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Posted

Name: Marcus Dohring

TKID: 14057

Forum name: JODOKAST

 

Garrison: MidSouth

 

Armor: NE

Helmet: ATA

Blaster: Hyperfirm

 

Height: 6’ 2â€

Weight: 185 pounds

Boots: TK Boots

Canvas Belt: Trooperbay

Hand plates: Flexible rubber (Trooperbay)

Neck seal: Trooperbay

Holster: Trooperbay

 

FULL BODY

 

Front - Arms at side

 

FullBody-Front-Armsatside.jpg

 

 

Back - Arms at side

 

FullBody-Back-Armsatside.jpg

 

 

Left - Arm raised

 

FullBody-Left-Armraised.jpg

 

 

Right - Arm raised

 

FullBody-Right-Armraised.jpg

 

 

Right Side Detail - Arm raised

 

 

FullBody-RightSideDetail-Armraised.jpg

 

 

Left Side Detail - Arm Raised

 

FullBody-LeftSideDetail-Armraised.jpg

 

 

ARMOR DETAILS

 

Abdomen Details

 

 

ArmorDetails-AbdomenDetails.jpg

 

 

Action Shot

 

ArmorDetails-ActionShot.jpg

 

 

Cod and Butt Plate Attachment

 

ArmorDetails-CodandButtPlateAttachment.j

 

 

Interior Strapping

 

ArmorDetails-InteriorStrapping.jpg

 

 

HELMET DETAILS

 

Front

 

Helmet-Front.jpg

 

 

Side

 

Helmet-Side-Left.jpg

 

 

Helmet-Side-Right.jpg

 

 

Back

 

Helmet-Back.jpg

 

 

Hovi Tip Detail

 

Helmet-HoviTipDetail.jpg

 

 

Lens Color

 

Hemet-LensColor.jpg

 

 

BLASTER DETAILS

 

Blaster - Left

 

Blaster-Left.jpg

 

 

Blaster - Right

 

Blaster-Right.jpg

 

 

Blaster - D-Ring (additional)

 

Blaster-D-Ringadditionalpic.jpg

 

 

ACCESSORY DETAILS

 

Neck Seal

 

AccessoryDetails-NeckSeal.jpg

 

 

Thermal Detonator - Back

 

AccessoryDetails-ThermalDetonator-Back.j

 

 

Holster Attachment

 

AccessoryDetails-HolsterAttachment.jpg

 

 

SUPPORTING PICTURES

 

Full Body - Right Side Detail - Single Male Snap (the snap was not visible prior)

FullBody-RightSideDetail-SingleMaleSnaps

 

 

Full Body - Right Leg - Back Cover Strip (in the back shot, the cover strip seems to extend on the bottom)

 

FullBody-RightLeg-Back-CoverStripsupport

 

 

Full Body - Right Leg - Back Cover Strip

 

FullBody-RightLeg-Left-CoverStripsupport

 

 

Thank you for your consideration.

Posted

Looking good, one thing I noticed is the screws on your thermal detonator clips are Phillips. They should be slotted screw heads painted black. Otherwise nice build!

Posted

Looking good, one thing I noticed is the screws on your thermal detonator clips are Phillips. They should be slotted screw heads painted black. Otherwise nice build!

Thanks!  If that is the only thing that needs changing, I can live with that.  = )

Posted

OOOPS! You should probably re-take the full body shots with your forearms on the correct arms. The way the NE forearms are constructed, there is a molded, raised ridge on one side and no ridge on the other. The raised ridge should be on the top side of your forearm. You will also notice that what should be the left forearm is very  even across the elbow side opening on the half with the square indent ridge. The right one has one side higher than the other on the elbow side opening of the square indent ridge.

Posted (edited)

Great looking build Marcus! A few things I notice moving forward. Your tube stripes may be too high on the cheeks......WAY too much bronzing on your blaster scope (will not affect EIB or Centurion) but for accuracy sake. Also there may be too much gap on the split rivet side (left side) between the ab and kidney. And your forearms could come down just a scootch to be a bit closer to the wrists to cover the glove bunching. Belt corners may need to be trimmed just a bit more. And hard to tell from the photos if you have the elastic bands that attach the back plate to the shoulder bridges and also a photo showing the inner drop boxes. Overall, well done! Good luck! :jc_doublethumbup:

Edited by Zixx
Posted

OOOPS! You should probably re-take the full body shots with your forearms on the correct arms. The way the NE forearms are constructed, there is a molded, raised ridge on one side and no ridge on the other. The raised ridge should be on the top side of your forearm. You will also notice that what should be the left forearm is very  even across the elbow side opening on the half with the square indent ridge. The right one has one side higher than the other on the elbow side opening of the square indent ridge.

 

Thank you for catching this, Steve.

 

Please see the below updated pictures reflecting changes and two additional shots of the drop box and hand guards.

 

FULL BODY

 

Front - Arms at side

 

FullBody-Front-Armsatside-correctforearm

 

Back - Arms at side

 

FullBody-Back-Armsatside-correctforearms

 

Left - Arm raised

 

FullBody-Left-Armraised-correctforearms.

 

Right - Arm raised

 

FullBody-Right-Armraised-correctforearms

 

ARMOR DETAILS

 

Action Shot

 

ArmorDetails-ActionShot-correctforearms.

 

ACCESSORY DETAILS

 

Drop Box

 

DropBox.jpg

 

Hand Plate

 

HandPlate.jpg

 

Please let me know if you require additional details.

 

Thank you.

Posted

Great looking build Marcus! A few things I notice moving forward. Your tube stripes may be too high on the cheeks......WAY too much bronzing on your blaster scope (will not affect EIB or Centurion) but for accuracy sake. Also there may be too much gap on the split rivet side (left side) between the ab and kidney. And your forearms could come down just a scootch to be a bit closer to the wrists to cover the glove bunching. Belt corners may need to be trimmed just a bit more. And hard to tell from the photos if you have the elastic bands that attach the back plate to the shoulder bridges and also a photo showing the inner drop boxes. Overall, well done! Good luck! :jc_doublethumbup:

Thank you for your feedback, Jason.

 

I will see what Steve says about the tube stripes, gap, and belt corners.

 

Do you have a recommendation regarding how to paint over the bronze?

 

Forearms have been lowered and drop box pic taken...see above.

 

The elastic bands are there, but aren't those for Centurion only?

 

Thank you again.

Posted

 

 

The elastic bands are there, but aren't those for Centurion only?

 

 

You are correct, they are listed in the CRL for Centurion requirement, I was pointing out that if you choose to go for Centurion (which I'm sure you will be ;) ) that they need to be there. :jc_doublethumbup:

As far as the blaster scope, I recommend dry brushing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drybrush

Posted

You are correct, they are listed in the CRL for Centurion requirement, I was pointing out that if you choose to go for Centurion (which I'm sure you will be ;) ) that they need to be there. :jc_doublethumbup:

As far as the blaster scope, I recommend dry brushing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drybrush

Thanks, Jason! :-)

Posted

MARCUS!!!!   Thank you for your application for EIB. It is obvious that a lot of thought and planning went into your armor. Nice build. So let's look at your armor!!

 

CRL and EIB Application Requirements:

​All required photo submissions have been posted and your armor meets all standards set to achieve EIB status. With that, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB!!!!!

 

Other-Armor Fit/Assembly:

Here is where we get to pick you apart! MUHAHAHAHAHAH!! Ok.....not really. However, your fellow troopers and I chime in to help make everyone look better. There have been some good suggestions so far. I see nothing that will take any great deal of effort.

First off, thanks for reposting the pics with your forearms on correctly. NE has direct ties to the hyper accurate RS props armor in which there is a distinct difference between the left and right forearms.Nice job!

A couple things on your helmet, You eye openings seem like they can be opened up some. Helmet-Front1_zps45c4f2ff.jpgFrom the inside, ATA has really distinct mold lines surrounding the eye openings that serve as a great guide to making the them wide enough. They are ok and won;t affect you applications but they should be opened up further. I don't want to jump around too much on this post . I was going to put the next helmet suggestions under Centurion suggestions but since we are on the helmet subject here.....Jason brought up a good point about your tube stripes being too high. Since you used the Trooperbay decals, this is an easy fix. Lay a pencil on the cheek tube right up against the face. that is the proper spacing between the tube stripes and the faceplate. This is an adjustment you will need to make.

It was mentioned regarding the gap on your left side. I don;t see any issues here. The gap is neither overwhelming or distracting to me. You are so close that in your Centurion photos( if you apply) Just tighten up your belt and this will go away completely.

Your right bicep looks really big to me. In the pic with your arms raised, there seems to be an excessive amount of space, I then went back and looked at your full front shot and the right one looks a lot bigger. It would go along way to the overall look and comfort of your armor to adjust the fit on this.

The only other things I see is that your thighs seem to be sitting low. I like the way you built them nice and slender to fit your legs. This extra custom fit looks like it may prevent you from raising them up. Pictures can be deceiving, though. If they can be raised up GREAT, if not don't sweat it too much. Again, we are talking about the overall improved look here.

 

Centurion Suggestions: 

From the details you have already installed, it looks like you will be shooting for Centurion. I can't definitively see them so make sure we have a pic of the elastic on the rear of the shoulder bridges. 

I know and appreciate what you were trying to do by matching the corners of your waist belt with the canvas belt. However, more needs to be taken off the corners. Manny's belt is a great example.CF390A04-4A29-482F-9D9F-3A8DB7EB5AD4_zpsDon't worry about the plastic belt sides matching the width of the belt. It's the canvas belt that is affecting this. We need to get the belt makers of the FISD to take 1/4 in off their belts and make them no wider than 3 inches. Having them 3 1/4 to 3 3/8 is too wide. Anyway, lop a little off those corners and move along. 

Next is a detail on your blaster. Hyperfirm has a tendency to be a little enthusiastic with their weathering. The brass color on the scope needs to be knocked down significantly. It's just too distracting. I would use a matte black model paint bur acrylic paint would work as well. 

Lastly is Matt's suggestion to change out the phillips head screws to slotted screws to improve the accuracy of your thermal detonator. gallery_12157_51_16672.jpgThis is a small update that goes a long way toward the overall accuracy of your armor. Centurion is about the details after all!

 

Congratulations again!!!!

Posted

Thank you so much!!!

 

All of your suggestions are noted and will be implemented in due time.

 

Happy to serve the Empire!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Congratulations Marcus great job.

Thanks, brother.

 

When are you submitting?

Posted
Thanks, brother.

 

When are you submitting?

 

Soon my friend soon. I may just need your expert eye to double check me before be released to the wolves. Lol

Posted

Congrats and welcome to the ranks

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