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Posted

That's a good idea with the crayon too. You could even then go back and pick some out carefully with an exacto in choice spots to match your weathering; as if some of the paint in certain spots of the letter has either flecked out or is not as "new looking". Weathering is my favorite thing to do on models too.

Posted

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Patiently waiting for some paint.

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If you turn on the ceiling fan, you'll have yourself a home defense "automatic sentry".Ā  Glad to see some paint being applied and REALLY looking forward to all the masking and weathering!Ā  What happened to your magazine clip?Ā  I thought you added one or it was includedĀ on theĀ magazine from Steve?

Posted

Mag clip will be a late addition, courtesy of Tino... ;)

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The one you saw here was on the mag from Steve.

Posted

Okay. AWESOME stuff got done today, but it will be in my second set of updates tonight. :D

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Here comes the first batch:

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In order to attach the Sterling folding stock to my Doopy, I've got to take it off of it's original mounting bracket by tapping out the pins in the outer housing of the bracket.

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The pins VERY SERIOUSLY resisted being removed. It took me nearly an hour of work to get them out. Ultimately, it was the tip of the screw in the picture here that allowed me to push the pins out. You see what happened to the brad that I tried to use...

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After removing the pins, you can pull the rivets out of the mounting bracket, as you see here.

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After fighting with the pins, I was frustrated to have to fight to get the stock arms off of the mounting bracket, but I had to - and I did. It is now ready for mounting on my blaster, but my blaster is not ready for it to be mounted. There is still a LOT of work (fabrication, really) to be done before I get to that point.

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Took some 1200 grit sandpaper to the scope for some initial weathering. For the most part, I like the effect, but I know that there is too much resin or primer (white spots) showing in some of the weathering spots so I'll figure out drybrushing later on and bring some brass back into the weathering.

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Here, you can see that the bottom of the three is a bit white, as opposed to yellow looking.

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I think the front looks pretty decent overall.

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Right side, with another large white spot towards the front of the scope.

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Back of the scope. I do feel that it needs some more brass...

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SO that's it for the first update.

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Next comes the FUN one!! :D

Posted

So since day #2 maybe... sometime very early in my build any way, I've made it a point that I don't really have much in the way of power tools.

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When I decided that I did want to put the real folding stock on my Doopy, I thought very hard about how I wanted to mount it to the build. Before I ordered it, I talked to one of my buddies at work, whom I had been told has a fantastic workshop in his garage, and asked him if he'd be able to help me out with a bit of metal fabrication. He said that he really does a lot of wood working, but he'd be more than willing to give it a try with me.

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So today, I went over to his house and here is what happened next:

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Did I say workshop? This place is almost the perfect "mancave" he had one of the hockey games on television, he's got a computer running Netflix and gaming to the television, game systems, audio setup through that same computer (which runs to multiple screens) and oh.. yeah, look at the workshop!!! Behind me, was a band saw, a jigsaw, and a belt sander besides what can be seen in the picture. Anyway, now that there are power tools available - it's time to make some magic!!!

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We started by measuring the width of the arms on the mounting bracket from the original stock.

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We cut off the end of a 5/16" steel rod that I picked up at Lowe's for about $5, because the last 1/2" or so was a little warped.

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Next, we transferred the mounting bracket measurement to the steel rod.

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Took the end to the bench grinder to square the end a bit, before cutting checking the measurement and cutting it to the proper length.

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Next stop - the drill press - to drill a 9/16" deep channel that was 7/32" wide in each end of the metal rod.

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Channel being drilled on one end.

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We hit each end with the bench grinder, to create a flat spot where we'd be able to drill the retaining pin holes through. Here, the locations are marked for drilling.

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One of the 7/32" channels.

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And the other one...

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The mounting bracket with the rivets test fitted into the channels.

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Test fitting the bracket with the stock.

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Here, Jason is drilling one of the pin holes through the bracket.

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Here, I'm about to drill the 5/16" channel in the stock mounting bracket on the Doopy. He wanted nothing to do with this particular part. LoL

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Drilled cleanly through! The hole DID intrude into the chamber. That means that I'm going to have to grind out a hollow in the bracket in order to allow my bolt to slide back and forth. That will be happening later though.

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Here, you can see what I was just talking about - the channel definitely cut into the chamber, ever so slightly.

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After a quick trip to the bench grinder's steel brush, the bracket is test-fitted into the Doopy.

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Looks good to me!

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Using the calipers to measure the distance between the centers of the pin holes.

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Using the same caliper measurement to mark the locations for drilling the pin holes in the bracket on the Doopy.

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Pin drilling holes marked on the E-11.

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So, at this point in time, I've returned to my house. Here, I have the stock, the rivets, the original pins, and two brads - which will replace the original pins in my build.

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Test fitting it after drilling the holes for the pins - without the stock.

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Both rivet pins installed.

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The stock arms are clearly going to require some modification for this to work.

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I missed a picture of it somehow, but the stock was taken to the Dremel where a cutting wheel was used to "shave" the stock arms to the appropriate width, each.

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Here, it is mocked-up for a test-fit!

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Clearly, the arms fit just fine now.

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Stock fully extended.

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The hole for the stock latch is not wide enough, and does not extend close enough to the barrel tip for the latch to work properly. Time to take out the rotary tool and make it work!

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After grinding it out, the latch works. Here is the right side.

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Here's the left side!

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Here's a look at the work I had to do in order to allow the folding stock latch to catch and hold onto the barrel.

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So there you have it! My folding stock will work just wonderfully on the Doopydoos Resin kit.

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One more batch of pictures coming your way momentarily!!

Posted

I personally gave up on sanding for weathering for that very reason. Way too many white spots kept appearing. I've noticed that if you attempt the dry brushing on flat areas you have to be careful of not ending up with it looking out right painted (some of my rust spots on my grip just look painted on to me). I'm probably going to need to experiment with diffrent thickness and coarseness of brush to see what gives me the best effect.

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This was the YouTube video I used to get me started if your interested:

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Keep it up brother! I can only image how hard getting that stock apart was...

Posted

Since I mentioned that I was going to learn how to dry brush some weathering... I'll show you what happened with that, too.

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Here it is:

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I took some Testor's Brass, and did the touching up (dry-brushing) on the scope weathering. This is the first of a few updated weathering pics for you to take a look at, and critique/comment on.

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Front, right side of the scope.

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Right side.

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Front of it.

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Back-left of the scope.

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And another look at the left side - you should be able to see that mold-flaw, turned to weathering on the front foot in this picture.

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That's that. Quite a bit of work done today. I'm going to hit the blaster with another coat of flat black before I begin masking it for the texture painting sometime during the next week or so.

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As always, let me know what you think, and what you've got to say. Thank you for checking it out!

Posted

I personally gave up on sanding for weathering for that very reason. Way too many white spots kept appearing. I've noticed that if you attempt the dry brushing on flat areas you have to be careful of not ending up with it looking out right painted (some of my rust spots on my grip just look painted on to me). I'm probably going to need to experiment with diffrent thickness and coarseness of brush to see what gives me the best effect.

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This was the YouTube video I used to get me started if your interested:

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Keep it up brother! I can only image how hard getting that stock apart was...

Thanks, Brian! That video was probably the best one that I've seen on the subject. I think I figured it out alright even if some of mine was still a little bit too wet when I did it. I think it turned out pretty decent anyway. LoL

Posted

Ahh, you sneeked a metal fab post in while I was typing. The dry brushing looks excellent Tim! It's amazing how those little touches with paint brings a sense of reality to the resin.

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...and about your metal fabrication project... I am humbled and inspired by your work. You might be new to this to but your attention to detail is placing you up with the masters.

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Thank you for keeping up with postings on this thread. I can only imagine that I'm going to use it as reference for years to come.

Posted

Folding stock turned out a treat Tim. Well done! A different take on Steve's installation. More options for me to consider :)

Posted

That's a nice setup your coworker Jason has!Ā  What's a workshop if you can't watch TV, use the computer, play games and listen to music?Ā  I keep telling my wife I need a urinal in the shop, and then I would never have to come into the house!!!

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It's a little late now, but youĀ DO have another option.Ā  I hope you kept the original folding stock mount...Ā  You can heat it up and removed the mount.Ā  About 1300 degrees, or a dull red and the hacked up metal part will just fall off (make sure it doesn't land on carpet or a anti-fatigue mat and don't ask me how I know that).Ā  Then, either drill a hole for the locating pin or file it off.Ā  Epoxy it onto your blaster and you're done.

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Here's a picture of when I removed mine:

9F51E1FA-7383-412F-AB0A-096B2ECADBA2_zps

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I used an oxy/acetylene torch, but you could do the same thing with a propane torch - it'll just take a little longer.Ā  Maybe for the next build?

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As always, beautiful work and quite inspiring!Ā  Now, I'm going to watch the video Brian posted and take notes...

Posted (edited)

LoL Aaron... For me that option may as well read "You DO have another option. You could burn down the neighborhood."

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I've got quite an impressive burn on two fingers right now from my technique. When I was bench grinding the flat spots on the ends for the pin holes to be drilled, I took the mount and immediately after finishing flattening one side, just flipped it over and went to put the other side on the grinder. Of course, I picked it up by the very hot spot that I had just ground flat.

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I don't need 1,000+ degrees of anything. LoL

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Interesting - and very cool - option though! :D

Edited by Dark CMF
Posted

LoL Aaron... For me that option may as well read "You DO have another option. You could burn down the neighborhood."

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Tim... you actually made me laugh out loud!!!

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Of course, I picked it up by the very hot spot that I had just ground flat.

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Oh, the stories I could tell...like the scene with Captain Quint and Hooper in Jaws.Ā  To this day, I've got a 9mm bullet in my right lung from a gun malfunction at the firing range with a State Trooper buddy of mine (the law enforcement kind of trooper).Ā  Sorry to hear about the burn - those leave a lasting impression and I bet you won't do that again anytime soon.Ā  I find I make less mistakes these days, but only because I've learned the hard way.

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One more thing - my folding stock wanted to "bind or grab" while flipping back and forth.Ā  I drilled out the holes in the arms with the next biggest drill bit (if I remember correctly, Steve had this problem too).Ā  I think the pins were 19/64", so I drilled out the arm holes to 5/16".Ā  Now, the folding stock swings very easily with no binding.

Posted (edited)

Tim back in my blacksmithing class years ago I had been working on two pieces that looked almost exactly the same. I had set one down to let it cool while I worked on the other. I then set that one down beside the first. Turns out steel stops glowing at 900Ć¢ā€žā€°. I reached down to grab the first one but picked up the second one instead. I had a blister that ran from the second joint of my thumb around to the first joint of my index finger. Big leson learned!

If you do anymore grinding work put a small metal bowl of water by the grinding wheel and just dip the metal in it every so often to quench the heat. Not only will you save your fingers but it keeps it from getting too hot and you will actually avoid inadvertently softening the steel. That's particularly important when your grinding the edge on a chisel or something but it's just a good habit to get into.

Edited by TrainWreck
Posted

Thanks! We did place a bowl of water around for that reason after I did it, because Jason had already done it, too. LoL

Posted

Tim... you actually made me laugh out loud!!!

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One more thing - my folding stock wanted to "bind or grab" while flipping back and forth.Ā  I drilled out the holes in the arms with the next biggest drill bit (if I remember correctly, Steve had this problem too).Ā  I think the pins were 19/64", so I drilled out the arm holes to 5/16".Ā  Now, the folding stock swings very easily with no binding.

Glad you got a laugh out of that. LoL.

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I actually drilled everything at 5/16" as that was the size of the steel rod - I knew it was correct because I took the folding stock into Lowe's with me to buy it. I think that people thought I may have been preparing to assemble an SMG in the store when I took out and opened the folding stock, because I was getting some tense looks. Anyway, as I was saying, I drilled the Doopy bracket at 5/16" and had no issues with fit whatsoever. I wonder if there were just discrepancies in some of the stocks, as 19/64" is not at all that far from 5/16". Interesting thing to note though. :/

Posted (edited)

My last bit of work from last night did not get uploaded, because I did it on the spur of the moment after I finished updating the thread so here are the final four pictures from yesterday's work:

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Since I had pretty much completed the scope's appearance, I decided to go ahead and do so - with the white crayon. May it finally feel that it has a purpose in the world! :D

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All of the lettering has been colored in.

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After wiping off the excess with the orange towel, I feel that it needs another pass with the crayon...

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And here is the final appearance of the lettering on the scope!

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Comments are welcomed as always - thanks for checking it out!

Edited by Dark CMF
Posted

Hey Tim

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Very, very good looking! I like the fact you didn't completely fill the letters - that makes it look a bit used and old. Perfect :duim:

Posted

Nice work on that stock, son! Outstanding!

Thank you, good man!!

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Oh I hadn't seen that crayon trick. But it gives me ideas... I love the way your scope is turning out.

I Still have one more "major" project to accomplish/figure out for the scope but if I don't get to that, it could be completed today, and aside from that project nagging in the back of my mind, I'd be happy with it. But man, that nagging would just make me crazy... LoL. I guess I better figure out that project :)
Posted

Dude, that scope is lookin' dope! Mine gets shipped tomorrow. I love how the letters came out, and like T Jay said glad you didn't fill them in all the way.

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More pressing question: did you steal the crayon from the kid, or did you have to buy a whole box just for the white? Hah! :D

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(I only laugh because I will have to buy a pack since I have no kids!)

Posted

LoL... We have several boxes of crayons in the house - even though Kellan is not old enough for them yet.

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