Scratch Build From Templates vs. Resin Kit?

[trooper96[501st]]

Question: I notice almost everyone here does a full resin or PVC/resin blaster. I have already completed a scratch build from templates I downloaded at the BBC (Blaster Builders Club) site, and started another using those same templates, along with some information/drawings I found on this site. It has been a very rewarding experience, though very challenging and time-consuming. Is there a reason most builders seem to be using the resin kits vs. scratch build? Are scratch built blasters approvable, or are resin blasters the standard?

 

My first scratch build, complete and painted... The folding stock is functional.

 

 

My second blaster, still a work in progress... Functional folding stock and trigger.

 

 

Is approval for a scratch build worth pursuing, or should I abandon these projects in favor of a resin kit?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Depending on details both types of builds are approvable, I preferred a pipe build with Doopy add-ons, reason mainly was weight and the ability to add lights and sound, we also add a amp jack so we can really pump out some blaster sounds, something you can't do with a resin blaster

[TK1636[TK]]

 I like the scratch built but it takes way to long to build compared to a full resin.

[DizzyStormtrooper[501st]]

as long as it meets crl requirements, what something is made of is irrelevant! youve got talent with those blasters. i also like having resin kits because the paices were cast off a real gun, makes things feel like youve got a piece of history. there is always the possibility of parts breaking/snapping off, so a scratch build could have the advantage of being more durable (hyperfirm excluded)

[trooper96[501st]]

ANH Stunt CRL:

 

BlasTech E-11

For 501st approval:

Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

 

For level two certification (if applicable):

Folding stock (does not need to function).

A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.

D-ring mounted on the rear.

Correct style scope.

Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.

Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.

 

For level three certification (if applicable):

Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

 

 

 OK, so the CRL looks pretty general. As it is based on a Sterling sub-machine gun design, my blaster should pass basic approval, no problems, right?

 

For EIB:

• Folding stock (does not need to function).
• Yes, and mine will be functional.

• A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
• My plan is to construct a replica from the blaster templates. Would that be approvable?

• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Yes.

• Correct style scope.
• My scope is dimensionally accurate, but made of wood. It looks very much like the correct scope, but how much detail is required?

• Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
• Yes, also scratch built..

• Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
• Yes. I have the correct number of tracks in all the right places, but the material I uses for the tracks is something I found at a local hardware store. Here's a close-up photo of what it looks like:

• No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.
• None present.

No details for Centurion approval, but I'm sure this is where the real world Sterling and Hengstler details become important. Can a scratch build progress to this level?

[trooper96[501st]]

Here's a couple of more progress pictures. I assembled the scope and worked on the magazine well details.

 

 

[trooper96[501st]]

To Do List:

End cap
D-ring
End cap catch
Rear sight apertures
Finish magazine details
Finish magazine well details
Finish stock and stock butt details
Scope rail
Hengstler counter
Targeting sensors
Bayonet lug
Selector switch
Hardware
Metallic paint undercoat?
Satin black paint overcoat
Weathering?
Gloss black paint for grip

Bolt
Charging handle
Buffer spring

 

Extras:

LED's?
Sound module?
Laser?
Switches?
Wiring?

[trooper96[501st]]

Should all E-11 blasters have some weathering, or is that more a sandtrooper thing? I think the weathering looks good regardless and would like to give it a try on my scratch build. Brass or copper undercoat on the scope? Silver or chrome undercoat on the blaster? What about hammered metal finish undercoating? Is the grip the only part that would not receive an undercoating? What about the t-tracks?

[trooper96[501st]]

Rear sight apertures and scope rail added.

 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Doing a great job Bryan. To confer with the others, as long as your blaster has the necessary details and is to scale, which it looks from the pics, that yours is, then there should be now reason why it would not be approved for Centurion either. Keep up the great work. I reckon yours could be looking better most Hasbros and as good as any resin blaster out there.

 

Question - What is your folding stock made from? Any close ups of where the pivot point is joined to the main pipe?

[trooper96[501st]]

Thanks, Ian. The folding stock arms are cut from a composite deck post sleeve. It's a kind of plasticized composite material, about 3/16" thick. It's cut out, heated, placed in a bending fixture (two wooden block halves with the bend profile cut into them), pressed together, then allowed to cool. The other plastic parts were cut from a vinyl screen door cap. I used a 3/8" wooden dowel for the pivoting rod that connects the frame with the butt. The pivot point where the stock arms attach to the main tube is 1/2" cpvc pipe (5/8" OD, yellowish color, not white) cut to length. I wrapped self adhesive sandpaper around a piece of material from which the main tube was made (1-1/4" gray pvc electrical conduit) and sanded the profile of the main tube into the pivot part. Alternatively, you could use a 5/8" wooden dowel.

 

Composite deck post sleeve:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_45607-10099-POST+SLV+COMP+100+WH_4294610164__?productId=4221682&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

 

Vinyl screen door cap:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_21554-958-BRCAP38_4294710990__?productId=3024744&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1%26page%3D2&facetInfo=

 

I will be glad to take more closeup pictures of the pivot point for you. Hopefully, I can have that tomorrow.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Wow, very impressive.

[trooper96[501st]]

Here you go, Ian...

 

 

 

A few more progress photos...

 

Selector switch

 

Butt stock locking mechanism

 

 

The whole thing so far...

[trooper96[501st]]

I saw where someone on this site did this and thought it would be a cool feature for my blaster. Since my scope is not functional, I made a reticle for the eyepiece with rebel soldiers in the crosshairs.

 

 

I know the movie blasters didn't have this feature, but I like it. If there's a better reticle image out there, please direct me to it. Here's the image I made...

 

[trooper96[501st]]

Here are some other reticles I found on the web.

 

 

 

 

[haui[TK]]

Hi

 

Looks great.

I think a scratch buildt blaster is much more work but when it is finished and you hold it in your hands it much cooler than a kit :-)

[trooper96[501st]]

Thanks, haui. It has been a long journey and still quite a ways to go, but I am enjoying the experience. I hope your scratch build is going well.

[haui[TK]]

Yes it is a lot of work but better than looking TV :-)

 

look here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27140-blaster-with-light-and-sound/

 

I'm missing the MP3 modul from china. The first was damaged and i sent it back and now i'm waiting.

At the moment i'm working at the scope and the end-cap.

Hope to finisch the end-cap today.

 

The scope is hand made but at the moment i'm thinking about to built 4  or 5 of them and sell them.

[trooper96[501st]]

I have been trying to work out the design for my end cap, trying to make something reasonably accurate from a 1-1/4" PVC coupling and flat plastic parts. I used SolidWorks to design this, pictured below. The challenge will be to cut the taper on the coupling OD and make the angles cuts on either side accurately. I have already cut some of the parts and they fit together nicely.

 

 

[trooper96[501st]]

Here's some other views.

 

 

[haui[TK]]

You Do it with Single Plastics Parts glued to a pvc Tube?

I Made it with a epoxy Kit and modelled it with tue dremel

[trooper96[501st]]

You Do it with Single Plastics Parts glued to a pvc Tube?

I Made it with a epoxy Kit and modelled it with tue dremel

haui,

Yes everything is hand made using the templates and other information I have found here. No kit parts. I have also found my Dremel to be an invaluable tool for this project.

[trooper96[501st]]

Time for a little paint. Here she is all stripped down to a basic Sterling and painted...

 

 

 

Still a few more details to add, but here she is with a few E-11 goodies added...

 

 

 

Scope has been painted and reticle insert added. Still working on the rail. Still to do...
End cap catch
Bolt and charging handle
Buffer spring
Barrel
Hengstler counter
Targeting sensors
Electronics

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Looking really good, Bryan!! Very nice.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

What he said ^^