TT8s AM Armor Build

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

So I have three choices for glue/adhesives and I tried one, Zap-A-Gap and I am so thankful I have 2 extra left shins to practice on......or I should say 1 left now before it counts! This came with the armor but I might buy E6000.

[Sly11[Admin]]

If you are unsure, always go the easy fix route, that would be E6000.

Once confident, Zap a gap will save time, but is an absolute bugger, to try and pull apart as I am figuring, you have found out.

The AbS weld on not too sure about, perhaps it is in the name. It may partially melt the ABS to form a permanent bond.

I'd go with the E6000 you just need patience while it is bonding as it will take 24 hrs to set.

[Snaps[TK]]

Looking good....I agree with the e6000 as a lot of troopers will. It'll make it a ton easier when you have to make adjustments as you go along! Looks like you can drop a black stripe on the back of the helmet and space them out a little bit more.

 

Best of luck

[fuumantroop[TK]]

Im curious of that abs weld as well. May use it for my practice shin to see how it holds and how hard it is to come apart. But i will agree with E6k. Definitely using it for my second helmet build for the cap and back

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

I'm going to try the ABS. I have another shin and I have been tanking my time so we shall see. My resin cast E-11 arrived! Now to put it together? I had to ad some more questions......

 

1-the rear of the shins; Velcro or hook straps. Which side of the leg gets the strip glued to it, inside or outside?

2-trimming of the return edges? Where it is acceptable to completely remove it, bottom of shins and wrists?

Edited August 12, 2014 by TriumphTrooper8

[Sly11[Admin]]

Definitely bottom of the wrists, Shins may come down to fit and comfort as far as return edges are concerned.

The closure of the shins must overlap outside over inside.

The E11 is great fun to assemble and paint, enjoy

[Snaps[TK]]

The velcro / hooks is a preference....The accurate way is hooks but some go for velcro. I did velcro cause it was easier

 

Here's a pic for the shims, works for thighs and shins. Sorry couldn't find an image with the hooks but it works the same and you can check out trooperbay's how-to video's on you-tube as he does the hooks.

 

Edited August 12, 2014 by Slangen

[maxsteele[TK]]

Absolutely remove the return edge on the bottom of the shins.  Otherwise they'll dig into your boots.  That will also affect the fit of the shins, so make sure you have the return edges down there removed before fitting them around your legs.

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

Will do! I don't need rubbed up TK boots unless I want a reason to for TD!

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

Ok here we go........well I started on the Ab plate and installed the snaps for the belt, drilled holes for the side snap, right side and the three left side rivets. I have a few questions:

 

-The ab to kidney plate how much wiggle room should there be? Slightly snug, about an inch or?

-Should the belt overlap the center bottom button(s)? If I put my snaps in the middle (horizontal) of the belt it looks like the ammo pack may cover the bottom button.

-The ammo pack on the belt does it rivet, standard snap rivets or snaps so it's removable?

-last one.....how do the hanging ammo boxes connect to the belt?

[maxsteele[TK]]

Ab to Kidney plate - Make it comfortable but also try to make the two edges touch each other.  Don't kill yourself, but you want this transition to be as close as possible.

 

Belt overlap - Ideally, the belt overlap is the bottom rivet only:

 

 

 

Belt Plastic - I used chicago screws to attach it to the belt.  I like the ability to remove it from the cloth belt if I need to.  I used the 3/16" screws from Ace Hardware:

 

 

 

Ammo boxes - I did some looking on Wookiepedia, and found out that those are actually blast energy sinks.   :

 

http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Stormtrooper_armor

 

As for attaching them,  attach one end of the elastic to the back of the ammo box, wrap it around the belt, and attach the other end.  Some people use rivets, some people glue them, some people use velcro.  Search around on the forums to find all the different ways people have done it and choose one that works best for you.

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

I managed to actually finish the belt. I have about an 1/8" gap between the drop boxes and the belt and also flush with the end of the belt. All that is left is to put the covers on for the three fasteners. The holster also is attached.

 

 

 

I figured out the helmet issue I was having with the left ear. Its was having two different ears since I got 2 helmets. I also had to get the left tube pulled upward more and it was done by adding another screw. The ear fits just like the right side. Its paint and install. All that is left on that is to get the padding in, teeth screen and darker eyes. I am still waiting n the eyes and teeth screen!

 

 

I got the three left side straps and rivets installed on the Ab plate with the brackets and 1" black loops for the chest plate. I looked at a bunch of pictures and it is mention in 501 that the upper left on the Ab has a male snap. All I could find showed a male snap mounted inward for a strap? Is this correct or do I need to remove it and attach a strap on the inside and have a male snap on the outside that is redundant?

 

I was going to work on the shoulders but I looked at all my parts and besides the Ab and part of the kidney I have to reduce the return edges. I also have to do the square or corner notches on the lower left and right corners of the kidney plate. On a typical trimming of the return edges what is a safe minimum to leave behind? 1/16", 1/8"? I know the front of the wrists and top back of the forearms can have the return edge removed in addition to the bottom of the shins for the boots. Any where else?

 

One last question is about the back plate does it have to connect to the top of the kidney plate? If it cannot can I use strapping to connect it to the chest late under the arms? I remember seeing a picture from Star Wars that might have shown that used or is that an isolated case?

[Sly11[Admin]]

Make sure you remove all of the the return edge at your wrists on the fore arms.

Belt and holster looking good.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Have a look at a bunch of EIB/Centurion or build threads on how they do their strapping. Basically, yes the back and kidney is connected, but no strapping methods are compulsory. The male snap on the right can be functional or not. Doesn't matter. I added a second snap (on a plate) to make mine functional to close the clamshell.

 

No return edge on the wrist end of the forearm is mandatory. Everything else on your limbs is optional. Torso pieces generally have a 5-8mm edge on them. Check out some of the photo references for details, or recommendations from Gazmosis in the EIB/Centurion threads.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

The shiny bits on your belt - are they just the rivets joining the plastic to the fabric? You've still got to put your rivet covers on, do you?

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

Rivet covers have not been installed yet. I glued the river back to the ammo belt so it won't slip if I have to take it off.

 

I see on most some noticeable return edges and other none. I am going to put the clam shell 2 front pieces and 3 rear for the torso and see how much I have to remove from the crotch and shoulders.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

I see on most some noticeable return edges and other none.

 

Exactly. Personal preference. Even in the photo reference section, there are variations.

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

Ok here is a stupid question.......the ear screws do they get painted white?

[Rystan]

Ok here is a stupid question.......the ear screws do they get painted white?

 

Yes, they do.

 

 

from: http://starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

Now I'm bothered by my tube stripes that need to be moved forward one stripe and the vertical stripes on the back of the Helmet need to be longer and thinner. I'm tempted to paint the inside of the helmet satin black too.......decisions, decisions!

[Sly11[Admin]]

If you paint the inside of your helmet, it's going to smell of the paint for a while, sometimes the fumes can be quite strong, so be mindful of what you might paint it with.

I think Plasti dip has come up a few times as a good product to use.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Sly11[Admin]]

Ear screws painted white

Ab screws painted white

Crotch screws Do not paint.

Extra snap on Ab top right , Do not paint

Ammo belt on knee, Rivets painted white

 

I think that's all.....

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[gazmosis[501st]]

Make sure you extend the frown a bit from that last tooth dent. It should taper down to a point. Nice work so far!

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

I did notice the corner of the frown/mouth has a round ends with nothing beyond? So can I just paint the rest to a point?

[TriumphTrooper8[501st]]

Ok I put the 15x10mm notch on the bottom corners of my kidney plate and now do I trim the side of the butt plate so the edge lines up with the notch(es)?