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Posted

So as I have assembled most of the rest of the armor, I have reached the point of the shoulder straps and ammunition belt bending. I saw the tutorial posted on this site but it just says "low heat" and no specific numbers. I was wondering since this is just ABS plastic wouldnt a high powered hair dryer do? Or would I still need to go out and purchase a specific heat gun? Also after I get the curve I want how do I set it down to cool, without it warping or something? That might be a dumb question but I have never worked with these kinds of things before and dont want to ruin it. Thanks

Posted

I stick em in the oven at about 160 for 3mins or do. Just keep an eye on the ridges that they don't start to loose definition and go to soft. Take them out and bend them over a small saucepan. They'll cool pretty quickly if you run them under cold water.

Check them periodically while heating them.

Posted

I use a heat gun, others just sit the abs in boiling water, even the oven method will work, just make sure you keep checking to see if it bends, there's a fine line between softening abs to melting abs, like most things undertaken for the first time, try which ever method with some scrap abs first ;)

Posted

Hi Joey, when I first started I practiced on the ABS scraps.    Once I got the hang of it, I started on my armor.      I say practice first.    Here's a quick cool video (you don't have to buy their heat gun) on bending one strip of plastic.

 

Posted

Is that in Centigrades or Fahrenheit, Mark?

 

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Posted (edited)

I use a gas stovetop and hold the plastic in my hand.  I wave the part very quickly over the stove,

and the entire part does not have to be heated...

I use my bare hands. because if the plastic gets hot enough not to handle then you've gotten it

WAY TO HOT!

 

also... I just don't see the reason why the main belt on armor EVER needs heat.

you can simply bend the main armor belt carefully with NO HEAT

heck man... you don't even need to heat up the thigh belt?

 

the ONLY part that I use heat on... and very light heat at that is the rear 1/3 of the shoulder straps

I simply bend them by hand... into kind of a J shape... this way the fronts are flat.

 

ABS is fine in how the smaller parts are affected by simply bending with your hands...

the larger square parts of the thigh belt and the main belt are easy bent

near the ends of each square.  try it! you'll see that the whole heat concept can be overkill.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
Posted
Is that in Centigrades or Fahrenheit, Mark?

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

160 Centigrade. Or 325 Fahrenheit

 

You can go higher but at your risk.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Be careful with your testing!!!! The belts are much thinner than scrap ABS that may have come with your kit.  Be careful!

Posted

160 Centigrade. Or 325 Fahrenheit

 

You can go higher but at your risk.

 

 

 

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I personally would never do it this way... too risky.  my 02 cents

Posted
I personally would never do it this way... too risky. my 02 cents

 

It's just what you're comfortable doing. I've always done it this way with great results. As long as you keep checking the straps while they are heating up you shouldn't have a problem.

 

I actually find this method safer than a heat gun or holding it over a stove.

 

If you're not experienced with a heat gun you can easily hotspot the plastic and melt it.

 

Anyway you choose to do it you must be careful not to over hear it.

 

When putting it in the oven you generally get an even heat all over the straps and the whole thing will bend evenly. Just heating a small part of the strap you are more likely to get kinks or uneven bends.

 

But hey what do I know?

 

:laugh1:

 

 

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Posted

I'd just like to point out that you don't have to ever heat my 1.5mm ABS. You just bend it and it flexes without cracking. The belts and knee ammo straps are a breeze to fit.

 

Not so much with my 2mm acrylic capped ABS. That stuff you have to heat bend, the ammo strap anyway. My preferred method is the heat gun. I keep the gun pretty close to the plastic but use a quick, sweeping motion so I don't melt it. I would practise on scrap ABS if you have some to find out the melting point and see where your limits are.

 

Good luck :duim:

Posted

Good point Paul. I use 2mm so I guess you should choose the method that suits the material thickness you are using. 1.5 mm is more risky in the oven.

Posted

Absolutely. The key is finding the melting point prior to heating your belt. You don't get any warning before the belt starts to deform and there is no going back once the damage is done.

Posted (edited)

I should get out my moulds that are already bent. But they aren't as nice and the straight ones! Or make some more.

 

Mind you that wouldn't help you ANH or ESB troopers as my Rotj are different.

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Edited by sskunky
Posted

Absolutely. The key is finding the melting point prior to heating your belt. You don't get any warning before the belt starts to deform and there is no going back once the damage is done.

this is why I use the hand held method on my .90 abs.  if you leave the thinner abs in an oven like that.

it will melt down to a puddle.

 

each person's armor is different... and the formed armor is a different thickness on different parts. which changes it's point of viscosity!

Posted

this is why I use the hand held method on my .90 abs. if you leave the thinner abs in an oven like that.

it will melt down to a puddle.

 

each person's armor is different... and the formed armor is a different thickness on different parts. which changes it's point of viscosity!

I think viscosity is the wrong word in this case as that describes the friction between particles in fluid. :lol:

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