TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 19, 2015 Report Posted January 19, 2015 I can actually give away a clip. for the cost of shipping. 2 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Posted January 19, 2015 I can actually give away a clip. for the cost of shipping. Mighty kind of you Vern. I have already sent a pm to Dennis, so I'll see what he says first, then pm you if need be. Thank you! Quote
Dday[501st] Posted January 19, 2015 Report Posted January 19, 2015 Thank you Derrek! I do appreciate the feedback. Perhaps on your re-mold list, do we need the writing on the bottom of the magazine "Blastec Imperial Issue 1977 E-11". I don't think it looked all that flash, so have puttied over it. On the top side there was also the imperial cog in a raised mold. This obviously had to be sanded off to fit the cylinders so would be considered a waste of time being there. And I and others salute you for binging this kit up to new unprecedented levels! I agree about the false lettering on the mag well. The only problem I will run into is that because of the lettering the original stuff is removed. Since I do not have an original mag well to mold, I will be copying fixing up the resin master and molding it. This means that it will have no lettering unless I add it myself, and then it will not look very nice since it will be hand done. I think before I go about remolding I need to get in touch with a sterling parts kit. This way I can make my masters real parts instead of resin parts. 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) Well I must thank everyone for their input. Tino - for posting those photos, LATE!!!! (Sarcasm ) Vern - for offering to provide one of his clips free Dennis - for also agreeing to send me one I had messaged Dennis just before Vern offered one to me and he gladly obliged also. Troopers helping Troopers Oh, and of course Aaron for suggesting the idea Edited January 19, 2015 by Sith Lord 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) Update time, and advice requested before I do any glueing... Part 2 of the Bolt, including the Spring: We've already discussed how great the DVH bolt is - cast from a real bolt. Looks great. One of my first encounters with a 'Resin Build' was at an armor party where a trooper had his E-11. I went "Ahh, cool!" and proceded to pull the bolt back. I was too late because the person before me had already done that and broken his charging handle because it was a non functioning one. That made me decide mine had to be functioning and strong! Instead of just gluing the handle to the bolt, I drilled about 3/4 down the length of the handle and epoxy'd a 2inch nail down the hole. It sits about 20mm into the handle with 25mm protruding to be epoxy'd into the bolt after painting. The Spring: As previously discussed I wanted function over form, so had to try to find a spring that would look good, be close to realistic, but more importantly WORK! A couple of attempts to make one out of a coathanger, then garden wire failed miserably, so I realised I had to find a REAL spring. As Aaron has stated a spring needs to be made of 'spring' steel to maintain its coils and spring action. My searches led me to Pirtek, http://www.pirtek.com.au/, a hydraulic hose and fluids supplier. They had a spring - presumably sold by the metre as the piece they had was about 1m long - which they gladly cut off 150mm for FREE! And now I can comfortably pull back the charging handle an easy 50mm or so and it returns to it's position. It also allows the rear cap to push forward, then spring back to allow the folding stock to catch properly. Win/Win! (Lose - I have too many coils showing, however I think it looks better than the few examples where only 6 or 7 are showing) And now the advice please - the extra little bit between the bolt and the spring. There's only a few pics out there which I've tried to model, but what do you think? Close enough? (I will straighten it before gluing - wanted the advice first ) Cheers Ian Edited January 21, 2015 by Sith Lord Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 Ian, that piece looks good to me. Go for it. If you want to have less coils on your spring, what about stretching it and cutting off some coils? You could do that step by step. The spring might get even softer when doing this... 1 Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 Fantastic work Ian. The charging handle looks mighty strong the way you set in the bolt. This is going into my special memo for have-to-do things on my DVH kit. Great choice going with function over form. Having moving parts is always a plus! The spring looks awesome. Nice find! Your spring is certainly better than the one I have for making a functioning bolt. Seriously, i would never even notice there are too many coils at all if you didn't say anything. It looks the part. Going to comment on the bolt spacer part in a bit, I am being helmed to the dinner table! Sorry! 2 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 Fantastic work Ian. The charging handle looks mighty strong the way you set in the bolt. This is going into my special memo for have-to-do things on my DVH kit. Great choice going with function over form. Having moving parts is always a plus! The spring looks awesome. Nice find! Your spring is certainly better than the one I have for making a functioning bolt. Seriously, i would never even notice there are too many coils at all if you didn't say anything. It looks the part. Going to comment on the bolt spacer part in a bit, I am being helmed to the dinner table! Sorry! The DVH V1 kits has a full charging handle that goes through the full bolt. When he changed the bolt mold to be hollow, this was changed to make space for the hole in the bolt. I do agree that it needs to be longer and more secure. Again, another plan I have when I remold the remaining parts. Lots of plans, lots of plans 2 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Posted January 21, 2015 Ian, that piece looks good to me. Go for it. If you want to have less coils on your spring, what about stretching it and cutting off some coils? You could do that step by step. The spring might get even softer when doing this... Thanks Tino! I have stretched it very marginally. Probably lost 1 or 2 coils from original. I didn't want to go too far however, for the fear of losing the function. If I don't get too many negatives, I think I'll leave it as is. Fantastic work Ian. The charging handle looks mighty strong the way you set in the bolt. This is going into my special memo for have-to-do things on my DVH kit. Great choice going with function over form. Having moving parts is always a plus! The spring looks awesome. Nice find! Your spring is certainly better than the one I have for making a functioning bolt. Seriously, i would never even notice there are too many coils at all if you didn't say anything. It looks the part. Going to comment on the bolt spacer part in a bit, I am being helmed to the dinner table! Sorry! Cheers Brian. We all want gizmos and gadgets, don't we ? Haha, best you go obey the master before you get into trouble! The DVH V1 kits has a full charging handle that goes through the full bolt. When he changed the bolt mold to be hollow, this was changed to make space for the hole in the bolt. I do agree that it needs to be longer and more secure. Again, another plan I have when I remold the remaining parts. Lots of plans, lots of plans Looking at the Apex Guns site, the long handle is for full auto guns, whereas the small handle is for semi auto. I think I may have read somewhere that Lou hollowed the bolt out to allow for electronics. I guess having this bolt hollow dictated the need for the small handle?? You do realise, I may well need to buy one of YOUR kits when you have finished with all these grand plans and improvements! Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 The smaller extended piece from the bolt looks good to me. If you want to double-check to be sure with how far it extends out of the bolt and the actual size of the piece, maybe someone can post those measurements for you. The rounded off edge looks spot on to the real part. Since its one of those partially hidden parts thats hard to get a full view of, having pinpoint measurement & placement is probably not relevant unless you feel you might loose sleep over it. As it sits in your mock up in the chamber, it looks cool. You could possible plate it with some thin aluminum sheeting for a metal finish instead of painting. Might be hard to maintain that nice rounded edge you created though. Just a suggestion. I could be wrong but There is one photo of that part I saw that shows it is like a pipe/ hollowed in the center. Maybe that could be a detail to add too. If it is indeed more like a pipe in shape rather than a solid piece, you can consider fabricating another one from some thick aluminum tubing or drill out the center of the one you made. You would have to know how thick the walls are first though. Sorry, I can't post pics from my ipad but will try in a bit from my wife's pc with the photo I am talking about. All these details you are adding make this the poster build for the DVH kit. It's going to look killer when its done! 1 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks Tino! I have stretched it very marginally. Probably lost 1 or 2 coils from original. I didn't want to go too far however, for the fear of losing the function. If I don't get too many negatives, I think I'll leave it as is. Cheers Brian. We all want gizmos and gadgets, don't we ? Haha, best you go obey the master before you get into trouble! Looking at the Apex Guns site, the long handle is for full auto guns, whereas the small handle is for semi auto. I think I may have read somewhere that Lou hollowed the bolt out to allow for electronics. I guess having this bolt hollow dictated the need for the small handle?? You do realise, I may well need to buy one of YOUR kits when you have finished with all these grand plans and improvements! DVH V1 had the FA bolt and charging handle that went straight through. However the bolt did not have the hole to accommodate the full charging handle and it had to be chopped anyways. For the V2 he took a resin copy of the V1 handle and cut it and molded that. Then he took a resin copy of the V1 bolt and hollowed it out to allow for electronics. I have an idea to keep the bolt as it is in my next iteration but to hand drill out the handle hole once the bolt is done curing. The complex nature of the mold as it is with the hole in the middle makes making this second hole very hard to make any longer then it already is, so drilling is an easy option. I will take the resin handle and extend it longer so that it drops into the bolt a lot more and sits much better, more securely. The smaller extended piece from the bolt looks good to me. If you want to double-check to be sure with how far it extends out of the bolt and the actual size of the piece, maybe someone can post those measurements for you. The rounded off edge looks spot on to the real part. Since its one of those partially hidden parts thats hard to get a full view of, having pinpoint measurement & placement is probably not relevant unless you feel you might loose sleep over it. As it sits in your mock up in the chamber, it looks cool. You could possible plate it with some thin aluminum sheeting for a metal finish instead of painting. Might be hard to maintain that nice rounded edge you created though. Just a suggestion. I could be wrong but There is one photo of that part I saw that shows it is like a pipe/ hollowed in the center. Maybe that could be a detail to add too. If it is indeed more like a pipe in shape rather than a solid piece, you can consider fabricating another one from some thick aluminum tubing or drill out the center of the one you made. You would have to know how thick the walls are first though. Sorry, I can't post pics from my ipad but will try in a bit from my wife's pc with the photo I am talking about. All these details you are adding make this the poster build for the DVH kit. It's going to look killer when its done! I think you are talking about the charging handle for the FA bolt? The handle is a solid piece of metal from top to bottom and is very hefty. 1 Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a520/Bulldog44Japan/Sterling%20Sub%20Machine%20Gun/09427318-6d92-42db-b88e-b6f8626248d9_zpsb558b987.jpg Sorry Derrek. I meant to explain the wood part Ian created that holds to spring in place behind the bolt. Hope the photo link helps clear up what I am talking about. I need to go to a sterling SMG school to learn the official part names! Ian, check out the link/photo when you get a chance. Edited January 21, 2015 by Bulldog44 1 Quote
usaeatt2 Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 I had to go spelunking through Photobucket, but I found pictures of the bolt, spring, charging handle, recoil cup and recoil pin. Only the rear of the recoil cup is visible when assembled and compressed. You've done a good job of replicating it with your wooden part! Hmmm...I may use that first picture with another project I'm working on... 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks guys. I really appreciate the feedback and recommendations. That first pic, Aaron, I think is the main pic I've seen floating around. Brian, your pic definitely does seem to show that it is hollowed or at least recessed, doesn't it? I wonder if others who have played with real Sterlings (Aaron, Derrek, others?) could confirm whether this is the norm, or unique to that particular picture. Either way, I guess I could recess it, just to give it that extra detail and depth Quote
usaeatt2 Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks guys. I really appreciate the feedback and recommendations. That first pic, Aaron, I think is the main pic I've seen floating around. Brian, your pic definitely does seem to show that it is hollowed or at least recessed, doesn't it? I wonder if others who have played with real Sterlings (Aaron, Derrek, others?) could confirm whether this is the norm, or unique to that particular picture. Either way, I guess I could recess it, just to give it that extra detail and depth For all practical purposes, it's a sheet metal cup. The smaller spring slides inside the cup. The larger spring slides over the outside of the cup. The beveled lip acts as a stop for the larger spring. When everything is assembled, you can only see the bottom of the cup peeking out from behind the bolt. 1 Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks guys. I really appreciate the feedback and recommendations. That first pic, Aaron, I think is the main pic I've seen floating around. Brian, your pic definitely does seem to show that it is hollowed or at least recessed, doesn't it? I wonder if others who have played with real Sterlings (Aaron, Derrek, others?) could confirm whether this is the norm, or unique to that particular picture. Either way, I guess I could recess it, just to give it that extra detail and depth Definitely confirm that its hollow first. I could possibly been referring to a photo that is incorrect for a Sterling. You did such a great job forming that part, I would live in shame if I misguided you to make changes that could possibly be incorrect. If it is hollow or recessed, its a matter of do you really want to add that detail for your own satisfaction, since it is mostly hidden from view. As is, it looks like a real recoil cup when you have it in the chamber! 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Posted January 21, 2015 Super dodgy drawing time! Aaron, do you think the bottom of the cup (the bit that we see), is flat, or has the recess. If it is a recess, as per Brian's pics, I could understand this to be the same diameter to house the smaller inner spring in a 'seat'. Quote
usaeatt2 Posted January 22, 2015 Report Posted January 22, 2015 Super dodgy drawing time! Aaron, do you think the bottom of the cup (the bit that we see), is flat, or has the recess. If it is a recess, as per Brian's pics, I could understand this to be the same diameter to house the smaller inner spring in a 'seat'. I like sketches! Some of the best ideas start with them. It's a cup, but it has a hole in the bottom. No recess, at least not on any of the 3 I have. I checked all 3 because my E-11 was made from an EARLY Sterling, and the extractor is different (notched vs solid) from everyone else's. It'll be nice to finish my picture project so I don't have to tear down my E-11 anymore. It's naturally weathered now. Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Posted January 22, 2015 That's the winning picture! Awesome as ever. Thank you. Betcha you could tear that Sterling down with your eyes closed now. Perhaps 'recess' is the wrong word, but that 'hole' is what I was referring to as the 'recess'. I will carve that out, just for a bit of definition. Thanks again. 1 Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 22, 2015 Report Posted January 22, 2015 I like sketches! Some of the best ideas start with them. It's a cup, but it has a hole in the bottom. No recess, at least not on any of the 3 I have. I checked all 3 because my E-11 was made from an EARLY Sterling, and the extractor is different (notched vs solid) from everyone else's. It'll be nice to finish my picture project so I don't have to tear down my E-11 anymore. It's naturally weathered now. Thanks for posting this Aaron. Always great to have 100% confirmation on parts unknown! Sorry to ask but would you be able to post measurements-?No worries if its a pain to do so. Apologies Ian for hijacking the post. Quote
usaeatt2 Posted January 22, 2015 Report Posted January 22, 2015 Sorry to ask but would you be able to post measurements? OK, here we go...measurements with a Starrett caliper. Imperial measurements (metric in parathesis) as pictured. Total height: 1.305" (33.147mm) Lip diameter: 1.145" (29.083mm) Lip thickness: 0.142" (3.607mm) Cup outer diameter: 0.968" (24.587mm) Hole diameter: 0.730" (18.542mm) Bevel angle: 30 degrees 1 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Posted January 22, 2015 One last question - the height/length of the cup is 33mm. Is that how far it protrudes from the end of the bolt (the visible length) - ie: it doesn't actually insert into the bolt at all (like I did do with my timber one)? Actually 2 - How deep is the hole in the second picture? Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 22, 2015 Report Posted January 22, 2015 (edited) when the bolt is properly assembled and under compression it looks much different than the exploded version. this is a real bolt handle and charging assembly. seated in the tube. (note the lack of the square detail at the front.) and pressed down to the 10-11 coils length. (end cap is not fully in place) Edited January 22, 2015 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Posted January 22, 2015 Useless post number whatever - it's interesting to see where people within our community live. I just google mapped Valparaiso. Looks very nice. Very green! Quote
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