Bulldog44 DD E-11Build

**The5thHorseman[501st]** · October 12, 2014

Hope this help:

Edited October 12, 2014 by The5thHorseman

**Bulldog44[TK]** · October 12, 2014

Hope this help:

Thanks Germain. Very helpful.

Do you happen to know the measurements for that squarish joint piece ? If you have a topside view as well of that , please post it.

Appreciate your help!

**The5thHorseman[501st]** · October 12, 2014

Distance marked in red on the pic is about 13.5mm

**Bulldog44[TK]** · October 13, 2014

Awesome! That's the money shot! Exactly what I needed.Super thanks Germain!

It's going to be hard to replicate that square end part on the inner rod but I will try it. With this photo I have a great reference point.

Arigato!

**T-Jay[TK]** · October 15, 2014

@ Andrew (Sly11): Indeed, Steve's magazines look really great. Can only recommend these. But it all depends on which of the 3 types of screen used guns you are heading for.

As Germain recently pointed out here, the DoopyDoo's magazine (which I thought is incorrect) has been screen used! And for the Bapty version (from the Deserttroopers) you'll need a wooden block .

As said: it all depends on the type of gun.

@ Brian (Bulldog44): You are doing good work so far and I am still fascinated by the realistic appearance of the inner bolt (looks like two separate parts). :duim: Following...

**Sly11[Admin]** · October 15, 2014

Ahh yes, good clarification T-Jay, I was automatically thinking ANH E-11, but I do like the Replica Sterling look.

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**Bulldog44[TK]** · October 20, 2014

I haven't thought too much about which blaster to base my build on yet, maybe at a later time. Instead, I have been caught up in trying to make certain parts look more realistic.

Here is where I am at-

Folding Stock : Inserted some nails to lock the 2 parts in place when gluing them together.

This is before I glued the parts together. Fits a bit better than this but I will have to fill the seams and try to cosmetically look like one part.

Ejector Port-

This is just a test piece. Carved out the needed shape, took 2 days of slow filing but I managed to get the metal plate to slide into place.

Plastic Sheet Template for moving bolt plate-

Not pretty work but I had to take a lot of the inner walls out to fit the plate inside.

Pistol grip- I am trying to see if I can cut and overlay some aluminium plating to areas that have metal showing. Testing it out but it looks interesting enough to give it a try. Just need to carve out some more spacing to tuck the metal into.

Power Cylinders- Got some of these ideas from TJAY/Tino's build. Making a mess of it but hopefully it will end up better than it looks.

I had to drill a larger hole for the nuts to accommodate the bolts I am using. I made comparisons to the resin power cylinders I bought from Playfulwolf/Aaron and this was as close as I could get to match the nuts and bolts he used.

Also tried to find the best matching rods for the fuses. 4mm was too thin, 5mm too thick. I had a broken plastic flag pole/stick sitting around and when I matched it to the fuse size of Aaron's fuses, it seemed to be the best out of the four choices I had.Would have preferred to use metal but it will be painted in the end anyway.

Scope- drilled out the inside of the scope with a step bit first but should have used the flat wood bits first. Finally got it all done without cracking the scope to pieces. The big hole is bit off centre though.

Found a $1.00 magnifying glass lens and fit that into the larger opening, Fits okay. Still some black plastic pieces stuck to the clear plastic from the frame it was mounted in.

For the smaller lens, I will try to use some eye lens kit parts used to assemble Gundam models. Post that later if it works.

Looks better from the side.

Here are the bits I used to drill the holes.

Thats all for now!

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

**T-Jay[TK]** · October 20, 2014

Hey Brian, that folding stock looks really stable and your ejection port is still my favorite . Canâ€™t wait to see that one finished. Incredible work also with the aluminium plating. What a nice idea!

Compare some measurements from Andyâ€™s power cylinders with your build - especially the dimensions of the end caps . Scope lens looks very nice.

**Dday[501st]** · October 20, 2014

This is truly a pimped doopy build, every step you take makes it a crazy step forward.

As you work, I would put some black wash in the creases of the bolt plate.

From looking at the sterling bolt I have, the metal on the raised part is more polished then the main body. I imagine it's because the raised section it constantly in touch with the metal in the barrel and chamber and the main body doesn't touch anything.

**Bulldog44[TK]** · October 20, 2014

Hey Brian, that folding stock looks really stable and your ejection port is still my favorite . Canâ€™t wait to see that one finished. Incredible work also with the aluminium plating. What a nice idea!

Compare some measurements from Andyâ€™s power cylinders with your build - especially the dimensions of the end caps . Scope lens looks very nice.

Glad you like the ejector port idea. It's been really difficult to get it all to fit properly. Spent 4 hours last night sanding and cutting more of the inner receiver to get a moving bolt part to fit. So,e progress but this would have been better to attempt on a second build.

I will get so,e measurements up of the power cylinders tonight when I get home. The Doopy ones are much bigger but I am not going to mess with re-sizing those!

Wish I can get my scope looking like yours. How you used the wax to removed paint for weathering was brilliant. Your build has been my inspiration.

This is truly a pimped doopy build, every step you take makes it a crazy step forward.

As you work, I would put some black wash in the creases of the bolt plate.

From looking at the sterling bolt I have, the metal on the raised part is more polished then the main body. I imagine it's because the raised section it constantly in touch with the metal in the barrel and chamber and the main body doesn't touch anything.

Yes, I think its starting to feel crazy stupid actually if it ends up looking like junk. Thanks for the advice on the bolt. Getting the same real sterling look for that is going to be hard but I will try your idea. Maybe I can rub on some real black grease from an auto shop . The seams for the raised part might be obvious so I might try and solder that part on and file it to a clean seamless connection. Call the fire department of you se lots of smoke! Lol.

Keep the advice coming !

**Bulldog44[TK]** · October 21, 2014

Power Cylinders with the nuts and bolts in place- Because I had to widen the hole on the nut to fit the M2 bolt, they no longer threaded through properly so I had to just use some super glue to keep them in place. I will try cleaning up the glue later before priming these parts.

Just another photo of the aluminium plate/bolt I re-cut and mocked up last night. Still needs work . If it stays in place properly with the plastic tube that sits under it, it can slide back and forth when you pull back on the cocking handle. Once I get a spring sorted out, then it should keep all the parts in place. (Note: this is not the cocking handle i will use, just a temporary part for testing)

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

jkno · October 21, 2014

This is a fantastic build!! :duim: Keep up the good work!!

**Bulldog44[TK]** · October 27, 2014

On 10/21/2014 at 9:31 PM, jkno said:

This is a fantastic build!! Keep up the good work!!

Thanks for your comments.

Recent work this weekend- lots of sanding and filing things down.

Magazine Clip & Magazine Port- bought one of Steve's mag clips during his first run, awesome work. It doesn't fit as I had hoped so I started to remove all the guts in the Doopy mag port.

This took forever to sand and file out. I drilled some initial holes......more drilling, dremel sanding..... more sanding, filing...... sanding...... filing....... :6:

The walls are quite thin and I stopped when I felt that any further removal would result in damage. Still the clip barely fit inside.....roughly 1mm deep. Forget about a fully intact sliding mag clip. So I started to file down the mag clip along the areas of contact to match the opening of the port. Made some progress but my hands were aching. Called it quits for the night.

Here is how far I got-

I want to put some electronics in this blaster so I bought some Hasbro lights and sounds off another member here and hope to get them to fit. Since the Hasbro firing button is attached to the board (and I lack any know how on adding a separate one) I need to position the board close to the trigger. I was able to make some room behind the ejector port . I will try to install a moving rod from the trigger to the board located in the receiver. The board /push button sits almost directly over the trigger area so hopefully it won't be too hard to get it all to work.

Carved out a lot on the opposite side of the receiver tube and almost breached the outer wall. Luckily this area will be covered by the magazine port & made it easy to run the battery wires if I can get the batteries to fit in the magazine clip.

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

**Bulldog44[TK]** · October 27, 2014

Final aluminium bolt plate to be used- used .8mm aluminium sheeting, measured and cut, sanded, and super glued the raised strip on.

What it looks like in place-

There will be a second thinner plate of .3mm aluminium under the bolt plate to act as a protective slide cover. Without it, the paint would eventually scratch off the blaster along the contact points.It helps slide the bolt smoother. Can't glue it down, it will need to be removable in case I want to access the electronics.

Added some of that metal touch to the pistol grip/trigger assembly area.- I used .3 mm aluminium sheeting to do this. First had to use a very thin hobby saw and exact knife the carve a space to insert the sheeting into. I carved it all out to fit a rectangle first. Easier to insert this instead of trying to match the contour lines of the grip. The red box gives you an idea how deep the metal sits. Once it was easy to fit a desired length of metal. I just traced the outer edge on the reverse side while in place, removed it and trimmed it but leaving some extra to fold/bend over the edge.

Please with the overall effect. I will paint the remaining silver areas.

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

**I'm Batman[501st]** · October 27, 2014

There will be a second thinner plate of .3mm aluminium under the bolt plate to act as a protective slide cover. Without it, the paint would eventually scratch off the blaster along the contact points.It helps slide the bolt smoother.

Great workmanship! Fantastic idea to have an inner sleeve to protect the paint on the bolt. Might try incorporate that into my upcoming build. Keep up the great work.

**T-Jay[TK]** · October 27, 2014

That inner bolt is so damn cool. :jc_doublethumbup:

**The5thHorseman[501st]** · October 27, 2014

I have no idea how you managed to carve out the space underneath the trigger area but this is stuning. I just hope it won't compromise too much the resistance of it. The folding stock's branches should kind of protect this area but a direct hit on it might be enough to break it.

And this inner bolt man... Shiny!

**Dougal[501st]** · October 27, 2014

Who's got skills?? This man does!!!!

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**Bulldog44[TK]** · October 27, 2014

Great workmanship! Fantastic idea to have an inner sleeve to protect the paint on the bolt. Might try incorporate that into my upcoming build. Keep up the great work.

Thanks, glad you like it so far. I may try to glue it down eventually and trim it to match the custom opening I made for the electronics.

**Bulldog44[TK]** · October 27, 2014

That inner bolt is so damn cool.

Thanks. Really happy with it so far. How it looks when its all finished is what I waiting for.

I have no idea how you managed to carve out the space underneath the trigger area but this is stuning. I just hope it won't compromise too much the resistance of it. The folding stock's branches should kind of protect this area but a direct hit on it might be enough to break it.

And this inner bolt man... Shiny!

That trigger area was tricky to do but the little saw did all the work. Yes, it's probably much more fragile now. That can be said about most of my blaster now, especially the magazine port. Big mistake trying to make the magazine slide in. A lot sorrier I did that now. Steve's magazine is larger than the Doopy mag opening so I thinned that down way too much. If one part of this blaster breaks first, its there?

I am hoping to one down the inner bolt glare with some real workshop oil & grime , but of now its all bling.

Who's got skills?? This man does!!!!

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Thanks, lots of enthusiasm and luck so far. but I feel like am working blind since this is my first blaster build. Hope I can keep the momentum. Stay tuned!

**Bulldog44[TK]** · November 5, 2014

Special thanks to usaeatt2 (Aaron) for posting the front sight block measurement diagrams. With those numbers in hand I got right to work last night and started cutting and filing some PVC to construct a new front sight block for my blaster. The Doopy one I spent many hours on started to crack and chip apart when tried to install the grub screws. I originally used a filler epoxy from Tamiya to build up layers on the sight block but it wasn't the right stuff to use. I am now using another Tamiya smooth surface epoxy that is designed for sculpting to do that kind of work. But for the sight block I am using some PVC that is sold at the local home center which I believe is used for window installation or some kind of sliding door track parts. It is very solid but soft enough to cut & file to shape.

Easier to construct in two parts that one so here are the initial sight block pieces cut and sanded to about the exact dimensions provided by Aaron. Just used a ruler and file to arrive at the final shape. Lots of staring and filing and more staring until I think it looks about even all around.

Oh and I added the crosshatching pattern to the sight block housing/cage?

Its going to be hard to get all those intricate details in there but I will leave that for another night this week. If all fails, try again. Happy with the initial pieces so far.

Next up, I sculpted the end cap of the inner bar for the folding stock. For this I again used a basic square piece of PVC and added a 2 mm layer of Tamiya smooth surface epoxy. I glued together a stack of 4 clear acrylic washers to establish the round screw hole and added epoxy to create the tapering round/ball effect on the front of the piece. I don't have any measurements for this part so I just eyeballed it with reference to some great photos Dday posted for me. My Doopy stock seems a bit off on the length just where this part peeks out from the back so if the positioning looks odd, please let me know. Without a real Sterling folding stock in hand, its hard to judge if this is okay or not.

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I spent a lot of time this weekend creating the firing pin parts for the bolt but that has been a tough mod so I will post more on that when I get further down the line.

Hoping to get my power cylinders all assembled next as well. Jumping back and forth on all these little details but the blaster should start to take more shape soon.

Edited October 22, 2020 by Bulldog44

**gazmosis[501st]** · November 5, 2014

This build is something for the records! The metalwork on the pistol grip is unreal. So is everything else.

Anyway, I am sorry you are having issues with the magazine and housing. Keep in mind that the magazine is a direct cast of a Sterling mag. The doopydoos mag housing has thicker walls than the real weapon. Although you nay believe it will be very fragile, you can still take some off the thickness of the walls. Take out only what you need for the mag to fit in its proper place. You can trim the mag down a bit, too. Once inserted, the magazine will reinforce the housing walls.

**The5thHorseman[501st]** · November 5, 2014

Great work recreating these parts!

The folding stock is really impressive but i would level some more the offset you have between the pipe and the cube section:

(Not the best picture there is, but i didn't find a better one)

Keep on the excellent work, and don't forget to finish your armor too

**Bulldog44[TK]** · November 5, 2014

This build is something for the records! The metalwork on the pistol grip is unreal. So is everything else.

Anyway, I am sorry you are having issues with the magazine and housing. Keep in mind that the magazine is a direct cast of a Sterling mag. The doopydoos mag housing has thicker walls than the real weapon. Although you nay believe it will be very fragile, you can still take some off the thickness of the walls. Take out only what you need for the mag to fit in its proper place. You can trim the mag down a bit, too. Once inserted, the magazine will reinforce the housing walls.

Thanks for taking time to look at my build and happy you are liking the upgrades. thanks to you and too many people to name, the inspiriration came from so many cool builds. The doopy kit is really an open canvas for customizing and I think there will be more cool upgrades to be seen and invented.

No problem about the magazine. Your mag is super real and I had to make it fit. It does feel sturdier with the magazine inserted into the mag port. I will need care when I need to remove it or reinsert. A small sacrifice for a better look!

Great work recreating these parts!

The folding stock is really impressive but i would level some more the offset you have between the pipe and the cube section:

(Not the best picture there is, but i didn't find a better one)

Keep on the excellent work, and don't forget to finish your armor too

I will assemble the pipe and the cube as flush as possible. I think the pipe fell down before I took the photo. Thanks for the heads up and reference pic. There are too few photo shots from underneath the sterling to refer to.

Yes, the armor! I am having so much fun on this I have delayed finishing that up. Just need to glue on the shoulder bridges, paint the AB buttons & rivets, readjust the chest elastics and that's it I think. I will build another troop only helmet with all the Internal gadgets soon after. For now, I will use the one I bought built by RS. Keep the pressure on me or I will never get done!

**Bulldog44[TK]** · November 11, 2014

Battling a week of on and off again headaches, I managed to get some small details finished before the pounding set in.

Trigger work: I wanted to be able to remove the trigger in case I had trouble with the electronics so I first drill a hole through the trigger assembly and drilled on hole a bit wider to fit a small nut. The nut fits in the hole really snug and won't turn when I tighten and loosen the screw that will hold the trigger in place.

I fit a tiny section of brass tubing in the trigger for the screw to run through this way there is no wear and tear on the resin trigger.

Here is the screw that will run through the hole. When all installed the screw is flush with the trigger assembly wall and will not be an eyesore. The hole with the nut will be filled with epoxy to cover it all up.

I will post a photo later with the trigger in place.

Firing Pin finished. Tino made a nicer solid firing pin but I couldn't replicate that so I used a few layers of aluminium and PVC to appear as a solid piece. Just a mock up but it looks good so far. Spent 2 bucks on brass tubing for just that tiny piece.