Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 19, 2014 Report Posted May 19, 2014 (edited) Hello all my fellow TK's! Without further delay here is my Centurion application. This was a labor of love and I thoroughly enjoyed turning my original build into a Centurion worthy armor. I hope you enjoy looking it over as much as I enjoyed building it. I look forward to joining the ranks of Centurion with my fellow brothers and sisters. EIB application:http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26741-tk-6276-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-ata-368/ Armor:ATA Helmet:ATA Blaster:Doopy Doos resin/polyurethane cast Sterling (assembled and painted by me) Height:5'7" Weight:180 Boots:TKboots Belt:Trooperbay Hand Plates:Rubber (Trooperbay) Electronics:Aker Neck Seal:Trooperbay Holster:Darman --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FRONT,ARMS AT SIDE BACK,ARMS AT SIDE RIGHT SIDE, ARM RAISED LEFT SIDE, ARM RAISED RIGHT SIDE DETAIL (ADDED "HAN SNAP") LEFT SIDE DETAIL (REPLACED ORIGINAL POP RIVETS WITH CORRECT SPLIT RIVETS) AB BUTTON ORIENTATION HAND PLATES AND GLOVES HAND PLATES SHOWING FLEXIBILITY (RUBBER) SHOULDER BRIDGE FRONT(FIXED) SHOULDER BRIDGE BACK(FREE FLOATING) WITH ELASTIC BANDS IN PLACE THIGH PACK ATTATCHMENT, RIGHT AND LEFT RESPECTIVELY(FIXED PER EIB APP) SNIPER KNEE PLATE, RIGHT AND LEFT RESPECTIVELY DROP BOX ORIENTATION (EVEN WITH BELT EDGE) LEFT AND RIGHT RESPECTIVELY(FIXED PER EIB APP.) DROP BOX BACK SIDE, SHOWING INNER BOX AND ATTATCHMENT WITH RIVET AND WHITE ELASTIC HELMET FRONT (FIXED TUBE STRIPES PER EIB APPLICATION) HELMET BACK HELMET RIGHT HELMET LEFT HOVI MIX TIPS DETAIL BACKLIT LENS COLOR HELMET S-TRIM BLASTER LEFT SIDE BLASTER RIGHT SIDE BLASTER D-RING NECK SEAL THERMAL DETONATOR FRONT ANOTHER ANGLE........(NEW BRACKETS AND SCREWS FIXED PER EIB APP) THERMAL DETONATOR BACK HOLSTER ATTATCHMENT HOLSTER STRAPS 16MM AB/KIDNEY SPLIT RIVETS 10 MM SHINS CLOSE OVER TO THE INSIDE, RIGHT AND LEFT RESPECTIVELY FOREARMS, NO RETURN EDGE, RIGHT AND LEFT RESPECTIVELY BOOTS, LIGHTLY SCUFFED ACTION SHOTS DETAILS................. 2 SNAPS ON BUTT PLATE SPLIT RIVET ON CROTCH TAB CROTCH/BUTT ATTATCHMENT WHITE SHOULDER STRAPS CLAMSHELL (5 PICS) FULL FRONT,BACK AND SIDES, BUCKET ON (4 PICS) AB/BELT DETAIL (MY BELT IS PART OF MY CLAMSHELL AND IS NOT REMOVABLE) MISCELLANEOUS BLASTER............. Edited May 19, 2014 by Zixx Quote
HawkFan24 Posted May 19, 2014 Report Posted May 19, 2014 Looks great so far but you are missing a bunch of required pictures Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 19, 2014 Author Report Posted May 19, 2014 (edited) I think maybe you viewed it while I was still working on it. I was having problems with my computer freezing so I did 5 pics, posted, did 5 more, posted etc, that way I didn't lose any work. Edited May 19, 2014 by Zixx Quote
HawkFan24 Posted May 19, 2014 Report Posted May 19, 2014 Yup you are right, and with that......awesome build! Very detailed application with lots of photos to look at. Also, good job on all the mods you made since your EIB application Quote
Holnave (evan_loh)[TK] Posted May 19, 2014 Report Posted May 19, 2014 (edited) Great improvements! And great build too Some ABS paste solves a lot of problems . I had to reposition my side rivets too and filled the holes with ABS paste. They might call you out on the cover strips on the back of your shins as the cover strips overlap the ridges: Hopefully it's not an issue but even if it is, it's a simple mod But these are just suggestions and the DL has the final say. So don't make any final changes until the DL says so! All the best with your application! Edited May 19, 2014 by evan_loh Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Posted May 20, 2014 Thanks for the positive comments so far guys! Looking forward to hear what Steve has to say. Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted May 20, 2014 Report Posted May 20, 2014 Wow, that blaster is... glossy! Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Posted May 20, 2014 Wow, that blaster is... glossy! Lol. Yes, I need to hit it with the steel wool a little bit, but I prefer everything super clean! Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Posted May 20, 2014 Looks great brother good luck!! Thanks Manny! Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Report Posted May 21, 2014 Hey Jason! Thank you for your application for Centurion. As previously stated, you gave us a lot to look at here. Sometimes in the quest to get you approved for EIB, things are missed to prepare you for Centurion. Regardless of when certain things were picked up, some changes will still need to be done. Remember, Centurion is about the details. Let's look at your armor! CRL Requirements: All submission pictures have been posted (and then some ) You have done well paying attention to the upgrades that you did. I like that you changed out your side pop rivets to the proper domed head rivets and spaced them out properly, you changed out the pop rivets on your thermal detonator to black screws, you shortened up the straps that the drop boxes hang from. Nice work! We do need to look at some further changes that will need to be done prior to receiving Centurion. These things may not appear in the CRL, but they are still necessary for Centurion level armor. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: This point is not as critical to affect your application as it is for an overall better look but however you have your bicep straps attached to your biceps, it is causing your shoulder bells to be pulled down excessively. The top of your shoulders should be close to touching the ribbed shoulder bridges. Remember, as long as you have the bicep straps, it really is not critical that they are around the biceps. Now to the more important points: First off are your drop boxes. They are really thick. Drop boxes should be around the 1/2 inch thick. Many are even thinner as in this pic: Next are the button plates on your ab. The button plates should be trimmed to be slightly smaller than the stage they are attached to as in this pic:Your center button plate extends over the edges and your 4 button plate covers the stage completely. I didn't think ATA's button plates came like that. Both will need to be trimmed down. Next are the cover strips on the back of your calves. These should not extend past the ridge at the top. They should stop before the ridge. I wanted to discuss your chest plate a bit. You have a MAD amount of return edge on the sides and the bottom that should be trimmed off to get the proper look of your chest. Most return edges hover around 3/8 of an inch (10MM) for the larger parts. I have marked in red what can come off but I hope you do a little measuring as I used "paint" to draw the lines. Next is the power pack or thigh pack on your lower, right thigh. You did move the rivet location to the upper corner but I noticed that the length of the pack itself is too long. Everyone's thighs are different in diameter. Though however the thigh is constructed, the thigh pack should end at the rear most corner of the lower ridge and not extend beyond it. Next is your blaster. It's great to see that you upgraded from your Hasbro to a Doopy kit. However, it is required that your blaster be assembled correctly and with all parts present. Your photos of your blaster are very hard to see. They should be shot in good, direct light from the sides except for the "D" ring shot. This makes all details clear. Because of the sunlight from the side, the gloss of your paint and the angle you held the blaster at, the details are very difficult to see. however a couple things stand out to me that need correction. First is your scope rail. On a doopy or pipe build kit, the front bend of your scope rail should be inserted into the top vent hole that is behind the top t-track. Here is an example:The rear is either attached between the uprights of the rear sightOr bent to mount directly to the receiver body like on this screen used, non-firing blaster prop: A part that I did notice was missing is the bayonet lug that should be located in the spot between vent holes on the lower magazine housing side of the blaster marked here with a red arrow:I have a question regarding your front sight. I have yet to see a Doopy kit where the front sight didn't fit close to exact to the receiver front like thisYours seems to be trimmed a little off sorry to say. I would like to see some clearer pics of your blaster, though. I know this seems a little overwhelming. Please do not hesitate to contact me if you need to go over some things in more detail or I did not explain them well enough. We are here to help you That is what we are all about. Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Posted May 21, 2014 Thanks for the input Steve. All the trim work on the chest, thigh pack, ab plates and shin strips will be easy enough. The drop boxes I just made the other day and are pretty well zapped together so I will have to make another set to proper thickness. Everything with the blaster came trimmed and I just assembled. That's how the front sight fit out of the box.I will have to try and fill the gaps with bondo. The sight rail I had to make and did the best I could with 1/8 thick aluminum. I'll have to try and find something thinner to get the bends properly. The bayonet lug..........I don't know what happened to it. It was there..... I'll get to work on everything right away! Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Report Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) Pic stolen from usaeatt2's build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/page-5?. The 1/16 will be a LOT easier to bend and probably more screen accurate too. Good luck Jason. Most of that shouldn't be too troublsome for you. Edited May 21, 2014 by Sith Lord Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Posted May 21, 2014 Update. 4 more days left of vacation so I plan on working to get this done before I go back to work. I miraculously found the missing bayonet lug under my couch. I'm heading to the Depot now to try and find some 1/16th aluminum.......stay tuned. Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Report Posted May 21, 2014 If you are going to go with the 1/16th rail like in the top pic, he used steel rather than aluminum. An aluminum one will most likely bow and look goofy. I'd try to cut down your drop boxes before getting new ones. You might be able to make it work. Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) Drop boxes completed. Meeting my mom for lunch then I'll be back to finish the rest! Edited May 21, 2014 by Zixx Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Posted May 21, 2014 WELL DONE!!! Thanks Steve! I'm working on the blaster now. I WILL have everything done tonight. Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Report Posted May 21, 2014 If you are going to go with the 1/16th rail like in the top pic, he used steel rather than aluminum. An aluminum one will most likely bow and look goofy. Sorry Steve, if you check his thread pretty sure he used aluminum. Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Posted May 21, 2014 New sight rail DONE. Already placed into position. Fresh coat of paint coming up next! Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Posted May 21, 2014 Thigh pack trimmed . Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) Shin strips trimmed to not cover ridge Edited May 21, 2014 by Zixx Quote
Vader’s Wingman[501st] Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Posted May 21, 2014 Ab button plates trimmed and restaged Quote
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