Bulldog44 DD E-11Build

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Officially posting my build. Originally I wasn't going to start a build thread for my first blaster attempt but I thought it would be good to have some place to mark my progress. If I can add a few more ideas to the Doopy custom build pool then all the better. 

 

Starting this build off with the boss. Luke has overseen the slow construction of my armor and regularly makes visits during my blaster build. He has been most displeased with my progress on both fronts and prefers I just take him for a walk.

 

 

My build is all over the place so please excuse the lack of order. I had a photo of the parts all laid out when I bought the kit but its stuck on my dead hard drive so I will just skip to where I am at.

 

Receiver hole drilling- started with pilot drill holes and then used a bigger bit to open the holes. The bit kept catching the resin and started to chip off pieces around the edges. I used a step bit to drill cleaner holes but could only drill so deep before it hit the inner tube. I used an 11 mm bit to finish things off. A 10.5 mm bit would have been better.

 

 

 

 

 

Installing the grub screw on the magazine housing and the hex bolt on the pistol grip-

 

 

 

Warning: This build will probably move at a snail's pace much like my RS armor build!

Edited September 24, 2020 by Bulldog44

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I bought my kit in 2013 and the folding stock came in 2 pieces. The newer DoopyDoo kits seem to come with a single piece folding stock ( The detail on the newer doopy kits looks much better too. My kit has lots of deformed areas.)

Folding Stock Front- hard to see in most of the pictures but with an exacto knife, I used the dull side of the blade to carve out the areas I wanted to define better, especially along the seams. (sorry, forgot to take before shots)

 

 

 

 

Opened up the area in between the stock handle and rail-

 

 

Some cosmetic work with Tamiya Quick Epoxy to cover up uneven edges and chipped off pieces.-

 

 

Top profile of the stock pieces with the holes drilled and the center channeled out to add the aluminum pipe. -

Edited September 24, 2020 by Bulldog44

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Front of the receiver/nozzle with the holes drilled for the retaining screws/hex bolts-  the bit tore through quickly and chipped off some of the edges.

 

 

Folding Stock mocked up before I glue it together-

 

Started to carved out a visible seam between the ejector port and the bolt with the exacto knife to give a a more realistic look. 

 

 

I bought a set of professional Japanese woodblock carving tools a few years back and found out they are quite useful for this build. They cut through the resin like butter.

 

 

 

Removed the strip on the bolt and carved a bit deeper to highlight the seams more-

 

 

Then I used the small diamond cutter disk on my dremel to score a line along the inside of the opening where the spring and charging handle will go. Got the walls thinned down and removed quite a bit of the walls & inside tube. The sanding wheel helped to even it all out. The only draw back is that the edge of this opening sometimes was hit with the dremel and I had to go back and straighten up the edge. Now the opening might be a little wider than it should be.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I sanded down the bolt enough that I was able to make an opening where I can run the new bolt strip through. Hard to see but its there.

 

 

I might try to use .3 mm aluminum sheeting to cover the bolt to give it a nicer metal finish. I will try using thicker sheeting for the strip that extends to where the charging handle will go. Post more when I get there.

Edited September 24, 2020 by Bulldog44

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Top notch as always Brian! Impressive work so far.

[Dday[501st]]

Very nice pimping of a doopy build! I like it!

[gazmosis[501st]]

Oooh, nom nom nom nom

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Impressive!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Very good work on the ejection port .

 

And with these woodblock carving tools you're going to rock this build!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, looking good

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Top notch as always Brian! Impressive work so far.

Thanks, happy to know you like it so far. Hoping to incorporate all the great custom mods into my build if I can do them any justice.

Very nice pimping of a doopy build! I like it!

Thanks. Dday. I promised myself I was just going to build this kit as is and get finished quickly. But when you see what everyone has been doing to pimp their kits, I felt it would be a waste not too try.

Oooh, nom nom nom nom

Try my best to keep this build entertaining. 

Impressive!

Thanks. The photos are taken with my ipad so the quality is poor but glad you find it impressive so far.

Very good work on the ejection port .

 

And with these woodblock carving tools you're going to rock this build!

Arigato T-Jay. Your build was an inspiration. Looking forward to adding the parts you sent out. 

Nice work, looking good

Thanks a lot. Appreciate the feedback.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Front Sight- (Sorry the photos are not really clear. Might try a re-shoot later on. )

 

     I tried my best to reshape the DoopyDoo front sight to make it appear like a real sterling sight but with such limited space to work with this was all I could do without removing the inner piece.

 

 

 

 

The detail was really hard to capture but the general shape is somewhat there. I used Tamiya Putty (Yellow color- mix paste with setting liquid) to build up the layers I wanted, then filed away. Just need to drill the holes, add the grub screws and the vertical slots on the base.

 

I am still tempted to try and carve out the correct area where the inner sight piece slips into (Pic B ). Instead of trying to use the Doopy inner sight piece I re-sculpted, I would prefer to have a cast of that part if I were to head in that direction. Does anyone have that inner sight part (Pic A) separated from the receiver? And could cast that part? Here is a pic of it below. Thanks to Aaron for posting it in T-Jay's build.

Pic A

 

 

Pic B

 

 

If anyone has tried this, please let me know how it turned out. 

Edited October 12, 2020 by Bulldog44

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Wow, until today, i had never fully understood how this front sight is sitting on the main barrel. I hadn't noticed that notch on the barrel for the sight to fit in... Thanks for linking the pics! Hope you'll find someone to cast it for you.

Edited October 8, 2014 by The5thHorseman

[I'm Batman[501st]]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If anyone has tried this, please let me know how it turned out. 

 

I think Tino is the only other one to try this detailed mod that I have seen. Both yours and his look great. Well done

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26673-full-resin-e-11-from-doopydoos-with-some-modifications/?p=348657

 

Aaron's detail pics on the following page.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26673-full-resin-e-11-from-doopydoos-with-some-modifications/?p=348694

Edited October 8, 2014 by Sith Lord

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Germain, the front sight info is all thanks to Aaron and Tino. It is really cool to see how the community keeps adding more info and great mod ideas to help members achieve further accuracy. 

 

Thanks for posting the links for that Ian. Tino really took his build to new levels. His front sight mod and Aaron's pictures give us a whole new direction on what to do with the Doopy front sight. Doing it exactly like a real sterling will be  difficult but it will add that extra touch of realism. 

 

I bought a DVH kit from Lou a long ways back and having that kit around has been helpful in seeing the differences in both kits. For one thing the strip that runs diagonally on the bolt seen in the ejector port, is much wider on the Doopy kit than the DVH kit. 

  While working on the end cap to fit on the receiver, it was helpful to see how well the DVH cap fit on the doopy receiver. The Doopy cap fits rather loosely. I spent many hours into the night trying to get the Doopy cap to fit nicely by adding more material to where the little locking extensions should be. First I started off by gluing 6 x 6 mm aluminum squares (1.0mm thick aluminum) to the three locations. That didn't work so well and the metal started to damage the resin locking bay channels whenever I tried to twist the cap into its locked position.

Locking Bay Channels- (not sure what you call this exactly)

 

Then I tried spare PVC squares that did somewhat the same thing and after trimming them a bit, they finally allowed the cap to rest in its locked position. But it was really loose...... checked the clock and it was 3:45am . Just about to give it a rest for the day & then I remembered I had some rubber mats left over from some DIY house project.  Eureka!  The rubber is perfect for this application. Its flexible but keeps its shape, adds friction to keep the pieces in place, and easy to trim and glue into place. Its also good because after the blaster is all painted up, the rubber won't scratch or wear down the paint as quickly. 

 

Real sloppy work but I will go back and clean it up later. My eyes were falling out of my head by the time I got done.

Just using the rubber squares alone was not enough to get the cap to lock into place . The cap did not push forward onto the receiver tube enough for the rubber squares to follow the locking path when you twist it to lock. The I did a comparison on the depth of the DVH cap and the Doopy cap. The DVH cap is deeper at about 22 mm ? on the high side of the cap and 20 mm on the side that is indented along the edged. Set to those measurements, I carved out some resin from the inside of cap where the receiver makes contact.

After doing that the cap slid on to the receiver with ease and twisted into locking position.If the cap looks like it sits too far forward, it can easily be nudged back a bit. The rubber squares do all the work keeping the cap exactly where you want it to sit. Very secure.

 

 

The cap fits like a glove! Sleep deprived but very happy with the results. 

-

 

 

Here are better resolution photos of my front sight and the ejector port-

Edited October 12, 2020 by Bulldog44

[Dday[501st]]

I have been considering modifying the front sight of my kits to match the real sterling more.

 

I'm doing a sterling L2A3 conversion for a member here and will have hands on the parts for a few days. I will take some notes and see what will be involved in getting a good cast of the separate pieces and making this part much more accurate.... so something to look forward to

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I have been considering modifying the front sight of my kits to match the real sterling more.

 

I'm doing a sterling L2A3 conversion for a member here and will have hands on the parts for a few days. I will take some notes and see what will be involved in getting a good cast of the separate pieces and making this part much more accurate.... so something to look forward to

Thanks awesome. Hope to hear what you find out. Certainly keep me posted! 

[gazmosis[501st]]

I think you might have that butt cap on a little far. The locking track ridge usually shows just slightly from under the butt cap

[Sly11[Admin]]

Hey Brian, I agree with Steve. If you can loosen the fit of the butt cap, when you put the spring in it will push that cap back slightly and give a good fit.

Mine actually had a touch too much movement so I used a round adhesive backed floor saver ( the things you stick to the bottom of table and chair legs so they don't mark your floors) stuck it into cap, twisted it on and it sits snug and shows the locking track as per the above image.

Can't wait to see your blaster when complete.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Thanks Steve and Andrew for pointing that out. I can move it back with no problem and it should stay snug with the rubber squares. Its good to have people steering me correctly.

 

I will get the spring figured out and see if that does the trick like you said Andrew. I do have some sponge pad adhesive that I can use too. Great advice. 

If I didn't live in Japan, I would just scrap all this and get a real Sterling! 

 

Just a question out of curiosity, why aren't there more members or people who make sterling replica kits? The demand is there it seems. I know the start up cost is expensive & time to cast parts is consuming but it would be great to have a selection of blaster kits to choose from or piece together (taking advantage of different materials for each part casted) Are there legal implications for reproducing gun parts ?

These may be redundant questions but interested to hear other thoughts or reasons on the matter. 

[Sly11[Admin]]

You need to ask Steve about one of his accurate Sterling magazines to replace the one that comes with the DD kit, he does a run on them every now and then, they are great, but you will need to make a few mods for it to fit properly, it is well worth it .

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Dougal[501st]]

I agree with Andrew!! Buy Steve's magazine upgrade!! They are beautiful additions to any E-11 build!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gazmosis[501st]]

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26677-doopy-dos-replacement-e-11-magazine-run-4-now-open/Thank you guys. The run is always up.

[Dday[501st]]

Thanks Steve and Andrew for pointing that out. I can move it back with no problem and it should stay snug with the rubber squares. Its good to have people steering me correctly.

 

I will get the spring figured out and see if that does the trick like you said Andrew. I do have some sponge pad adhesive that I can use too. Great advice. 

If I didn't live in Japan, I would just scrap all this and get a real Sterling! 

 

Just a question out of curiosity, why aren't there more members or people who make sterling replica kits? The demand is there it seems. I know the start up cost is expensive & time to cast parts is consuming but it would be great to have a selection of blaster kits to choose from or piece together (taking advantage of different materials for each part casted) Are there legal implications for reproducing gun parts ?

These may be redundant questions but interested to hear other thoughts or reasons on the matter. 

Casting parts is very time consuming. Creating the molds is difficult to start with to get them just right and error free in a way that you can pour into without bubbles forming... which is next to impossible... Then there are so many parts actually pouring the molds takes a bit of time.

 

So for someone to buy a parts kit from a sterling (almost much be in the USA to get one) then create the molds is possible, or in Europe you can buy the deactivated but complete sterling L2a3 and cut the parts off to mold, but all this is time consuming and more then your average guy wants to do

 

As far as reproducing the actual parts, thats a very expensive thing to do to get them machined, and you'd need a larger enough scale to make it worth while. To machine from aluminum the individual parts I think might be more trouble then it's worth since they are some pretty complex parts.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

You need to ask Steve about one of his accurate Sterling magazines to replace the one that comes with the DD kit, he does a run on them every now and then, they are great, but you will need to make a few mods for it to fit properly, it is well worth it .

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  

I agree with Andrew!! Buy Steve's magazine upgrade!! They are beautiful additions to any E-11 build!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26677-doopy-dos-replacement-e-11-magazine-run-4-now-open/Thank you guys. The run is always up.

  

Casting parts is very time consuming. Creating the molds is difficult to start with to get them just right and error free in a way that you can pour into without bubbles forming... which is next to impossible... Then there are so many parts actually pouring the molds takes a bit of time.

 

So for someone to buy a parts kit from a sterling (almost much be in the USA to get one) then create the molds is possible, or in Europe you can buy the deactivated but complete sterling L2a3 and cut the parts off to mold, but all this is time consuming and more then your average guy wants to do

 

As far as reproducing the actual parts, thats a very expensive thing to do to get them machined, and you'd need a larger enough scale to make it worth while. To machine from aluminum the individual parts I think might be more trouble then it's worth since they are some pretty complex parts.

Thanks all for adding your thoughts. Luckily I ordered one of Steve's mag clips on the first run. Once saw that, I knew it had to have one.

Thanks Derrek for breaking down the complexity of doing a kit. If I had the know how and cash I would love to have a sterling 1:1 accurate replica molded like plactic car models. Probably fragile but replacement parts would be easy to make. Just dreaming!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I am trying to figure out what the folding stock looks like from underneath , right near the wishbone section; its the moveable joint section for the extending pipe and the stock handle. There are almost no pictures of this area and I need some below, rear and top views of how this stock looks when it's folded up(like the doopy kit stock).

 

If someone could post some nice detailed photos of this , I would deeply appreciate it. Thanks.