Dday[501st] Posted January 7, 2015 Report Posted January 7, 2015 Wow Ian, great progress! Looking killer! The counter bracket design is very clever and looks like it will definitely keep that counter in place. I might give the thinner scope rail a try based on your findings. I have a piece of 2mm thick aluminium but it looks chunky. I prefer the look you have with yours. Thanks Brian. Germain's keen eye on Aaron's steel build with the 1/8 - 1/16 rail is what made me definitly go for it. Have a look through his thread and there is a great side by side comparison shot of the two. 2mm would be a good compromise if you do have that. The rails I can easily find here are 20mm x 2mm thick. If I go for the 1.5mm I have to get the full plates and cut the 20mm strips. I've opted to go for the 2mm since it is a good middle ground of easy to find and easy to finish while still looking good. The 3mm is 100% way too thick and looks off in a nice E11 build. 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 7, 2015 Report Posted January 7, 2015 Fully agree, Derrek. That's the reason why I've also chosen the 20mm x 2mm version for my completion sets. Looks nice and is strong enough to hold a resin or a real scope. 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 7, 2015 Author Report Posted January 7, 2015 Spot on guys. I'm sure Aaron won't mind me pinching yet another one of his photos from his Steel Pipe Build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/page-5 The below pic is a great comparison shot for the 2 thicknesses. I probably would have been more confortable with 2.0mm, but that appears to be not available here in Aus, so 1.6mm is fine. Quote
Dday[501st] Posted January 7, 2015 Report Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) Spot on guys. I'm sure Aaron won't mind me pinching yet another one of his photos from his Steel Pipe Build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/page-5 The below pic is a great comparison shot for the 2 thicknesses. I probably would have been more confortable with 2.0mm, but that appears to be not available here in Aus, so 1.6mm is fine. Even with the thinner rail, I don't foresee a problem with the weight for a while. If you do see a problem with sagging, you might add in screws like Aaron has with tall heads. This way instead of the rails sagging down, the bolt heads will help to support it as it bends and interfaces with the tube. Edited January 7, 2015 by Dday 1 Quote
usaeatt2 Posted January 7, 2015 Report Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) Hehe, looks like I'm a little late to the party! Here's an updated photo: I definitely like the thinner rail better. Derrek is right; if you look closely, you can see I added washers under the socket head bolts with the thinner rail. The idea was to stop the rail if it started bowing. The rail didn't bow and my counter is touching the receiver tube, so that provides extra resistance against movement. I didn't like the "chunky" look of the regular socket head bolts, and especially not with the washers. In the end, I replaced those bolts with low-profile socket head bolts. Edited January 7, 2015 by usaeatt2 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 7, 2015 Author Report Posted January 7, 2015 Always room available for late comers! :happy and cheerful birthday: Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) Next up, the simple and fun task of bending t-tracks? Or paint? The T-Tracks: I read your Steel Build thread Aaron, where you made the comment of it being quite soothing and relaxing. Not quite sure about that, but it was quite enjoyable - that is after I got past the "I'm so scared, just had to change my underwear" stage.... I went with Marv's T-Track, mainly because a mate gave me 5 pieces, from an old build, so I only had to buy 1 piece from Marv. Most of my track was waaaay long (for a DLT or something), so I had plenty or room for error. Propped up the heat gun on my table and heat away: This first attempt I did heat it for too long - does not like it and went a bit beyond repair - so I ended up cutting it off and starting again. Having the option to stuff up was nice. After I got it right, I simply inserted one end in the hole of the receiver and marked the centre of the hole for my next bend. Heated and bent over a block of wood at the mark Not sure where the 'accuracy' comes into it, but I didn't like the way the heating effect flared out the ends, like on the left hand track, so I filed/sanded it flush, like on the right hand pic. I much prefer the look now, anyway. And started working around the receiver.... Bought some wire for the spring, so that's the next thing to tackle.... Edited January 9, 2015 by Sith Lord 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 Very nice progress Ian. Are the first two pictures the same? Or do we have to find the 5 differences somewhere? Can you explain, how the tracks are attached to the tube? Any glue or just bent to sit tight? Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) Very nice progress Ian. Are the first two pictures the same? Or do we have to find the 5 differences somewhere? Can you explain, how the tracks are attached to the tube? Any glue or just bent to sit tight? Did you find any differences Tino? LOL, that's a pretty obvious mess up that I normally pick up when proof reading before posting, and again after posting.... Proper pic now posted.... Sorry, I did skip over the actual installation, didn't I? I'm just going to glue them on (hence the rubber band at the moment). The tape is there with the number of track in order written on the back, so I know where they go when I'm ready to glue. On some of the very few threads out there that discuss T-Tracks, they talk about having a bend in the track so it will effectively hold on by itself. I initially did that but then 5-10mm of track was poking through on the inside. Even though you'll only just be able to see one or two of them, I didn't like that so opted to trim them flush. I'll try get a pic of that soon. Cheers Edited January 9, 2015 by Sith Lord 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Posted January 9, 2015 You can't really see much. I guess as it's flush, there isn't anything to see.... I'll put that down as an advantage to using the thicker 3mm pipe. This the side profie of my track. You can see the bend section is only about 3mm long. Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 Thanks for that brilliant explanation! Think I could use these pictures in near future... 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Posted January 9, 2015 Thanks for that brilliant explanation! Think I could use these pictures in near future... Of course. Got something in mind? Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) T Tracks should be tapered into a V shape before bending. and if you have upwards curl you need to TEAR IT OFF and start again. ( yeah, I know. it sounds like I'm ranting.. ) someboobie should do a how to do T Track Tootorial! hehehee! LOL! the upward curl is seen at the end of your T Tracks. This is a very common issue with setting T Track. The key is to sand the ends into a V before bending.. V before B sounds kinda funny right? the key is to taper the end into a V shape before bending. and if you look closely at the real sterlings in the film they are cut in a V shape and bent into the blaster. yes. This is only a rant showing how hard it is to get T Tracks level. I feel your pain! every single blaster I've ever made has caused me to tear off T Tracks!!! Edited January 9, 2015 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 You could potentially heat the curled edge a little and use a nice flat piece of aluminium rail or rules or something to press it flat again. 1 Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 You could potentially heat the curled edge a little and use a nice flat piece of aluminium rail or rules or something to press it flat again. +1 :smiley-sw013: Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Posted January 9, 2015 ( yeah, I know. it sounds like I'm ranting.. ) someboobie should do a how to do T Track Tootorial! hehehee! LOL! It did take me a couple of reads to to work out the Vs and Bs, but I've gotcha now. I didn't think they looked that bad on the blaster, but now that you've bought up what to look out for, I'll have a closer look. Great idea Derrek! Another benefit of using a Aluminium pipe - I'll be able to heat and flatten on the pipe! Know any boobies Vern? As I mentioned, there weren't many examples in the build section that I could find, so a Tootorial would be handy. Know anyone who knows what they're doing? Quote
Dday[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 It did take me a couple of reads to to work out the Vs and Bs, but I've gotcha now. I didn't think they looked that bad on the blaster, but now that you've bought up what to look out for, I'll have a closer look. Great idea Derrek! Another benefit of using a Aluminium pipe - I'll be able to heat and flatten on the pipe! Know any boobies Vern? As I mentioned, there weren't many examples in the build section that I could find, so a Tootorial would be handy. Know anyone who knows what they're doing? When it comes to bending track I think we are all flying by the seat of our pants. It is easy to do it, but hard to do it really right. To me, it seems the only way to absolutely escape the curl is to have the V shape extent out of the hole. This will make the tracks look similar to the MR ones. 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Posted January 9, 2015 Wow. That one really is a long defined V. Quote
Dday[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 Wow. That one really is a long defined V. Yes, which is why I said similar. If I was to do this, the V would 100% not extend so far! Well, you also have to keep in mind the length of the V is defined by the size of the hole with the width of the track base. If you want to keep a nice straight line that is. So it will vary based on if you use Sskunky/Marv (same size) or Roy tracks. Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Posted January 9, 2015 I've just had a look at all my tracks as they're sitting on the blaster - some have quite a defined raise at the bend, some almost nothing. I'll definitely fix them up a bit with a combination of more trimming and/or heating. Thanks all. Quote
kev011 Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 I've just had a look at all my tracks as they're sitting on the blaster - some have quite a defined raise at the bend, some almost nothing. I'll definitely fix them up a bit with a combination of more trimming and/or heating. Thanks all. Having done this just recently, I feel like the trimming may be a better option. I worked with Roy's T-Track which heated up so fast. I reheated a few areas and it's easy to deform them too easily out of the total shape. If you reheat, take your time and watch your pressure! Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 when looking at T Track the movie is the best reference we have, most builds get different T Track results! I have it planned to be the boobie that does a Tootorial! so I nominate myself as the pig. Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Posted January 9, 2015 so I nominate myself as the pig. Seconded! Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 10, 2015 Report Posted January 10, 2015 any time soon? don't wait for it! Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 10, 2015 Author Report Posted January 10, 2015 Nah, no waiting. Straight into it...... Heat Press with an offcut of flat aluminium (failed scope rails are good for something!) Flat And a couple of pics of them back on the blaster 1 Quote
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