Airbrush v. Spray paint

[F1guy]

Hey guys, as the research continues (going on 3 solid months) I wanted opinions on something.

 

How difficult is it to learn to airbrush? Is it worth buying a kit to paint up a bucket, or is good old Krylon the way to go?

[Starfox2010]

Depending on what you want to do with the airbrush.  You can use it from face painting to detailing small objects, plus you have way more colors to chose from (and a lot metter than a paint brush). 

The Spray paint you can only do so much and can only cover wide areas with fewer colors to chose from. 

 

To airbrush you will need the pump, airbrush (anywhere from $20-300), the paints, time to clean it out when changing colors, replace parts when they fail.

Spray paint you just need the can.

 

I have one and messed up a piece and couldn't find it anywhere.  Once im done with my build and recover some $ that I spent.  I am looking on getting a new one to do some blasters and details.

 

Hope this helps.

[F1guy]

Thanks for the tip. I'm looking at getting an ATA bucket, and I want to actually paint the tube stripes on. Is spray paint good to go with here, or is the $70 Amazon kit good?

[ABS80]

try Tamiya model paint spray cans its the closest match to a airbrush flow, the paint comes out very very thin made for small scale objects, regular krylon ect  paints is meant for larger areas, way too much paint comes out of it and will bleed threw fines maskings

 

Mark

[gazmosis[501st]]

Airbrushes are priced by function and precision. You could spend between $70 and $400 depending on what you want to accomplish. Spray cans dispense an amount of paint that cannot under any circumstance be precisely controlled. Airbrushes have that capability. As with anything, there are pros and cons. I have always relied on the Paasche VL. This a double action airbrush that has settings that allow you to dial in exactly how much paint comes out at the press of the release button. It is VERY affordable. At around $125, you get the whole kit which includes bottles, hose, and some replacement parts. You can buy just the brush at about $80, but why not get everything?

Now, you also need a compressor. These can be obtained afford ably.  Your paint will almost always need to be thinned unless your paint specifically says "Airbrush ready". If you are not ready to thoroughly clean your airbrush after EVERY use, don;t buy one. I have been using the same airbrush for 35 years. because I clean the hell out of it after every use.  You will need some practice with both paint thinning and air pressure. IF your paint is not thin enough the paint pattern will spit chunks, if it's too thin or the air pressure is too high, your pattern will look like an octopus or spider ...far from even. But once you get all these things dialed in, you will never go back. I have used mine from TK's to cake decorating to applying Darth Maul make-up for a Garrison mate. 

[F1guy]

Thanks for the info! I'm looking at the Master Airbrush kit on Amazon. Is it a good kit?

[F1guy]

What I like is that it looks decent. It's got a compressor, and much of the basic stuff. If I throw in $30 more, I'll get the cleaning stuff to boot.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Thanks for the info! I'm looking at the Master Airbrush kit on Amazon. Is it a good kit?

I have a Master G44 kit with compressor and paints and stuff like that. It's an Iwata clone. It works well, but I think the chroming could be a bit better as it's flaked off a little (not on any important parts yet though).

 

And like Steve says, airbrushes are extremely versatile, but if you are not ready to commit some time to learn how to get the right paint consistency (not that hard) and to clean it like a mad man (pain in the butt) after every use, you might want to look for something easier. On the other hand, if you can live with the cleaning, you'll be happy you got it. I sure am, and I'm by no means an artist. I just tinker with stuff that occasionally need painting.

 

If you do decide to get one, make sure you have proper cleaning supplies before you even think about using it, and consider getting some needle-lube to smooth out the action of all parts. Also practice taking it apart and putting it back together, as you will need to do this when cleaning it.

[gazmosis[501st]]

Cleaning kits are over rated in my experience. If I am using enamels like Humbrols or Testors, I just pour mineral spirits in a bowl and use a pipe cleaner and squeeze bulb for paint. (It's like a long eye dropper sold right next to the model paint supplies). For water based, I just use.......water. And a pipe cleaner.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Well, mineral spirits are basically what you have to use with enamel paints. Windex works for acrylics, but the brand-name cleaning fluid works even better.

[F1guy]

What about the "ready to airbrush" paints that are on the market currently?

[gazmosis[501st]]

I personally have never paid much attention to those but you can research them by maker.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Those are thinned out acrylic. A lot more expensive than DIY with non-airbrush ready (from the same brand). But they are handy.

 

What's good to keep in mind is that model paints are high-pigment. Which makes them more expensive than your $1/gallon (insert random price) acrylics. It is what allows you to get vibrant colour even when thinned out.

[F1guy]

So is acrylic the way to go? Are water-based paints ideal?

[Locitus[Admin]]

So is acrylic the way to go? Are water-based paints ideal?

If you like things to be easy and not kill you as quickly, yes. But get breathing protection anyway. Even water based acrylics aren't that good for you when you get them into your lungs.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Acrylics are easy to work with. They're easy to apply, easy to thin, easy to wash, etc... Enamels can more tricky if you're not used in dealing with paint and stuff like that, but i find them a lot more resistant. Once completely dried it's more difficult to damage or scratch them than acrylic based paints.

 

However if you seal your acrylics with a good varnish once finished you should get a good protection too.