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Posted

Hello All,

 

I am new here and thought I might document my journey, so it begins ...

 

I have purchased a set of ATA armor from my neighbor who is a 501st member. (The Armor Build will be a different thread ).

Along with the armor he sold me a Sterling Sub DEAC that I am starting to covert to an E-11 photos below :

 

I am currently looking for a Counter and Power Cells .. if anyone can point me in the direction or knows of some for sale, please message me ...

 

Also, I am very open to SUGGESTIONS ... in fact, I would hope some of you will make some so I can do this correctly.

Thanks to all who do.

 

Thanks and Enjoy !!

 

 

Sterling:

 

IMG_20141013_195208222.jpg

 

M38 Scope:

 

IMG_20141013_195222709.jpg

 

T-Tracks:

 

IMG_20141013_195153206_HDR.jpg

 

I am currently in the process of fabricating the Scope Rail and Counter Mount.

I will post pics of that progress as I take them.

 

 

More to come ...

Posted

The main thing to do with a demilled Sterling is to cut down the magazine for which Aaron has done an excellent HOWTO available here:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/42-cutting-a-sterling-magazine-to-e-11-size/

 

And about the power cylinders the best on the market are PlayfulWolfClub's ones. You can find the sale threads here:

- Resin "budget" ones:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24821-screen-accurate-resin-budget-power-cylinders-for-e11s/#entry311996

 

- or if you prefer more accurate metal ones:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24179-screen-accurate-e11-power-cylinders/

  • Like 1
Posted

The main thing to do with a demilled Sterling is to cut down the magazine for which Aaron has done an excellent HOWTO available here:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/42-cutting-a-sterling-magazine-to-e-11-size/

 

And about the power cylinders the best on the market are PlayfulWolfClub's ones. You can find the sale threads here:

- Resin "budget" ones:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24821-screen-accurate-resin-budget-power-cylinders-for-e11s/#entry311996

 

- or if you prefer more accurate metal ones:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24179-screen-accurate-e11-power-cylinders/

 

Thank you VERY much for the links!!!

I have read through Aaron's "HOW-TO" and do plan on going about it that way.

What a wealth of knowledge here .. so much that it is overwhelming ...

 

Thank You again ..

Posted

Looking forward to the build

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a counter I am willing to part with. PM me and I can shoot you pics if you want

  • Like 1
Posted

.... and Thanks to gazmosis ... I have scored a counter !!

 

Now just need Power Cylinders .. I have messaged PlayfulWolfClub but waiting to hear back ...

  • Like 1
Posted

.... and Thanks to gazmosis ... I have scored a counter !!

 

Now just need Power Cylinders .. I have messaged PlayfulWolfClub but waiting to hear back ...

 

If he has some available, you will not be disappointed. And don't believe him about his so-called imperfections. They are incredible!

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Joe!  Welcome to the fun!

 

+1 on Andy's power cylinders.  Worth the wait.

 

Marv or Gino tracks?  I added a post about bending tracks to my build thread a couple nights ago.  It's a satisfying feature to add to your Sterling.

 

I'm curious about the deactivation on your Sterling...how was it done?  I've seen a few different ways, but none are immediately obvious in your pictures.

 

Aaron

Posted

Nice score..... Have fun.... Jewel of my collection to have a real deal Sterling...... I managed to get an old spec that's completely field strippable and dry fires..... :P cost me a fortune though  :icon_eek:

  • Like 2
Posted

Very cool! :duim:  Cannot wait to see this converted! What kind of deactivation this has? Are there moving parts left?

 

PWC (PlayfulWolfClub) cylinders are the best out there, no comparison, and I had several models till I got his

Posted (edited)

Started fabricating the Scope Rail and Counter Mount:

IMG_20141016_121641288_HDR.jpg

Edited by Sly11
Edited to restore the image by Sly11, 2020
Posted

Very cool! :duim:  Cannot wait to see this converted! What kind of deactivation this has? Are there moving parts left?

 

PWC (PlayfulWolfClub) cylinders are the best out there, no comparison, and I had several models till I got his

 

The bolt is welded in place.

 

Trigger moves, Mag Ejects, Selector lever moves .. charging handle does NOT move.

Posted

Dang!!! I wish the people who deac these weapons would just weld the mag feed into the receiver. I guess you could still manually chamber a round.....whatever...

It's a shame nothing else but the trigger moves

  • Like 1
Posted

The old spec ones pre '85 weenie and dry fire and selectors move ect. I can take mine apart, field strip it. Makes it a bit more fun. Obviously the barrel has been blocked and firing pin filed off.

 

Dang!!! I wish the people who deac these weapons would just weld the mag feed into the receiver. I guess you could still manually chamber a round.....whatever...

It's a shame nothing else but the trigger moves

  • Like 1
Posted

Looks like you've taken your first step into a much larger world, Joe!

 

Looking forward to your progress, DEAC conversions are always exciting!!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Well ... The Aluminum I had was a little brittle and was snapping so I went with Galvanized Steel for the Scope rail .. the counter mount is still aluminum 

 

 

Cutting to size ...

481117a1-c727-4340-827d-252cbf3ec73a.jpg

 

Layout Fluid:

2.jpg

 

Cutting Notches:

3.jpg

 

Some Grinding:

ad5d2d33-ce78-4acd-848f-b65a653771ff.jpg

 

5.jpg

 

Notch to slide in front "vent hole" :

6.jpg

 

Notch to slide over top of the rear site :

7.jpg

 

Counter mount :

8.jpg

 

Next will be to drill holes to attach the counter bracket to the scope rail to the scope. I am also going to drill a hole in the rail where it goes over top of the rear site and use the hole in the rear site to secure them together with a small screw.

 

I will post pictures of how it fits on the Sterling when I get home ...

Edited by Sly11
Edited to restore the image by Sly11, 2020
Posted

I'm confused about the "notch to fit over the rear sight" With the middle portion of the sight being an "L" shape and always up, how does this fit over it?

Posted (edited)
On 10/18/2014 at 3:25 AM, gazmosis said:

I'm confused about the "notch to fit over the rear sight" With the middle portion of the sight being an "L" shape and always up, how does this fit over it?

9.jpg

 

2.

10.jpg

 

3.

11.jpg

 

4.

12.jpg

 

Edited by Sly11
Edited to restore the image by Sly11, 2020
Posted

The rear sight should fold down.  It might be stuck.  Push forward on it.  The idea is to be able to change ranging with two different size sight holes.

 

The rear of the scope rail should not be bent - just a narrow tab sticking straight back to fit between the sides of the rear sight.  What you have right now looks good, but it's way too high.

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