SeanTX Posted March 13, 2015 Report Posted March 13, 2015 Thanks. Yes I have the DVH 2.0 kit and the receiver is legit. But I wanted a steel one so I could solder my sterling pieces to it if I get that far. I look forward to the Phoenix Props kit replacing more of the DVH molds. 1 Quote
usaeatt2 Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Posted March 13, 2015 Thanks. Yes I have the DVH 2.0 kit and the receiver is legit. But I wanted a steel one so I could solder my sterling pieces to it if I get that far. I look forward to the Phoenix Props kit replacing more of the DVH molds. Sorry, I should have mentioned Derrek can do STEEL receiver tubes on the CNC - it's just an additional expense due to the longer machine time needed to cut the steel. For the rest, you'll have to talk to Derrek, but the new Phoenix Props version should turn out ULTRA cool. 1 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted March 13, 2015 Report Posted March 13, 2015 I cut nearly all the odd shaped holes with a Dremel and reinforced cutoff wheels. For the charging handle slot, I cut close to the line, then fine tuned the slot with files to ensure it was perfectly straight. My replica is as accurate as possible using hand tools, but it's really just a prototype for something better... If you're interested in saving yourself an enormous amount of time, contact Dday about an aluminum or steel receiver cut on a CNC mill. I helped Derrek with the research and dimensions used in his CNC program. I'm fairly certain Derrek will be doing another run of receivers soon - and when it happens, I'll be on the list. Pardon the dramatic advertisement, but the Phoenix Props blaster will rise triumphantly from the ashes of the DVH blaster and I fully expect it to be the ULTIMATE blaster kit. Very dramatic, and very close to the truth great comparison! Thanks. Yes I have the DVH 2.0 kit and the receiver is legit. But I wanted a steel one so I could solder my sterling pieces to it if I get that far. I look forward to the Phoenix Props kit replacing more of the DVH molds. As Aaron said, I can make these out of steel upon request when I do a full run. I will be doing a run of new tubes at the start of April since my original 50 are almost gone. I will be doing another pre-order for the tubes at cost to help fund the $2500+ I need to pay to get 50 tubes made. Sorry, I should have mentioned Derrek can do STEEL receiver tubes on the CNC - it's just an additional expense due to the longer machine time needed to cut the steel. For the rest, you'll have to talk to Derrek, but the new Phoenix Props version should turn out ULTRA cool. Thank you again for the great words Aaron. Quote
SeanTX Posted March 20, 2015 Report Posted March 20, 2015 Do you remember what brand of stepped bit you used? I've been burning up cheapo harbor frieght bits. Quote
usaeatt2 Posted March 20, 2015 Author Report Posted March 20, 2015 Hi Sean, Irwin Industrial #15101 Titanium Unibit - 1/8" to 1/2". 1/32" per step, for 13 steps. There's a reason Harbor Freight drill bits are cheap... Don't get me wrong - I own a whole set of them, but those get used for things like remodeling jobs. The expensive bits are kept separate...for work on props. If you read my carbon fiber build, you'll see a picture of that Irwin Unibit after it got destroyed drilling 75+ holes in the carbon fiber receiver tube. The bit was still extremely sharp after the steel receiver. Totally dull after the carbon fiber. Aaron Quote
Onlyalad19 Posted April 26, 2015 Report Posted April 26, 2015 Truly amazing build Aaron. This is such an inspiring thread. Now if I only had the parts and your skill set. Quote
usaeatt2 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Report Posted September 29, 2015 Thanks Jared! It's never too late to start learning a new skill and nobody can ever take away your education!! Places like TechShop and Maker Space have classes and equipment to help people learn new skills. They are becoming popular and opening locations in lots of cities. I believe in their philosophy enough to invest heavily in their stock, which helps fund more locations. Get out there and start learning!!! Aaron Quote
chimpy Posted October 11, 2015 Report Posted October 11, 2015 Sir, that build is amazing, I shall now throw my pre-built E-11 in the bin... Matt Quote
usaeatt2 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Report Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) Thanks, Matt. I'm honored to receive your very first post!!! DON'T throw your E-11 in the bin - use the information on the FISD to improve it!!! Edited October 11, 2015 by usaeatt2 1 Quote
charlesnarles Posted October 12, 2015 Report Posted October 12, 2015 Speechless, Aaron! Bookmarked the heck out of this one. And it is indeed inspirational, for the record. I learned a lot, and feel pumped for doing mine soon.<br> We still need a final shot held by you dressed out 1 Quote
Machinimax Posted October 12, 2015 Report Posted October 12, 2015 Wow this is a jaw dropping build! Beautiful is an understatement! 1 Quote
cjdesign[TK] Posted November 5, 2015 Report Posted November 5, 2015 (edited) Trying to research the legalities of doing a build like this, with a parts kit of my own. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33798-legal-sterling-conversion-in-cali/ I thought using the original bold and inner barrel on a blaster build is illegal? Edited November 5, 2015 by cjdesign Quote
Twnbrother Posted November 6, 2015 Report Posted November 6, 2015 Wow... this is an impressive thread Aaron. 1 Quote
usaeatt2 Posted April 23, 2016 Author Report Posted April 23, 2016 (edited) Hi guys, it's been awhile, but I've been thinking about this update for months. As Carl mentioned above, fabricating a replica with a parts kit and a real barrel IS ILLEGAL. Because of this, I came VERY close to cutting my replica in half, but I thought there must be a better way... I designed the following part in Rhino 5 and got it machined at a local CNC machine shop. I believe this part will solve all of my issues and qualify my blaster as "demilled". I call it a "Sterling Spool". The spool is SOLID, no bore. The solid rear end of the spool will be clearly visible through the ejection port when the bolt is retracted. It has four 7/16" holes cross drilled through the tapered "barrel" area. These holes line up perfectly with the 7/16" holes in the receiver. The rear hole will be fitted with a 7/16" pin. The pin will be rosette welded to the receiver, top and bottom. After welding, the spool can't be removed from the receiver without serious modifications. T-track covers the top weld and the stock covers the bottom weld. The folding stock can be opened to show the bottom weld, if desired. The remaining 3 cross drilled holes are to show the spool could never be made into a functional barrel, even if someone tried to bore and rifle it. These holes will be plainly visible through the row of receiver holes that doesn't have a T-track - this should help with any kind of inspection. The front end is threaded exactly the same as a real Sterling barrel and original Sterling hardware works just fine. With the spool installed, my blaster becomes nothing more than a nut cracker that looks like a gun. This modification makes it clearly IMPOSSIBLE to chamber a round or fire the gun. I'll be welding this spool piece into place very soon and I'll post pictures of the process. ENJOY!!! Aaron Left to right: real barrel, resin barrel and my spool Edited April 23, 2016 by usaeatt2 2 Quote
kevin926 Posted April 24, 2016 Report Posted April 24, 2016 That looks great. Question. Wouldn't your resin muzzle suffice for the legal issue. Quote
usaeatt2 Posted April 24, 2016 Author Report Posted April 24, 2016 (edited) A resin barrel will not satisfy the legal issue. Why? Just using bolts, the resin barrel could be easily removed and a real barrel installed = illegal. I've seen legal demils with welded bolts (so they can't be removed), but welded bolts REALLY detract from the appearance. Going a step up, I could install a resin barrel with bolts AND a welded cross pin, but a resin barrel would melt while welding the pin. Trust me, I've been thinking about this for months. Mine is an expensive solution, but I think it will satisfy all the legal obstacles. Edited April 24, 2016 by usaeatt2 2 Quote
sla73 Posted April 24, 2016 Report Posted April 24, 2016 Can't believe I just found this build. More wow! Quote
kevin926 Posted April 24, 2016 Report Posted April 24, 2016 Yeah, that's why I'm using resin details in front and the rear of the gun. Also the main reason why I didn't buy the sterling set from apex. I was just over concerned about what was legal and what could get me in trouble. Even though my build is aluminum, it's still metal and if you can making a working gun out of paper and plastic, you can certainly make a better built version of my build fire with the correct pieces. By me using your resin set, there would be no reason to get me in trouble other than not having the front orange. 1 Quote
usaeatt2 Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Posted May 23, 2016 EXCELLENT results in the shop call for a musical link before getting started... ROYAL THUNDER Live at Saint Vitus Bar My wife and I went to see this band in Chicago a few weeks ago. POWERFUL female vocals and guitar work. The sound guy had the master volume at "blood shooting from your ear drums" level, and it was GOOD. REALLY GOOD. Recapping, I used Rhino 5 software to draw up a SOLID aluminum barrel and had it CNC machined at a local shop. I haven't done my personal blaster yet, but I completed installation of a solid barrel for a friend. In addition to using the original Sterling hardware, the barrel is PINNED and WELDED into the receiver. This replica uses a CNC steel receiver and a 7/16" stainless steel pin to permanently install the aluminum barrel (TIG welded with E309 rod). Believe it or not, THIS barrel was a machine shop screw up - they were going to toss it in the scrap bin, but I figured out a way to make it work. The dummy barrel CANNOT be removed without doing serious damage to the receiver. This also means this replica can NEVER chamber or fire a round of ammunition. I'm QUITE pleased with the results!!! 2 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted May 24, 2016 Report Posted May 24, 2016 (edited) Awesome interior photos, Aaron (knowing how hard it is to get a few good ones ) A massive effort to not get in conflict with your gun laws! Any plans for a different paint job than last time? Edited May 24, 2016 by T-Jay Quote
usaeatt2 Posted May 24, 2016 Author Report Posted May 24, 2016 Thanks Tino, I'm leaning towards KG Gunkote again (because it is resistant to scratches and chips), but it's worth considering a different coating this time... With the barrel welded in the receiver, getting a good coating on the interior will be a challenge. Without a coating, the gun starts rusting almost immediately. For complete coverage and corrosion protection of hidden areas, it would be best to "dip" the entire gun. Perhaps a traditional gun bluing? After that, I can top coat with anything in an effort to replicate the original Sterling finish. I WISH I had your paint and weathering talent!!! Aaron Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted May 24, 2016 Report Posted May 24, 2016 Send it to me and I will weather it for you - but I cannot promise to ever ship it back Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted May 24, 2016 Report Posted May 24, 2016 Beautiful job Aaron. If there is one skill I wish I learned it would be welding. So many cool things you can do or make if you know what you are doing. I did a small amount of welding in sculpture class during my university years but never quite got the hang of it. <br><br> I love the look of the blaster as is. I gotta looking into what gun bluing is. Sounds interesting. Quote
usaeatt2 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Report Posted May 26, 2016 I completed installation of a "Sterling Spool" on my personal replica today. Referencing Brian's interest in gun bluing (above), I wasn't sure about aluminum, so I did some research. As it turns out, traditional bluing only works on steel and stainless steel, which is PERFECT, since I want a shiny aluminum barrel and everything else satin black. Just a personal preference and the shiny barrel will only be visible through the row of holes in line with the bayonet lug - the rest of the holes will be covered by T-tracks. Following is the process of pinning and welding a dummy barrel into my replica. I had to file back the black KG Gunkote to prep the surface for a good weld. I was shocked to find the Gunkote in the immediate area totally withstood the heat of TIG welding. No blistering or peeling. Brilliant product! I'm even MORE impressed with it now. Stainless steel pin fitted: This angle is almost like an optical illusion...You can see the barrel, then it disappears, then reappears a few holes later. Upon final assembly, all of this will be hidden by the T-track. Pin welded top and bottom. I did quite a bit of build up with the filler rod, which would leave plenty to grind flush. Grinding and filing completed: Here's that "optical illusion" shot again! At first, I only added the 3 barrel holes as an additional way to PROVE this replica could NEVER fire a round, even if someone tried to bore it out. After completing two installations, I LIKE the barrel holes. Makes for interesting pictures! I found a gunsmith in my area that does professional hot bluing, so that will be my next step before reassembly. Aaron 1 Quote
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