DVH Pipe Build with Extras

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Tell you what Aaron, I was scared too. The further I went, the more little screws I found. Can't believe there's so many components to a scope! Had to be done considering the marks on the prisms.

 

I'm actually now starting to get scared about the painting. Without double checking, I think it was Tino who did a few test paint jobs - one was simply dabbing paper over wet paint. That might be worth trying on the scope.

 

I've pretty much only got the T-Tracks and sliding bolt/spring to go I think, then I've got to start thinking about the whole painting process and what must be installed first before the next bit can be.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

All this doesn't do anything for you guys though. I am working to get my hands on another scope and counter within my local region so I can make a new casting of these parts to fix these problems.

Cheers Derrek. As we've said a few times, it's all about continued improvement, so it's great that your looking at ways to do that for us!

[T-Jay[TK]]

(...)  I think it was Tino who did a few test paint jobs - one was simply dabbing paper over wet paint.  (...)

 

Correct Ian. That technique from Felice was shown in entry #64 of my build.

 

To increase that effect I used some Hammerite paint with hammered finish. This paint was much thicker, which brought an even nicer texture onto the surface when it got paper-dabbed. See here.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Awesome. Thanks Tino. It is probably on that excel sheet of mine in my first post, but saves me looking it up

[T-Jay[TK]]

No Problem. By the way: that paper dabbing technique might also be an idea to get a texture again on the middle section of your scope (on the sanded green stuff).

 

But it will be a real challange to get it looking as the texture in the front and rear ends...

[I'm Batman[501st]]

No Problem. By the way: that paper dabbing technique might also be an idea to get a texture again on the middle section of your scope (on the sanded green stuff).

 

But it will be a real challange to get it looking as the texture in the front and rear ends...

 

Agree with both

[I'm Batman[501st]]

 

please drill out the center hole on the pin interface cap

and study the front of the counter as well.

 

Any thoughts on what I should be studying Vern? In my investigations, I found this Hengstler in the For Sale section only recently. It looks very similar, almost that this cast could have been molded from it. Obviously a little tidying up here and there, but any major mods required? Thoughts anyone?

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

Here is a front view picture of my Hengstler 400 (with metal bracket). Maybe this helps you Ian...

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Thanks Tino, I'll certainly use that nice close up and the other pic above to try to improve mine before I lay some paint down.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Question for owners of real sterlings if I may:

 

What does the underside of the mag housing look like? Most pics are only of the top, but what is meant to be in that oval shaped recess? Anything?

 

Thanks in advance.

[Dday[501st]]

Question for owners of real sterlings if I may:

 

What does the underside of the mag housing look like? Most pics are only of the top, but what is meant to be in that oval shaped recess? Anything?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

The oval shaped part is the underside of the magazine release button.

 

 

If you se on the other side of the magazine housing, the rounded top is actually a screw that goes through the ejector pin and into this oval piece of metal. When the rounded button on top is pressed the clip is unlocked from the housing.

 

 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Awesome. Thanks for that Derrek. It looks like the DVH mold was made without the undeside oval release button in place. There is about a 2mm oval void where it should be. However I don't think anything is really required to make it 'better'. Might just leave it as is. 

 

Cheers

[Dday[501st]]

Awesome. Thanks for that Derrek. It looks like the DVH mold was made without the undeside oval release button in place. There is about a 2mm oval void where it should be. However I don't think anything is really required to make it 'better'. Might just leave it as is. 

 

Cheers

 

Yes, it looks like the recess was filled with clay for the molding process. What you might do is continue to fill it up so it is level with the rest of the housing then you can carve a fine line all around the edge to show they are different pieces and make the small hole where the screw is. Is should be a pretty easy thing, quick and easy.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Yeah, that should be a quick and easy fix. Need to get the green stuff out for the Hengstler, so will tackle two jobs at the same time.

 

The Rail and Bracket:

 

I've gone for the fairly standard design scope rail, deciding on the thinner option of 1/16 (1.6mm) thick aluminium, instead of the commonly, but less accurately used 1/8 (3mm). To cut to the chase - the 1/16 is fine! I don't have any flex or bowing with the real scope on it at all, so for most people using resin scopes they would certainly not have a problem using the thinner rail.

 

 

I used some previously discussed measurements of

 

- Rear scope foot in line with folding stock hinge

- Rear of Hengster in line with front of rear foot

- Top of Hengstler approximately half way up on the side of the scope

 

With the counter, I wanted to keep the Snaggletooth section operational so had to measure and mark where I could put some screws without fouling the mechanism. I couldn't use glue to join the two halves as this would have been too close to the moving parts.

 

I had some steel angle so drew up a design

 

After one failed attempt, I came up with this

 

So I have 2 screws going into the hollow rear half and 2 screws going into the front resin half. Mounted up it s very solid with no movement. Now I can reset the numbers and only have to remove 2 screws to manually adjust again. (We'll see in the future whether this is a good idea or not. I might get annoyed with it resetting and actually prefer it fixed. We'll see...)

 

The rear screw going into the rear sight. I had to cut the screw short as this one went through into my receiver tube. This would have fouled my bolt from sliding in and out, so had to go.

 

And the scope and counter all mounted up

 

 

Cheers

Ian

Edited January 6, 2015 by Sith Lord

[I'm Batman[501st]]

As per the previous post, you'll see that the cylinders are now on. For ultimate accuracy on a budget and pure awesomeness, I decided on Andy's resin cylinders. They are seriously a work of art.

 

You can see the differences between old DVH and Andys below

 

For those following Dday's (Derreks) posts, everyone will be stoked that these resin cylinders from Andy will now be included with Dday DVH kits. A closer look: 

 

Pins and Epoxy again

 

I did have one blow out, due to the very thin walls of the mag housing. Nothing that a bit more epoxy won't fix.

 

From my research there doesn't seem to be a right way or wrong way in respect to lining up the the cylinders in line with the barrel or in line with the mag housing. I opted for the latter. Thought it looked better...

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

In case you still need a reference pic for the underside of the mag housing, i have this one:

 

And what i did back when i was building my e-11:

 

Hope this helps.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

 

Hope this helps.

Excellent. Thanks Germain. I think I can and will definitely do something similar.

[usaeatt2]

DUDE!  You're almost done!!!    The Thunder From Down Under!

 

Super clean work with that rail!  It's deceptively difficult to get the rail and bracket just right - I've got 3 minor "mistake" rails to prove it!

Good to know 1/16" aluminum is sturdy enough for a resin counter.

 

Next up, the simple and fun task of bending t-tracks?     Or paint? 

Edited January 6, 2015 by usaeatt2

[Dday[501st]]

Thanks for posting the comparison to the old cylinders. It is so crazy the difference!

[kev011]

I had some steel angle so drew up a design

 

I think I have two chunks of the same angle from ikea

 

 

Edited January 6, 2015 by kev011

[I'm Batman[501st]]

DUDE!  You're almost done!!!    The Thunder From Down Under!

 

Super clean work with that rail!  It's deceptively difficult to get the rail and bracket just right - I've got 3 minor "mistake" rails to prove it!

Good to know 1/16" aluminum is sturdy enough for a resin counter.

 

Next up, the simple and fun task of bending t-tracks?     Or paint? 

Getting scary isn't it? I wonder if I can out source the painting somewhere.....

[I'm Batman[501st]]

 

I had some steel angle so drew up a design

I think I have two chunks of the same angle from ikea

I wondered where I got it from. I reckon it is a bracket from a bed I built recently. You always have parts left over on these flat packs don't you

[kev011]

I wondered where I got it from. I reckon it is a bracket from a bed I built recently. You always have parts left over on these flat packs don't you

I happened to have the identical left over bracket that I cut up to do the exact same thing today

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Wow Ian, great progress! Looking killer! The counter bracket design is very clever and looks like it will definitely keep that counter in place. I might give the thinner scope rail a try based on your findings. I have a piece of 2mm thick aluminium but it looks chunky. I prefer the look you have with yours.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Thanks Brian. Germain's keen eye on Aaron's steel build with the 1/8 - 1/16 rail is what made me definitly go for it. Have a look through his thread and there is a great side by side comparison shot of the two. 2mm would be a good compromise if you do have that.