Doopy build...real Sterling folding stock

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

inner front barrel, larger spring area at the rear... from the looks of it, the pipe builds might be easier to make up!

 

this is a great build!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good, can't wait to see it finished

[gazmosis[501st]]

Did your 7/8" spring fit in the barrel on it's own, or did you have to stretch it to get it to fit? Also, what size is that allen screw in the magzine? I almost bought one yesterday, but I didn't know the size of it.

 

The spring fit without any modification to the diameter, Tim. I did, however, stretch it to come closer to the Sterling spring look.

 

Yeah, Tino, that set screw needed to be replaced!

[Cantina Security[501st]]

Pretty darn cool Steve.

[gazmosis[501st]]

Wow...thank you , Jason!

 

Oh and by the way Tim, the set screw measured 6 MM across the top and was a total of 10MM long

[gazmosis[501st]]

It's about time to get some ACTUAL paint on this blaster. First I wanted to get the gloss black onto the pistol grip. I wanted to mask the rest of the trigger group off as much as possible.I used an automotive gloss black for the greatest endurance. I will let this cure for a day before I try to paint anything else on it. I want this to be like iron. Next up was something that needs a great deal of attention. The scope. As you saw, I started with an acrylic cast scope. This helped out in that fact that once painted, it will have the appearance of lenses without actually being lenses. Anyway, after masking off the lenses, I hit the scope with several coats of matte black. After this dried, I wanted to tackle the color filling of the letters. I used the white crayon approach. However, I did not rub the crayon into the letters. I heated the crayon in a brass cup and dripped the hot wax onto the letters. I then carefully knifed away at the wax until the letters were all that was left. I then rubbed it down with a t-shirt to remove any residual crayon. I am happy with the result.Next was the weathering. I have an M 47 that I am using for my guide on howe the black has weathered off. I will use a thin bristled brush for the tiny details and a broader bristled brush for the dry brushing.I will use brass enamel for the color. This took a while but I am really happy with the way it turned out.Hopefully i will make some further progress soon.

[usaeatt2]

Looks like the real deal!  Your thumb also looks about 71 years old with weathering .  EXCELLENT WORK!  Unbelievable realism.  FINALLY, a great use for a white crayon!  And I assume you can at least see light through the scope?  On one hand, you're pushing the limits of what is possible with a resin build, but on the other, you're making me think twice about posting my build...  We're not worthy!!!   

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

my crayon tip lives on! simply cover it with clear.. helps keep in place

can't wait to see this puppy assembled!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Oh my god! That's why I don' t want to paint mine. I've got no idea, how to get it to THAT awesome look. Very well done!

Hm, I will send you my blaster parts for painting  You got the better hobby room anyway

Keep it up, man!

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

^ What he said.

 

Entirely. . Looking awesome, as expected, Steve!

[gazmosis[501st]]

Ok, now that I have some paint on some part of this blaster I feel a little better. But now is what we (including me) has all been waiting for........the crinkle paint on the main receiver!!! First, I am trusting Vern on this bit of info, but apparently there were some parts of the original weapon that DIDN'T get the crinkle finish. This includes the front most muzzle, the mag housing, and on the doopys kit, of course the front grips. I also masked off the ejection port and stock hinge nubs. those front grip were a pain in the booty to mask!!!ALAS....the moment of truth. I shook the hell out of this can for over 5 minutes. I set my phone for a 5 minute timer. This is the manufacturer's recommendation of time between coats. It did work in the test run. .........                                         OK paint applied...(head spinning from fumes.......)Directions on can: "do not spray indoors, use with adequate ventilation"...oh boy.

Again....the crinkle finish is a time thing. It will NOT occur like a paint mishap where it lifts the undercoats almost immediately. This should be about 2 hours before this happens.   SKIP TO NEXT MORNING:

 

IT WORKED!!!!!!!

I will remove the tape and it will have a long time to cure as I will be away for a week.

[TrainWreck[501st]]

Bravo!

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Texture is looking really good!

 

Will you mask the whole barrel when you'll paint the t-tracks, mag, etc, or just paint over the crinkled finish?

[gazmosis[501st]]

Texture is looking really good!

 

Will you mask the whole barrel when you'll paint the t-tracks, mag, etc, or just paint over the crinkled finish?

Thanks guys!   Germain: I will mask off the surrounding areas because the t-tracks will be painted a different color than the surrounding gun. The entire gun will have a different color. I am not going to leave it black. The folding stock that I have is way too much off color from the black to leave the main receiver color black. I plan on matching the receiver color to the folding stock to it doesn't look so pieced together. It will be a subtle difference but different nonetheless. Dark gunmetal gray will be the overall final color.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

That's right, i forgot you have the original stock colour to match. I hope the texture won't be all smoothened by the paint layers, would be a shame

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

A WEEK!?!?!

 

I guess I'll have to amp up my thread to keep the build appetites sated while you're away.  LoL - I've got to get mine finished soon, anyway.  Armor will be arriving

 

Looking really good, Steve.  Truly some masterful techniques displayed on this build, and I'm excited to see how it turns out in the end!

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

gotta remember there gaz... even the firing guns were painted flat black... perhaps you're going for a different approach.

sure... you can have it any way you want it to be... the original sterling parts you're using as a paint

guide were not used in star wars.  all the guns were hit with flat black...

 

the whole 'original sterling' paint situation is fun.... I'm sure!

 

personally myself I like the whole situation where people get to choose... but I like the whole blend in effect given to them

where they all were well painted.  brass showing though, and paint chipping was not really seen in the films

even with george's penchant for wear and tear...

 

when I look at the stormtrooper lineup, and the closeups on the tantive iv I see well painted flat black e-11 blasters.

it's true... I've done some weathered ones... but now I lean more towards the whole blend in effect.

if it were me, I'd brush on the flat black on the masked parts. and if you're going for a 'real sterling' look

then you're going to want a gunmetal blued effect on the magazine, with a black tint... as the original magazines have a slight blue hue under the black partially translucent gunblack stain.  the magazine well and trigger group sleeve are really a greyblack like on

the 'original' finish.

 

 

it's gonna be a gaz style all the way with this one!

 

BTW that crinkle finish style looks spot on! just a matte coat away from real!

 

(I would never thin out the case deflector or the front standoff on a resin blaster.)

Edited March 28, 2014 by TK Bondservnt 2392

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Wow...thank you , Jason!

 

Oh and by the way Tim, the set screw measured 6 MM across the top and was a total of 10MM long

6 x 10, got it!

 

Thanks. A few of those will be in my next shopping list when I run out to Lowe's.

[SorenM[TK]]

really really awesome build .....

[gazmosis[501st]]

Sorry it has been a while folks. Between my vacation time, an RS suit, a ATA TX suit, and this blaster, my time has been stretched but it's all coming together. All this time off gave the crinkle finish plenty of time to cure. Now I start with the final color scheme. I laid out all parts that I was going to paint so I wouldn't scramble or forget anything.  Here are my weapons of choice. I mixed these together until I arrived ata color that came close to the present color of the folding stock. I did not want to paint the stock. It has such gorgeous weathering already, why mess with that? The camera focussed on the background but you can see my paint tests  For max control of this paint, I will use the trusty airbrush.The paint dries quickly so I was able to get several coats onto all the parts. The paint goes on so thin that none of the wrinkle effect would be filled in. Although the coverage was good, I stepped back and convinced myself that the color was too light.I was right....it was. I mixed up some of the matte black and knocked down the color a bit. You will see this was a good decision later on. I let that dry for a day and moved onto the t-tracks. These were going to get matte black as well. The areas surrounding the t-tracks all needed to be masked off.These were hit with the airbrush as well.I gave these ample time to dry before messing with it further. While the grips were drying, I though I'd move onto some minor assembly. I needed to get the counter all squared away. I did a final trimming of the readout and glued both the readout and the sight glass in place.I also installed the screw on top.I never replaced the side screw so I touched it with some brass paint to make it look like I did. Tee hee! Grips had enough time to dry. Next was some off color parts that were fairly important to get close. These were the main charging bolt (both in the gun and the extension I built) the magazine release button, and the little cylinder on the back of the mag housing. This isn;t just a lighter gray. After playing with different colors, I came up with this combination.This is a military gray NOT the gunmetal. The gunmetal has an ever so slight bit of blueishness to it. I didn't want that on these parts. I originally thought I'd brush paint this color onto the parts but with the brass in the paint, it just wasn't going on smooth. Ot comes the airbrush again. Everything needed to be masked off. There were no other details to paint in this color, so after it has a chance to dry, I mixed silver with flat black to paint the tracking stripe on the bolts. I wish the picture didn;t come out so darn unfocused. With all the topcoat colors applied, I was able to put a little detail on the trigger group assembly. IT was a perfect time since I had this "dirty silver" as I call it for the areas underneath the trigger and on the sides.I ended up using this silver to do some weathering around areas of the whole blaster. You'll see that in a bit. I did weather up the power cylinders and touched the rear wires with some red markings.

I need to glue some pieces into place and final assembly can begin!!!!

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

SICK!

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Truly looking amazing, Steve!!!

 

Well done.

 

(I won't start the slow-clap until it is finished though. )

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

I'm curious, what glue did you use for the counter plexiglass?

[gazmosis[501st]]

Germain: I put 4 strategically placed dots of E6000 in the corners of the recess with a toothpick. I didn;t want any of it to show or squeeze out. E600 EATS paint on contact as I found out.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Thank Steve. And have you noticed any bleaching on your printed counter figures possibly due to e6000?