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Posted (edited)

Steve, as requested. Better and close up blaster photos. New sight rail, sight rail into vent hole on top of barrel, front sight fixed and bayonet lug attached

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Edited by Zixx
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Posted

Sorry Steve, if you check his thread pretty sure he used aluminum.

you are correct, Ian. I didn't read far enough down.
Posted

Wow Jason! You have bee working tour patootie off!!! Well done on the those corrections!!! Now is the point you throw daggers at me. Before I get into that, keep in mind, Centurion is about the details. Each aspect of anyone's armor and its accessories are considered and looked at. The package must be complete. I couldn't see your blaster well enough on the original pictures you posted. I can see everything now and it revealed 2 things that will need repair. It is great that you upgraded from the hasbro to a doopys kit. However, having a Sterling based kit is awesome, but it needs to be built correctly. With the amount of incredible builds and reference photos available here, I just can't overlook these details:4DE39706-A8D1-4119-B9BE-3669AADCB218_zpsThe part on the underside of you blaster near the butt cap is a lock stop and sadly is mounted backwards. It is a "U" shaped channel with a lever inside that sits at an angle pushed up on one side with a spring. Although fake, the mold does show the pivot pin in the center that the lever pivots on. To remove the butt cap on the real gun, the lever needs to be pushed down allowing the butt cap to be pushed forward enough to rotate in the tracks under the cap. Without pushing that lever down, the butt cap hits the lever and cannot be pushed forward. That lever should be angled upward towards the butt cap not the grip like on yours. Secondly, is the rear sight. It, too, is mounted backwards. The serrated or scalloped portion should face the rear. Here is a shot showing a real Sterling back end.(welded to steel pipe. Thanks, usaeatt2)9CB1565E-A77C-4009-857A-DBCD615D8D3F_zpsPlease contact me if I have confused you in any way. After you make these corrections, PLEASE PLEASE post a pic suited up, standing tall in your  "NEW" Centurion armor. 

Posted (edited)

As requested, new photos with all improvements! (And Steve, I also adjusted the shoulder bells)  :jc_doublethumbup: Thanks to my love Desiree for the photos. :wub:

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Edited by Zixx
Posted

I am blown away by your dedication, your effort and your final look. I am sure that you will agree that the changes, though challenging, were for the better! Your Garrison should be honored to have you beside them!

 

Welcome to Centurion!!!!

Posted

Great work trooper, congrats, welcome to the ranks :D

Posted

Thank you everyone so much! Especially Steve for helping and guiding along the way. I am very proud to be among the 123 Centurions in the Legion. Very, very PROUD! :D March on Troopers!!!

Posted (edited)

Pic stolen from usaeatt2's build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/page-5?. The 1/16 will be a LOT easier to bend and probably more screen accurate too.

 

Nothing makes me smile more than when I'm minding my own business, reading Centurion applications and I come across something I did being used as a reference... :)

 

If you are going to go with the 1/16th rail like in the top pic, he used steel rather than aluminum. An aluminum one will most likely bow and look goofy.

I'd try to cut down your drop boxes before getting new ones. You might be able to make it work.

 

The top rail was "supposed" to be steel...but if you read my build thread a little further, you'll find the agony of defeat, where I realized I bought a 1/8" steel bar in error.  Bending 1/8" steel is tough without heat and that's when I noticed it...you'd think I would have noticed during cutting and filing, but I think I was preoccupied with making my 4th rail.  Sooo, the 1/16" rail you see in the top picture is actually made from 1/16" aluminum angle.  Turns out it's difficult to find 1/16" steel bar.  The 1/16" aluminum rail doesn't bow very much AND that's with a REAL scope and counter (heavy) attached.  Maybe having the counter bracket and rail cut from one piece provides a little "rigidity" in the middle.  Whatever the case, I think a 1/16" aluminum rail would work fine with a resin scope and counter attached.

 

NICE WORK on all your modifications, Jason!!!!  Congratulations!!! :duim:

Edited by usaeatt2

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