Full resin E-11 from DoopyDoo's with some modifications

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Oh my god, you're a genius!!! I spent so much time finding the right curves on mines so they fit my PVC pipe... It would have been so much easier with that trick

 

Your reset button on the hengstler seems a bit long to me though:

 

 

That blaster with a TM armor... Damn you will be totally kick*a*s*s 

Edited March 27, 2014 by The5thHorseman

[T-Jay[TK]]

Thank you all for your kind words . Really nice to get such replies.

 

@ Simon (SIMpixels): it only got like that because of your diagram with Vern's measurements . And your extra added 0,5mm between reset button and counter window were very good!

 

@ Steve (gazmosis): just checked your build and saw, you have already glued the shrouds for priming. If you try thinning them now, you might damage the area around... Any chance to still remove them without breaking?

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): had exactly the same problem but suddenly there was a loud 'click'    Man, you're an eagle-eye on details . The length of my reset button may seem a bit long due to different angles of the photos, but although it is not pushable, I can move it in and out for about 2mm (the white gum in the picture is permanent elastic and will later get removed). So I just have to push it a bit deeper when I glue it. And thanks for the last words with the small letters  

[gazmosis[501st]]

The thinning of the shrouds is a cool mod but not practical at this point of my build. Like you said: too much chance of something going bad here. Put that in the "for the next build" file

[T-Jay[TK]]

Hello again to update #05

 

It starts with the rear end of the "bolt". The only thing I found to make this, was a massive piece of hard plastic (t=10mm). The sides got paper-sanded conical and the top got rounded a little bit. That day I wished to have a belt sander... One end is curved to cuddle up to the charging handle. Next was the diagonal strip on the ejection port. I sanded down the incorrect resin with Dremel and paper.

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): the issue with the round base of the charging lever will later be fixed when it comes to painting these parts.

 

 

 

Before continuing there, my two-layered bolt got improved a bit by changing the inner plastic tube. The new one goes all the way through to the muzzle and therefore has the bigger diameter on both ends. Re-drilled the hole for the charging lever and one for the scope rail. When it is later painted, it will be visible through some of the side holes.

 

 

When looking through a few reference pictures (again ), I realized the original bolt doesn't end at the point, where the spring pushes against it. There is an outstanding part in cylindrical shape (but with smaller diameter) to securely hold the spring. The inner diameter of my self-made spring was a bit more than 15mm, so I was lucky to find a green board-marker pen with an outer diameter of 15mm. It fitted very well and had a nice looking shape at the end.

 

 

The colour coating got sanded down and revealed the aluminium body. As I did not want to start a mess by cutting the marker in half and having the liquid colour pollute everything, I simply decided to insert it completely into the bolt  . Only one hole for the charging handle had to be added - but no colour oozed out of it.

 

 

Was happy with the result but my only concern now is: will this E-11 shoot green lasers instead of red ones???

Thank you for reading. Next update will (hopefully) follow shortly.

Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): the issue with the round base of the charging lever will later be fixed when it comes to painting these parts.

 

Anticipating criticism, i like it 

 

However, can't you cut a channel into your two layered bolt and the marker so the rear end bolt you have made can be inserted inside the rod and then not sit flush with the barrel outer diameter.

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): got you. My last pictures have a bad angle to show this, but the grey plastic piece is already a bit lower than the outer barrel.

Maybe not enough, so I will sand it down to get a better result. Thanks Germain for pointing out!

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

I just realized how complicated was my solution when you can just sand the bottom face of your rear end bolt for the same result  .

 

Think twice, post once 

[T-Jay[TK]]

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): sanded down the plastic piece a bit more  . It has now the same depth as the resin part in the ejection port. Here is a better picture:

 

[DarthChridan[TK]]

Awesome work so far, Tino...

I see you make a new bolt...great attention to the details

[T-Jay[TK]]

Thank you Daniel . Wait until you see my ejection port in the next update (hopefully soon) ...

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Looking great, Tino.  Really great.  I'm with Steve...  That thinning of the shields - brilliant - and also on the "Next time" list of mods.  LoL

 

Just a thought - on that counter button - without being able to see what is directly under it, you very possibly could do something very similar to what I did.  If there is any sort of recess beneath your button (or if you are able to create one) you could get a spring in there and perhaps use two channels on the sides where your button's "feet" are.  That was my original plan, but I realized that with the Doopy, it was less integral to have the feet extend any further.

 

Food for thought.

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Also, yeah... I'm not competing with anyone but myself, and the calendar, I suppose. .

 

I also think that it is awesome to see a group of build threads come along all at once and collectively push the envelope or raise the bar maybe when it comes to "what can be done" with the Doopydoos kit. I'm excited to be a part of it with you!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Hi Tim,

 

thanks for your input and suggestion.

The thinning of the shields could be a double-edged sword, because it reduces the surface for the glue, so the shields might eventually break off easier.

That should be of high interest to anybody who builds for trooping. As my blaster is only for a display, I didn't care about this .

 

The way you've made your counter button usable was exactly what I had in mind in the beginning. But unfortunately my original counter doesn't provide any space for the little spring to rest in.

Should have simply bought one with a reset button. However, I will continue thinking of realizing it somehow.

 

Regarding your 2nd posting: Now just imagine what people could reach with their future builds by picking up the best techniques, tricks and modifications from every thread and combining these!!!

 

If anybody is willing to create something like a "Blaster Build Manual" as a common source, containing all the information which is spread around, graphics and useful inputs, then I would be available to assist with setting that up! Sure, this would definitely cause a few organizing and owning issues for some persons, but I think it would be a benefit to countless more people, as this is a heavily frequented forum and the DoopyDoo's resin kit is also chosen very often. That would avoid so many mistakes before even being made...

 

Hm, it is just an idea...

 

 

Edit: 15 months later this idea became reality and the result can be found at the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference

Edited January 13, 2016 by T-Jay

[T-Jay[TK]]

Update #06      - the promised work on the ejection port

 

The diagonal strip got exchanged by a 1mm ABS plastic at the correct place. Roughly transferred the dimensions to the plastic, then cut it with standard scissors and filed it to fit. The finished ABS got warmed up with a heat gun, then bent and was held like that while it cooled down. It perfectly kept in shape for gluing.

 

 

 

Next was the extractor - don't know if this is the correct word, but you will surely know what I mean . When viewing reference pictures I realized, this had to be made of two different parts (round and square), being inserted into this bolt to look real. Made the recess with some drills and the Dremel. Luckily found a nice part in a ballpoint pen and cut it through. Damn, that is now the 3rd pen giving away its life for the blaster . Then I took another little piece from my earlier used plastic block and trimmed it in shape.

 

 

 

In the last pictures the white round part from the pen has NOT been pushed in! Will do this only when painting is completed, because I will never get it out there.

As you meanwhile have surely noticed, I am still looking for some modifications - just to run away from painting the thing .

Next update will reveal, if I found some more... Thank you for reading and let me know, what you think of the build so far.

 

Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Doopydoo's builds just keep getting better and better! A year ago, i had never seen anyone making this mod, and now it seems like it has become a "classic" mod  . But i like the fact you also took the time to work on the extractor (or whatever it is called!). It is often overlooked

 

And to keep you occupied before the painting i have a mod to submit to you. On my cast of an original inner bolt there is a serial number at the top, that you can also guess on the reference pics:

 

So... do you feel like you'd be able to recreate those?!? 

[Angevine[TK]]

Doopydoo's builds just keep getting better and better! A year ago, i had never seen anyone making this mod, and now it seems like it has become a "classic" mod  . But i like the fact you also took the time to work on the extractor (or whatever it is called!). It is often overlooked

 

And to keep you occupied before the painting i have a mod to submit to you. On my cast of an original inner bolt there is a serial number at the top, that you can also guess on the reference pics:

 

So... do you feel like you'd be able to recreate those?!? 

Oh Boy! would I love one of those inner bolts!!!

 

Are these for sale?

 

Take my money now!!!!!! 

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Oh Boy! would I love one of those inner bolts!!!

 

Are these for sale?

 

Take my money now!!!!!! 

 

In fact, it was part of a DVH kit which should become available again soon:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26797-returning-soondvh-e-11-pipe-build-kits-v2/

[T-Jay[TK]]

@ Germain (The5thHorseman) and Robert (Angevine): I'm absolutely with you. This inner bolt is fantastic . Really nice, but unrealizable with a full resin DoopyDoo's kit . You will always have the 'thicker walls'.

Regarding the small numbers in the bolt: already saw them on some ref pics and had a thought about it. Hm, let me see what I can do...

[Darth Voorhees[501st]]

In fact, it was part of a DVH kit which should become available again soon:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26797-returning-soondvh-e-11-pipe-build-kits-v2/

Yep

 

Robert if you want one shoot me a PM!

 

Tino this build is AWESOME!! Totally Loving it! Would love to see what you could do with a DVH kit

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

I'm building a really weird DVH based kit... will be an ESB promo greeblie!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Hi Lou, thanks for your kind words .

 

When I bought this resin kit, I was not aware of the nice DVH kit. Saw it later while doing research and thought it might have been the better choice - and it wasn't available at that time.

 

I am currently undecided about a 2nd build. On the one hand I've got so many required small parts left over and still a lot of colour in the spray cans. On the other hand I am really glad when this one is completed and I can get this damn resin dust out of my flat...

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Really nice, but unrealizable with a full resin DoopyDoo's kit . You will always have the 'thicker walls'.

Regarding the small numbers in the bolt: already saw them on some ref pics and had a thought about it. Hm, let me see what I can do...

Two ideas come to mind immediately: Two piece, spring-loaded bolt. You could grind down those thicker walls in the bolt area, and taper the back of the bolt so that as you drew the charging handle backwards, the piece of the bolt that is up against the opening would slide "inside" the smaller tube. Not positive how exactly it would work, but it has my wheels turning now.

 

As for the numbers in the bolt... If you could find some metal stamps (like for leather work) of the numbers, you might be able to heat them and press the numbers into the resin. Again... No practical knowledge here, pure speculation, but it might work out. I believe someone did something similar with some green stuff very recently, to change the serial number on a Doopydoos magazine.

Edited April 5, 2014 by Dark CMF

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

heat does not work well with resin

 

you could just go to an engraver and get him to run you off a strip.

Edited April 5, 2014 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

heat does not work well with resin

 

you could just go to an engraver and get him to run you off a strip.

Very good info, Vern. Thanks!

[T-Jay[TK]]

@ Tim (Dark CMF) and Vern (TK Bondservnt 2392): yes, it is better to engrave this, than pressing hot metal stamps into the resin. Tried that already, but it didn't work (just very slightly on the surface).

 

The person who changed the serial number on the magazine port with green stuff and metal stamps was me (first posting on page 1). I am already thinking about doing it that way again, but this requires much smaller stamps...

 

When I was working on the bolt parts, I already thought about a more realistic (and possibly moveable) solution. To thin out the rear section also came in my mind, but got rejected as I wasn't sure, if that would make the blaster unstable. And I don't have the tools to do this precisely. As I meanwhile started painting (my updates are currently delayed) it is now a bit late to realize this . But it would be very interesting to get some pictures of your suggestion...

Edited January 13, 2016 by T-Jay