Scratch Build From Templates vs. Resin Kit?

[trooper96[501st]]

Added checkering and a gloss finish to the grip.

 

Added checkering to the selector switch.

 

Scope with reticle insert.

 

Magazine and mag well detail.

[trooper96[501st]]

Tim and Ian,

Thanks for commenting. Words of encouragement are always welcome, especially from guys who have already made great looking blasters.

[haui[TK]]

How did you made the pattern on the Grip?

[trooper96[501st]]

I used fiberglass window screen. Place on top of flat part of grip, get angle right. Brush on glue (I used wood glue)/water mixture, allow to dry. Be sure to water down the glue enough (about 60% glue/40% water)so that it doesn't fill the screen and lose the texture. Use a small brush to push the mixture down into all the holes. The bubbles should disappear as the water evaporates. It will seem like it is not going to stick until the glue begins to cure and starts to get tacky.Use razor blade to trim to shape. Paint. The top coat of paint will also act as an adhesive/sealant for the screen.

The texture is a little more coarse than an actual Sterling grip, but it is reasonably close and feels better in your hand than the smooth grip.

[trooper96[501st]]

^^ Start with a piece slightly larger than the grip panel.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

That's a great idea and looks really good. I probably would have sat there for days carving out little lines with a knife. In fact, no, I wouldn't have tried it at all

[haui[TK]]

Thanks for that great tip i will try it at my grip this week.

 

[trooper96[501st]]

Ian,

Professional gunsmiths use a very specialized file for cutting checkering into a gunstock. Absent that option, I would also have abandoned any attempt to cut the checkered pattern myself. I would be afraid of butchering the grip. And it's just too much work!

 

haui,

One thing I may have done differently... Leave a small margin around the outermost panel lines. Some of the rough edges of the screen overhang slightly on mine. Doesn't look bad, but I know it's there.

 

 

On to more progress photos...

 

Scope and rail added to painted blaster. I had originally made a 3/4" x 1/8" rail. After looking at many pictures, I remade the rail with 3/4" x 1/16" material. I really like the 1/8" material better because it doesn't flex, but the 1/16" seems more screen accurate. Any thoughts?

 

 

 

 

Bonus picture... Has nothing to do with blaster building, but here is another just-for-fun project I have started.

 

[trooper96[501st]]

I stumbled across this, a Hasbro Boba Fett Electronic Blaster, and I believe it has the correct blaster sound for my E11. It seems to be much louder than the Hasbro E11 sound module, which also alternates between blast and ricochet sounds with each pull of the trigger (annoying). If I can find one for a reasonable price, I may try to use the sound module for my project.

 

 

Another bonus helmet pic... Here, I have added the ears and trial fit the brow trim. Starting to look like a legit ANH stunt trooper bucket...

 

[ZeroRoom[TK]]

That's looking so good Bryan! Nice work subbing in the window screen on the grip texture. Very precise work on the folding stock too - Looks great. 

Isn't it so much more satisfying to a scratch build? 

[trooper96[501st]]

Thanks, Lucas. I bookmarked and used a couple your threads during this process. Thanks for putting good and helpful information out there!

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18232-zerorooms-e-11-scratch-build-very-pic-heavy/

[Zarlon[TK]]

Looking good Bryan! Someday I'll work on a pipe build but for now I'm just trying to finish my Hasbro mod. Good luck to you!

[trooper96[501st]]

Thanks, Kyle. Glad to see you got your sound module working again. I had one of those blasters, but in black, when I was a kid. I think it may have been made by Kenner at the time. If I had any idea what a collectible was, I would have taken better care of it. But I did enjoy playing with it!

 

[trooper96[501st]]

Here's a little more progress... I cut out and assembled the end cap catch. Drilled and pinned in place. I will use part of a pen spring to make it functional. Should there be checkering on the end that gets pushed down? And two bumps on the other end, right?

 

Edited June 18, 2014 by trooper96

[trooper96[501st]]

End cap catch assembled and painted.

 

[ZeroRoom[TK]]

Should there be checkering on the end that gets pushed down? And two bumps on the other end, right?

 

 

Yes to both! Looking awesome. Glad you found those links useful too!

[ZeroRoom[TK]]

The cool thing about making a working catch for the end cap is that you can actually field strip your sterling completely and accurately 

[trooper96[501st]]

I am enjoying the challenge of making a few features functional on my blaster. My magazine is removable, I can pull the trigger, my folding stock locks in the open and closed positions, and now the end cap catch is functional. My next challenge is to make a bolt assembly that can be cycled and still look scale. I can't find a proper sized spring at my local hardware stores, so I have experimented with fashioning one from steel wire. I have tried clotheshanger wire, but I think it may be too soft. After a few compressions, it doesn't want to spring back. Is there a better way?

[ZeroRoom[TK]]

Yes there is! Go out and buy some 18 gauge wire - that is the correct wire gauge for the original Sterling springs and I've yet to come across anyone who's found a ready made spring in that gauge easily available.

Coat hanger wire is often referenced but you are right - it is just too 'hard' to wrap properly and even those with the determination to do it usually get bodgy results.

Then hand wrap the coil around a piece of pipe the exact same width as the *smaller* part of the bolt i.e. this part:

 

And make sure you get the measurements correct which is  210mm when uncontracted with a gap between each coil of approximately 13mm. 

 

Sskunky's amazing photos with measurements for the spring can be found on this page.

 

I found the 18 gauge wire strong but easy enough to form and it holds its shape well. Check my build again if you want to see how I made my bolt able to be cocked and slam forward with a pull of the trigger. I basically stole the functioning of the mechanism right off the real Sterling with details found in the classic "Guns of Dagenham" book which is seriously everything you need to know about the gun. Highly recommended if you can find it at a decent price.

Edited June 19, 2014 by ZeroRoom

[trooper96[501st]]

Thanks! I'll give it a go and post the results soon.

[trooper96[501st]]

Lord Vader dropped by unannounced today to check on my blaster building progress.

 

Me: Lord Vader, this is an unexpected pleasure. I am honored by your presence...

 

Darth Vader: You may dispense with the pleasantries, trooper. I'm here to put you back on schedule.

 

Me: I assure you, Lord Vader. I am working as fast as I can.

 

Darth Vader: Perhaps I can find new ways to motivate you.

 

Me: I tell you that this blaster will be completed as planned.

 

Darth Vader: The Emperor does not share your optimistic appraisal of the situation.

 

Me: But he asks the impossible! I need more time!

 

Darth Vader: Then perhaps you can tell him when he arrives.

 

Me: [alarmed] The Emperor's coming here?

 

Darth Vader: That is correct, trooper, and he is most displeased with your apparent lack of progress.

 

Me: I shall double my efforts.

 

Darth Vader: I hope so, trooper, for your sake. The Emperor is not as forgiving as I am.

 

...Guess I had better get back to work! If I end up being sent to the spice mines of Kessel or smashed into who knows what, you will know my blaster build went terribly wrong.