint in the top layer of resin. These lines are there because of the manufacturing process the tubes go through. Lines are evidence of the extreme pressures the tubes are cured under. Lines are good! The lines can be sanded smooth by removing a few thousandths of an inch from the outer diameter."

 

LOL, I started my testing right by using "Empire approved" sandpaper...  I separated test areas with thin strips of blue masking tape.

 

 

Unsanded surface.  See the "cello" lines running vertically?

 

 

400 grit sanding removed the cello lines, but left a dull surface.  600 grit sanding was a minor improvement, but still left a "satin" surface.

 

 

Just for kicks, I whipped out the Novus #3 and #2 polish.  That was the ticket.  Smooth and clear.  Pretty much EXACTLY what I had in mind!!!

 

 

I see a bunch of sanding in my near future...

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Haha, so if you didn't test it, you would have had the same result anyway. Thought you stuffed it up and tried to fix your stuff up with polish. When you come to think of it 400-600 is still quite course. I use 1000-1200 on a lot of plastic kit building stuff I do.

[usaeatt2]

When you come to think of it 400-600 is still quite course.

 

400 grit lasts for about 30 seconds and then it's closer to 800 grit.  The pile of dust on the bench is probably more silicon carbide than carbon fiber...  Carbon fiber dulls saw blades and drill bits, so why should sandpaper be any different?  In fact, the paper dulls SO fast, I switched to light strokes with 240 grit.  After a few passes, I start to apply pressure and end up with the same result as a pile of 400 grit paper.  If there's anything to be said for this project, it's that I'm going to end up with a bunch of new tools and consumables...  that's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it!    I have to say though, I'm quite pleased with the results!

[sskunky]

Get yourself some micro mesh. It comes in 2400, 4000, 8000 & 12000 grit. It's also a cloth so it will wrap round the tube nicely. Works a treat. Then finish with novus. Otherwise your going to get swirly sanding marks all over it only going down to 600.

Of course this is only what I'd do.

You can get it on Amazon although I'm sure you can find it many places over there. I have seen drill attachments which will take the arm ache out of it.

 

Good luck.

[usaeatt2]

Get yourself some micro mesh. It comes in 2400, 4000, 8000 & 12000 grit. It's also a cloth so it will wrap round the tube nicely. Works a treat. Then finish with novus. Otherwise your going to get swirly sanding marks all over it only going down to 600.

Of course this is only what I'd do.

You can get it on Amazon although I'm sure you can find it many places over there. I have seen drill attachments which will take the arm ache out of it.

 

Good luck.

 

Even sanding with 240, I don't see a single swirl mark anywhere.  Maybe it's because the resin is SUPER hard because carbon fiber is made under extreme pressure?

Either way, I like to have options and new tools, so I'll check out Amazon for micro mesh.  Thanks for the suggestion!!!

Edited November 16, 2014 by usaeatt2

[usaeatt2]

OK, the whole tube is sanded...  That was more work than I imagined.
 
I've built two boats and I picked up a sanding trick somewhere along the way - thought I'd share it here.  I kind of got in the habit of doing it anytime I'm sanding.
Simple tip, but somebody may have never seen it.  Basically, you make little sanding pads, but you make them so the sanding grits don't rub against each other (if the grits rub together, they wear down).  When the side you're working with wears out, you still have three fresh sides...just unfold and re-fold to expose a fresh surface.

 

To make them, start with your sandpaper, fold in half twice, unfold and rip or cut only ONE of the four fold lines.  Then re-fold so none of the grit faces touch.  Here's a picture progression of making a "long lasting" sanding pad:
 

 
And here's the tube completely sanded! 
 

 
Wanna see something cool?

I guess this shouldn't have been a big surprise given that this tube is the same size as my steel tube, but it was still a cool moment for me...
Real Sterling parts fit in the carbon fiber tube PERFECTLY.
 

 

 
Fitting real parts allowed me to verify my machine work was correct.  Check the fit on the charging handle (I was stoked)!!!
 

 
Most Doopy parts are ready to go.  Waiting on DVH parts, hardware and t-track.

Maybe I'll start grinding out the magazine housing for Steve's resin magazine next...
 
Building tunes:

"Jurassic Shift" literally 'shifts' like 4 times - it's like 4 different songs tied together!  Great instrumental music for mundane work (like sanding):
 

http://youtu.be/lzNPlQjL13A

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Awesome work Aaron. Looks awesome. Looks great with some real bits in there.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

Novus polish? ah rubbing compound.  heheeh  no doubt

[sskunky]

Novus polish? ah rubbing compound. heheeh no doubt

Vern, you must have heard of Novus polish? It's a TK standard.

[sskunky]

it comes in 3 grades. It's specificall for plastic.

Edited November 16, 2014 by sskunky

[haui[TK]]

great idea and cool work.

I used a high pressure plastic tube which is used for pools and Whirlpools. It is very hard.

But your's more stable :-)