DVH Pipe Build with Extras

[usaeatt2]

Merry Christmas, Ian!

 

I did about a week of concentrated prep work and prop building for our annual Christmas party, then holiday travel to visit family.

I got new tools, two Sterling parts sets, 4 magazines and black nomex flight gloves as Christmas gifts, so lots of work coming up!

Stay tuned!

[I'm Batman[501st]]

That's okay Brian & Aaron. I will wait patiently...

 

Gee, not much work ahead of you there Aaron. I've done a little research myself into the parts sets. Not sure how I'll go as even folding stocks are supposedly controlled items not allowed to be imported without proper application and licensing.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

The Hengstler.

 

Unfortunately, I think I received a less the perfect Hengstler with my kit. I wasn't comfortable using it, so I purchased a Doopy Hengstler to use instead. I had grand plans to do the number and window mod that many others have done until I saw the for sale thread of TK-50101 Blue Snaggletooth (Dennis), selling immitation rear halves. I thought it would be really cool to have the numbers able to move, then click the reset button, then move them again. So, some pics

 

The DVH - seemed to have dropped after setting, like how a cake sinks when you take it out of the oven

 

A few comparison shots - DVH, Doopy and Snaggletooth

 

The idea is to use the front half of a resin counter and the rear Snaggletooth one which has a real window, working dials, working reset button, etc. Only thing it doesn't have is the "Hengstler 400" logo. I did contemplate cutting this out of the DVH, but the Snaggletooth one was way to thin to try to cut into it. Oh well.....

 

Like so

 

Dennis also included the little connectors that required drilling out holes here. Jeez, they were tough!

 

...and the little screw that goes under there.

 

Quite a bit of filling little cracks and bubbles on the front half, but not a lot more to say about the rear as everything was already done for me  . I'll get to how I actually mounted the counter when I post on my rail and bracket process.

 

Cheers

[usaeatt2]

NICELY DONE!

Is the rear half a "regular item" that Snaggletooth carries or you just got lucky and he had what you needed?

With a little more detailing and a transformer in the back, this would be really difficult to tell from a real Hengstler! 

Awesome mods happening these days!

[Dday[501st]]

Ian,

 

The first run of kits were not cast by me but a group of kits I got from DVH prior to getting the molds.

 

It looks like the fill hole was not properly filled which creates the crater with the sides reaching up and a depression in the middle.

 

However, all of that aside, if you want a new one let me know. It looks like you are sorted with the front half piece though.

 

On a side note, the Hengstler is a hard shape to cast because of the high number of details. Right now the mold is a 1 part sleeve type mold and I am not really satisfied with it because of the detailing and the bubbles that appear in both the mold and the casting. I'm thinking about doing a 2 part mold for this so that the detailing can be much nicer without a lot of the bubbling.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

NICELY DONE!

Is the rear half a "regular item" that Snaggletooth carries or you just got lucky and he had what you needed?

With a little more detailing and a transformer in the back, this would be really difficult to tell from a real Hengstler! 

Awesome mods happening these days!

Thanks Aaron!

 

Dennis definitely had a few of them. This was his second run http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28550-fs-2-run-resin-counter-conversion-kit-counter-like-hengstler/ . Not sure if they were all sold or if he has more available...

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Ian,

 

The first run of kits were not cast by me but a group of kits I got from DVH prior to getting the molds.

 

It looks like the fill hole was not properly filled which creates the crater with the sides reaching up and a depression in the middle.

 

However, all of that aside, if you want a new one let me know. It looks like you are sorted with the front half piece though.

 

On a side note, the Hengstler is a hard shape to cast because of the high number of details. Right now the mold is a 1 part sleeve type mold and I am not really satisfied with it because of the detailing and the bubbles that appear in both the mold and the casting. I'm thinking about doing a 2 part mold for this so that the detailing can be much nicer without a lot of the bubbling.

No problems at all Derrek. All sorted now! did have a few concerns when I first bought the kit, but Lou was more than helpful in addressing those concerns. I also understand that you are bending over backwards to develop and and improve this kit to new and unprecedented standards, so people should not interpret my thoughts or parts to the current spec Dday DVH. I guess I'm just showing what mods I am doing to the parts and in some situations, why I am required to make those mods.

 

Cheers

Ian

[Dday[501st]]

No problems at all Derrek. All sorted now! did have a few concerns when I first bought the kit, but Lou was more than helpful in addressing those concerns. I also understand that you are bending over backwards to develop and and improve this kit to new and unprecedented standards, so people should not interpret my thoughts or parts to the current spec Dday DVH. I guess I'm just showing what mods I am doing to the parts and in some situations, why I am required to make those mods.

 

Cheers

Ian

 

I didn't think you were taking a jab but posting an honest critique which is perfectly within your rights. It is critiques like this which will help me to better the parts I put out.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

Ok, I think I have it back to front. From this pic (posted by Vern in Gazmosis' thread) it shows the knurling say 3/4 down at the back, but only 1/3 or so down the front, similar to Aaron's pic above. I've even misread Tino pics in his thread as to which was front and back. Looks like I've got some repair work to do, so may aswell hunt down a better knurling tool before I do...

 

I have been building blasters for a long time, and Aaron has basically taken up where I left off! but I sure am Chuffed quite a bit

that my photos crop up just at the right time! that makes me happy!

[usaeatt2]

I have been building blasters for a long time, and Aaron has basically taken up where I left off! but I sure am Chuffed quite a bit

that my photos crop up just at the right time! that makes me happy!

 

I'm pretty chuffed that Vern thinks I could even come close to taking up where he left off!  I've built exactly 1 replica...

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

You made plans that followed my suggestions and have been a light in a dark place for me, and many others. you should be proud of that!

 

I do have to say that the extractor on the bolt might have some differences between a semi-auto bolt and a full auto bolt.

or it might be due to manufacturing upgrades. All my 3 old full auto bolts all look much different than the mods being done:

 

 

See the difference?

 

and the blue snaggletooth hengstler counters are real counters with the front cut off.

 

The texture and color of the bolt is modified by the cosmolene still wonderfully present on my photo parts

 

DO NOT HAVE A TEXTURE OR A BROWN/GREEN BOLT on your blaster... nope!

Edited December 28, 2014 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

 

please drill out the center hole on the pin interface cap

and study the front of the counter as well.

Edited December 28, 2014 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

I supplied the original scope and counter parts for the original DVH kit, and when I received them I was very sad.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

I have been building blasters for a long time, and Aaron has basically taken up where I left off! but I sure am Chuffed quite a bit

that my photos crop up just at the right time! that makes me happy!

 

Your wealth of knowledge is widely known and appreciated Vern, and I'm sure your pictures will be popping up for a long time yet!

 

 

please drill out the center hole on the pin interface cap

and study the front of the counter as well.

 

Ah yes, of course. Didn't think about that. TBH, I didn't spend a lot of time on the front, so I'll look some more to try to improve it. Anything specifically obvious, or just the whole thing in general?

 

I supplied the original scope and counter parts for the original DVH kit, and when I received them I was very sad.

 

Um....yes.....well..... I was as well, and my next post (should be up tonight, Aussie time) will be about the scope and how I decided to tackle that.

 

You made plans that followed my suggestions and have been a light in a dark place for me, and many others. you should be proud of that!

 

I do have to say that the extractor on the bolt might have some differences between a semi-auto bolt and a full auto bolt.

or it might be due to manufacturing upgrades. All my 3 old full auto bolts all look much different than the mods being done:

 

 

See the difference?

 

and the blue snaggletooth hengstler counters are real counters with the front cut off.

 

The texture and color of the bolt is modified by the cosmolene still wonderfully present on my photo parts

 

DO NOT HAVE A TEXTURE OR A BROWN/GREEN BOLT on your blaster... nope!

Another interesting photo Vern! I do wonder if the DVH mold was taken from this style of bolt instead as it is very similar. However I do prefer the other style and mods/details most of us are putting into it.

 

And this was a quote from Dennis about his counter conversions:

 

"Thanks for your interest in my resin counter conversin kit.

 

Yes the cover has non Hengstler 400 engraved because this is not a Hengstler counter. Its a look a like from another manufactor."

 

Definitely no Green bolt going in my blaster!

[Dday[501st]]

I supplied the original scope and counter parts for the original DVH kit, and when I received them I was very sad.

 

 

Vern, can you elaborate on why you were sad when you got the parts from Lou? Do you mean the castings or the originals?

[usaeatt2]

I do have to say that the extractor on the bolt might have some differences between a semi-auto bolt and a full auto bolt.

or it might be due to manufacturing upgrades. All my 3 old full auto bolts all look much different than the mods being done:

 

 

See the difference?

 

A great example of why Vern is the MASTER of blasters...however, I DO have an explanation from my research...

 

Turns out, the full auto bolt used in my steel pipe build was manufactured in 1958 at the FAZAKERLEY plant.

 

The extractor is slightly different - instead of being solid, it has a groove machined through the middle.

 

I also have two STERLING bolts which were manufactured in 1966 and 1972 and they match the photo above perfectly.

 

Since my Fazakerley bolt is very early, perhaps there was a design change to correct or prevent a problem with the grooved extractor?

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Oh, I lost my quotes.... Re-post coming

Edited December 28, 2014 by Sith Lord

[I'm Batman[501st]]

I supplied the original scope and counter parts for the original DVH kit, and when I received them I was very sad.

 

 

Vern, can you elaborate on why you were sad when you got the parts from Lou? Do you mean the castings or the originals?

 

This is what made me sad, so probably Vern too. It looks like the cast has sunk again after coming out of the mold, like I commented on with the counter. You can see below the DVH is quite a bit smaller at the larger end of the scope. It also slopes down quite significantly unlike any other I've seen.

 

 

The other major thing that  was not happy with was the lack of details in the lettering. You can just make out the '38' here, but the rest of the lettering is almost non-existant.

 

 

A couple of other minor flaws, but anyway, I'll post how I addressed these later.

Edited December 28, 2014 by Sith Lord

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

A great example of why Vern is the MASTER of blasters...however, I DO have an explanation from my research...

 

Turns out, the full auto bolt used in my steel pipe build was manufactured in 1958 at the FAZAKERLEY plant.

 

The extractor is slightly different - instead of being solid, it has a groove machined through the middle.

 

I also have two STERLING bolts which were manufactured in 1966 and 1972 and they match the photo above perfectly.

 

Since my Fazakerley bolt is very early, perhaps there was a design change to correct or prevent a problem with the grooved extractor?

 

Because of the history of the firing weapons used in star wars, it's my personal opinion that the solid extractor was most likely a Ministry change of some kind.  There were modifications from the Patchet Sterling, and the Fazkerley Sterling in the folding stock, trigger shape, extractor, and magazine wells, and Mag release catches.  Sterling and Fazkerley had a dispute between them, and there was a legal resolution. The ministry of defense asked for modifications to parts, and to paint finish. So there can be marked differences between sterlings classified as L2A3

 

I personally go with a solid extractor on star wars blasters.

 

Here's some interesting info on blasters and gun dates and shapes.

 

http://bondservnt.wix.com/the-e-11-blaster#!sterling/c14cx

 

here's the website address for computers.

we have a mobile version.

 

http://bondservnt.wix.com/the-e-11-blaster

 

 

 

sections to update:

 

ANH-ROTJ blaster sections.

blaster builds

blaster parts.

 

please post in this thread, links, photos, and whatever you feel would help the project.

we're off to a good start!

 

with your help we'll be perfect@!

 PM ME all blaster fans!

 

let's update this thing!

lot's of little formatting updates, links and photos to add.

 

make sure you have permission to post before adding stuff! (if the data is not yours, put confirmation in the post showing permission)

 

thanks!

Edited December 29, 2014 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

 

 

 

This is what made me sad, so probably Vern too. It looks like the cast has sunk again after coming out of the mold, like I commented on with the counter. You can see below the DVH is quite a bit smaller at the larger end of the scope. It also slopes down quite significantly unlike any other I've seen.

 

 

The other major thing that  was not happy with was the lack of details in the lettering. You can just make out the '38' here, but the rest of the lettering is almost non-existant.

 

 

A couple of other minor flaws, but anyway, I'll post how I addressed these later.

This pretty much sums up my evaluation of the castings.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

The Scope.

 

Referring above posts, I didn't want to use the DVH scope, so thought I'd pick up a Doopy at the same time I ordered the Doopy counter. My ultimate goal was to have a real scope, but finances meant a Doopy with hollowed out centre and clear lenses would have to do. Until I found a M77C scope for sale at a very good price. Well, very good compared to what M38s, M40s and M19s go for! An expert might be able to say more, but the M77C is basically the same as a M38A2.

 

First off was to give it a bath in Oven Cleaner!

 

Which stripped the paint straight off

 

 

The condition of the optics would be described as fair, so I decided to pull it all apart and give it a clean

 

All these specs were inside

 

There were some quite heavy marks on the two crystals/prisms inside, but I got the majority off with good ol' glass cleaner. (Another tip from Master Aaron)

 

The targeting scale was side to side in the middle of the scope, so as Aaron has previously stated he did, I thought why not, may as well try to correct it. After many, many, many attempts to get it sitting vertical I finally had it right. Until I had a real close look and realised the numbers were back to front. I was looking at the reverse side. So out came the middle lens fully and I had to rotate it in its holding bit

 

And then to my many, many, many attempts to get it vertical again. The result is definitely worth it. Unfortunately, my camera does not capture a great shot of it

 

Internally, I'm good. Externally, I need to do something about the shape. You an see here the start of packing in green stuff into the middle section.

 

Bit by bit, and it ends up like

 

It has the little indent on the left hand side (middle picture above), but is missing the number '2' or '3'' that most have. My skills will NOT allow me to make that number, so it's a price to pay, for the price I paid. I have also lost the texture in the middle section so I'll have to consider that when it comes to paint time.

 

Next instalment - the rails and putting the scope and counter on.

 

Thanks for checking in.

Ian

[Dday[501st]]

 

 

 

This is what made me sad, so probably Vern too. It looks like the cast has sunk again after coming out of the mold, like I commented on with the counter. You can see below the DVH is quite a bit smaller at the larger end of the scope. It also slopes down quite significantly unlike any other I've seen.

 

 

The other major thing that  was not happy with was the lack of details in the lettering. You can just make out the '38' here, but the rest of the lettering is almost non-existant.

 

 

A couple of other minor flaws, but anyway, I'll post how I addressed these later.

 

I have noticed this as well in the mold I have that the shape of the sight looks the same. The lettering on my current casting seems to be better, but I did notice the problem with the scope and counter shaping.

 

I think it is caused partly due to a problem in the silicone mold but also I noticed it was made worse when rubber bands are used to hold the mold closed without a stiff backing on the sides. The Rubber bands without the stiff backing cause the mold to compress and can deform the casting.

 

All this doesn't do anything for you guys though. I am working to get my hands on another scope and counter within my local region so I can make a new casting of these parts to fix these problems.

[usaeatt2]

"SPEC"-TACULAR job with the scope, Ian!!!

 

I didn't even go that far with it...taking out the little prisms scared me, so I stopped after the main optics were out.

I know EXACTLY what you went through to straighten out the range finder - frustrating work, but well worth the reward!

You might be able to paint the center section with texture paint, let it dry, feather the edges, then paint the whole thing to hide the green stuff...

If you want to take it that far...even without doing that, you might not be able to tell with a couple good coats of paint.

 

Good stuff!!!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Wow! Was away a few days just to see, this thread has meanwhile exploded

 

Very happy to finally see somebody using the counter conversion kit from Dennis (Blue Snaggletooth) . A really nice offer and I was also interested in this kit...

 

Just one thing about your photos, Ian. Was a bit unsure, as nobody already wrote a comment about that, but I think the front (or rear half) is upside down on these two pictures. Hope you didn't alreay glue this

 

(...) 

 

 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Good pick up Tino. I missed that, but it was only just sitting together for the photo. No glue yet. In fact, no glue ever - more on that to come.... It is a fantastic item. A shame it they couldn't write the 'Hengslter 400' on it though