AM 2.0 build (ANH Stunt) by Rystan

[Rystan]

After spending all yesterday and this morning refreshing the UPS website and fuming over the fact that my armor was shipped from CA to Buffalo in NY by way of Syracuse.  [since it was shipped UPS ground, this means the brown box drove through Buffalo to get to Syracuse (about 2 hours east of here) only to turn around and get driven back west to be delivered.]  Regardless, it was promised to be here today, and indeed it arrived today, so no harm no foul.

 

 

 

Obligatory brown box photo:

 

 

When it arrived, my wife asked: "More nerd stuff?"  Yup! And that was that.  [i've been keeping the project under tight wraps until this box arrived.]

 

 

Since many good build projects around here seem to have a furry helper/assistant, I've recruited Gwen the Pembroke Welsh Corgi into service for the Empire.  She's agreed to be conscripted in exchange for lots of treats and belly rubs.

 

 

 

Step 1: Open box.   Poof.  Instant Christmas in July.

 

Everything arrived very well packaged and protected during shipping.  Excellent job MightyTank (and crew?).  As I carefully unwrapped everything, I kept thinking to myself: Holy cow, it's finally here.  And also: This stuff is so big!  But seeing as I've been staring at small pictures of white armor for 6 months, it's supposed to be bigger in real life and in my hands.    At 6'2", I'm definitely on the tall side for a Stormtrooper, but length-wise, everything I held up to one of my limbs seemed to be almost exactly the length I would need it to be.   While I'm tall, I'm also on the skinny side with very lean thin limbs, so while the length is perfect, most of the arm and leg pieces will likely need to be trimmed quite a bit for circumference, I think.   The ABS is a lot thicker than I was imagining too, I can't fathom the horror stories I've read about the armor being thin enough to see through.  Absolutely no way that'll happen.

 

 

Standard autopsy layout photos:  

 

 

 

 

 

The box contained so much good stuff, I couldn't fit it all in one photo when laid out flat on the guest bed.   Not surprisingly, I am slightly overwhelmed with the number of parts all assembled in one place.  But as they say:  How do you eat an elephant?  One bite at a time.

 

Non-armor pieces/accessories/assembly tools shot:

 

 

 

The fruits of my labor while waiting for the armor to ship/arrive.  Now hopefully, instead of having to make 65536 trips to stores (Joann's, Home Depot, Walmart) while building, I'll be able to cut that number down to probably more like 5.

 

Neck seal and holster (not pictured) were made by Darman/his wife.   I highly recommend his/her work, the quality is excellent and price is definitely reasonable.

 

I never received a reply to my inquiry to TKBoots so I finally settled on the Bass Amsterdams with Angelus Leather paint.   Hopefully I don't screw that up.

 

And yes, that is a sewing machine.  I plan to join the ranks of seamstress TK's, and rather than purchase a canvas belt, I'm opting to make my own using a tutorial found on this site.  

 

 

First question and then I'm done for the night:

 

Is there a way to reduce the display size of the photos in posts when coming over from PhotoBucket short of resizing the original images?  (apparently not without resizing the originals, thanks Rick)

 

Thanks for reading this far.  More to come soon.

 

- Mike out

Edited August 6, 2014 by Rystan

[Tolo[TK]]

Have fun trooper!

[PGHtoolman]

Funny the trip they take, mine went to New Stanton a llitle over an hour East of Pittsburgh.  Sit there a day then come back to the Burgh to get delivered.

 

I look forward to watching your build, you are way more ready than I am on getting all of the "other" things you need.

[Starfox2010]

First question and then I'm done for the night:

 

Is there a way to reduce the display size of the photos in posts when coming over from PhotoBucket short of resizing the original images?  

 

- Mike out

Yea select an image, and right on top of your pic there's an "Edit" button. click on that and select "Resize".  All you have to do is change the width size (I ended up with 400) and the height will change automatically.  Apply - replace original checkbox - save.

 

 

Welcome to the AM build takeover lol 

[Rystan]

Funny the trip they take, mine went to New Stanton a llitle over an hour East of Pittsburgh.  Sit there a day then come back to the Burgh to get delivered.

 

I look forward to watching your build, you are way more ready than I am on getting all of the "other" things you need.

 

Thanks Tim.  Glad to know my armor wasn't the only one that took a mini-detour.

 

Yea select an image, and right on top of your pic there's an "Edit" button. click on that and select "Resize".  All you have to do is change the width size (I ended up with 400) and the height will change automatically.  Apply - replace original checkbox - save.

 

 

Welcome to the AM build takeover lol 

 

Thanks Rick.  I'll give that a try in a couple minutes.

[Rystan]

Okay, I found what you were talking about Rick, and you're talking on the photobucket side.  I was hoping to avoid resizing the original images.  I was more curious if there was a way to adjust the display size on FISD without modifying the originals.   Still couldn't find that ability.  Oh well.

 

 

On the build front:

 

I'm working on making sure I have identified what all the parts are and where they go.   The first area where I'm running into trouble is with the shins.  (It's AM armor and that seems to be a common issue in previous build threads.) According to TG (Here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26954-fs-am-armor-master-kits-are-back/)  "Calves have been belled out / widened at the ankle to fix an issue with previous AM version".

 

I've found RogueTrooper's guide to AM shins (Here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16608-am-armor-shins-the-proper-way-to-assemble-and-wear/) and according to that, which might now be out of date due to the recent mold changes, there's supposed to be an A and a B shin part.   And from the below picture it's pretty easy to tell the two apart.

 

 

 

Now the problem I have though, is when I taped them together, my untrained eye can't tell the difference between the two in order to identify which is the left leg and which is the right leg.  

 

 

In fact, especially from the back view, they both look identical.

 

Now, it wouldn't be the first time I've been accused of having two left feet, but it almost looks to me like I got two copies of the same leg shin/calf armor?

 

What am I missing?

 

 

 

On the further saga of identifying pieces:   I know with the armor you receive many variants for different style armors (knee plates, hand guards, shoulder straps, etc), but I'm having trouble identifying these pieces:

 

Since I've really only been studying the pieces for the ANH Stunt armor, it might just be that it's for another variant.  Abdomen buttons?  Rivet covers for belts?  Anyone?

 

Thanks,

 

- Mike

[Rystan]

Up next, confirmation of the forearms:

 

 

Based on arm's tutorial found here: http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorial-arms

 

The curvy shaped side is the left and the straight shaped side is the right.   My assumption is that the curvy/shaped comments refer to the inner pieces upper "lip".

 

Which would make the left pieces above, the left side, and same on the right.

 

Using this logic to figure out the inner forearm pieces, and matched the outer pieces which seemed to match best to the inner parts, as seen below:

 

Left: 

 

 

Right:

 

 

The forearms, again according to TG, have been completely redesigned with the new 2.0, and definitely line up better than previous AM and NE molds, as seen here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25041-inquiry-on-forearm-bicep-matchup-ne-armor/

 

 

Have I correctly identified the left/right forearms? (Right has 12 dimples, left has 11, thanks Tim)

Edited August 6, 2014 by Rystan

[PGHtoolman]

In the reference photos the right arm had 12 dimples. Is that what you have?

[Rystan]

In my photo the one on the left is the one with twelve. So either my whole theory is wrong, or I've got the inner forearms identified and the outer pieces are reversed.

 

Thanks for the reminder that I need to constantly refer back to the screen reference photos.

[Rystan]

It doesn't help that if you look at the forearms in the FISD "arms tutorial" (http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorial-arms) both the left and the right forearms have have 11 dimples in every picture.   Now it says those are ROTJ/TE2 arms so maybe they cleared up the 11 vs. 12 issue in ROTJ instead of ANH?

 

 

Screen grabs from ANH references on FISD:

 

Left Arm = 11 dimples

 

 

Right arm = 12 dimples

 

Thanks again, Tim

[Rystan]

Now that the mystery of the outer forearms is solved.  On to the inner forearms.

 

Alignment instructions by gazmosis found here (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25041-inquiry-on-forearm-bicep-matchup-ne-armor/#entry315007) say to line up the forearm halves at the end closest to the elbow.

 

 

So basically it's either curvy inside on the left or curvy inside on the right.

 

Curvy inside on the right results in:

 

Right/12 dimple forearm with curvy inner:

 

Which pairs with straight inner on left/11 dimple forearm:

 

 

 

Everything lines up at the elbow end and is passably close (granted everything is pre-trimming for circumference) at the wrist end.

 

 

Curvy inside on the left results in:

 

Left/11 dimple outer:

 

Right/12 dimple outer with straight inner:

 

Neither the left or the right match up at the elbow or near the wrist.

 

 

Seems to me curvy on the right/12 dimple side is the "better" option.  Now the question that remains:  Is that a problem?

 

Based on this thread (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2902-forearms/) discussing pinching at the forearm/elbow and an inability to reach your own head when wearing the arms, troopermaster suggests deepening the curve on the inside halves to alleviate the problem.  So it sounds like curved on both sides is allowed/acceptable.

 

Based on these three screen grabs, it seems I'm correct:

 

Am I being too pedantic/perfectionist? (probably but that's ok, says me)

Edited August 6, 2014 by Rystan

[Rystan]

On the further saga of identifying pieces:   I know with the armor you receive many variants for different style armors (knee plates, hand guards, shoulder straps, etc), but I'm having trouble identifying these pieces:

 

Since I've really only been studying the pieces for the ANH Stunt armor, it might just be that it's for another variant.  Abdomen buttons?  Rivet covers for belts?  Anyone?

 

Thanks,

 

- Mike

 

Those look to be abdomen buttons for a TD/sandtrooper based on this bill-o-gram:

 

[maxsteele[TK]]

Those look to be abdomen buttons for a TD/sandtrooper based on this bill-o-gram:

 

 

 

Those are the rivet covers for the belt.  You cut them to fit.  Funny enough, you can see them in both of the pics you posted for the button plate examples.

[SCTrooper[TK]]

Ok, lets' see, you do have them paired correctly.  The inner parts have a swoop in near the bottom of the calf.

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

A ) The belt rivet cover thing... super funny.

 

B ) Maybe this link will help you with your shins. 

 

-Eric

[Shank_O_Potomus]

Ok, lets' see, you do have them paired correctly.  The inner parts have a swoop in near the bottom of the calf.

It looks like that would be correct but its because the one is angled. when they are laid out flat they don't match the original picture in the AM leg build guide.

But the A's both face the same direction and the B's both face the same direction. 

[SCTrooper[TK]]

These shins are not original AM. I have been there done that!

[Shank_O_Potomus]

When you assemble these one will be backward

[Rystan]

Nick and Eric, I have to agree with Ryan on this.  The mold was changed with the current run and I think it's made the pieces much more difficult to identify.  I'll post a pic tomorrow that shows the taped together shins side by side looking down at them.  According to the tutorial that Eric mentioned above, before you would assemble them AB BA.  But now, since both the A and B pieces curve in the same direction so they now fit together AB AB. so the deeper V slice top is on the left side for both legs, whereas you would expect them to be opposite between each leg.  

 

I suppose there's a chance that I got one of Ryan's shins and he got one of mine (??)  I think I might send an email to TG to see if he can clarify/help.

 

Edit:

Edited August 3, 2014 by Rystan

[Starfox2010]

I sent an email to TG earlier asking for help clarifying the pieces.  It looks like my brother and I both have 2 left leg pieces. These two are mine and it looks like the inner piece of the Left leg (I hope I'm wrong).

[Rystan]

Ok so rather than bombarding him on the shins I'll wait to see what he tells you about .

[Rystan]

Boots, part 1:

 

Yesterday was a nice day to sit outside and paint my fingers black, I mean deglaze the Bass Amsterdams.  [Note to others choosing to go the painting boots route, wearing rubber gloves when using the acetone probably would have been a good idea.]

 

Pre work:

 

Used some Frog Tape on the sole/heel to keep them safe:  (I found small strips helped to follow the curves of the boot as closely as possible as well as letting the tape stick to itself in addition to adhering to the sole.)

 

Products to be used during the boot whitening:

 

 

After about an hour of scrubbing and used up about 3/4 of the deglazer (spilled some at one point and tried to sop up what I could and put it to use):

 

Some of the shine is definitely gone, but it didn't drastically alter the black too much.  How far does this process need to go before starting to apply the coats of white paint? (need to take more shine off, thanks Ron!)

 

I'll likely retape too before starting the leather paint as some of the tape didn't care for the rough-housing from the deglazing scrubbing.

Edited August 6, 2014 by Rystan

[maxsteele[TK]]

Boots, part 1:

 

Yesterday was a nice day to sit outside and paint my fingers black, I mean deglaze the Bass Amsterdams.  [Note to others choosing to go the painting boots route, wearing rubber gloves when using the acetone probably would have been a good idea.]

 

Pre work:

 

Used some Frog Tape on the sole/heel to keep them safe:  (I found small strips helped to follow the curves of the boot as closely as possible as well as letting the tape stick to itself in addition to adhering to the sole.)

 

Products to be used during the boot whitening:

 

 

After about an hour of scrubbing and used up about 3/4 of the deglazer (spilled some at one point and tried to sop up what I could and put it to use):

 

Some of the shine is definitely gone, but it didn't drastically alter the black too much.  How far does this process need to go before starting to apply the coats of white paint?

 

I'll likely retape too before starting the leather paint as some of the tape didn't care for the rough-housing from the deglazing scrubbing.

 

When you're done, the shine will be completely gone.  I used a can of regular acetone to remove it.

 

Before:

 

 

 

After:

 

 

 

It took me about 45 minutes - hour of scrubbing to get all the polish off each boot.

[Rystan]

Ab plate buttons, part  1:

 

With all of the mounds of ABS waiting to be trimmed, I decided it was time to break the seal and get my feet wet with what I'm hoping are some easy win cuts.

 

Started out taking measurements of the pertinent button sections on the abdomen itself.

 

 

Then taking measurements on the button plates themselves:

 

The entire top surface of the button pyramid is larger than the corresponding mounting surfaces, so I need to transfer the measurements to the face of the button pyramids and figure out the appropriate amount to trim from the surface in order to keep the buttons centered when final mounting occurs.

 

 

N.B. These are the measurements from my AM kit, and I'm not sure if they're "original/official".  I know AM runs bigger in a lot of areas so the plan is to make the pieces fit together as formed/built so that the overall appearance matches when I'm wearing the final armor.   I erred on the side of leaving myself an extra mm in some cases figuring it was better to leave too much and pare it down later rather than cutting off too much to start.

 

 

Okay, enough stalling time to make the first cuts.

 

 

 

First round of cuts used a box cutter to score along the inside top and side edges of the pyramids.    

 

Then I cut the side edges with this.

 

 

(Still hunting for curved lexan scissors...the guys at Home Depot dragged me all over the store to various sections trying to find what looked like what I am expecting to find.  I found this and figured it might be a good start.)   I'm not sure how long it'll last cutting ABS this thick, but it's done okay so far.

 

Once the side edges were cut, it was able to bend and snap the remaining flaps so now the plate lay flush against the table surface.

 

 

My assistant #1 decided she needed to see what all the fuss was about.   (Assistant #2 is my 6 year old who has already asked 6,000 questions about every phase of the process so far, most often asked:  Are you done yet?  

 

At this point the centering measurements pencil marks were wiped away during the manhandling from the cutting.  So I need to reapply them.  And before I do, does my thinking/logic track with regards to centering the plates so that none of the abdomen surface shows?  Or do you trim further so that the button plate is smaller than the raised portion of the abdomen?

 

Screen caps:  (looks like the button plates are not smaller than the raised abdomen section here)

 

 

And again not wanting to overly rely on billhag's reference material but it looks like the bottom plates are smaller than the abdomen sections here:

 

Anyone care to chime in?

Edited August 6, 2014 by Rystan

[Rystan]

When you're done, the shine will be completely gone.  I used a can of regular acetone to remove it.

 

Before:

 

 

 

After:

 

 

 

It took me about 45 minutes - hour of scrubbing to get all the polish off each boot.

 

Thanks Ron!  I'm almost out of the Angelus deglazer so I'll likely have to make a trip out to pick up some acetone and go back to scrubbing some more.  This time with rubber gloves.