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Posted

As Germain says, you really need to tape them up in approximate position and have your arm straight to make an real informed decision. You can see here forearm is basically touching the bicep in all cases (hmmm, better go re-check mine)

 

med_gallery_14191_18_118398.jpg

Posted

Will re do this photo tonight, with straight arm, thanks you for your advice

 

 

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Posted

OK Take      two on the arm alignment, how about this.

 

CCY5IhG.jpg

 

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sKKdSBD.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

That looks perfect, assuming you can still move. Also you're possibly not sure exactly where that shoulder bell will sit. Personally, I got the main torso clamshell done first, then started hanging bits off that. That way I knew exactly where bits were going to be positioned.

Posted

Good point Ian.

Posted

OK, all you AP Stunt gurus out there.

Do these look like the correct halves are together, photo is as you are looking at a trooper, i have put Land R under them.

 

Mark from AP did send me a photo of the parts laid out and mentions one piece has a raised detail, which I have assumed is the ridge that runs down the front (the part you trim for size)

 

F6ri9oU.jpg

 

Posted (edited)

You're a busy guy, Andrew!  I'll be following along on your AP build since I'm at essentially the same point as you with my AP armor.

 

One suggestion - You might want to do just a little more eye trimming.  I asked a lot of questions on the eye trimming and was told to keep trimming several times.  I ended up with absolutely no return edge in the "eye socket".  It appears you still have just the slightest little bit left.  It's hard to describe, but this is what I took away from the experience:  1) Remove all of the return edge around the perimeter of the eye socket.  2) Once the edge is completely flush with the eye socket, remove about one thickness of your ABS (about 1 mm) from the rear of the eye socket, making the eye socket more shallow.  It's funny how you get to know the "lines" of each helmet after carefully working on them for hours on end...when I started, all helmets looked roughly the same to me, but I think I'm getting pretty good at spotting an AP helmet without hesitation now.  Here are a few shots from my AP build:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Sly11
Unable to restore broken image links. Sly11
Posted (edited)

Here are my thoughs about the shins:

edit

 

So it seems you have them paired right but you placed the left one on the right leg.

Edited by The5thHorseman
Posted

That's what I was thinking, but mark from AP just got back to me as i sent him the same pic and says it is correct.

I am know very confused, thank you for your input Germain.

Posted

Based on the curves of the 'calf muscle', and the way the inner parts curve in more at the ankle, my vote is that you have it right in the pictures. (Disclaimer: the 'R' shin is a little off centre in the image, so hard to tell for sure)

Posted (edited)

Well, looking at it again, i you indeed have them right! Apologies for almost misleading you...

Edited by The5thHorseman
Posted

Thanks guys, my confidence is restored.

Posted

Moved back onto the fore arms, and was itching to get something else assembled, so here they are.

No return edge on front. Might as well build towards centurion, even though I don't want to cut the section out of the kidney plate, as it will be in the wrong position so I don't see the point.

 

0QRWyhr.jpg

 

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Posted

helmet eyes have flashing at the top.  they should not always be fully trimmed

forearm cover strips follow the angles at the elbow.

you can cut the kidney notch, and it won't affect the look, since the belt covers that.

Posted

Thanks Vern.

I did follow screen shots of the helmets, so i will leave the small amount of Flashing there.

 

Just to clarify what you mean by the "cover strip following the angles at the elbow"?  do you mean i can trim the top of the cover strip at a slight angle to follow the line of the forearm behind piece behind it?

or simply cut them a little shorter.

These babies are put together with Zappa gap, so not coming apart easily.

 

I appreciate your input.

Posted

The next topic.

How do I work out which part is which and L or R on the AP thighs?

Posted

Yes, you can trim the forearms cover stripes at the top so they follow the line of the forearm. It won't hurt the accuracy and should ease your movements when bending your arms:

med_gallery_12157_59_74335.jpg

 

About the thighs, the inner halves are curved in a "S" shape at the top to fit better with the cod. Once you got the two inner halves, finding the matching pairs should be easy.

dsc_0210.jpg

Posted

Think I worked out the thighs, rough tape job at the mo.

 

qdAqhe4.jpg

 

Posted

Cover strips for the Back of thighs and shins. Is it 25mm, or is 20 still the most accurate?

 

 

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Posted

20mm for the front and back cover stripes is the most accurate, though 25mm at the back is commonly accepted if you feel like you need more surface for the glue to hold.

Posted

I have cut 25mm, but recon I could get away with 20mm, in saying that, the extra surface area for the Velcro on back of the shins would be better.

Thigh and shin/calf area would look better from rear at the same size.

Posted

I have a bicep question.
Do I line up the bottoms and leave the tops uneven, as the cover strips will cover the height difference ?

 

bKuNA1m.jpg


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Posted

Trimmed the cover strips a little on forearms

 

cjk9rGI.jpg

 

Posted (edited)

Line up the bottoms of the biceps, the tops will be hidden by the shoulder bells anyways. Trim up the top corners so they don't snag on your undershirt. Forearms look great! :duim:

Edited by Slangen
Posted

Slowly getting parts assembled. Biceps now glued.

Had a look at the sniper plate attachment to the shin, very difficult to line up I must say, and not exactly sure how much to trim out of the back of the plate to get it fitting right..

 

njONudj.jpg

 

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