Bulldog44 DD E-11Build

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Nice find Brian. I mentioned to another builder  , that my rotary switch was about 20x8mm so your 19x5 would certainly be do-able. It's amazing what you find in those sorts of dollar shops.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Nice find Brian. I mentioned to another builder  , that my rotary switch was about 20x8mm so your 19x5 would certainly be do-able. It's amazing what you find in those sorts of dollar shops.

Thanks Ian. I do like your rotary switch better and it will definitely last longer than the locking ruler. Good to know the dimensions are almost the same , might be worth me trying to attempt using it if i dont get something smaller. Dollar store stuff is amazing though and definitely helps when you want to buy some cheap things to prototype parts.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Did a little work on the end cap lock last night. I was able to remove one side of the lock housing without too much trouble. Then it took a bit of patience to saw out the inner lever part. There will be some cosmetic repair work needed but nothing too difficult. The lever looks a bit crooked in shape so I will file it down on the sides until its straighter. I might need to add a thin layer of epoxy to rebuild areas that lost some resin when sawed it off. 

 

First part removed:

 

Lever removed:

 

 

For the center pivot, I will drill a hole and set a small metal tube inside. The side fasteners will be some slightly round-headed copper nails. Cant tell if the real Sterling fasteners are domed or just flat headed pins.

 

I am kinda working blind when it comes to trimming and filing things to completion because the Doopy lock looks uneven on the sides and the lever part T-end is also a bit warped. Sorry to ask but if someone has some nice closeup photos of the lock from different angles and some basic measurements, I would deeply appreciate it. 

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, looking good

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Great work so far Brian. I saw Truimphmark's ones for sale and wondered about doing just that. Will be interesting to see how fragile it might be. I wonder if making a metal side piece/bracket would help??

[T-Jay[TK]]

@ Brian (Bulldog44): Wow, really a nice mod. Haven't seen this before!

 

@ Ian (Sith Lord): Good idea with the metal part. The thin resin won't stand the stress very long.

[usaeatt2]

I am kinda working blind when it comes to trimming and filing things to completion because the Doopy lock looks uneven on the sides and the lever part T-end is also a bit warped.

Sorry to ask but if someone has some nice closeup photos of the lock from different angles and some basic measurements, I would deeply appreciate it. 

 

Apparently, we're all working on this mod at the same time...  great minds think alike!

Doopy T-part end is definitely warped.  I warmed mine with a heat gun, then carefully flexed it straight and held it while it cooled.  Worked like a charm.

 

Checking against a straight edge - NOW the bottom is warped, but I'll correct that with sandpaper on the receiver pipe:

 

Dimensions (sorry the last picture is blurry at max zoom, but you can read it):

Length:  33mm

Width:  9.5mm

Height:  8mm

 

 

 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

We can always rely on Aaron to come through with the goods.

 

Thank you, that pic of the end lug will also help me with my current task.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Thanks Q, Ian and Tino.  The idea came from Triumphmark so he deserves credit for actually making a moving lock. I just had to try it with a Doopys lock to see if it is possible to cut it apart and reassemble.

Ian's idea to make a metal bracket is probably the best way to make it sturdy. Not sure I can do the metal work for that with my basic set of tools. 

 

Aaron, huge thanks again for your photos and measurements. extremely helpful. Would you be able to take the measurements for the see saw T part? Only if you have time. The T end is where my part is looking rough after cutting it out and will need some reshaping.

   Using a heat gun on the t part is a great idea- great job getting it to sit flat. I only have a hair blow dryer so I am not taking any chances doing that yet. I will probably just slap on some epoxy and file it to size where it needs it. Very interested to see what you do to create your lock.  

 

It is interesting to see we are all working on the same part right now. It makes it all the more fun! 

 

 Yes, Aaron has been a wealth of information and just need to pause and say a tremendous thank you for spending the time to answer questions, take photos and share your expertise with us!

Domo Arigato Gozaimasu!

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Ian's idea to make a metal bracket is probably the best way to make it sturdy. Not sure I can do the metal work for that with my basic set of tools. 

 

 

No way I would have the tools or skills either, but depending on the measurements, something like this aluminium channel might work.

 

http://www.bunnings.com.au/metalmate-rcr-10-x-10-x-1-5mm-1m-aluminium-channel_p1079292

 

 

Edit - sorry about the pic being so small.

Edited December 10, 2014 by Sith Lord

[Bulldog44[TK]]

No way I would have the tools or skills either, but depending on the measurements, something like this aluminium channel might work.

 

http://www.bunnings.com.au/metalmate-rcr-10-x-10-x-1-5mm-1m-aluminium-channel_p1079292

 

 

Edit - sorry about the pic being so small.

Wow, Ian, that is great. Looks like it would be a nice fit for this! 

   You got me thinking, I saw some similar rail track stuff at the home center in PVC too that might fit the bill for this. Metal of course would be best. If it is metal then it could support a different type of spring much like a clothes pin spring but on a smaller scale.

  Actually I am not quite sure what helps  lock T part move the way it does but maybe Aaron can fill us in on the mechanics or basic hardware used.

 

Great detective work Ian!

[I'm Batman[501st]]

If it is metal then it could support a different type of spring much like a clothes pin spring but on a smaller scale.

 

 

Great idea! I wonder what real life items come with a spring that small, or how hard it would be to make your own with thin piano wire...

 

I have seen them actually. On radio controlled planes. Could check out the local Hobby Shop!

Edited December 10, 2014 by Sith Lord

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I am still trying to find some parts to replicate the rivets or fasteners seen on the folding stock. I tried using some pipe and found items but none have proved satisfactory yet.

    The brass washers that came with the split rivets for my armor are the perfect size for the larger outer fastener on the stock handle. I could also use an acrylic washer and widen the inner diameter but metal is always nicer when possible. Not I will use the brass ones yet as I might need them later on for a future armor build.  Metal washers in Japan do not seem to be available with a larger inner diameter.

 

So I am now looking to find mini eyelets which look more the part than anything else I can scrape up. 

 

Hoping these come in a few more sizes to choose from. Any thoughts on these? 

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

[Truimphmark[TK]]

Hi guys did think of making the rear lock clip out of Ali U bar they do sell some on eBay my thoughts first to make the hole thing out of Ali. Resin was a after thought still thinking of doing but doing the outer U out of Ali and keeping the the Tee part resin.As Brian can tell you for a little bit of resin that there made form it's quite strong it's not like it's going to hold any bearing on it.

It's only the tiny bit of a pen spring and the spindle I used was at first was a roll pin as have a few but I found that the the plastic tube that covers a small paint brush worked fine a bit of super glue job done and it gives the look a better feel

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Photo Updates to this build to come tomorrow when I get my photos taken and uploaded.

 

 I was wondering if someone can tell me the mechanics for the end cap lock. Is it a spring hidden inside someone? If so what kind of spring? Or is it some kind os flexible metal bad sort of like in a battery case ?

Here are just 2 shots i took of the front sight block after gluing the two parts together and some details added.

 

 

I did eventually finish the  front sight block and the sight itself. Also dug in deep and attempted the dovetail section. Needs a bit more filing to fit the sight block and some fine tuning. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos of the process, got too consumed just making the cuts and sanding.
My sight block is slightly off from the exact measurements Aaron so kindly provided in his sight block diagram. Aaron, I totally know what you mean now when you say that working with small scale items is difficult . Just a millimeter too big or small and things look way off.

 

Also found this spring that somewhat fits the Doopy receiver. 

   A tiny bit loose, not a snug fit (22 mm diameter). Too short unfortunately ( 105 mm). I can try giving it a stretch to add length but might just leave it as is. 

 

Thats all for now!

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

[usaeatt2]

Aaron, I totally know what you mean now when you say that working with small scale items is difficult . Just a millimeter too big or small and things look way off.

 

I find it HILARIOUS in hindsight.

After several sets of metal power cylinders, I'd literally find myself saying things like, "HOLY $#%@!!! That's a 1/2 mm off!!! 

When building regular things, people would think you're insane for maintaining tolerances to less than a millimeter...

And Andy built over 50 perfect sets.

Edited January 19, 2015 by usaeatt2

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I find it HILARIOUS in hindsight.

After several sets of metal power cylinders, I'd literally find myself saying things like, "HOLY $#%@!!! That's a 1/2 mm off!!! 

When building regular things, people would think you're insane for maintaining tolerances to less than a millimeter...

And Andy built over 50 perfect sets.

Yeah, it makes me want to just go and buy the darn thing. No matter how careful I try to be, I manage to screw things up enough to want to start all over. The front front sight block was one of those parts. The one I am going with is the 4th attempt. Not entirely happy with it but this build needs to move ahead. 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Welcome back Brian. We have missed you...! I did a cabinet making course, where our assessments were passed if we were within a mm. Even a mm in that scenario is wrong and looks like a mistake.

 

Anyway, that sight block looks awesome. New levels yet again.... Can't wait to see this dovetail in the receiver. That should be good.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Welcome back Brian. We have missed you...! I did a cabinet making course, where our assessments were passed if we were within a mm. Even a mm in that scenario is wrong and looks like a mistake.

 

Anyway, that sight block looks awesome. New levels yet again.... Can't wait to see this dovetail in the receiver. That should be good.

Thanks Ian, always great to have feedback on the build.  It feels good to finally get back into things. Been having a rough season straying healthy. Finding self sick more often that not. 

Sounded like a good learning experience taking that cabinet course. Kinda sounds like the scrutiny NASA puts all their projects through. Good thing this is just a hobby!  Let me know how your hunt for that spring goes. Got mine ready to ship to you tomorrow if needed)

[usaeatt2]

Yeah, it makes me want to just go and buy the darn thing. No matter how careful I try to be, I manage to screw things up enough to want to start all over. The front front sight block was one of those parts. The one I am going with is the 4th attempt. Not entirely happy with it but this build needs to move ahead. 

 

That's EXACTLY how I ended up buying mine...after my 4th attempt.

 

Seriously, Brian, the sight block looks INCREDIBLE!!! It's going to look even better in a real dovetail!

Cut the slot in the bottom, drill two holes, drop in your pin, add an allen screw and you're done! 

[usaeatt2]

I did a cabinet making course, where our assessments were passed if we were within a mm. Even a mm in that scenario is wrong and looks like a mistake.

 

Based on your story, I'm pretty sure the guys who built the cabinets in my house were drunk...

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Thanks Ian, always great to have feedback on the build.  It feels good to finally get back into things. Been having a rough season straying healthy. Finding self sick more often that not. 

Sounded like a good learning experience taking that cabinet course. Kinda sounds like the scrutiny NASA puts all their projects through. Good thing this is just a hobby!  Let me know how your hunt for that spring goes. Got mine ready to ship to you tomorrow if needed)

Sucks to be sick. Hopefully nothing too serious and long term...

 

I went out today to the place I told you about. The spring looked ok, so I went to buy it. It came on a big long length so he just cut me off a bit for free! Nice. We'll see how it goes in the next day or so.

[T-Jay[TK]]

Hey Brian, good to have you back.

 

Nice work on that front sight! Can't wait to see it completed and installed...

[Bulldog44[TK]]

On 1/19/2015 at 8:25 PM, T-Jay said:

Hey Brian, good to have you back.

 

Nice work on that front sight! Can't wait to see it completed and installed...

Thanks Tino. Great to finally jump back into the build. 

 

Ian, nothing serious on the health but just continuously catching colds and the flu (even I had the shot). At least thats all I hope! Just got work through it I guess.

-You had me thinking after your search for the imprinted pattern on the sight guard and I found this in the tool box; screw on part for a bike valve. It has a nice pattern that looks like it might work. Wish it was a bit wider but I will test to see what I can do with it.

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

[I'm Batman[501st]]

It would be nice if that imprint went all the way top to bottom. Hopefully you can make it work. Looks like it will leave a nice impression.