E11 build with real sterling parts

[kiyotei[TK]]

Hi All,

I've been looking to build my own blaster for some years now and I finally finished it.  I bought a kit of used Sterling parts.  I also bought a sound/special FX controller so my blaster would have lights and sounds when it fired.  It was one hell of a project.  I'll start with some pics and then add more details.  I need to figure out how to post photos on here.  I haven't done it in years.

 

My blaster uses the following parts from a Sterling:

Both barrel ends, all sites, 2 blast deflectors, magazine, magazine slot, trigger assembly, folding stock.

I made the barrel out of PVC pipe to reduce weight.

i used a Blaster Core made by Plecter Labs: http://www.plecterlabs.com

You can select between having a red LED flash and white LEDs (stun mode).

When you fire it makes cool blaster sounds from the movie.

Edited October 7, 2014 by kiyotei

[kiyotei[TK]]

Here are links to pics.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 12, 2020 by Sly11
Edited to restore the image by Sly11, 2020

[kiyotei[TK]]

More pics

 

 

 

 

Edited September 12, 2020 by Sly11
Edited to restore the image by Sly11, 2020

[gazmosis[501st]]

Try a photo host like photobucket or flicker

[kiyotei[TK]]

Thanks, I switched to photobucket.  I used to use Image Shack but now they want to charge for full sized images.

 

Before anyone says it I know the wires are supposed to be black but I wanted to add some color to the blaster.

[kiyotei[TK]]

So let's start the build...The first thing is the Sterling kit I bought.  The photo below is NOT the exact kit I bought but it's a good photo of a kit.  My kit did not come with the internal working parts.  I don't know gun part names so that's as accurate as I can get.

 

 

Here are some of the parts you need to melt the braze joints on.  You want to remove the front sight, rear sight, blast deflectors, magazine well, rear locking mechanism...

 

 

I'm lucky and have a friend who has an Acetylene torch.  All the external parts you need to remove are brazed in place using a metal made of Brass and other stuff.  I used the torch to melt the braze joints.  One important thing we found was that all the parts (sights, magazine well, etc) have a metal nub which was used to hold them in place as they were brazed.  You need to look inside the barrel and grind down the nub BEFORE you try to melt the braze joint.  Here are some pics

 

Here is a pic showing a nub on the inside of the barrel.  Grind these down before applying the welding torch

 

Here is the nub ground down

 

Here is melting the braze joint.  You'll need to also tap the parts with a hammer to knock them off.  Tap gently or you might bend/dent the part.  This pic looks awesome but as it turns out the front site is two parts.  The outer shell must have the braze joint melted.  However the inner part of the sight slides out no braze joint.

 

 

Edited September 12, 2020 by Sly11
Edited to restore the image by Sly11, 2020

[kiyotei[TK]]

Here is the front sight with the outer shell removed.  The part you see in this pic just slides out, well kinda slides out, very tight fit.  You can also see the (small hole) where the metal mounting nub sat.

 

 

Here is the magazine well removed.  You can see the brass brazing material.

 

 

 

[kiyotei[TK]]

Before melting the braze joint on the rear locking mechanism, remove the spring.  If you heat the spring you will probably ruin it.  There is a little pin that holds it in place.  Here's a pic showing the spring removed

 

 

[kiyotei[TK]]

Here is a pic of the front sight being heated up to melt the braze joint.

 

 

I'm afraid I didn't take any pics of me mounting the parts.  But for each part drill a small hole in the barrel so that you can insert the metal nub to give you a stronger mounting.  I used epoxy.  Did you know you can get dye for epoxy?  Cool.  I used extra epoxy didn't worry if you could see it up close.  I call it a weld joint if anyone asks.

 

Here is the PVC barrel with the metal folding stock mounted.  I drilled a hole thru the base of the stock to attach it to the barrel.  You'll also need to cut a key way in the front of the barrel for the clip to fit in.  I also had to sand down the inside of the barrel where the clip goes because its gap is narrower than the barrel.  I know that makes no sense but when you get your hands on a real folding stock it will become clear.

 

 

Edited September 12, 2020 by Sly11
Edited to restore the image by Sly11, 2020

[usaeatt2]

Fun stuff!  Interested to see how this turns out with a PVC receiver.  Looks great so far!

[SeanTX]

Would a propane torch be enough to melt the brazing?

[gazmosis[501st]]

You'd probably need map gas rather than propane