Bulldog44 DD E-11Build

[usaeatt2]

I used a sex bolt for the rear pivoting connection of the folding stock on my build.

 

I'm not familiar with this particular piece of "hardware"...please enlighten us!

[Dougal[501st]]

 

This is a typical sex bolt. They come in various lengths. Luckily enough my local hardware store sold the exact length needed to make it all work. Once the sex bolt was inserted there was some play. So I hand tooled the pictured "grommet" to fill in that space and take any play out of the modded hinge.

 

 

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[ukswrath[Staff]]

 

This is a typical sex bolt. They come in various lengths. Luckily enough my local hardware store sold the exact length needed to make it all work. Once the sex bolt was inserted there was some play. So I hand tooled the pictured "grommet" to fill in that space and take any play out of the modded hinge.

 

 

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Actually that's a Chicago screw but whatever, awesome idea none the less. 

[Dougal[501st]]

The bolt/screw goes by many names... Sex bolt, screw posts, tee-nuts and/or binding posts. I like the sound of sex bolt the best. Makes my blaster even sexier then it is!!!!

 

 

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

The bolt/screw goes by many names... Sex bolt, screw posts, tee-nuts and/or binding posts. I like the sound of sex bolt the best. Makes my blaster even sexier then it is!!!!

 

 

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Thanks Carl for the suggestion. I was thinking of using one of those but decided to go another route. The headphone jacks seem to work the best for what I want to do. I will keep these in mind for future use!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Rear Sight:

 

Here is the Doopy rear sight I received. I tried to clean up the pivot pin on each side but they still looked way too deformed and lacked detail.

 

Here is the updated rear sight with new hardware. The larger aluminium rings are no deeper than 2-3mm deep. I drilled a hole straight through the rear sight to fit the 3mm solid aluminium shaft (this fits nice and snug so everything stay in place). I drilled shallow holes on the ends on each shaft to create the the same look as the sterling pin/shaft. Little bit of fine sanding and they look much better than what was there before. 

 

 

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Folding Stock- After lots of time wasted on trying to figure out the best way to connect the folding stock, I decided to remove the entire inner rod like usaeatt2 did on his build. (Thanks Aaron for taking that mod the extra step. Also thanks for the magnet idea as I will be using that to connect the stock to the receiver.)

 

First I drilled and shaped the opening (looks like a key slot) on the inner rod where the latch on real sterling would be. It was wise to make the new inner rod first to take measurements from the Doopy stock otherwise I would have been working without a reference.

 

For the odd shaped end piece of the inner rod, I bought some 14mm x14mm aluminium and tried making one. It was easy to file down but getting it factory perfect would require further metal working skills.

 

Once I figured out that the magnet method to connect the stock was the route I decided on, the aluminium inner rod and end piece would be better used on my DVH kit build. So I am going to re-use the original PVC end piece/block and black PVC tubing instead. I will add photos of those parts tomorrow. Below is a quick peek at the magnets temporarily glued in place. Added epoxy to fill the open pockets and entomb the magnets in their position on one side so far. A slim rectangular magnet will slide in between the magnets to lock it in place. Post more on that tomorrow too.

 

 

I trimmed and glued the headphone jacks into place on the folding stock wishbone ends. Afterwards, I filled in the open seams with some epoxy. The finishing metal hinge caps will be glued on once everything sets. Post photos later on that.

 

End Cap-

 

I might have totally screwed this up but when I referenced the end caps on real sterlings, the circular piece that holds the D-ring in place looks like it sits almost flush with the end cap wall. It looks slightly raised. So instead of sanding the circular part down at the base, I carved out a deep enough space to fit that part into the end cap wall. Not seen here yet, I already sunk the circular part in epoxy and filled in the crude gaps and seams. Here are just a few photos of the process so far. I also added the clear rubber tube to the d-ring where it sits behind the circular piece to reduce the d-ring from dangling around too much. It fits nice and snug!

 

More to come soon!

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

[usaeatt2]

Dear Brian,

 

I thought I had OCD, but I was wrong...  YOU have OCD.

Thanks for pushing the EXTREME limits of what is possible with a resin build. 

TRULY an inspiring pleasure to watch.

 

Your perfectly healthy friend,

Aaron 

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Dear Brian,

 

I thought I had OCD, but I was wrong...  YOU have OCD.

Thanks for pushing the EXTREME limits of what is possible with a resin build. 

TRULY an inspiring pleasure to watch.

 

Your perfectly healthy friend,

Aaron 

Thanks always Aaron! Your awesome builds and advice feed the OCD machine! I need to be institutionalized!

During this build I am often torn between the idea of highlighting the resin kit features or just plain replacing parts. Not sure which is the best path but wherever possible, try to achieve a nice balance so nothing looks out of place. My only big regret so far are the folding stock pivot/hinge pin in the front. Not close enough to the real deal and it sticks out a bit on each side.

Thanks again for watching. More to come soon on my doopy counter mod!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

End Cap- Epoxy filled and sanded, ready for primer coat

 

 

Folding Stock-

   PVC Black inner tube details-

Key slot cut, rear section slot created to allow the magnet to pass through-

 

 

Magnet catch channel finished-

 

 

Counter modifications-

 

Polished display window- a bit on the thin side.

 

L shaped bracket installed to mount the number dials-

 

 

 

Aluminium sheeting to act as a guide for the other counter half to stay in place. 

 

 

Thin white PVC sheeting to create spacing illusion-

 

Dollar store/100 yen shop counters used for number dials-

 

 

Not entirely correct but it displays my 5-digit TK number nicely.

 

 

 

 

Almost finished with the counter .

Edited November 16, 2020 by Bulldog44

[T-Jay[TK]]

Unbelievable and outstanding as always!

 

This is really awesome!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

 Every time I stop by here I am absolutely amazed, yes that's my amazed look lol

 

Brian your are master craftsman. Bravo! 

[Novak Dimon[TK]]

Absolutely impressive!!!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Unbelievable and outstanding as always!

 

This is really awesome!

Cheers Tino! I will be working on the scope again soon and adding the finishing details with the screws you kindly sold me! 

 

 Every time I stop by here I am absolutely amazed, yes that's my amazed look lol

 

Brian your are master craftsman. Bravo! 

Loving the amazed look! Thanks for the kind compliments. Hope the finished product will turn out successfully.

 

Absolutely impressive!!!

Thanks as well for your kind comment. 

 

Appreciate all your positive comments very much. Feel free to to offer any other ideas or suggestions, constructive criticism as well! 

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Folding Stock Wishbone hinge caps-  I had to grind down and polish up two new of these cosmetic hinge caps since the last ones where ground down too thin and the central nail part of the thumb tac pushed through the dome when I applied some pressure during gluing. I filled some epoxy under the dome to create more surface area on the underside for gluing. Then used some really strong fast setting epoxy glue and they seem stuck on pretty good. 

 

 

Muzzle Hex Bolts-

   I made a mess opening the holes to fit the bolts into. The holes I made just made the bolts sit too low in sockets so I cut some plastic rings (as spacers) to adjust the position where they bolts should sit. Then I filled in the cracks and seams with some smooth epoxy. Still needs a little more sanding remove tiny bumps & oddities. If they need to sit deeper in the socket or slightly protruding more from the socket, please let me know. I used a few real sterling photo references but the fine details are hard to truly nail down without ever actually seeing one in person.

 Thanks Dday for the bolts! They look much better than the local hardware stuff I found.

Edited April 8, 2015 by Bulldog44

[Dday[501st]]

Folding Stock Wishbone hinge caps-  I had to grind down and polish up two new of these cosmetic hinge caps since the last ones where ground down too thin and the central nail part of the thumb tac pushed through the dome when I applied some pressure during gluing. I filled some epoxy under the dome to create more surface area on the underside for gluing. Then used some really strong fast setting epoxy glue and they seem stuck on pretty good. 

 

 

 

 

Muzzle Hex Bolts-

   I made a mess opening the holes to fit the bolts into. The holes I made just made the bolts sit too low in sockets so I cut some plastic rings (as spacers) to adjust the position where they bolts should sit. Then I filled in the cracks and seams with some smooth epoxy. Still needs a little more sanding remove tiny bumps & oddities. If they need to sit deeper in the socket or slightly protruding more from the socket, please let me know. I used a few real sterling photo references but the fine details are hard to truly nail down without ever actually seeing one in person.

 

 

 Thanks Dday for the bolts! They look much better than the local hardware stuff I found.

 

My pleasure! I'm glad to have contributed in any way to this project.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Counter Reset Button-  I used some found plastic electrical plug cover and cut it in half. This is used at the box casing to house the springs and reset button. I will glue on the white plastic hobby sheeting to enclose it and glue the whole reset unit inside the counter.

 

Test fitting-

 

Just need to trim a bit off the number roll shaft to get it all the fit, install the real screws, maybe make the little thin metal connectors, and then a coat of primer on the weekend. That about wraps up the major counter work.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Here is my assembly for the mock bolt & charging handle:

•   aluminium bolt plate
• charging handle with stereo jack implant
• stereo jack input
• PVC piping for under the bolt plate 
• black PVC pipe used for the spring cup (*not yet cut to length)  

 

The holes drilled for the charging handle to fit into were tricky to drill perfectly round. My cheap electric drill wobbles a bit so the hole shaped ended up a bit oval looking. The good thing is that the base for the charging handle is not perfectly round so its hard to tell once it is in place.

 

The stereo input part is not yet glued into place. I will do that once I finalise things. For now it all stays together thanks to the stereo jack connection. It is also convenient to be able to remove the charging handle with ease if I need to. 

[Artshot]

I think I have just seen the bar raised on resin E-11 builds, stunning work.

[usaeatt2]

THIS BUILD SUCKS!  You're making the rest of us look like amateurs... 

 

You should AT LEAST be able to plug ear buds into ONE of those jacks while standing around waiting for the Emperor...

Edited April 16, 2015 by usaeatt2

[T-Jay[TK]]

Gazmosis once commented my thread and called me an "overachiever".

 

Looking at your build, I want to forward this recognition to somebody, who really deserves it much more. 

[Squimspickle[TK]]

Front Sight- (Sorry the photos are not really clear. Might try a re-shoot later on. )

 

     I tried my best to reshape the DoopyDoo front sight to make it appear like a real sterling sight but with such limited space to work with this was all I could do without removing the inner piece.

 

The detail was really hard to capture but the general shape is somewhat there. I used Tamiya Putty (Yellow color- mix paste with setting liquid) to build up the layers I wanted, then filed away. Just need to drill the holes, add the grub screws and the vertical slots on the base.

 

I am still tempted to try and carve out the correct area where the inner sight piece slips into (Pic B ). Instead of trying to use the Doopy inner sight piece I re-sculpted, I would prefer to have a cast of that part if I were to head in that direction. Does anyone have that inner sight part (Pic A) separated from the receiver? And could cast that part? Here is a pic of it below. Thanks to Aaron for posting it in T-Jay's build.

Pic A

 

Pic B

 

If anyone has tried this, please let me know how it turned out. 

Your build is looking great!  I just did this mod last weekend.  It isn't finished yet but you can see what I've done here:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30899-front-sight-mod-on-a-doopy-doos-resin-kit-added-realism/

It was surprisingly easier then I thought it would be.  In my opinion def worth doing. 

Edited April 16, 2015 by Squimspickle

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I think I have just seen the bar raised on resin E-11 builds, stunning work.

Thanks Art! Hoping it turns out nicely in the paint booth when I get to that point. Wish me luck!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

THIS BUILD SUCKS!  You're making the rest of us look like amateurs... 

 

You should AT LEAST be able to plug ear buds into ONE of those jacks while standing around waiting for the Emperor...

Lol. Laughing my way to work reading your post. Honestly I m an amateur at building these! Thanks or the laugh!

 

Aaron, what an excellent idea about the jacks! I wish I had thought of that earlier. I could have made proper use of one of those darn stereo jacks.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Gazmosis once commented my thread and called me an "overachiever".

 

Looking at your build, I want to forward this recognition to somebody, who really deserves it much more. 

Thanks Tino. But you are the original overachiever! Without you going the extra 100 miles on your build, I would never have started all these mods.