Rubber Resin DLT-19 Build

[2thin[501st]]

This is my first build thread ever so bear with me. I recently received this kit I purchased off the main legion boards. The reason I chose this one over the others is because of the material it's made out of. Since it's made of a rubber-like resin material, it won't shatter like regular resin and still shows good detail. Besides durability and detail, I also wanted a blaster that could eventually be modded with electronics and other things. So after discovering this kit I immediately ordered it. I realized as soon as I got it that I'm in a little over my head.

I decided to start a build thread in order to seek help from all of you because I'm new to this sort of thing and don't know much 

A couple questions... what's the best way to have the blaster be able to split into two parts for transportation without having to worry about the barrel falling off in the middle of a troop? And would a Hyperdyne Labs lighting kit be able to be integrated into this?

 

Any help would be extremely appreciated! 

 

Here is what I got straight out of the box

 

And here is my progress so far, basically just cut off most of the excess resin with a hobby knife. I'm going to use a dremel next and then start sanding. 

 

 

If you all want better photos or to see something specific just let me know. I'll be posting more as this comes together. And thanks in advance for any advice! 

Edited August 21, 2014 by 2thin

[Snaps[TK]]

Have thought about doing one of these...will be following! Best of luck in your project!

[Rhino76076[501st]]

ive also got myself one of these that im yet to start on. ill be watching your build closely 2thin

[2thin[501st]]

Thanks! There aren't many tutorials for this sort of thing, I eventually gave up looking and decided to just ask for advice directly. I'm bound to mess up on some things so don't follow too closely lol  If anyone has this same kit, are the pieces supposed to be kind of sticky? I'm assuming once painted they obviously won't feel that way anymore. 

[Rhino76076[501st]]

Mine has been sitting around for a week or 2 it's lost alot of its stickiness I think it's still curing that's why its so sticky at 1st

[Rhino76076[501st]]

Mine has been sitting around for a week or 2 it's lost alot of its stickiness I think it's still curing that's why its so sticky at 1st

[2thin[501st]]

Made a little more progress yesterday. The holes in the barrel were drilled out using a 1/4" drill bit followed by a 1/4" Dremel sanding wheel to completely clean the rest of the resin out. I know it's supposed to have a solid barrel inside so I'll be adding a thin copper tube towards the very end of this build. But it will be temporary until I get electronics installed. 

 

I also found this Elmer's wood filler stuff at Home Depot that did a good job at filling in all the air bubbles and imperfections. You just have to wait a couple hours before sanding. 

 

I decided to use the Rustoleum High Performance Enamel Spray Paint and so far in the priming stages it's staying on very well. I only primed the T-racks so far. 

 

I'm still trying to figure things out with how I'm going to attach the barrel. So far the plan is to drill a deep 1/2" hole down the stock and hope it provides enough friction and support to keep the barrel from falling out, but I have a couple other ideas. Tomorrow I'll try to get that out of the way and finish cleaning up all the details so it's ready for paint. 

 

 

[2thin[501st]]

I got a lot of work done yesterday. I completely finished cutting out all the details and sanded everything. And I figured out how to make the barrel removable.

 

I decided to use a long 3/4" drill bit and drill a hole in the front of the stock about 5" down and another hole in the front muzzle about an inch down. After test fitting the pieces together it stayed in surprisingly well. Since the blaster had an inner barrel, I found a 1/2" aluminum pipe that fit perfectly. In order to keep it centered without permanently gluing it in (because I want to add lights in the future) I drilled a 1/2" wide hole further down both parts of the blaster and made sure the aluminum pipe was a couple inches longer than the barrel of the blaster.

 

 

Here was the first test fit and I was very happy with the results. 

 

After getting that out of the way. I wanted to make the flip up iron sight movable. So I carefully cut it out and will be gluing in a little pin so it can flip up and down. Eventually I'll hopefully get a real metal one as well as a working bipod.

 

 

Here are the pieces with their first coat of black paint. I should have the basic blaster finished tomorrow. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Rhino76076[501st]]

good job mate how did drill the main body out that's the part im dreading trying to find dead centre so the barrel and body align spot on

[2thin[501st]]

Thanks! I'll be posting up the finished product tomorrow. I know, drilling that out was scary. All i can really say is I got lucky with the placement. And even if it's a little bit off, you can always trim the stock's front end where it's needed. If it helps, I found the center for the hole to drill for me to be about 1 3/4" for the side and about 7/8" for the top of it. I highly encourage the aluminum barrel btw if you're going to drill the holes out, it keeps it from sagging and looks really nice. 

 

[2thin[501st]]

Okay, so the blaster is finished! (Except for the electronics and eventual upgrades) 

I found this wire in the aisle with all the screws and nails at home depot and it worked perfectly and only cost $2. 

 

Here is the finished barrel before being weathered. 

 

And after

 

And the rest of the shots. Pictures do not do this blaster justice.

 

Besides painting the stock Bakelite, I'd say its pretty much done and I'm very happy with how it turned out. I'll update in the future once i get the funds and figure out how to rig it with a lighting kit. 

 

[AFMedic]

I just got my kit in the mail and am searching for build threads. Thank you for having one. I'll add mine to the forum once I get going. Some questions:

1. What expoxy/glue did you use? I'm not sure what the material is to get the right adhesive

2. What is the block for? I'm still trying to figure thatt out. If you could show a picture it would be appreciated.

3. I assume I should wash in soapy water the pieces to get the 'release' off. Did you?

4. Mine seems tacky (not without style, but sticky). Was yours, did it cure to a point where it wasn't, did you just ignore this?

5. Are you aware of any other build threads for the same rubber resin kit?

 

Thanks, AFMedic

[Sly11[Admin]]

Where do I find one of these rubber resin DLT 19 kits, I'm keen to find out a price so I can plan to get one.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[2thin[501st]]

Sorry I haven't checked this post in a while.

I just got my kit in the mail and am searching for build threads. Thank you for having one. I'll add mine to the forum once I get going. Some questions:
1. What expoxy/glue did you use? I'm not sure what the material is to get the right adhesive
2. What is the block for? I'm still trying to figure thatt out. If you could show a picture it would be appreciated.
3. I assume I should wash in soapy water the pieces to get the 'release' off. Did you?
4. Mine seems tacky (not without style, but sticky). Was yours, did it cure to a point where it wasn't, did you just ignore this?
5. Are you aware of any other build threads for the same rubber resin kit?

Thanks, AFMedic

 

John, if you still need the help

1) I used a 5 minute rubber epoxy for big parts and super glue for everything else. I've trooped with it about 20 times now and it's still in perfect condition.

2)The block is the feed cover which was added onto the left side of the blaster. You can see it in the picture where I'm showing the drill hole measurements.

3)Yes, wash everything!

4)It remains tacky until the paint layers are finally applied. Primer, lots of black, clear coat.

5) I think I am the only one haha

 

Andrew, this is where I found the post http://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24162&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=6b18eb7148a8731f9049462016e47892

I don't know for sure if he is still producing them. Make sure you email instead of PM Niko since he states that he doesn't check PMs often. 

[toybiz[TK]]

Thank you for sharing Chance. I guess since that thread wasn't very recent, the got buried. I did email Niko and waiting to hear back from him.

[HansDC[TK]]

Hi there Chance! Finished product looks the bomb!

Was wondering if you could give us a few pointers....

I just got the same resin kit and have got as far as filling the bubbles and missing bits from the mould. Kinda stuck trying to figure out the best way to put the pieces together - namely drilling the main connecting holes and how to secure them. Im also hoping to be able to have it in two pieces at least so its easier to transport. 

The main barrel comes with a long PVC pipe with the mould around it. But the butt end only has the pipe in the actual butt I guess to hold the mould. In your image, did you insert a tube of some sort in it after you drilled the joining hole?

 

There is also what looks like a bolt and nut that has been moulded at the connecting ends. I was thinking I could use an actual bolt and nut to secure the two main pieces together. 

 

I've cleaned the barrel holes out up to the PVC pipe. In my E-11 blaster I have the same holes drilled right through so you can see through them. You mentioned something about the real thing not having the holes go all the way through? So do I/can I drill them all the way? Im not really thinking about electronics this time around if that helps. Might go try and find an aluminium pipe tomorrow...

 

As you would have figured out already I have no idea about real guns, let alone an MG like this. I've never seen one for real so I don't know it works and what all the parts are and what they do. Im just going by what the internet has provided thus far. 

Any help and advice would be great! Ive always wanted one of these since I was a kid!

CHEERS!!!

 

Edited December 28, 2014 by HansDC

[2thin[501st]]

Hi there Chance! Finished product looks the bomb!

 

Was wondering if you could give us a few pointers....

 

I just got the same resin kit and have got as far as filling the bubbles and missing bits from the mould. Kinda stuck trying to figure out the best way to put the pieces together - namely drilling the main connecting holes and how to secure them. Im also hoping to be able to have it in two pieces at least so its easier to transport. 

 

The main barrel comes with a long PVC pipe with the mould around it. But the butt end only has the pipe in the actual butt I guess to hold the mould. In your image, did you insert a tube of some sort in it after you drilled the joining hole?

 

There is also what looks like a bolt and nut that has been moulded at the connecting ends. I was thinking I could use an actual bolt and nut to secure the two main pieces together. 

 

I've cleaned the barrel holes out up to the PVC pipe. In my E-11 blaster I have the same holes drilled right through so you can see through them. You mentioned something about the real thing not having the holes go all the way through? So do I/can I drill them all the way? Im not really thinking about electronics this time around if that helps. Might go try and find an aluminium pipe tomorrow...

 

As you would have figured out already I have no idea about real guns, let alone an MG like this. I've never seen one for real so I don't know it works and what all the parts are and what they do. Im just going by what the internet has provided thus far. 

Any help and advice would be great! Ive always wanted one of these since I was a kid!

 

CHEERS!!!

 

 

Awesome, thanks!

I didn't find a tube that could hold it any more secure then the actual drilled stock could. If you somehow make something that works let me know. I've trooped with it a few times and haven't had any real problems with it slipping out. But I'm also careful with it. Ideally I wanted to makes some sort of interlocking mechanism where I'd push the barrel in and turn it to lock it in place.

 

Yeah, I cut that bolt thing out but also had the same idea. Again, if you can make that work I'd love to see how! I put some velcro in that area which helped a little. 

 

As far as barrel holes go they are cut all the way through to expose the inner barrel that the actual bullet would be fired through. This allows it to be cooled faster by the air outside. However since this is rubbery, the integrity of the barrel is compromised and starts to bend. The aluminum barrel fixes that and makes it look more realistic. BUT, if you don't care about electronics you can forego drilling all the way through and adding the inner barrel. It'll look just fine with the pvc and probably save you from some headaches.

 

Trust me I've been confused the whole way through with this gun as well lol

[HansDC[TK]]

Thanks for your response!

Ok cool, I kinda get the idea sorta. I had in my head how I could put it together (the easiest way), but I imagined I wouldn't be able to be too rough with it on troops or hand it over confidently to randoms to have a play. Everyone else's build looks super solid. But I guess no one really knows until they actually hold one. 

I really like the look of the barrel holes drilled through. But you're right. I fear with all the holes in the PVC, it won't hold straight. Im thinking of your aluminium tube idea but permanently attaching the alu tube into the PVC one and then drilling through the whole lot. What do you think?

We had a massive old school crew Xmas party the other day and most of my older mates were there who are mostly tradesmen and builders. They laughed at my project at first (especially the trooper part), but when I showed them pics of this kit and some pics of finished ones - they were quick to give suggestions. Some said that I could take it in to a fitter & tuner and get them to machine the  joining parts. This way its got industrial strength/accurate fittings and the gun will never come lose when locked in. This seems a little extreme tho for a prop gun I think. Another suggested plastic conduit joints that screw in both ends. Just drill to size, embed them and you should be able to screw both ends in. I just don't like the idea of having to screw the gun together because it might not align perfectly. If it was just slide n' lock life would be so much better. 

Anyways I just waiting for another mate to have a free day so he can help me figure it out. He has a shed full of tools and he's confident we should be able to work it out. 
Will try and start a thread once I get a little further in the process. Still trying to fill all the bubbles in the mould and reshape certain corners. 

Edited December 29, 2014 by HansDC

[2thin[501st]]

Thanks for your response!

 

Ok cool, I kinda get the idea sorta. I had in my head how I could put it together (the easiest way), but I imagined I wouldn't be able to be too rough with it on troops or hand it over confidently to randoms to have a play. Everyone else's build looks super solid. But I guess no one really knows until they actually hold one. 

 

I really like the look of the barrel holes drilled through. But you're right. I fear with all the holes in the PVC, it won't hold straight. Im thinking of your aluminium tube idea but permanently attaching the alu tube into the PVC one and then drilling through the whole lot. What do you think?

 

We had a massive old school crew Xmas party the other day and most of my older mates were there who are mostly tradesmen and builders. They laughed at my project at first (especially the trooper part), but when I showed them pics of this kit and some pics of finished ones - they were quick to give suggestions. Some said that I could take it in to a fitter & tuner and get them to machine the  joining parts. This way its got industrial strength/accurate fittings and the gun will never come lose when locked in. This seems a little extreme tho for a prop gun I think. Another suggested plastic conduit joints that screw in both ends. Just drill to size, embed them and you should be able to screw both ends in. I just don't like the idea of having to screw the gun together because it might not align perfectly. If it was just slide n' lock life would be so much better. 

 

Anyways I just waiting for another mate to have a free day so he can help me figure it out. He has a shed full of tools and he's confident we should be able to work it out. 

Will try and start a thread once I get a little further in the process. Still trying to fill all the bubbles in the mould and reshape certain corners. 

I think the problem with this model is trying to get something inside the stock to actually hold it together. The twist lock method I thought of seems impossible to actually get inside the thing. Remember there's not a lot of space to mess around with.

 

Permanently attaching the aluminum barrel should be just fine. Just make sure its centered into the part of the flash hider end before you glue it on so it sits in right. I think I showed that I drilled a hole further down for the correct size in it. 

 

The machined parts does sound a little over the top but if you do it, make an extra set for me! I was considering the screw on method but thats correct, theres no way to make it align correctly every time. Friction seems like the only way.

 

Good luck, I really want to see what can be done. 

[Waxy]

Hey there guys, just putting together my DLT-19 and I have a suggestion.

 

If you are going for the Alum tube in the centre but you're worried about the drilling position in the main stock then may I suggest you cut off the PVC at the end of the barrel that connects to the stock so that it sits flush and then drill the hole to suit the alum tube only. This can be accurately determined by turning the alum tube and pushing against the stock which should easily mark the resin and create a nice template- then drill about an inch at a time and recheck to make sure everything remains straight and flush.

 

 

NOTE: This must be done BEFORE the flash suppressor is glued to the barrel!

 

Cheers

[Heinous[TK]]

I've just got one of these to build. The bolt thread and nut that is cast on the stock end of the barrel do you cut that off or drill a hole in the mating part on the stock for it?

I got no instructions with it so I'm a newb. I've only built one E-11 doopy doo. Thats my total experience.

[Waxy]

Cut it off (the thread) but leave the hex bolt part and sand it flat to that part- then drill a 22mm hole with a spade bit to glue at the end of the barrel.

 

Don't drill right the way through with the 22mm bit probably about 1- 1.5 inches is fine depending on how much of the pvc pipe is at the end.

 

Have fun

[2thin[501st]]

I didn't think the aluminum would be capable enough on its own to support the resin front half, there's a decent amount of weight in the front I think. More surface area = more friction. 

And yeah that bolt thing should work, I'll be doing that soon myself. 

[HansDC[TK]]

When I was at the hardware store buying the pipe, I had a choice of aluminium or steel. Went for steel cos it wasn't as likely to bend at the aluminium one. 

It also added a bit of extra weight which I don't mind. 

 

Bolt idea was a bit of a pain - cos mine is really really snug. But it works and it adds a nice detail to the finished product. 

Just make sure your main 22mm hole is straight on both the stock and the flash thingy on the front. Helps if you have another set of eyes to guide the drilling process especially if you don't have a drill press. 

Good luck. Mine is almost ready! Can't wait to see yours (Heinous)!

Edited January 11, 2015 by HansDC

[Waxy]

a question for the wire- on the picture I couldn't see where your connections were or how you did it- can you please explain and show a close up of how you secured the wire?

 

 

Thanks

Edited January 14, 2015 by Waxy