usaeatt2 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Posted May 6, 2014 Marvs are accurate. We prettying found the stuff at the same time. It's the only off the shelf stuff that's accurate today. Gino will tell you his are more accurate but his were made using photos as reference. It came from the UK to start with and ours is from the UK. Right! Thanks for the update. LOL, maybe yours and Marv's were specified in millimeters and Gino's were were specified in inches...thus the slight difference. Marv's tracks (and yours, I assume) cover the holes on my Sterling replica if they are positioned PRECISELY. Quote
Plasticarmyman88 Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Posted June 4, 2014 Update 6/4 Scored an authentic M77c off ebay for $50/shipped, stripped it down and cleaned it up. I have some quick steel curing as we speak while I run errands to fill in the ring gap. Still waiting on Aaron's rail to arrive hopefully today when I get home so check back soon! Quote
GINO Posted June 10, 2014 Report Posted June 10, 2014 (edited) Marvs are accurate. We prettying found the stuff at the same time. It's the only off the shelf stuff that's accurate today. Gino will tell you his are more accurate but his were made using photos as reference. It came from the UK to start with and ours is from the UK. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Marv's and your track is not accurate to what was used on the original props. Fact. This is not a matter of opinion. Mine is perfectly accurate as I've personally compared it side by side to actual screen used track. And no I didn't make mine using photos as reference, I had access to actual track. Nothing personal, but no one besides me offers perfectly accurate t-track. What good is a found item t-track if it does not have the proper color or proper proportions? Marv's is good if you are not really concerned with accuracy and want something that is more economical. Mine is like having the real deal. . Edited June 10, 2014 by GINO Quote
sskunky Posted June 11, 2014 Report Posted June 11, 2014 No offence taken Gino. Although I can find no evidence that you had access to actual T-Track other than your say so and that is not rock solid evidence in my book....... You showed plenty of photos of real T-Track on exhibition sabers and blasters but you never showed the real thing in hand as evidence to your research. I have never disputed that your T-Track is nice, it is but it's not a found item..... Are you saying the real deal is not black or made of ABS? Anyway, this is not a thread on our opinions of T-track. I am happy to discuss this via PM as I am genuinely interested that you had access to the real deal and if it's something you cannot discuss in public PM is the way to go.... As you say mine and Marvs is good value and it's a found item that is as close as I believe we will find today...... Do you have a comparison pic of yours next to ours? I would be happy to send you some for research purposes or you could send me a small length of yours? It's all good fun. I did not mean to offend you either...... Mark. Quote
GINO Posted June 11, 2014 Report Posted June 11, 2014 No offence taken Gino. Although I can find no evidence that you had access to actual T-Track other than your say so and that is not rock solid evidence in my book....... You showed plenty of photos of real T-Track on exhibition sabers and blasters but you never showed the real thing in hand as evidence to your research. I have never disputed that your T-Track is nice, it is but it's not a found item..... Well you or anyone else does not have to take my word for it. For those in the know it is no question. And honestly I don't care if people buy yours, marv's or mine. There are multiple sources that serve different needs and budgets. But what I do care about is that the facts are not skewed or blurry here. And the fact is that the track that I have is the ONLY track with the accurate proportions and made in the correct material and color. Mine is not a found item, but it is indistinguishable from the real deal even when side by side. And for me and most other people I know who truly care about having really accurate props, having a found item is worthless if the proportions and color are incorrect. . Quote
Plasticarmyman88 Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Posted June 12, 2014 Finished..........for now. E-11 next to my finished NE ANH Stunt bucket: Various angles: Quote
Plasticarmyman88 Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Posted June 12, 2014 Ps Scope Rail by Aaron! It's the puuuurrrrrrrttttiiiieeeesssttttt!!!!!! Quote
usaeatt2 Posted June 12, 2014 Report Posted June 12, 2014 WOW! That came out REALLY NICE! Great work, Zach!!! I'm gonna have to go back through your thread - I'm lovin' the texture. Thanks for the shameless plug too! Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Posted June 13, 2014 Looks good Zach. Did you know your Hengstler fell off? Got any close up of how you did the scope conversion. Looks good from a distance! Quote
Marv Posted June 13, 2014 Report Posted June 13, 2014 Totally love what you've done there, like someone said earlier totally wicked what some of you guys do when you put these back together, were a tad fortunate here in the UK we can get these in a deactivated state relatively easy. Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 14, 2014 Report Posted June 14, 2014 That could be debatable Vern. My whole L2A3 is smooth with no texture whereas my last one was textured. Depends where and who made it. exactly. the british sterlings used in star wars were bumpy. and other versions of sterlings made in other nations were not made according to the ministry of defense specs. police carbines, and indian versions for example did not have a bumpy finish and the versions made after the 60's outside of britian were made smooth. if you see the serial numbers as an indication my point is that the sterling in a non british MOD version will have a different finish than the ones used by bapty on screen in the film. after the MOD stopped using surcote/suncorite paints purchased in russia people have had to use "crinkle" style paints instead. the original british paint did primer, parkerization and anti-shine in one pass. there are many makers of sterlings, and it's my opinion that there were bumpy versions used in the film and crinkle modern painted versions used as well... so any smooth versions would not in my opinion be 'replica' capable for a prop in the film. it's like having shaver wires with 10 loops on them... we do it... but it's not the way it was done. it's part of the fun of being as accurate as we can and letting people decide for themselves. Quote
Cantina Security[501st] Posted June 14, 2014 Report Posted June 14, 2014 Killer work man, I gotta get moving on my sterling build. Quote
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