I'm Batman[501st] Posted April 8, 2014 Report Posted April 8, 2014 After such inspiration from the current top quality build threads out there (I won't name names, cause I'll miss some no doubt - I'll give them credit during the build), I'm about ready to start my next build. Already have a Hasbro conversion, but now I'm ready for something a little more authentic. I will be stealing (borrowing/using) ideas from these other threads - working button on the counter, see through scope, moving inner bolt, working trigger, switches, and already have a real folding stock ready to go, to name a few. Which kit is going to best for me? Doopy's Pipe build, Doopy's full kit, DVH pipe build? Will the resin be strong enough to support a working folding stock, or will I need extra screws to support it, which means I won't be able to have a sliding inner bolt? With a thin pipe, will I need extra screws/pins, again meaning I can't have a moving bolt? I like the pipe build way as the thinner walls will make the sliding bolt look better. Full kit has T-Tracks pre installed and included. Is resin to resin a more solid joint, or is resin to PVC just as strong? Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted April 8, 2014 Report Posted April 8, 2014 This has been recently discussed. The full doopy kit is capable of supporting your genuine folding stock I assure you. As you saw, there are modifications that need to be done because of the thickness of the main receiver. Which leads to your desire to have a moving bolt. I can tell you right now that the thickness of the main body of the full Doopy kit will make that close to impossible unless you bore the entire receiver out evenly. If you want the bells and whistles blaster, I would go for the pipe build. You can get acrylic tubing that matches the specs of the real Sterling receiver perfectly. I built one and I love it. I'm not gonna tell you it's an easier way to go. You will need to source T-tracks, a scope and counter. You will need to cut out all the openings based on the templates available here. The acrylic is a little brittle so you will need patience. Because of the lack of body, nothing can be threaded into the acrylic like the resin of the Doopy kit. Avery good adhesive or screws must be used. But if you want ultimate accuracy, I believe that's the way to go. Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted April 8, 2014 Report Posted April 8, 2014 Hi Ian, ouuuuh, your posting sounds very interesting! To decide which kit is best for you, it should be taken into account what the blaster will be made for. A stable result will be usefull for trooping (and might lack some details), while an untouched pure display build can be more fragile (but with a lot of details). And if the build is for a mannequin, the weight will also be of importance... Good luck with whatever you choose :-) Quote
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted April 9, 2014 Report Posted April 9, 2014 We'll be watching with great interest, Ian!! Can't wait to see it get underway. Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Posted April 9, 2014 Yeah, looks the the 3 posters here are the holders of most of my ideas, sorry plans. I reckon I'll be struggling to come up with any fresh ideas. We'll see....... I'm leaning towards the new DVH pipe build about to become available. Apart from the obvious weight difference, any pros of cons for using steel/aluminium pipe instead of PVC. Steve has already touched on acrylic tubing to match ID & OD dimensions. Quote
usaeatt2 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Posted April 9, 2014 I'm almost hesitating to post since you got replies from the "major league" blaster builders in less than a day. I'm not worthy!!! If I could ever get off work for more than 8 hours, I would start my steel pipe build - I've got everything for the build (and more) just laying on the workbench. Aside from the weight difference you mentioned already, attaching resin components securely might be an issue. I plan to TIG weld a new receiver tube to a real Sterling parts set, then use silver solder to attach the remainder of the components. Then there's the legal issue of physically ensuring this new weapon CANNOT be fired. My steel tube matches the original parts EXACTLY. 1.5" OD X 0.065" WALL X 1.37" ID. If it weren't for my ability to TIG weld, I'd probably go for the DVH pipe build. Good luck with your decision and can't wait to watch your build! Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted April 9, 2014 Report Posted April 9, 2014 On 4/9/2014 at 12:18 PM, usaeatt2 said: Have you ever thought about doing a Bapty blaster Aaron? Quote
usaeatt2 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Posted April 9, 2014 I didn't know there was a difference - I thought Bapty was just the gun shop that made the original E11's. The pictures look like a solid casting? Aluminum? Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted April 9, 2014 Report Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) They made really nice custom-replicas of e-11 for ANH/ESB which were screen-used. I do not know precisely what material they used, others blaster armourers would certainly know it, but here's an interesting link about the specificities of these blasters: http://www.originalprop.com/blog/movie-guns/star-wars-episode-iv-a-new-hope/ Also here's a comparison thread posted by a fellow membner of the German Garrison: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25183-blaster-comperison-bapty10-vs-bapty20/ And a very recent build thread, once again by a German member: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26834-making-of-tunisian-e-11-blaster/#entry339585 Edited April 9, 2014 by The5thHorseman Quote
Felice Posted November 9, 2014 Report Posted November 9, 2014 What's about your project Aaron? Your base is the best to start a Tunisia Blaster, aka Bapty (this sound cooler but is historical wrong;-) ) even if it is flipped: the end barrel was the replica and the rest the sterling.... Have fun my friend and post some new pics Cheers! Quote
usaeatt2 Posted November 9, 2014 Report Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) What's about your project Aaron? Your base is the best to start a Tunisia Blaster, aka Bapty (this sound cooler but is historical wrong;-) ) even if it is flipped: the end barrel was the replica and the rest the sterling.... Have fun my friend and post some new pics Cheers! I could be reading into this, but it seems like there's confusion...this is Ian's thread. Ian's build here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29089-dvh-pipe-build-with-extras/?p=369629 Aaron's steel pipe build here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/?p=341555 Aaron's carbon fiber build here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29140-carbon-fiber-e-11-build/?p=370306 Edited November 10, 2014 by usaeatt2 Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 9, 2014 Report Posted November 9, 2014 What do you plan on using for an adhesive to bond the CF with the resin parts? Quote
usaeatt2 Posted November 10, 2014 Report Posted November 10, 2014 On 11/10/2014 at 7:48 AM, gazmosis said: What do you plan on using for an adhesive to bond the CF with the resin parts? I could be reading into this, but it seems like there's confusion...this is Ian's thread. Ian's build here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29089-dvh-pipe-build-with-extras/?p=369629 Aaron's steel pipe build here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/?p=341555 Aaron's carbon fiber build here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29140-carbon-fiber-e-11-build/?p=370306 Epoxy for bonding. Carbon fiber tube shop sells an epoxy called "Loctite Hysol 9430" which they use to splice carbon fiber tubes together to make camera booms. I figure if it will hold tubes together with an expensive camera on the end, at high speed, it should be able to hold resin blaster parts... Quote
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