DVH Pipe Build with Extras

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Germain. Thanks for your explanation and diagram. As I thought....

 

 

 

The semi-circle notch on the end cap is also interesting - the notch isn't necessary, but it helps when working the folding stock.

The clip lifts far enough that nothing prevents end cap movement, so why even take the time to machine the end cap notch?

Here's why: If you're going to open the folding stock (which can be complicated and requires two hands), the end cap notch can assist.

After I realized it, this is how I open the folding stock:

Release the stock handle at the front.

Open the folding stock.

Lift the clip and push the end cap forward.

Release the clip and allow the pin to rest in the end cap notch.

Maintain forward pressure on the end cap to hold everything in place (if you let go of the end cap, the spring will push it back to the normal position)

At this point, the end cap is far enough forward to allow the folding stock to drop into the external end cap notches.

Once the folding stock is in place, release the end cap and it snaps back to it's normal position and locks the folding stock in place.

Advantage? You don't have to hold the clip while doing everything else.

ALSO, when the pin is resting in the end cap notch, it prevents the end cap from rotating and accidentally releasing.

 

A LOT of information for a pipe build, but I figure it helps everyone to understand the functions of the Sterling.

Knowing how it was intended to work helps make decisions for a replica build.

 

Vern has critiqued it on almost every Doopy build - most people place the clip too far forward.

Since a resin clip doesn't lift, you don't have any choice but to position it forward IF you want to remove the end cap.

The forward position of a non-functional resin clip allows clearance for the end cap to move forward enough to rotate and release.

 

I plan to carve out the inner portion of my resin clip, remake the outer portion with styrene sheet and install a pivot pin and small spring.

This will solve all kinds of problems and provide one more functional feature on a resin build...

 

Thanks Aaron. As you say, in my case, if I don't have a functioning clip, it will need to be a bit further forward to allow the functioning of the end cap/internal spring. Hopefully Vern won't be too hard on me. OR, I do what your suggesting, Brian is attempting and Truimphmark apparently has already done and make the clip functioning?

 

Looking at my end lug, the bit that joins the pipe was definitely more than 40mm, but uneven, hence why I ground it down, but the rear section where the notches are, is only 40mm. That's probably where I got confused. The end cap does still function but perhaps is a little loose. I'll consider putting a thin strip of abs around the lug to pack it out again.

 

Thanks for everyones input.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Dday's new bolts. Drilled out the holes to 5.5mm. Tried 5.0mm but they squeaked and felt a little to tight for my liking. When Derrek gets his new ones, these will just unscrew out. Easy!

 

I did have one blow out. Just on the left corner there. Not sure what happened, other than I should hav spent that extra 2 minutes and used the drill press. Oh well, green stuff will fix that.

 

Glued some real bits on! Epoxy and pins again

 

I've glued the end lug on aswell. I'll have a closer look at the sizing after it sets and I grind off those pins.

 

Ooohh, and I bought some goodies. We should all get together and have a mini-saw-off!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Cool. You bought the saw! Hope you find as useful and worth it as I have so far. Looks like you have a mini Tamiya tool empire started.

Great progress adding the hex bolts and gluing on the mag housing & end lug.

[Barcode]

Great build so far. I just received my ANH w/ aluminum pipe kit from Derrek and I must say, after looking this over Im WAY overwhelmed and wish I would've payed for an assembly. =[ Its going to look like poo if I do it. 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

thanks Brian. Yep, little progress here and there. Bolt mods to come next....

 

Great build so far. I just received my ANH w/ aluminum pipe kit from Derrek and I must say, after looking this over Im WAY overwhelmed and wish I would've payed for an assembly. =[ Its going to look like poo if I do it.

 

Cheers Benjamin. You'll be right. Slow and steady. All depends what features you want. My build will not be any good for trooping. Too heavy to start with.... Check out Derreks own build of his kit for a (meant in the nicest ways) no frills build. He has shown how great a kit can look without all these fancy moving selector switches and folding stocks.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28139-dvh-v25-build-dday/

 

Start your own build thread and don't hesitate to ask as many questions as you need. As you can see, there's plenty of great builders mre than prepared to help out.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

Aaron makes a great point about the positioning of the end cap lug and the positioning of the end cap lock

.my point has usually been that there are 2 positions the end cap can be in.

and since most builders put the end cap in a tighter position it can result in improper location on some builds.

[Dday[501st]]

Great build so far. I just received my ANH w/ aluminum pipe kit from Derrek and I must say, after looking this over Im WAY overwhelmed and wish I would've payed for an assembly. =[ Its going to look like poo if I do it. 

 

Ben, just like Ian said slow and steady.  The link to my build of the kit is in my signature. There is some extra details in there but the steps are pretty straight forward.

 

It really can seem overwhelming to start but once you open the packaged and lay everything out and study the pieces it really is pretty straight forward.

 

Everyone here is quick to help out an we as a community will make sure you get all the help you need to get it done.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Aaron makes a great point about the positioning of the end cap lug and the positioning of the end cap lock

.my point has usually been that there are 2 positions the end cap can be in.

and since most builders put the end cap in a tighter position it can result in improper location on some builds.

 

The video showing exactly how it works is really good. I'm wondering if most builders do put it too far forward, just so they can get the end cap off. Unfortunately I think that's what I'm going to have to do... (unless someone has a real clip they want to give me  )

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Next up - the bolt. The DVH mold is quite good, especially when you compare it to other makers out there. (Pic below borrowed for the DVH for sale thread)

 

No idea what these bits are called, so I'll say I drilled out the 'little' bit

 

 

Then carved out the 'long' bit

 

Then found something of about the right diameter - a 3" nail in this case. Cut it to size and glued it in place

 

Close?

[usaeatt2]

Looks damn GOOD to me!  Nice work, Ian!

 

Maybe try some exacto blade scoring along the edges of the extractor to make it look like a separate part?

 

That bolt is awesome!  Serial numbers, extractor pin...even the sear notch at the bottom!  Can't wait to get mine!

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Looks damn GOOD to me!  Nice work, Ian!

 

Maybe try some exacto blade scoring along the edges of the extractor to make it look like a separate part?

 

That bolt is awesome!  Serial numbers, extractor pin...even the sear notch at the bottom!  Can't wait to get mine!

 

Thanks mate. The 'extractor' - is that what I call the 'long' bit? I did do a little bit of scoring, tidying up the edges, but yes, I could definitely do some more. I'll have a close look at your pictures in the reference threads to look for some painting tips too.

[usaeatt2]

Since your bolt is the onyx color resin, it might be cool to try silver "rub and buff" to get a metallic look instead of paint.

[Barcode]

I guess I'll give it a go. 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Since your bolt is the onyx color resin, it might be cool to try silver "rub and buff" to get a metallic look instead of paint.

I haven't heard of that. I'll go check it out. Is that just available from the paint action of hardware stores?

[usaeatt2]

You can get Rub N Buff at craft stores.  It's a paste with really fine metal powder in it.

I like it because it's easier than paint and can make plastic parts look like real metal.

You can even buff it to a shine if you want.  I bought some at "Michael's" a long time ago.

You'll have it forever - they're NOT kidding when they say a little goes a long way.

WARNING: I saw a bunch of pin holes in the resin - the Rub N Buff will get in those and never come out.

You'll have to fill all the pinholes FIRST.

 

Here's a short video - I like it because it shows Rub N Buff on plastic that was painted black.

MOST importantly, it shows how you can achieve a brushed metal look

I could do without most of the humor (except the R2D2 mug - that made me laugh) and the musical montages are annoying.

But, you get the point.  Just something that came to mind when I saw your bolt.

 

Edited December 7, 2014 by usaeatt2

[I'm Batman[501st]]

I guess it would be a bit of trial and error. Practising until your happy. The helmet looked awesome, but that little test piece didn't seem much more that a bit of dry brushing with silver paint. I'll have a look in the local craft store though. What applications have you used it in Aaron?

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Nothing too exciting here, but it is exciting to get some major parts glued on. Did the old pin and epoxy trick again

 

 

I also epoxy and pinned the magazine housing, then when I put the grip on and held the gun, I went "Oh F*&^$%" The magazine housing wasn't straight. Others may not have noticed but I certainly could. Now I will vouch for the strength of the epoxy. I dremelled through the epoxy, then the pins. I think I had about 5-10mm of epoxy in the middle and it still wouldn't break off! Finally did get it off, and it's glued and drying again now. Pics of the finished item to come....

[I'm Batman[501st]]

And straight!

 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

The outside diameters aren't suppose to be the same circumference. I'm having hard time finding a decent reference pic from an original Sterling though, i guess we will have to wait for Aaron or Someone else to chime in.

But from a template perspective, here's how it should be:

 

And on a Doopy:

 

Getting back to the end lug, you can see by this pic that the bit that joins to the pipe was quite a bit larger than the locking key section. That's what prompted me to sand smooth bit that joins to the pipe. A bit late now, but I would guess that the joining section was around 41mm but the locking part 38mm or so. Putting the end cap on resulted in it being quite loose. 

 

To combat this I tried to lay a 1/2mm thick piece of styrene around, with the locking keys cut out.

 

Unfortunately the styrene did not like epoxy and it literally fell off when I removed the tape after drying. Next idea was to pack it out with green stuff

 

Much better!

 

The end cap is quite snug now. And this was how I joined the lug to the pipe. Basically just butt jointed against each other, but with 4 'pins' - actually strips of 1.6mm aluminium to key the two pieces together. Later sanded smooth obviously.

 

Thanks for checking in. Any comments welcomed!

[I'm Batman[501st]]

 

 

 

 

 

 

As previously discussed, above first pic was the DVH front sight, and then my first attempt at recreating a new sight. Not too bad, but after Aaron posted some measurements of the real deal http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28936-e-11-pvc-pipe-build-templates-imperial-and-metric/ I realised mine was a bit out. Take 2 below, started with a solid pice of resin (cut from unused DVH Hengstler).

 

 

I was originally going to leave it as a slot for the actul sight to sit in, but decided to increase the realism and drilled a hole. Will epoxy the sight pin in when I epoxy the sight onto the barrel.

 

Yes, I left it as curving the bottom of the sight block. Waaay too hard for someone with my skills (or lack thereof) to attempt cutting out the receiver tube. It is now to specs with about 0.5mm across most sections

 

Let me know what you think.

 

Cheers

Ian

[usaeatt2]

Holy smokes!  That's like digging a tunnel with a spoon.  AMAZING work, Ian! 

[T-Jay[TK]]

Very well done Ian!!!

 

First I was a bit shocked when I saw pic. #7 (because of the slot) but pic. #8 shows it all correct.

 

Don't worry about not cutting the dovetail into the receiver. Except some builders here on the FISD, the majority of people won't see that.

 

Looking forward to your next update...

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Work of art there Ian! Love how you made it out out of one solid piece , just like the real thing.

[gazmosis[501st]]

amazing build!!!

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Wow! Thank you Aaron, Tino, Brian & Steve. Comments like that from the big gun blaster builders such as yourselves are an honour to receive. Thank you.

 

Tino - First plan was to fill in the gap that wasn't covered by the sight pin, but even that wouldn't have been that accurate. A hole with the pin/set screw like below, hopefully looks a little better. I'm not sure how deep the pin normally sits and therefore how much of a recess there is, but hopefully this is close.

 

 

The sight pin could have been an extra mm or so longer, but it should pass .

 

One thing I'm not super happy with is my sight guard. I took the cue from Tino on this one to lay a thin layer of green stuff over the guard and make an imprint in it. Problem is, I only had this centre punch to create an impression

 

like this

 

Definately not accurate, but I'll see what it looks like with a coat of paint on it. Worse case, I'll sand it off and start again.

 

Other updates. Not exciting, but still essential to get some more bits glued/pinned on

 

Rear sight in position

 

Clip lock glued

 

Sight guard on

 

Thanks for checking in....