T-Jay[TK] Posted May 26, 2016 Report Posted May 26, 2016 Aaron, please correct me if I am wrong but this is not going to work. I fully understand your idea behind that inner barrel, but the stainless steel pin currently blocks a hole that you will later need for your T-track. You need to save the last 2 receiver holes (for scope rail and T-track). In your barrel you made a total of 4 holes. Any chance to move that steel pin to another one? Quote
usaeatt2 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Report Posted May 26, 2016 (edited) Ugh. Good call, Tino. I left the last hole open for T-track...totally FORGOT about the scope rail. After welding, removing the pin is almost impossible without destroying the receiver. I REALLY glad somebody caught this BEFORE I paid for professional bluing... THANK YOU, Tino, for your keen powers of observation. I might be able to salvage it, but that's going to mean more drilling, cutting and welding and it's already kind of a Frankenstein gun... Looks like I'll be starting over now. Aaron Edited May 26, 2016 by usaeatt2 Quote
Lichtbringer Posted May 26, 2016 Report Posted May 26, 2016 Mistakes happen, but your work looks good. Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted May 26, 2016 Report Posted May 26, 2016 WHAT??? Sleep about it, maybe there is another option... After all the work you have put into this, I would feel really bad if you need to replace the receiver. What about drilling or mill-cutting that stainless steel pin and installing a new one into the next hole? Quote
usaeatt2 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Report Posted May 26, 2016 Drilling stainless is tough, but maybe worth a try. Lord knows I don't want to go through all the silver soldering again! Per your suggestion, I think I'll weld a stainless pin in the next hole forward, then take the whole thing to the machine shop to see if they can mill out the back pin. Still can't believe I did this!!! I've been wanting to install a dummy barrel in my blaster for so long that I guess I got in a hurry today... Haste makes waste! Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted May 26, 2016 Report Posted May 26, 2016 (edited) Aaron, I am so sorry for this and will keep fingers crossed for your work-around... Edited May 26, 2016 by T-Jay 1 Quote
kevin926 Posted May 27, 2016 Report Posted May 27, 2016 (edited) Can't you just shorten the piece going into the hole for the rail Edited May 27, 2016 by kevin926 Quote
usaeatt2 Posted May 27, 2016 Author Report Posted May 27, 2016 Can't you just shorten the piece going into the hole for the t track Kevin, if I could drill a shallow hole for the t-track, then I'd be half way to replacing the pin. The receiver is only 1/16" thick, but the entire area is now an alloy of E309 stainless weld and the original receiver steel = really hard. Like dulling a lot of drill bits hard. It would probably be best to let the machine shop have a go at this where they can continuously spray the drill bit/end mill with coolant. I'll have to do a bunch of careful measuring and punch my best guess for the exact center of the hole. Hopefully, a carefully placed hole drilled on each side of the receiver will allow me to tap the pin out without damaging the barrel. Before any further building, I'm thinking I should go read the entire E-11 Reference Guide again... Quote
usaeatt2 Posted May 27, 2016 Author Report Posted May 27, 2016 Warning: the following may contain content that might be disturbing to some viewers. Viewer discretion is advised. Well, the machine shop can't get to this for 3 weeks, so I pulled out a brand new 7/16" drill bit and had a go on my drill press. I was able to drill out the welds, but due to good penetration, the holes needed to be larger than 7/16" to separate the pin. The worst hole in the receiver is on the bottom and will be covered by the folding stock. Good news? The spool came out without any notable damage. I'll lay some "Roy" track over the top, damaged hole to see if I need to rebuild the edges with weld. Then weld a pin through the FRONT barrel hole... This seemed more dramatic yesterday - Today, it seems like it can be salvaged. If nothing else, it'll have character and look well used... Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted May 27, 2016 Report Posted May 27, 2016 Very glad to see you solved that problem, Aaron. The bigger hole can surely get covered with Roy's track. (...) This seemed more dramatic yesterday - Today, it seems like it can be salvaged. (...) Like said earlier: sleep about it Many things are seen different the day after. Really happy you don't have to start over. Now I am curious on that gun bluing... Quote
usaeatt2 Posted May 27, 2016 Author Report Posted May 27, 2016 I found unbelievable good fortune in my toolbox today... In the punches and pins drawer, I found a solid copper cylinder the exact same size as a Sterling bolt. You may or may not know, but welding doesn't work on copper. This means I had a PERFECT backer for adding welds to reshape the over sized holes. This looks messy, but it gets better. Filling in the outer edges of the hole. Here's the tragic hole all cleaned up. Not perfect, but good enough to be covered by the t-track. And finally, back to welding the dummy barrel and pin. This time I used the furthest forward hole (I like the 3 empty holes in a row and didn't want to interrupt that). A little careful grinding and I should be back on track. WHEW!!! Dodged a bullet this time! Aaron 3 Quote
sla73 Posted May 27, 2016 Report Posted May 27, 2016 that was a great save Aaron ... Glad this is working out.. 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted May 28, 2016 Report Posted May 28, 2016 Seriously Aaron, without knowing it, nobody would be able to tell from that earlier problem when looking at your second photo now. You did a very good repair! 1 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted June 7, 2016 Report Posted June 7, 2016 I found unbelievable good fortune in my toolbox today... In the punches and pins drawer, I found a solid copper cylinder the exact same size as a Sterling bolt. You may or may not know, but welding doesn't work on copper. This means I had a PERFECT backer for adding welds to reshape the over sized holes. This looks messy, but it gets better. Filling in the outer edges of the hole. Here's the tragic hole all cleaned up. Not perfect, but good enough to be covered by the t-track. And finally, back to welding the dummy barrel and pin. This time I used the furthest forward hole (I like the 3 empty holes in a row and didn't want to interrupt that). A little careful grinding and I should be back on track. WHEW!!! Dodged a bullet this time! Aaron It isn't as bad as your thing, but I've cut my share of tracks wrong not thinking properly about the location of the scope rail. Loos like you really salvaged it though. well done. If I was on your spot, I might just have glued that part of the track down instead of trying to get it into the hole Well, maybe not... but I might have tried until it bugged the crap out of me. Quote
Ripper_L[Admin] Posted June 9, 2016 Report Posted June 9, 2016 Dude, your work is amazing. I will use a lot of it as a reference for my aluminium blaster build If you have any tips for me, check out my thread! http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35867-aluminium-e-11/Continue the Great work!Best Regards,Danny TK-55550 Quote
usaeatt2 Posted June 14, 2016 Author Report Posted June 14, 2016 It isn't as bad as your thing, but I've cut my share of tracks wrong not thinking properly about the location of the scope rail. Loos like you really salvaged it though. well done. If I was on your spot, I might just have glued that part of the track down instead of trying to get it into the hole Well, maybe not... but I might have tried until it bugged the crap out of me. Thanks, Derrek. Yeah, I thought about it for about 3 seconds... By then, it ALREADY bugged the crap out of me. Quote
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