DD's ANH E-11 Build Thread (First Timer)

[thederek]

Greetings everyone. I've decided to start a build thread. I'd like to preface by saying I'm totally new to this, and read other builds for quite some time before deciding to do a pipe build. I will include some pics here and there. This will be a work in progress. I appreciate all constructive feedback, and while I'm striving for a good blaster to eventually have when my armor gets here, mine will in no no way be 100% accurate to what I see some discussions devolving into mm's and correct 1970's imported paint with pixie dust and unicorn tears.

 

I decided to use plans provided by Aaron (usaeatt2), which he tweaked from a bunch of other people who've worked on them in the past, so kudos to all those guys. I bougth a scope from Striker which has yet to arrive (I really took the lazy route here and didn't want to attack building one from scratch), and ordered some T tracks from Marv. I will keep posting pics as time and life allows (I'm working two jobs), and any input is helpful.

 

One of the things I got hung up on for a while was 1.25" electrical conduit PVC vs. 1.5". The paper plans I printed simply would not fold/wrap around the 1.5" tube completely as they did when I compared it to a 1.25" electrical conduit pipe. That told me the 1.5" was too large. However, now that I got my DD's resin pieces, the bolt, barrel plug, and end cap are a bit too snug to fit into the PVC pipe. We're talking just a BIT off, not a huge amount or anything. Is it normal to have to sand these components down a bit?

 

It took me a while to get access to a drill press, and finally got a dremel, so I've finished the pipe which was a real pain in the butt, but think it came out great after some puddy repairs and a lot of sanding. I had a piece of old 1.5" electrical conduit laying around, athe pieces are actually a bit too small for a snug fit, which tells me sanding is in order. Starting a pic with comments on next post.

 

The 1.5" diameter:

 

 

The 1.25"

 

So, I went with the 1.25".

Edited April 21, 2014 by thederek

[thederek]

Some of these pics show intermediary steps to even get to the "first phase" which I seemed to see a lack of in other builds (you pros jump right into the nitty gritty   ). Hopefully someone can make use of them if they're browsing the web or trying their own builds.

 

I glued the template on the pipe with a glue stick, and was liberal with it as I knew I could wash it off after I was done doing what I needed to do. I used a drill press not a hand drill as I didn't trust my skill with that. I think the drill press was easy and made short work of it when I knew what I was doing. I left the template on, drilled right through it after I made pilot holes. This is important, as if you go straight to the "correct size" 7/16" holes, you'll mangle the thing to heck and back and cause the bit to jam. For drilling the pilot holes I used a drill bit size that almost exactly matched the smaller inner circles of the template for all the muzzle holes (I just visually eyed it up, I forget the bit size, 5/32" or something?).

 

After drilling:

 

When it looked like this, I was horrified. I knew I could make it look a lot nicer though. Before I did that, I cut out bits of the template and used a permanent marker of where important parts should go, so that way I didn't have to work around the paper anymore. Once the pieces were marked, I removed the upper-half of the template from the barrel. Here's how I marked areas:

 

 

 

Once the template was removed, I exacto'd out the extra flashing/scraps, and sanded until I was satisfied. I spent a lot of time on this when I then realized that the T Tracks will cover most of this. (I blame this on my history of building model tanks). Anyways, I puddied I think 3 of the holes when they came out a bit wonky.

 

Puddy to fix some holes:

 

The next day:

 

Edited April 22, 2014 by thederek

[thederek]

This was "Dremel day" and to be honest, I am not Mr. Handy Man, nor have used a dremel before, but I figured I could learn it. I marked the lever slot on the template, so I could remove the paper a bit on the bottom half of the template to see what I was doing with the dremel.

 

 

No point in showing dremeling pics. Everyone has their own method, and I took my sweet time since it was Easter Sunday, and was socializing with family. Here are the results. I highlighted some areas I am going to puddy to fix up a bit. All in all, I was really happy for a first time drilling/cutting with a dremel.

 

I know, I know, I don't know what I was thinking with the 2nd hold close to the ejector port. I was thinking it needed to be a bigger hole than the level track, and quickly realized my error. I am not discouraged though, I have put some puddy on and will sand it until it looks like a uniform "U" ending track, like in the template above.

 

 

Everything sanded, looking nice. Now just to fix those red circled areas.

 

Edited April 22, 2014 by thederek

[thederek]

So there's my stopping point for now. I have a few questions:

 

1.) Do you put the bolt in, then the spring, then the end cap? I haven't seen a detailed tutorial on this process, only making the spring. How do you all do it? That's the part that has me scratching my head.

 

2.) The barrel plug and bolt are too big for the internal diameter of the pipe, but only by a bit. Is it normal to sand it to fit?

 

Edited April 22, 2014 by thederek

[TrainWreck[501st]]

LOL. My M38 into an M19 wasn't so much the me being industrious route as it was the "my wife will kill me if I spend that much and a resin cast of a scope" route. You should have seen the look on her face when I told her how much the full doopy kit cost.

 

Are you sure you are printing the template out in the correct size? You need to click the print at 100% not fit to page. I have used the same templates and have had no problem fitting them to 1.5" pipe.

 

Even the pieces that come with the full doopy kit need to be sanded to fit the cast of the barrel. Sand paper is your friend.

 

Great job on the pipe. I can't wait to see your build.

[TrainWreck[501st]]

PS Sorry but I have no info on the bolt setup since I'm making my first build look like a cast. I'm sure someone here will chime in.

[TrainWreck[501st]]

Are you planning a canon or a promo build?

[usaeatt2]

Great start Derek!  If you hadn't said it, I would have never known this was your first time using a Dremel - you did a good job!!!

[thederek]

LOL. My M38 into an M19 wasn't so much the me being industrious route as it was the "my wife will kill me if I spend that much and a resin cast of a scope" route. You should have seen the look on her face when I told her how much the full doopy kit cost.

 

Are you sure you are printing the template out in the correct size? You need to click the print at 100% not fit to page. I have used the same templates and have had no problem fitting them to 1.5" pipe.

 

Even the pieces that come with the full doopy kit need to be sanded to fit the cast of the barrel. Sand paper is your friend.

 

Great job on the pipe. I can't wait to see your build.

 

Haha, see the one of the benefits of me being a bachelor, I suffer my own brokeness as much as I spend, no one else to give me grief, but I get it. The scope wasn't that much, still under a full resin kit really. I thought that too, but if you forget there's even a template, say the paper is BLANK, it doesn't fit around the pipe at all. I'm honestly baffled. I can't turn the paper landscape and do it heh, it's not so much about proportion as it feels about the outside diameter. Look at how snug it fits on the 1.25", printed the same exact way.

 

Thanks for the info on even sanding the FULL resin kit. That means I'll just sand this until it fits. I will post more and keep you all updated. I'll also show the level trac/slot once that's fixed too.

Edited April 22, 2014 by thederek

[thederek]

Are you planning a canon or a promo build?

Canon.

[thederek]

Great start Derek!  If you hadn't said it, I would have never known this was your first time using a Dremel - you did a good job!!!

 

Thanks Aaron! I've seen a bunch of your input around, along with about 5-7 other folks. I sanded the slot down a bit so the "grain" on top and bottom edge of the lever slot looks more smooth. I would much rather gouge out round holes with a dremel than cutting straight lines, that's for sure!

Edited April 22, 2014 by thederek

[usaeatt2]

Are you sure you are printing the template out in the correct size? You need to click the print at 100% not fit to page. I have used the same templates and have had no problem fitting them to 1.5" pipe.

 

The template has been redesigned for a 1.25" PVC pipe.

 

PVC pipe sizes can be misleading - for example, a 1.25" schedule 40 PVC pipe measures:

1.66" O.D.

1.38" I.D.

0.140 wall thickness

Nothing actually measures 1.25"!!!

 

With PVC pipe, only the O.D. is held to tolerance - the I.D. and wall thickness can vary from 2% to 10%.

That actually works for us, because we need the O.D. to be as close as possible to 1.66" so the template meets perfectly flush.

 

My suggestion is to cut out the template and take it with you when you go to buy the pipe.

You can easily wrap it around the pipe to make sure you're getting the right size.

 

I also made the template in PDF format so you can't print the wrong size.

It may look the same as the older templates, but it's not.

Everything has been tweaked and manipulated to maintain proportion on a PVC pipe which is 10% larger than a real Sterling receiver.

Edited April 22, 2014 by usaeatt2

[TrainWreck[501st]]

The pipe is right behind me and as soon as I read that Aaron I turned, looked, and saw a big 1 1/4" right at eye level. Yuerp. This is why I shouldn't post things on Monday nights.

[thederek]

If anyone can chime in on spring/bolt that'd be great, if not, what I"m thinking is the end cap goes on last; bolt goes in first and gets secured in place (since mine will be non-functional); spring goes in behind that; seal end cap.

[thederek]

The template has been redesigned for a 1.25" PVC pipe.

 

PVC pipe sizes can be misleading - for example, a 1.25" schedule 40 PVC pipe measures:

1.66" O.D.

1.38" I.D.

0.140 wall thickness

Nothing actually measures 1.25"!!!

 

With PVC pipe, only the O.D. is held to tolerance - the I.D. and wall thickness can vary from 2% to 10%.

That actually works for us, because we need the O.D. to be as close as possible to 1.66" so the template meets perfectly flush.

 

My suggestion is to cut out the template and take it with you when you go to buy the pipe.

You can easily wrap it around the pipe to make sure you're getting the right size.

 

I also made the template in PDF format so you can't print the wrong size.

It may look the same as the older templates, but it's not.

Everything has been tweaked and manipulated to maintain proportion on a PVC pipe which is 10% larger than a real Sterling receiver.

 

Aaron, your templates were perfect and more visually appealing/easy to use than a few others I saw (I suppose it's all preference). Thanks again so much for your help, and I encourage anyone to contact you for the PDF (credit to all past and prior I am forgetting who also reviewed/tweaked the plans). More pictures of my build when parts are glued using 2 part epoxy, and then I'd like to share some paint ideas.

[usaeatt2]

You've got it right Derek.  Bolt first, recoil spring behind the bolt and the cap last to hold it all together.

 

And thanks for your compliments on the template!

Edited April 22, 2014 by usaeatt2

[thederek]

Holy cow, is there a way to update the title from "threat" to "thread"? I'm such an idiot!

[thederek]

Grumpy today. Can't delete this thread or change the name to show correctly days later. Still trying to figure out the bolt and spring assembly. I've got so many threads open on it that I'm lost.

 

I dremeled out too much of the folding stock hole everyone does so I'll have to puddy that. Trigger is spring loaded finally but only fix to make it legit was to extend the trigger guard out a few mm's with some puddy so the trigger wouldn't touch.

 

I may post pics later, today is research day and trying to calm myself down. There are some really good builds out there so I dont want to throw up my boo boo pics. Not to mention i have nothing new to add that other people haven't done.

[usaeatt2]

Hang in there Derek.  Personally, I like the name of your threat - it's unique!

 

I like the "boo boo" pictures - accidents happen to the best of us and I enjoy seeing how different people resolve their issues.  Lots of times, I'm surprised and even learn things to make me a better builder - for instance, Dark CMF once posted about always storing epoxy syringes with the tips UP so air bubbles float to the top - Who knew?  So, I added something new to my "toolbox".  Also, it might help someone realize it's not as bad as they think when they see someone correct a problem and you can't even see it in the finished product.

 

Do you know the difference between master and apprentice carpenters?  They both make mistakes - the master just knows how to hide them.

 

Sure, there's a million other E-11 build threads, but I always read the new ones, even if they're the same pictures and assembly because each person has a different personality and/or way of presenting their material.  Your thread may click with someone and inspire them!

Edited April 25, 2014 by usaeatt2

[thederek]

Very true, you and Tim have inspired me and kept my spirits up for us less skilled. I'll post pics tomorrow when I get home of the repairs. I think it will be fine, and I've learned this is about fixing stuff as I go along. If anything, maybe my thread will be things not to do, to help someone else who may be starting. I've also realized I can't rush this stuff and that's half the battle for me. Thanks for stopping by.

[thederek]

Ok, so I made some more "progress" if you want to call it that I call it more repair work. Keep in mind, I've never done a build like this before, and I'm putting it all out there for you all: ugly/mess ups/not-as-accurate-as-I-intended it to. I hope this helps other people to perhaps realize to take the time and be ok to mess ups as most things can be fixed if willing.

 

So here are some basic parts you've seen in 50 builds. The butt screw, the flat grip screw, the selector switch sanded, the latching pin (?) sanded.

 

Here's my sight. I later added the "grooves" on the side and they came out, eh, less than stellar, so I most likely leave them a little wider than I've seen (Tim did a good job on his). Instead of using a nail like most other people, I used a small jewler's flat-head screw driver and cut it to the angle with my dremel. I chose what I thought looked proportionate, not sure on the exact size it should be, etc.

 

 

Butt hex:I widened this a tinnnny bit more than I wanted to but most people (other than blaster builders) would ever know to look that close.

 

 

My selector switch sanded, I have yet to attach this to the trigger group yet. Not sure how I want to screw/attach it to make it work. Haven't seen too many detailed builds of that yet, just people putting them on after assembly:

 

 

This is hollowed out now (didn't want to go too much deeper...?). Would like some details on the side, so I'll have to think of a way to engrave/make it "pop":

 

[thederek]

This is the barrel assembly. My screws finally came in from Apex, Inc. At two dollars a screw I can't really complain, however they didn't look much different from what I had except I suppose they are accurate as they are hexed in the middle and not the rounded at the hardware store.

 

A clean cut. I was pretty dumbfoudned considering how I mangled the side-grip flat head nail the other day.

 

Get...yourself....a...diamond...tipped cutter blade. Worth the extra few bucks, I believe around $15.

 

 

Sorry for the bad lighting, but here they are very smooth (although they didn't quite photograph like that) after using a metal file like you see in the old prison movies.

 

 

When I looked at the mold, I realized the screws were really longer and solid if it was a "true" Sterling it was molded after. I have no idea if this next part is correct, but I used some artistic license. I decided instead of drilling it all out, I would drill out just the size of the hex head and leave the texture all the way down. If it doesn't look that great, no one will know and we're talking mm's here. I won't be entering any blaster competitions anytime soon.............at least in the Milky Way galaxy.

 

Blue I left, red I drilled out, based on the actual size of the hex head. It looks as if most people just drill all of this out. I haven't glued them yet, so it's still fixable.

 

Here is the end result:

 

 

Here the hex bolts are laid where they will sit, but not yet secured/perfectly straightened.

Edited April 26, 2014 by thederek

[thederek]

A common error I've seen some do. I read about this too late. I drilled out more than I needed to of the folding stock "gap". I drilled into where some of the body would be. Again, kids and the public would never know, only my fellow builder nerds. So I haven't decided to just sand it down and make it look nice and leave it or mess with puddying it up.

 

[thederek]

Last post for a while. This is the great "Trigger Fiasco of 2014" . Everything was going good building the spring trigger, as I did read up on a few builds. However, I failed at considering how deep to hollow out the trigger well. I had no idea what was too much or not enough, so I did only a bit to where it moved in and out of the well smoothly, so it didn't catch on the sides. I never thought about the depth too much. I did hollow it out a bit at the top of the well, so the top of the trigger had room to be drilled when I would put in a pin. I should have thought more about hitting the trigger guard.

 

So what I did was before I pinned it, I cut the spring in half hoping that it wouldn't stick out so far. That didn't work well, and at this point, the only thing I could think of (didn't think about hollowing out deeper) was to extend the trigger guard out about 1/8" of an inch or so in order to prevent it from rubbing. The close ups are ugly, from farther away not so bad. I keep thinking: "it won't look so bad with paint". Ugh. Anyways, any suggestions? Be gentle some of you Master builders, hah, I'm not proud to post this yet but I've often been an awesome "finisher". With enough sanding, paint, and weathering most people won't notice (I hope). Let this be a lesson to all future amateurs doing this.

 

Keep in mind, I've never made a spring mechanism before, so I had to think about my current guns and even how toys were built. I used a pen spring like others, and made sure it didn't rub, catch, etc; that it was a smooth motion. I can't tell you how long I tinkered with this until I felt really confident. I marked up the trigger on all the borders, etc involved in the dimensions (sans trigger guard apparently).

 

 

I drilled a hole in the direct center in the back of the trigger for the spring that will connect into the trigger well hole. I used a drill bit that was as close as possible to the spring's diameter, widened with an engraver dremel tip, and then kept test-fitting until the spring was snug in the hole on the trigger. I also fitted the trigger into the well where I wanted it, and marked the trigger and trigger well with marks of where to drill. I then brought it outside to drill a hole through the whole assembly where the fulcrum pin will go.

 

 

I later cut this spring size in half, THEN glued it in with 2 part expoxy and let it sit overnight.

 

After it dried, I drilled the same size hole in the trigger well and engraved a bit out for a snug fit for the spring. I did not glue this part as I figured the pin would hold it in place fairly well. If the trigger later shoots out, I might consider gluing the other half of the spring into the trigger well. Tim (DarkCM) used a coat hanger pin I think which is smart and more durable, but I ended up finding a smaller hitch pin at the hardware store that I had and decided that would work well also (in theory). I later cut/dremeled it to the size I needed.

 

 

 

Fully pinned and working:

 

 

Another angle:

 

 

I was so happy so far, as it was the first mechanism I made and then I had to resort to this as a fix. I tried to mold it with artistic license along the trigger group "lines":

 

 

Looks fugly up close (puddy epoxy and 2 part epoxy...why the heck did I go ahead and glue this?!)

 

 

However, on profile from a little bit away, doesn't look TOO horrible I guess. I have to sand, find a way to do soemthing with the lower side. Doesnt feel like the puddy really dried well. Maybe more glue? Heck, I dunno, maybe more sanding? This will require a weekend of brainpower when I can sit and think. Busy between two jobs.

 

Edited April 26, 2014 by thederek

[TrainWreck[501st]]

Looking good brother!  Keep it up.