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Posted

I took the dive, ordered a kit from AM and even managed to get an extra helmet just in case for this rookie! I have a 26x30 garage with 12' walls that I had a loft built to accommodate an office and now its my build center! I used a left over kitchen counter top to make a desk and rounded up supplies & tools. I managed to assemble the helmet that I had a slight hiccup but over came it. Now its paint and final assembly.

 

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Posted

Did ya end up just following the pre made dimples to screw the face and cap/back together?

Posted

I did and the only quirk was getting the left ear to fit. I fought it for about 2 hours and I'm ok with it but I think it will need some massaging! I did end up with some extra holes. I can say the bottom dimple hole for the ear does not line up but all the others do including the right ear that fit perfectly. The brow with using all the dimples looks like if fit well!

 

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Posted

So what are the advantages and disadvantages of painting the inside of the helmet flat or satin black? I'm considering it but I like the original look and feel.

Posted

Ok one or a few more questions:

- what is a typical space between the shoulders of the back and chest plate? Additionally the sides under the arms too?

-the (3) rivets on the left side of the ab plate are to be 10mm from the edge so is that from the center of the rivet head or the edge of the rivet head?

-the (1) rivet on the right upper corner of the ab plate does that have a specific location?

-the finish strips for the biceps, forearms, thighs and shins what is the minimum width? 7/8"?

Posted

The finishing strips for the forearms and biceps are 15 mm. The calves and thighs are 20mm, That's all I know how to answer as of right now. And I love the set-up! Also, did you get two left calves as well?

Posted

Ok one or a few more questions:

- what is a typical space between the shoulders of the back and chest plate? Additionally the sides under the arms too?

-the (3) rivets on the left side of the ab plate are to be 10mm from the edge so is that from the center of the rivet head or the edge of the rivet head?

-the (1) rivet on the right upper corner of the ab plate does that have a specific location?

-the finish strips for the biceps, forearms, thighs and shins what is the minimum width? 7/8"?

 

According to this picture from the Lucas Archives that I found in Billhag's collection with measurments shows it being 10mm to center of the rivets.

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Posted

I did and the only quirk was getting the left ear to fit. I fought it for about 2 hours and I'm ok with it but I think it will need some massaging! I did end up with some extra holes. I can say the bottom dimple hole for the ear does not line up but all the others do including the right ear that fit perfectly. The brow with using all the dimples looks like if fit well!

 

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Ok so I'm not the only one whose ear doesn't go to the bottom lip

Posted

I tried all I could to get that darn ear down! If it had more meat on it I am sure it would have but the "s" seal does a good job of taking away from noticing since its no symmetrical anyway!

Posted

Painting the inside of your bucket is a personal thing. One thing the guys in my garrison say, is that it stops light from shining through the thinner parts of the helmet, making it darker inside, hence it is harder to see up inside from a child's stand point looking up.

 

Cover strips on arms 15mm on legs 20mm at front. You can go wider at back of legs if necessary, due to your actual thigh size. It seems many have 25mm at the rear.

Posted

This AM helmet and kit is pretty thick for ABS. I can always paint it later.

 

Ok so about 5/8" (.625") for the arms, the legs a bit ore than 3/4" (.75" vs. .787" with conversion) I should be able to match the fronts of each for the backs. I don't have huge legs or arms.

 

Friday I am going to go crazy with the armor since I have the day off!

Posted

Remember to keep everything looking proportionate and measure twice, cut once.

Your helmet is looking real good by the way, great work

Posted

Well I think I am over the "rusty-painter" stage. I got my groove on and just went with freehand and left the tape on the shelf. I like how so far this is turning out. The paint is really nice and when it is given the cure time before another coat can be put on there is no doubt about coverage. The replacement shins for my "two-left" shin syndrome will be here tomorrow. The blaster resin kit also should be next week and I have no excuses but time & patience. I got all the "correct" fasteners and brackets! Thanks Echo & Mr. No Stripes!

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Posted

Did ya line up the back and face before installing the cap?

Posted

I did align the front and back halves of the helmet, bolt them together with one bolt on the right side and two on the left then put the cap on to see where it fit and looked best with the brow on. The cap has some wiggle room for fine adjusting but overall the helmet besides one side was really straight forward. I have seen some that out of the box glue the cap to the rear half and then install the face/front half.

Posted

Thats what i did for my first bucket, glued the cap and back first. Thinking of trying your idea for my second one

Posted (edited)

After reading what replied with.......I ended up in the end after doing a trial/rough assembly pulling it all apart and gluing the cap to the back half. I did get a second helmet kit that may turn TD or use the lessons learned on this one and make it better for a TK and TD this one? Who knows? I am now looking into the chest and back plates how they will look and what needs to be trimmed. The look really big and I hope its the extra material that needs to be trimmed off. My "two Left Shins" should be taken care of today by Santa Claus......oh I meant the UPS man. He shows up around 2pm!

Edited by TriumphTrooper8
Posted

Now I am done with the major painting and I like the result but I am not happy with the black outline of the ears. Does it look too thin?

 

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