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Posted (edited)

Armor:ATA

Helmet:ATA

Blaster:Hasbro with DoopyDoos

 

Height: 5'7"

Weight:180

Boots:TKBoots

Canvas Belt:Trooperbay

Hand Plates: ATA

Electronics: Aker

Neck seal: Trooperbay

Holster: Darman

 

 

image_zps4d6022ff.jpg

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Edited by Zixx
Posted (edited)

Somehow I missed the front shot of my bucket.....so here it is!

 

 

 

image_zps364b052d.jpgAnd somehow I missed the front shot of my bucket......so here it is.

Edited by Zixx
Posted

Best of luck trooper it looks good.

 

While I dont think its necessary for EIB, I would recommend painting your rivets on the ab/kidney.  And later on down the road if you look to go for a more screen accurate look try and find some solid domed  rivets.

 

It looks really good though! 

Posted

Best of luck trooper it looks good.

 

While I dont think its necessary for EIB, I would recommend painting your rivets on the ab/kidney.  And later on down the road if you look to go for a more screen accurate look try and find some solid domed  rivets.

 

It looks really good though! 

Thank you! Much appreciated. And yes I've been meaning to address those rivets.Since I've posted I've been over scrutinizing my armor. ^_^

Posted

Hey Jason:  I want to follow up on my promise to get to your application tonight and here I am! Thank you for your application to the EIB program! Let's look at your armor!

 

CRL Requirements:

With the picture of the front of your helmet, your photo requirements are complete. You have a nice set of armor and are so close to your EIB award. However, The thermal Detonator is an important part of the TK armor.  This needs to be constructed correctly even for basic approval. The control panel in the center is upside down. This is a pic of a screen used "TD" from the archive photos available here.gallery_12157_16_407.jpgTake care of this little issue and I will certainly pass you.

 

Other-Armor Fit/Assembly:

There are items the "Centurion Suggestions" that could go under this category but I felt they were more important there because they affect Centurion appllication if that is the direction you choose to go. 

The one suggestion that doesn't affect any application outcome but helps to look a little more accurate is the tube stripes on your helmet; particularly the end ones. You have the Dave M "hand painted look" helmet decals. Trooperbay sets these on the sheet according to the side they should be applied to.....including the tube stripes. On yours the last two tube stripes begin to curve inward towards the frown. They should actually curve outward away from the frown like these.MVBRfHL.jpg?1Since they are just decals, you can gently pull up the last two on each side and re position them. This is a suggestion for correctness but again, not a requirement. 

 

Centurion Suggestions:

Centurion is the ultimate in attention to detail to come as close to film accurate as possible. There is some work that needs to be done with your armor if you plan on applying for Centurion.

First is your blaster. I know that is obvious but I must state it. A British Sterling based blaster is required.

Latex or rubber like handplates and rubber chemical gloves,

Next, you will need to install a male snap on the upper rightmost corner of your ab plate.

Next, The straps that connect your belt drop boxes to the waist belt need to be minimal. If a pencil can fit between the belt box and the belt, that is almost too much. Yours are a little excessive.

Next is the ammo pack on the lower right thigh. Fir Centurion, it needs to be attached to the thigh by a cap or speed rivet in the top corner like this:31y5.jpgAlthough not required, the rivets are usually painted white after installation. 

Next are the left side rivets on your ab and kidney plates. They need to be switched out for domed, solid head split rivets instead of pop rivets. Also, the rivet placements are correct in that they are located 10 MM in from the seam. However, they are a little bunched up. They should be evenly spaced from top to bottom. Here ar the rivets from a screen used suit. With the belt on, the bottom rivet isn't even seen.gallery_12157_16_12210.jpg

 

Take care of your Thermal Detonator and get your EIB first and then you can gently work your way up to Centurion. 

Posted (edited)

I will take care of the detonator first thing tomorrow morning. As far as the Centurion items, I already made a list and everything you mentioned is on it. Thanks so much for the feedback. Look for the corrected detonator photos by noon tomorrow. Thank you sir! And now that I think about it......I took my detonator apart before I submitted to move the hooks closer to the end caps and in my bustle putting it back together I reversed it, so up until 2 days ago it was correct. :laugh1: at myself. Silly mistake

Edited by Zixx
Posted

We all get excited! Thanks for getting on that. You obviously put a lot of thought and work into your armor. With a little work you can get to Centurion if you wish to do that. I will check back later today.

Posted

TD put into correct position, repositioned hooks, replaced rivets with correct screws painted black. :D And what's costume building without a little blood? (I drilled my wrist a bit) Thanks again for your consideration! I've already started to work towards Centurion!

 

 

 

895F3B98-0637-48BB-8C1A-B4F25F183CA1_zpsE60FFA58-4248-4C92-8B35-AD16B77DCF92_zps

Posted

Hey Jason! Sorry about the wound! Hope it healed up OK. 

 

Anyway, thank you for correcting the upside down control panel on your Thermal Detonator. It looks a lot better that way ;) !!! With your correction I would like pass you to EIB status! Congratulations!!!!!!

 

Now, to your list of upgrades for Centurion, there will need to be some upgrades on your Detonator. First are the metal clips. The belt hook portion looks way too long. Here is a set of clips to give you an idea of how tall the rear portion should be.DSCN0573_zpsbdf3da64.jpgand again, refer to the pic of the screen used detonator above. You may also notice the width and thickness differences. The more accurate ones should be made from 1/16th aluminum roughly 1 inch to 1 1/8 inch wide. This is available for a good price at Lowes is you have one nearby.Your screws look to be phillips head drywall screws. Many people use slotted panhead screws that are 1/4 inch or 6 MM across the head which come really close to the originals.  A little touch with a black marker and you can't tell. Let me know if you have any questions. Sorry for the delay on the response.

Posted

AWESOME! Very excited. Thank you so much. I have done most of the work I need to do to submit for Centurion. I need to change my AB/Kidney rivets and am working on a sterling based blaster and now will fix the TD clips and screws and I should be ready!

Posted

Congrats and welcome to the ranks

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