EJGreen's RT-MOD (Stunt) Build Thread[*RT]

[EJGreen]

The sniper plate is still curing rather nicely.  I'm going to let it sit for another day or two as I'm hesitant to remove any of the clamps that are holding everything together.

 

That being said, the right shin is done; complete with the eye hook closure system...

 

 

 

[EJGreen]

For my next trick, I've decided to move onto something a little easier as I'm not quite ready for the thigh armor just yet.  I'll be working with the thermal detonator next...

 

Interestingly enough, Rob didn't include a pipe with my kit. I probably could've emailed him and asked for him to send one from Canada OR I could do a little research and grab what I need from Home Depot.  What's included is a plate that looks like it might be used for attaching the clamps on the back.  I don't think any of us use that...

 

 

 

 

So here' everything that I've collected for the TD.  I've got a piece of 2-in pvc pipe (cut to 7 3/8" in length).  I also have the metal clips which I received from EvilBoy.  The clips don't come with screws so I picked up a few #6 pan head screws and bolts.  I've also got my cans of black and gray spray paint...

 

 

 

Using a metal file, I sanded down the ends of the tube where the end caps will fit.  I sanded both the outside and inside edges and then drilled a hole into the center of the pipe because that's apparently what all the cool kids are doing these days.  I took the pipe to the kitchen sink and washed it off to get rid of any grit or PVC shavings and let it dry.  Next thing I'll do it fit everything together to see how this works before I do any painting on the tube.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Believe it or not but DarthAloha isn't even Centurion O_o. 

 

About these gaps you're so bothered by on the shins, they are supposed to be there! This is just the way it is, no matter what you will do about them, they'll still be there.

The one thing to remind of is that the gaps are oriented towards the inside. So basically there will always be your other legs to stand in the way and to hide it when fully suited. I have the same system closure, the same gaps, i've done more than 20 troopings, and i've never seen these gaps noticeable on any pictures of me in armor.

 

Also, the reason behind the hole in the TD pipe is to let an escape way for the air when you slide on both of the end caps. Otherwise it can get hard to slide them all the way. The hole is drilled where the main panel goes, then you slide on the end caps, and after that you glue the main panel over to hide the hole.

 

And before you do anything on your TD i can see that the clips should be shortened. The top hole for the first screw should be right under the edge of the clip and not spaced like on Evilboy's clips. You can easily cut the excess off with a hacksaw or a dremel:

[EJGreen]

I appreciate the feedback, Germain!  I can honestly say, at this point, that I'm not worried about the gaps in the shins anymore.  Before I attempted the eye hooks, I held some strips of Velcro to see what it would look like and to be honest, I saw the same gaps.

 

I also wanted to say thanks for the heads up on the TD clips.  I can see where there's a considerable amount of material between the first screw and the edge.  I'll be sure to take care of that before I attempt to assemble everything.

Edited June 7, 2015 by EJGreen

[EJGreen]

So, I've applied a base coat of black and then a couple coats of the gray and let it dry overnight. I also trimmed the belt clips down, like Germain suggested so the edge is much closer to the last holes.

I'm trying to determine what's the best way to assemble this thing. From what I've seen, the clips butt up against the end caps and the TD plate rests against the top edges of the clips. I've got pan-head screws and bolts for attaching the clips but if I put the end caps on first, I won't be able to put the bolts on the end of the screws. Perhaps I'll take some careful measurements to see where the clips need to sit.

 

 

 

 

 

During my research, I ran across this image which gives an idea in terms of measurements for the TD.  I find it interesting, however, this is the first TD where I've seen black paint applied to the ridges of the TD plate...

 

Edited June 7, 2015 by EJGreen

[EJGreen]

I'm feeling a bit concerned with this TD.  Nothing is glued but I did screw in one of the metal clips and I'm not sure if this looks right at all.  Is the clip supposed to wrap all the way around the tube like this?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I seriously need some feedback before I continue with this piece.  As I mentioned, nothing is glued in place and if I need to, I have spare PVC pipe left over to make another one in case this is really screwed up and can't be salvaged.

Edited June 7, 2015 by EJGreen

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

Looks ok to me. I would have left 1/8" between the caps and the clip though.

 

It matters more how the control panel sits when it's in your belt and not as much as how much clip is showing.

 

-Eric

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[EJGreen]

Looks ok to me. I would have left 1/8" between the caps and the clip though.

It matters more how the control panel sits when it's in your belt and not as much as how much clip is showing.

I can move the clip a little further apart from the cap. Centurion CRL says to keep them butted close. My concern is that when the TD fitz onto my belt that the plate is going to face upward rather than outwards.

[Locitus[Admin]]

During my research, I ran across this image which gives an idea in terms of measurements for the TD.  I find it interesting, however, this is the first TD where I've seen black paint applied to the ridges of the TD plate...

That picture is of the RS original detonator that Simon (owner) had painted on as child. It has since been cleaned up after the picture was taken.

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Eric, can you get a picture of your TD that shows the entire thing, similar to the RS original one that you shared?

That would help to get a better feel for what is going on.  I'm all about lots of photos that show all of the angles, but right now all of yours are so close up that we can see the details, but not the TD.  

 

From what I can see in the pictures you've shared so far, it appears to be alright, even if a little more metal could have been left on the edge of the clips as Eric suggested.  I think that you've done a fine job, but one full picture would clarify a lot.

[EJGreen]

I'm posting a few more pics of my TD.  I still don't think it's right.  The faceplate appears to be pointing upwards rather than outward.  I was going to hook it to my belt but now I'm in panic mode because I've misplaced my canvas belt!!  I've been tearing up the whole house looking for it but here's a few pics of where my TD stands at the moment.

 

Again, nothing is glued down and the PVC tube is 2" in diameter and 7 3/8" in length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

I think it's already good enough.

But if you want to improve them, the clips are just wrapping around the pipe a bit too much. Straighten them at the back and everything should be fine. 

[EJGreen]

Thanks to Tim, I was able to easily fix my TD clip issue. I trimmed a little more off the ends, drilled a second hole into he metal and finally screwed them into the PVC pipe. The plate is glued into place and curing.

[EJGreen]

While I was debating he TD, I managed to get the thigh armor together. After looking at several build threads I decided to go with the tapered look as the untrimmed pieces were just too big around the knees. As I walked around the house during mg initial fitting, they were wobbling back and forth against my knees. I've got reinforcement strips inside with 20mm cover strips on the front and 25mm cover strips on the back.

 

I need to trim the bottok corners of the ammo pack but I can't find the concensus as to what are the accurate rivets to use to attach it. I've read split rivets, pop rivets, and cap rivets but the majority are leaning towards cap rivets.

 

I have no experience with rivets, whatsoever, so I need to check out some tutorials.

 

Pics to follow...

Edited June 10, 2015 by EJGreen

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Yes, CAP rivets with a 7mm head (1/32) are the accurate rivets for the ammo thigh pack. The same split rivets used for the left side of the armor are also accepted for Centurion, though they are supposed to be CAP rivets.

 

The cap rivets are really easy to set. Just hammer down the two halves together and you're done. Just be sure to put the right half of the rivet toward the outside before hammering.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/19-how-to-install-cap-rivets-video/

Edited June 10, 2015 by The5thHorseman

[EJGreen]

Thanks for the clarification, Germain.  I really do appreciate the amount of feedback you've given me these past several days!

 

As promised, here's a few pics of what I've completed recently...

 

 

The sniper plate cured rather nicely.  I think it's got a strong enough bond so I'm not worried about it falling off on me...

 

 

 

 

Here's a pic with my calf and thigh armor on.  I'm still searching for those elusive BLACK TK boots that I can dye white. Until then, my shins drop down to my ankles...

 

 

 

Lastly, I've rounded the corners of the ammo pack for the right thigh armor.  I pretty much used the same technique as everyone else: use the TD pipe to draw a rounded corner, trim with scissors and sand until smooth.

 

 

Now that I have confirmation about the ammo pack rivets, I can start searching for those.  Anyone know of a good place to get them locally? 

Edited June 11, 2015 by EJGreen

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

FISD is a wonderful place :

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23970-fs-centurion-level-rivet-sets/#entry301666

[EJGreen]

Thank again, Germain!

 

FISD is a wonderful place indeed!

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

I think it's already good enough.

But if you want to improve them, the clips are just wrapping around the pipe a bit too much. Straighten them at the back and everything should be fine. 

 

Now that I think about it... the RT TD is too small of a diameter. I bet your clips were made for a bigger tube.

 

-Eric

[EJGreen]

I've ordered my rivets from Echo and until they get here, I'm not able to attach the ammo pack to the right thigh piece.  I'm also waiting on a package from Trooperbay which will have my neck seal, accurate gloves w/ latex guards and some other stuff that I don't remember at the moment.  Still on the hunt for those pesky black boots!

 

Anyway, moving on, here's some pics of a fitting of the upper torso pieces...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's actually a comfortable fit.  It's not too tight and not too loose.  I was actually surprised that I was able to tape everything up and then step into it, like a pair of pants, and pull it up.  I'm not sure if everything is properly lined up from front to back.  I've got the cod piece taped up pretty high and there's quite a bit of it inside the ab plate as you can see below....

 

 

At the same time, however, you'll notice from the images above (from the sides) that there's nothing really matching up to the side edges of the butt plate. I know that the belt is going to cover up some of this area but for the life of me, I haven't been able to locate the canvas belt that I had ordered a few months ago.

 

I will say that I did receive a set of the wire brackets/elastic loops and I've been inspecting the return edges on these pieces to see exactly where these brackets will screw into.  Anyone who's followed a RT build thread knows that there's not a lot of return edges on the upper body pieces and there's been some discussions as to how to use the brackets with the RT suit.  I know that some Centurions have screwed the brackets into the interior face of the plates where there wasn't enough return edge.  It's acceptable but it's also been stated that it's not always preferred.

 

I've had a side-bar conversation with Steve (Gaz) about what to do here.  Did you know that Steve's actually a really nice guy?  For some reason, I assumed that someone with the power to grant Centurion medals would be a bit pompous ("You're too short!  DENIED!") but he's not like that at all.  Seriously, great guy.  If you see him tell him I said "hey!" 

 

Anyway, I asked about the brackets and their installation and how it would affect Centurion if there's not enough return edges and he stated, "brackets are not required for Centurion!"  At the same time, however, he understood my OCD for screen accuracy and he did state that because RT suits rarely have return edges on the upper armor, I could either screw the brackets into the face of the plates or I could use a heat iron to create return edges.

 

Honestly, I've got solid return edges on both the chest and back plates.  There's also a nice return edge on the butt and kidney pieces.  Where there's a bit of an issue is a lack of return edge on the AB plate and the cod piece.  I bought a heat iron that I used for ironing out the thumb print from my bicep but I'm not sure how difficult it would be to create a return edge all the way around these pieces.

 

I've been putting the upper armor off for as long as possible.  Working with so many pieces at one time (with so many CRL's), it's something that I've been dreading.  But there's not much left to do and it's gotta get done at some point or another.

 

 

As always, your comments, feedback, suggestions, and alcoholic beverages are appreciated.

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

I would be curious if the brackets would allow the chest to sit right on you. In my experience with the tall ab plate and the larger chest there may be too much overlap to use the brackets.

 

Certainly do a lot of fitting before you decide to screw those brackets in.

 

Some folks who have a return edge just put the screws in the chest that attach to nada.

 

And sadly you have to request return edges from RT if you want them. The bottom of the chest return edge changes the whole look of the armor. But that is how I spot RT kits is the lack of chest return.

 

-Eric

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[EJGreen]

There's a nice return edge at the bottom of the chest plate--enough to get screws into it.  In terms of overlap between the chest and the AB plate I have a couple more pics...

 

 

 

 

I'm simply holding the chest plate up with my hand but I understand about the overlap.  It's possible that I could trim some of the top edge from the AB plate to make it shorter.  I admit that I could be wearing the whole setup a bit high as well.  In terms of the overlap, however, is there such a thing as "too much" or "not enough?"

 

 

Edited June 17, 2015 by EJGreen

[EJGreen]

When I look closer at the top edge of the AB plate, there's an "implied" return edge there that I could probably make more pronounced with the heat iron...

 

 

What's confusing me is the difference in contours between the bottom of the chest plate and the top of the AB plate...

 

 

There's gotta be some type of overlap between these two pieces otherwise there's a big gap between the two pieces.

 

 

 

I was looking at Tim's (Dark CMF's) build and he screwed the brackets into the bottom edge of the chest but then he attached the other brackets into the back side of the AB plate....

 

Photo courtesy of Dark CMF.  All rights reserved. Void where prohibited. 

 

The overlap is going to hide the screws in the top edge of the AB plate, correct?  Don't know if I could sleep at night if I did it this way.

[EJGreen]

After much thought (and beer) I envisioned the possibility of placing these brackets like they were meant to installed.  The chest, back, kidney, and butt pieces all have sufficient return edges on them that are capable of mounting the brackets to.  The only return edge I didn't have was on the edge of the AB plate.  There was a "hint" of a return edge along the top curve of the AB plate that I thought I could enhance with a bit of work using my heating iron.

 

So, that's what I've done!

 

 

 

I know, I know, it's not the sexiest looking return edge that you're likely to see but it is functional and you can see that I was able to mount my brackets to it...

 

 

 

 

 

Once I got the brackets and elastic loops installed in the AB plate, it was just a matter of lining the AB plate with the chest piece and carefully measuring were the brackets needed to go on the chest piece.  I used pencil marks where everything should line up and then drilled my holes in to the chest plate and screwed everything together...

 

 

 

Here's a look at the inside of the pieces screwed together...

 

 

 

A look at the overlap...

 

 

 

Look ma!  No tape...

 

 

 

Now, it's just a matter of attaching the brackets to the remainder of the pieces.  I will go back and paint the screw heads with white paint when everything is complete.

 

 

Note to beginners:  If you're planning to go this route make sure that when you screw in one side of the bracket that you leave the other side of the bracket open so that you can slip the elastic loop onto it.  Also, it's easier if you secure the brackets with the elastic loops to the chest piece first and then finish off the AB plate.  I did it in reverse and had a bit of a hard time trying to work with my tools between the overlap of the AB plate and the chest pieces.

[EJGreen]

I thought I would update everyone on my conversations with Steve (Gazmosis) about my bracket placement.  I've recently shown him the photos of my work above and he's given me two-thumbs up!  

 

In the same conversation, he mentioned that he suggest a recommendation to Rob (maker of the RT suit) to sell his kits with return edges.  I know, now, that this is something that he does on request but when I initially contacted Rob about my suit, I had no idea that he accepted such personal requests.  Hindsight being what it is, I would've ordered my kit that way.